2005 Cadillac XLR Owners Manual

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quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 6-85. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged. 6-14 (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. 6-15 When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL NOW message in the DIC will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. 6-16 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System and the Oil Life Indicator The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL NOW message in the DIC being turned on, reset the system. After the oil has been changed, the CHANGE OIL NOW message and the oil life indicator must be reset. To reset the message use the following procedure: 1. Press the up or down arrow to scroll the DIC to show OIL LIFE. 2. Once the XXX% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is highlighted, press and hold the RESET button until the percentage shows 100%. If the percentage does not return to 100% or if the CHANGE OIL NOW message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. 6-17 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlters. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlters at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filters To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlters, remove the ﬁlters from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlters to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlters remain caked with dirt, new ﬁlters are required. 6-18 To inspect or replace the ﬁlters, do the following: 1. Flip the clasps on the top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover forward to unlatch the cover. 2. Lift the front of the cover at an angle and remove. This is necessary due to the four tabs located on the rear of the cover. 3. Remove the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter element and any loose debris that may be found in the air cleaner base. 4. Inspect or replace the ﬁlter. 5. Repeat the procedure for the second air cleaner/ﬁlter. Follow these steps to reinstall the covers to the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housings: 1. Align the four tabs located on the back of the cover with the three slots on the back of the housing. 2. Push the cover slightly down and towards the engine to engage the tabs in the slots and align the two wing screws. 3. Engage and tighten the two clasps on the top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 6-19 Automatic Transmission Fluid How to Check It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. There is a special procedure for checking and changing the transmission ﬂuid. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at your dealer service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 8-12. Notice: Use of automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (80 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) High performance operation. If you do not use your vehicle under one of these conditions, change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-4 for the proper service intervals for the transmission ﬂuid and ﬁlter. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 6-23. 6-20 (cid:127) (cid:127) A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Giving freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. If you use the proper coolant, you do not 6-21 (cid:127) Checking Coolant The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. For more information on location, see Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, located on the side of the surge tank that faces the front. If the LOW COOLANT message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64 for more information. 6-22 Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, press down and turn it clockwise (right) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a COOLANT OVER TEMP message or an ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64. You will also hear a chime. There is also an engine coolant temperature gage on the instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-54. 6-23 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If your engine catches ﬁre because you keep Notice: driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. 6-24 (cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting and fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists and the DIC message ENGINE HOT, STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. Driving extended miles (km) in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 6-13. 6-25 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. A low coolant level should be indicated by a LOW COOLANT message on the Driver Information Center (DIC). If it is, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system. A. Electric Engine Cooling Fan B. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap 6-26 {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 6-27 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 6-20 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 6-28 In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left). If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the cap and remove it. 6-29 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture until the level inside the surge tank stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the front of the surge tank. 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level stabilizes at the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. 6-30 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the cap is fully installed. If the LOW COOLANT message does not appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) after two minutes, the coolant is at the proper ﬁll level. If a LOW COOLANT message does appear, repeat Steps 1 through 3 then reinstall the pressure cap, or see your dealer. Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 6-31 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The LOW WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the ﬂuid is low. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 6-32 (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-4. 6-33 Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 6-70. Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap. Look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above the MIN mark on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Refer to Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. 6-34 (cid:127) Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment As you make brake stops, your disc brakes automatically adjust for wear. 6-35 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. For battery replacement, see your dealer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service and Owner Publications in Service Publications Ordering Information on page 8-12. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 6-37 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. You must close all doors and the trunk before reconnecting the battery. After reconnecting the battery, you must press the unlock button on the keyless access transmitter. Failure to follow this procedure may result in the alarm sounding. Pressing unlock on the keyless access transmitter would stop the alarm. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-78. 6-36 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. If you try to start your vehicle by pushing Notice: or pulling it, you could damage your vehicle. Do not push or pull your vehicle to start it; instead, use the jump starting procedure in this manual to start your vehicle when the battery has run down. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 6-37 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 6-38 {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 6-39 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 6-40 If the jumper cables are removed in the Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 6-41 What to Use To add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90 Synthetic Gear Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261) or equivalent meeting GM Speciﬁcation 9986115. To completely reﬁll after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Differential Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. 1052358) or equivalent. Then ﬁll to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. 6-42 If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inﬂated. (cid:127) Start the vehicle and rock it to level the suspension. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly. The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps. Headlamp Vertical Aiming Notice: Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim ﬁrst will result in an incorrect headlamp aim. 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamps. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each low beam lamp. Record this distance. 