2006 Buick Rendezvous Owners Manual

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Indicator Lamp on page 3-46. Your vehicle may also be equipped with a light that will come on in the message center to let you know your gas cap is open. See Check Gas Cap Message on page 3-56 for more information. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-46. 5-8 Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 1. Pull the hood release handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 2. At the front of the vehicle, pull up on the center of the hood, and push the secondary hood release to the right. 3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position. Before closing the hood, be sure all ﬁller caps are on properly. Then, pull the hood down to close. 5-9 Engine Compartment Overview When you lift the hood of the 3.5L V6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-10 A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-103. B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-33. D. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-23. E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-32. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-13. G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-13. H. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-19. I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-34. J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/ Filter on page 5-18. K. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-26. 5-11 When you lift the hood of the 3.6L V6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-12 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-33. B. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block on page 5-103. C. Battery. See Battery on page 5-37. D. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-38. E. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 5-23. F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-32. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-13. H. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-13. I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-34. J. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 5-19. K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/ Filter on page 5-18. L. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-21. 5-13 When to Add Engine Oil 3.5L V6 Engine 3.6L V6 Engine 5-14 If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-106. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. 5-15 When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come on. See Change Engine Oil Message on page 3-55. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. 5-16 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. If your vehicle does not have the optional Driver Information Center (DIC), do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. 3. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. If your vehicle has the optional DIC, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON, with the engine off. 2. Press the MODE button until the DIC reads OIL LIFE LEFT/HOLD SET TO RESET. 3. Press and hold the SET button until 100% is displayed. You will hear three chimes and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will go off. 4. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. 5-17 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. 5-18 To inspect or replace the air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the two clamps on the duct. 2. Remove the duct. 3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar 3. Unlatch the two hooks on top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 5. Align the tabs located on the bottom of the panel with the slots at the bottom of the housing. 6. Latch the hooks to secure the panel in place. If the panel moves easily, check that the tabs are seated correctly in the slots. 7. Put the duct back on and reinstall the clamps. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. 5-19 Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level To prepare your vehicle, do the following: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place and keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. 5-20 Then, without shutting off the engine, do the following: See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for information on dipstick location. If your vehicle is equipped with a 3.5L V6 engine, the dipstick handle will be a red loop. If your vehicle is equipped with a 3.6L V6 engine, the dipstick handle will have this symbol on it. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the cross-hatched area. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. (cid:127) How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-23. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning messages and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 25,000 miles (41 500 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-21 (cid:127) What Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use an improper coolant mixture, your Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. 5-22 If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. Checking Coolant The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, above the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the full cold mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the full cold mark or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-26. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overﬂow tube on the radiator ﬁller neck. The radiator pressure cap for the 3.5L V6 engine and the 3.6L V6 engine are located in different areas of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for more information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature warning and a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Message on page 3-52 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-46. If your vehicle is equipped with the 3.6L V6 engine, you will also have a reduced engine power message. See Reduced Engine Power Message on page 3-53. 5-23 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. 5-24 (cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. 3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving — AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. 5-25 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 3.6L V6 Engine A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 3.5L V6 Engine A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank 5-26 If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. The coolant level should be at or above the full cold mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-25 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-27 In cold weather, water can freeze and crack Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the full cold mark, start your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at or above the full cold mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-21 for more information. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-28 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a speciﬁc radiator ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 5-29 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Housing Bypass Tube 3. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine, after the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube. 5-30 3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar 4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-21 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine and you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is ﬁlled. 5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar 3.5L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar 9. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the full cold mark. 10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up properly. 5-31 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. When the engine compartment is hot, the level for the 3.5L V6 engine should be at the H (Hot) mark, and the level for the 3.6L V6 engine should be at the MAX (Maximum) mark. When it is cold, the level for the 3.5L V6 engine should be at the C (Cold) mark, and the level for the 3.6L V6 engine should be at the MIN (Minimum) mark. If the ﬂuid is at the ADD mark on the 3.5L V6 engine, you should add ﬂuid. If the level falls below the MIN mark on the 3.6L V6 engine, you should add ﬂuid. What Power Steering Fluid to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 5-32 Windshield Washer Fluid What Washer Fluid to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 5-33 (cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-44. Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 5-34 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-94. 5-35 (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. 5-36 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-38 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-132. 5-37 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. 5-38 If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump starting procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radios and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose. The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-10 for more information on location. If your vehicle has the 3.5L V6 engine, squeeze the tabs and swing the cap out of the way to access the remote positive (+) terminal. 3.5L V6 Engine If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, pull up on the cap to access the remote positive (+) terminal. 