2002 Cadillac Deville Owners Manual

negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (-) jump starting terminal.

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The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. A second remote positive (+) terminal is located on the rear underseat fuse block. Lift the red plastic cap to access the terminal.

The remote negative (-) terminal is located near the power steering fluid reservoir. It is marked “GND (-).” See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger’s seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose.

CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to the negative (-) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the remote positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the

black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end of the cable touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

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9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (-) terminal marked GND (-)

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal period. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Jumper Cable Removal

A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal (GND)

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable the vehicle

that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to

its original position.

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Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index. Engine Overheating You will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT, IDLE ENGINE message or an ENGINE OVERHEATED, STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). You will also hear a chime. There is also an engine temperature warning light and/or gage on the instrument panel cluster. See “Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light” or “Engine Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the message ENGINE OVERHEATED, STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

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NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See “Low Coolant Message” in the Index. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: D Climb a long hill on a hot day. D Stop after high-speed driving. D Idle for long periods in traffic. D Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Set the temperature control to the highest heat setting

and open the windows, as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (B) or THIRD (3).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

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A low coolant level should be indicated by a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center. If it is, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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CAUTION: (Continued)

Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level isn’t at the proper level (2.5 inches (6.4 cm) below the base of the filler neck), add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed.

CAUTION: (Continued)

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CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

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1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the cap, but now push down as

you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the base of the filler neck.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches about 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) below the base of the filler neck.

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If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on

the pressure cap lines up like this.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message does not appear on the Driver Information Center, coolant is at the proper fill level. If a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message does appear, repeat Steps 1 to 3 and reinstall the pressure cap or see your dealer.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 2. Set the parking brake firmly. 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. Instructions for changing your tires are on the inside of the tire cover located in your trunk. To gain access to the instructions, spare tire and jacking equipment, do the following:

1. Press the area at the front of the handle located on the cover so that the back edge raises.

2. Grab the handle and

remove the cover.

3. Unscrew the wing nuts to remove the container that

holds the wrench and jack.

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4. Remove the wheel wrench, jack and compact spare tire from the trunk. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare tire.

Removing the Wheel Cover

Models with Center Wheel Cover

For models having aluminum wheels with a center wheel cover, use the flat end of the wheel wrench to gently pry the wheel covers off. Be careful not to scratch the aluminum wheel edge and don’t try to remove it with your hands. For models having wheel nuts exposed, use the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut covers.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and the wheel wrench (B).

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don’t remove them yet.

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CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

3. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the

jack lift head until the jack fits under the vehicle.

4. Raise the jack until the metal flange fits firmly into

the channel of the jack head.

5. Put the compact spare tire near you.

2. Find the jacking location from the diagrams above and corresponding hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The front location is 8.5 inches (21 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well, and the rear location is 3.5 inches (8.5 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well. The notches may also be labeled “JACK” with an arrow pointing to the jacking location on the vehicle.

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6. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise.

Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.

7. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

8. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

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CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

9. Place the compact

spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.

10. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

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11. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

12. Tighten the wheel

nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

If your vehicle is equipped with wheel nut covers, screw them on with your fingers, then tighten one-quarter turn with the wheel wrench.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N·m).

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

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13. Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover and lug nut caps in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk. For storage, the jack must be raised until the screw end is flush with the edge of the jack.

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Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See the storage instructions label for information on how to properly position and store the compact spare tire.

A. Wrench B. Jack C. Jack Container

D. Retainer E. Compact Spare

Tire Cover

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

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If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

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Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,

experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. However, for best performance and for trailer towing, you may wish to use middle grade or premium unleaded gasoline. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine.

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Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Canada Only

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Additives Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

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Filling Your Tank

CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

The fuel door release button is located to the left of the steering wheel next to the exterior lamp control.

The button only works when the vehicle is in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N), when the key is in the ignition and the VALET lockout button is in OFF.

An alternate fuel door release is located inside of the trunk on the driver’s side. Pull it to release the fuel door.

While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether from the hook on the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

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The CHECK GAS CAP message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on if the fuel cap is not properly reinstalled.

NOTICE:

If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

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Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Checking Things Under the Hood

CAUTION:

CAUTION:

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into

approved containers.

D Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Hood Release To lift the hood, use the following steps:

1. Pull the lever inside the

vehicle to open the hood. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

With Night Vision

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Without Night Vision

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and find the

secondary hood release lever. The lever is located under the front edge of the grille on vehicles with Night Vision and under the bottom edge of the grille on vehicles without Night Vision. Move the release lever and raise the hood.

Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, you’ll see:

A. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

B. Underhood Fuse Block C. Engine Coolant Surge Tank

and Pressure Cap

D. Power Steering Fluid E. Engine Oil Fill Cap F. Engine Oil Dipstick

G. Brake Master Cylinder H. Transaxle Fluid Cap and Dipstick I. Engine Air Cleaner Filter

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Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Underhood Lamp The underhood lamp will come on when the hood is opened and the parking lamps are turned on. Engine Oil

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick is located behind the radiator on the driver’s side of the vehicle. The handle is a yellow loop that says ENGINE OIL on it. For more information on location, see “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.

If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “Check Message, Oil Level” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

The engine oil fill cap is located behind the radiator on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. For more information on location, see “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.

Turn the cap counterclockwise to remove it. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going to be 0_F (-18_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life Systemt) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

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What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life Systemt calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) being turned on, reset the system. After the oil has been changed, the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message must be reset. To reset the message, do the following: 1. Press the INFO button on the Driver Information

Center (DIC) until ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed.

2. Press and hold the RESET button until

100% ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed. This resets the oil life indicator.

The percentage of oil life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO button until ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed on the DIC. For more information on the oil life indicator, see “Oil Life Indicator” in the Index.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/filter is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle. For more information on location, see “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. Be sure the engine has cooled before following these steps to replace the engine air cleaner/filter:

2. Lift up the outboard side of the cover at an angle

while pulling toward you. This is necessary due to the three tabs located on the rear of the cover.

1. Loosen and remove both wing screws on the top of

the engine air cleaner/filter cover.

3. Remove the engine air cleaner/filter element and any

loose debris that may be found lying in the air cleaner base.

4. Replace the air filter element.

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Follow these steps to reinstall the cover to the engine air cleaner/filter housing: 1. Align the three tabs located on the back of the cover

with the three slots on the back of the housing. 2. Push the cover slightly down and towards the

engine to engage the tabs in the slots and align the two wing screws.

3. Engage and tighten the two wing screws on the top

of the engine air cleaner/filter housing cover.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

Passenger Compartment Air Filter The passenger compartment air filter traps most of the pollen from the air entering your vehicle. Like your vehicle’s air cleaner filter, it may need to be changed periodically. For how often to change the passenger compartment air filter, see “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index.

1. To access the passenger compartment air filter, use a

tool to gently pry the cover up. (If your vehicle has tabs that allow you to unlatch the cover with your fingers, you will not need a tool for this step.)

The access panel for the passenger compartment air filter is located under the hood near the windshield, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

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2. Then, insert a tool behind the push pin located on the inboard side of the air filter compartment to carefully pry the pin out.

3. To remove the air filter, insert a tool between the air filter and the compartment wall on the outboard side of the vehicle. Then, push in to flatten the pin holding the air filter in place. Gently remove the air filter and any loose debris that may be inside the air filter compartment.

4. Insert the new air filter by pushing until you hear a

click. Then, reinstall the push pin and snap the cover into place.

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.

D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. D Use such as limousine service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require change until the message CHANGE TRANS FLUID appears on the Driver Information Center. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle fluid cap is located next to the radiator hose and below the engine air cleaner/filter assembly on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

1. After removing the engine air cleaner/filter assembly

to reach the transaxle fluid cap, turn the cap counterclockwise to remove. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push

the dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter assembly.

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3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push

the dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise.

How to Reset the Transaxle Fluid Indicator After the transaxle fluid has been changed, the transaxle fluid change indicator must be reset. To reset the indicator, do the following: 1. Press the INFO button on the Driver

Information Center (DIC) until TRANS FLUID LIFE is displayed.

2. Press and hold the RESET button until 100% is

displayed. This resets the transaxle fluid change indicator.