3. At the wall or other ﬂat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle. If you believe your headlamps need vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx ® socket or T15 Torx screwdriver. 6-43 (cid:127) (cid:127) Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp. Bulb Replacement It is recommended that all bulbs be replaced by your dealer. 6-44 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-4. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 7-13. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Place the vehicle in accessory mode and turn the wipers on. Position the wipers on the windshield in the mid-wipe position. Then with a door open, turn the vehicle off. 2. Tip the blade up and push down on the tab to release the wiper blade assembly. 3. To install, align the wiper blade with the loop on the wiper blade assembly, and push up to snap it into place. 6-45 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual. 6-46 {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 6-53. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The example below shows a typical passenger (p-metric) tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6-59. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 6-47 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger (p-metric) vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. 6-48 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 6-53. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. 6-49 Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 6-53 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. 6-50 Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6-58. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 6-59. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. 6-51 Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you’ve driven on the tire in a deﬂated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a run-ﬂat tire, check with an authorized run-ﬂat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-ﬂat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-ﬂat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-ﬂat servicing facility, call Roadside Assistance. For phone numbers and Roadside Service details see Roadside Service on page 8-6. Run-Flat Tires Your vehicle, when new, had run-ﬂat tires. There’s no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Run-ﬂat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. If a tire goes ﬂat, you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. If you drive on a deﬂated run-ﬂat tire for 50 miles (80 km) or less and at speeds of 55 mph (90 km/h) or less, there is a good chance that the tire can be repaired. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 125 miles (201 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h), but the tire would then have to be replaced. When a tire is ﬁlled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion when driving on a deﬂated tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. 6-52 {CAUTION: Run-ﬂat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-ﬂat tire. Let only an authorized run-ﬂat service center repair, replace, dismount and mount run-ﬂat tires. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading The valve stems on your run-ﬂat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 6-55. These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your run-ﬂat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Don’t use liquid sealants in your run-ﬂat tires. (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 6-53 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Your vehicle has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) that sends tire pressure information to the Driver Information Center (DIC). Using the DIC control buttons, the driver is able to check tire pressure levels in all four road tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 6-55 and DIC Controls and Displays on page 3-61 for additional information. A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are underinﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). 6-54 Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) System on your vehicle, uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. Sensors, mounted on each tire and wheel assembly transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPM sensors transmit tire pressure readings once every 60 seconds while the vehicle is being driven and once every 60 minutes when the vehicle is stationary for more than 15 minutes. Using the Driver Information Center (DIC), tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. The TPM system also uses the DIC to warn the driver when air pressure, in one or more tires, falls below 25 psi (172 kPa) or is above 42 psi (290 kPa). For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Controls and Displays on page 3-61 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64. A low tire warning light also appears on the instrument panel cluster when a low tire condition exists. The DIC message, CHECK TIRE PRESSURE and the low tire pressure warning light will be shown each time the engine is started and stay on until the low tire condition is corrected. When the tire pressure monitoring system warning light is lit, one or more of your tires is signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated. You should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inﬂate them to the proper pressure as indicated on the vehicle’s tire information placard. Driving on a signiﬁcantly under-inﬂated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inﬂation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Each tire, including the spare, should be checked monthly when cold and set to the recommended inﬂation pressure as speciﬁed in the vehicle placard and owner’s manual. The Tire and Loading Information Label (tire information placard) is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, below the door latch. This label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the correct inﬂation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. Your vehicle’s TPM system can alert you about a low or high tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 6-57 6-55 Each TPM sensor has a unique identiﬁcation code that is matched to one of the four tire positions on your vehicle. The tire and wheel assembly positions are, left front (LF); right front (RF); right rear (RR) and left rear (LR). Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more TPM sensors, the identiﬁcation codes will need to be matched to the new tire and wheel position. The TPM matching process is performed in a speciﬁc sequence and time limit. A special tool is also required. See your dealer for service. The SVC TIRE MONITOR message is displayed when the TPM system is malfunctioning. For example, one or more TPM sensors may be inoperable or missing. See your dealer for service. The TPM system operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry and Science Canada. This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules and with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) This device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device. Changes or modiﬁcations to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment. 6-56 Tire Inspection and Rotation Your vehicle’s tires should be inspected regularly for wear. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 6-58 and Wheel Replacement on page 6-61 for additional information. Vehicles equipped with the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system will need to have the sensors reset after a tire rotation is performed. A special tool is needed to reset the sensor identiﬁcation codes. See your dealer for service. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See Wheel Replacement on page 6-61 and “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 6-85. When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the tire and loading information label, see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 6-53 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. 6-57 When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 6-58 Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire and Loading Information label. For information about this label and where to ﬁnd it, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 5-30. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). Whenever you replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. If you replace your vehicle’s tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, the tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning. Non-TPC Spec tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec numbered tires. (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. 6-59 Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. 6-60 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. If you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis. 6-61 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash. 6-62 Used Replacement Wheels Tire Chains {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the rear tires. 