3.6L V6 Engine You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 5-39 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-40 If you connect a negative cable to the ECM, Notice: ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-41 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-42 How to Check Lubricant All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. All-wheel-drive vehicles have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-43 Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-44 If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the differential, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-49. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-9 for more information. 4. Unsnap the headlamp assembly by pulling it forward, away from the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the electrical connector by pulling back on the locking tab, located on the electrical connector, to separate the two connectors. 2. Push in on the headlamp panel and lift up the headlamp retaining clip partway, but do not remove. 6. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn clockwise. 3. Remove the wing stud on the upper, outboard side of the lamp assembly. 7. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp housing. 5-45 9. Install the appropriate new bulb into the electrical connector. Push the bulb ﬁrmly enough so that the gray tabs hook over the tab on the bulb. 10. Put the bulb assembly back into the lamp housing and turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise. 11. Align the retaining clips on the back of the headlamp with the rectangular holes in the mounting panel. 12. Push ﬁrmly on both ends of the headlamp to snap it into position. 13. Push the retaining clip down to its original position. 14. Reinstall the wing stud. 8. Unhook the electrical connector by lifting up the gray tabs and separate the connector from the bulb base. 5-46 Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-11 for more information. 2. Remove the two screws on the inboard taillamp panel. 4. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise. 5. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp housing. 6. Unhook the electrical connector by lifting up the tabs and separate the connector from the bulb base. 7. Install the new bulb into the electrical connector. Push the bulb ﬁrmly enough so that the tabs hook over the tab on the bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall. 9. Reinstall the lamp to its pocket by lining up the mounting pin and pushing forward to set the position. 10. Reinstall the screws removed in Step 2. 11. Close the liftgate. 3. Pull the lamp directly rearward from the vehicle. 5-47 Taillamps and Back-Up Lamps This procedure is for the liftgate-mounted taillamps and back-up lamps. To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-11 for more information. 2. Remove the panel inside the liftgate by lifting the tabs and pulling the panel off. 3. Remove the seven wing nuts and the four outboard nuts (two at each end). 4. Gently lower the liftgate. 5. Pull the lamp assembly directly rearward from the vehicle. 5-48 A. Outboard Taillamp B. Center Taillamp C. Inboard Back-Up Lamp 6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn. 7. Pull the bulb assembly out from the lamp housing. 8. Pull the bulb out of the base. 9. Install the new bulb into the electrical connector. Push the bulb ﬁrmly enough so that the tabs hook over the tab on the bulb. 10. Put the bulb assembly back into the lamp housing and turn the bulb socket clockwise one-quarter of a turn. 11. Reinstall the lamp assembly on the liftgate. 12. Gently lift the liftgate. 13. Reinstall the seven wing nuts and the four outboard nuts. 14. Reinstall the panel inside the liftgate by connecting the tabs. 15. Close the liftgate. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp Headlamps High-beam Low-beam Liftgate-Mounted Back-up Lamp Taillamp Rear Outboard Stoplamp/ Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp Sidemarker Lamp 3457K 9005 9006 921 161 3057K 168 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Replacement Keep in mind that your windshield is part of the Head-Up Display (HUD) system. If you ever have to get your windshield replaced, be sure to get one that is designed for HUD or your HUD image may look blurred or out of focus. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. 5-49 To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield. 2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release lever click into place. To replace the rear wiper blade, follow the steps listed above. 5-50 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-51 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-52 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-64. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. 5-53 Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. 5-54 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. 5-55 Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. 5-56 Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-62. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-64. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-57 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-58 Check Tire Pressure System Your vehicle may have a check tire pressure system that can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or ﬂat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will come on the message center if pressure difference, or low pressure, is detected in one tire. In the following conditions, the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message may not come on even if the tire pressure is low, or it may come on when the tire pressure is actually normal: (cid:127) More than one tire is low (cid:127) Only one tire is replaced with a new tire during service The vehicle is moving faster than 70 mph (113 km/h) The system is not yet calibrated The tire treadwear is uneven The compact spare tire is installed Tire chains are being used The vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-45. The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire – but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-51. When the LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET message appears on the Driver Information Center and the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message comes on the message center, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is ﬂat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-69. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-57. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset, or calibrate, the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires and install or remove the compact spare. Do not reset the check tire pressure system without ﬁrst correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high. 5-59 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-62 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-66 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire, If it moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-84. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. To reset the system, do the following: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON. 2. Press the MODE button until the DIC reads LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO RESET. 3. Press and hold the SET button until you hear a chime, and TIRE PRESSURE RESET is displayed. You will hear three chimes, then the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message will go off and the DIC will return to TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL. If the LOW TIRE PRESSURE message comes back on, the check tire pressure system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. The system completes the calibration process during driving. The system learns the pressure at each tire throughout the operating speed range of your vehicle. The system normally takes between 30 and 60 minutes of driving to learn the tire pressures. The system normally takes 10 to 20 minutes of driving in each speed range to learn tire pressures. The speed ranges are 20 to 40 mph (32 to 64 km/h), 40 to 60 mph (64 to 96 km/h), and above 60 mph (96 km/h). This time may be longer depending on your individual driving habits. The learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip. Once learned, the system will remember the tire pressure until the system is reset. 5-60 When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Reset the check tire pressure system, if equipped. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 5-59. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-106. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-70. 5-61 Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-52 for additional information. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 5-62 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-90. If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle. 5-63 Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected. {CAUTION: If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician. See Buying New Tires on page 5-62 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 5-3 for additional information. 5-64 Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. 5-65 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel

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2006 Buick Rendezvous Owners Manual