The percentage of transaxle fluid life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO on the DIC until the TRANS FLUID LIFE message appears.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights gages lights and gages work

as they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

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Checking Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. For more information on location, see “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index.

CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, located on the side of the surge tank that faces the engine.

If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant. For more information, see “Check Message, Coolant Level” in the Index.

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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

Surge Tank Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure the arrow lines up with the tube.

The surge tank cap is a 18 psi (124 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrow on the cap lines up with the overflow hose. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.

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Power Steering Fluid

The power steering fluid reservoir is located between the fuse block relay center and the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid The CHECK WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid is low.

The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located in front of the underhood fuse block on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up.

The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If the ignition is in ON and the brake fluid is low, the CHECK BRAKE FLUID message will be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery.

WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.

CAUTION:

A battery that isn’t properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

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Headlamps

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

1. To access the

headlamps, remove all of the push-pins that hold the filler panel cover in place.

2. Do this by pressing in the center of each pin and then pulling up on the outer circle to remove the pin.

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3. Remove the two bolts at the top of the

headlamp assembly.

4. Loosen the bolt at the bottom of the

headlamp assembly.

5. Use a tool to help pry the headlamp assembly away

from the vehicle.

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7. Remove the bulb socket

dust cover.

6. Firmly grasp the outboard side of the headlamp

assembly with both hands and pull hard enough so that the whole assembly separates from the vehicle.

8. Turn the headlamp

housing socket counterclockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing.

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9. Pull the old bulb out of

the socket.

10. Install the new bulb into the socket. Make sure that

the bulb is locked in firmly.

11. Reinstall the headlamp housing socket into the

headlamp assembly.

12. Reinstall the headlamp assembly by reversing

Steps 2 through 6.

To reinstall the filler panel, do the following: 1. Place the filler panel in the correct location. 2. Reset each push-pin by holding each by the outer circle while pushing up on the pin assembly from below. The center portion of the push-pin should now be above the outer circle.

3. After placing each push-pin into the opening, press down on the outer circle until it is seated against the surface of the filler panel.

4. Lock each push-pin in place by pressing the center of each down until it is level with the outer circle. Use care not to press down so far that the push-pin releases again.

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If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.

NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

Headlamp Aiming

Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.

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The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps

are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to

the wall or other flat surface.

D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

D The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full

tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

D Tires should be properly inflated. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly. The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.

If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 TorxR socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.

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Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.

Headlamp Vertical Aiming

NOTICE:

Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim.

1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamps.

Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.

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2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each lamp; if left low beam, subtract two inches. Record this distance.

3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

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NOTICE:

Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

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5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the

headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.

6. Repeat Steps 4

and 5 for the opposite headlamp.

Front Cornering Lamps 1. Follow Steps 1 through 6 in “Headlamps”

described previously.

2. Disconnect the cornering lamp bulb by pulling the

bulb out of the socket. Do not twist or turn the bulb.

3. Replace cornering lamp bulb by pushing the new

bulb directly into the socket.

4. Reinstall the cornering lamp housing socket into the

headlamp assembly.

5. Reverse Steps 1 through 6 in “Headlamps”

described previously.

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Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. The turn signal lamps are located beside the

headlamp bulbs. To access, lift off the bulb socket dust cover. See Steps 1 through 6 under “Headlamps” described previously.

2. Press the tab down and turn the housing

socket clockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing.

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3. Remove the turn signal lamp housing socket and

replace the bulb.

4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY and turn the

wipers on. Position the wipers on the windshield in the “mid” wipe position. Then with a door open, turn the ignition to OFF.

2. Tip the blade up almost to a “T” position and push

down on the tab to release the wiper blade assembly.

3. To install, align the wiper blade with the loop on the wiper blade assembly, and push up to snap it into place.

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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Cadillac Warranty booklet for details.

CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See “Inflation -- Tire Pressure” in this section for inflation pressure adjustment for higher speed driving.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is located on the rear edge of the driver’s side rear door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). If you’ll be driving at high speeds (e.g., speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher), where it is legal, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or to 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example below. When you end this high-speed driving, return to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Example: You’ll find maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs.) @ 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards

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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.