6-63 Lifting Your Vehicle {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine. To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels. {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to place the jack in the proper location before raising the vehicle. 6-64 Lifting From the Front If you ever use a jack to lift your vehicle, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle. Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: (cid:127) Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. (cid:127) Make sure the jack you’re using spans at least two crossmember ribs. Lift only in the areas shown in the following pictures. For additional information, see your dealer and the Cadillac XLR service manual. The front lifting points can be accessed from either side of your vehicle, behind the front tires. 6-65 (cid:127) 1. Locate the front lifting points (A), according to the illustration shown. 3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (B). 2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. 6-66 Lifting From the Rear The rear lifting points can be accessed from the rear of the vehicle, on either the driver’s or passenger’s side. 1. Locate the rear lifting points (A), according to the illustration shown. 2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack and the vehicle. 6-67 If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. See Tires on page 6-46 for additional information. Your vehicle, when new, had run-ﬂat tires. This type of tire can operate effectively with no air pressure, so you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change a ﬂat tire. You can just keep on driving. The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the run-ﬂat tire will not have to be replaced. Run-ﬂat tires perform so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure. See Run-Flat Tires on page 6-52 and Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 6-55. 3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack spans at least two of the crossmember ribs (B). For more information, see Doing Your Own Service Work on page 6-4. 6-68 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: When the TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG message is displayed on the Driver Information Center, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Don’t drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG message is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can. If the TPM system detects a tire pressure below 5 psi (34 kPa), the TIRE FLAT MAX SPD 55, REDUCED HNDLG warning message is displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Controls and Displays on page 3-61 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-64 for information and details about the DIC operation and displays. Special tools and procedures are required to service a run-ﬂat tire. If these special tools and procedures aren’t used you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your run-ﬂat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Don’t use liquid sealants in your run-ﬂat tires. To order a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 8-12. If a tire goes ﬂat, the stability control system will turn on automatically even if it was disabled by the driver. When a ﬂat tire condition exists the StabiliTrak® system cannot be turned off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 5-10. 6-69 Appearance Care Cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Other cleaning products can burst into ﬂames if a match is struck near them or if they get on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if their fumes are inhaled in an enclosed space. When anything from a container is used to clean the vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows of the vehicle when cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean the vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner (cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage the vehicle, too. Do not use any of these products unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage the vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol Laundry Soap (cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic, and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can before they set. (cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. To avoid forming a ring on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. 6-70 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Most stains can be removed with club soda water. To clean, use the following instructions: 1. For liquids: blot with a clean, soft, white cloth. For solids: remove as much as possible and then vacuum or brush. 2. Apply club soda water to a clean, soft, white cloth. Do not over-saturate; the cloth should not drip water. 3. Clean the entire area. Avoid getting the fabric too wet. 4. Start cleaning from the seams into the stain to avoid a ring effect. 5. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 6. When the stain is removed, blot the cleaned area with another dry, clean, soft, white cloth. Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. First, try the cleaner on an area of the fabric that is not easily seen to make sure the cleaner does not affect the color of the fabric. 2. For liquids: blot with a clean, soft, white cloth. For solids: remove as much as possible and then vacuum or brush. 3. Spray a small amount of the cleaner onto a clean soft, white, cloth. Do not apply spray directly to the fabric. 4. Start cleaning from the seams into the stain to avoid a ring effect. 5. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 6. When the stain is removed, blot the cleaned area with another dry, clean, soft, white cloth. 7. If the cleaner leaves a ring effect, follow up with the club soda water instructions given earlier in this section. Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, black coffee, egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine, and blood can be removed using the club soda water instructions given earlier in this section. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water and baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water. Let dry. Stains caused by oil and grease can be cleaned with an approved GM cleaner and a clean, white cloth. 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely. 3. If a stain remains, follow the “Using Cleaner on Fabric” instructions described earlier. 6-71 Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. (cid:127) Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. This may have to be done more than once. Things like tar, asphalt, and shoe polish will stain if they are not removed quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product. Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. (cid:127) Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish, or shoe polish on leather. (cid:127) Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the ﬁnish, it can harm the leather. Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reﬂections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface ﬁnish. Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. 6-72 (cid:127) (cid:127) Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker will not be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap. Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust ﬁlms on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 6-78. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry. {CAUTION: Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-11. 6-73 Washing Your Vehicle The paint ﬁnish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s ﬁnish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 6-78. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be ﬂushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the ﬁnish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 6-74. Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of the vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint ﬁnish. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 6-78. The vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint ﬁnish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish. 6-74 Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint ﬁnish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle’s ﬁnish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather, and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. To help keep the paint ﬁnish looking new, keep the vehicle in a garage or covered whenever possible. Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap, or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a glass cleaning liquid or powder and water solution. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when it is rinsed with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. 6-75 If you use strong soaps, chemicals, Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels

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2005 Cadillac XLR Owners Manual