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in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (–) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. CAUTION:


(Continued)


{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black


negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.


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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) or Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


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If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.


Headlamp Aiming


The headlamp aiming device is under the hood, directly behind the headlamps. Your vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.


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To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:


The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. There should not be any cargo or loading of the vehicle, except it should have a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.


(cid:127) Close all doors.


Tires should be properly inflated.


(cid:127) Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension. Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket or T15 Torx® screwdriver. Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.


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1. Turn the horizontal


aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.


2. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the level


bubble (D) is lined up with zero.


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-60. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Headlamps


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Each headlamp is attached by thumb screws.


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1. Remove the thumb screws by turning them


counterclockwise.


2. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle.


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6. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reassemble the


headlamp assembly.


3. Remove the bulb


socket by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise, while pressing it firmly. Then pull it out. You can use a tool to remove the bulb socket if you are unable to do it by hand.


4. Remove the wire connector from the bulb by


lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.


5. Replace the old bulb with a new bulb. Make sure not


to touch the new bulb element with your fingers, as the oils on your hands will reduce bulb life.


When reassembling, make sure to align the pin at the outboard edge of the headlamp assembly to the plastic retainer at the outboard edge of the vehicle.


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Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Once the headlamp assembly has been removed, reach down from the top of the vehicle, and while pressing the lock tab on the socket, turn the socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out.


2. Remove the old bulb


by pulling it straight out of the socket.


Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-Up Lamps


3. Replace the bulb and turn the bulb assembly back


into place.


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1. There are four studs located at the inside edge of the trunk lid. Remove the protective vinyl caps from the studs.


2. Remove the nuts from the studs.


3. Remove the six fasteners along the top of the trunk lid (three on each side), holding the trunk trim in place.


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4. Pull the trunk trim back to expose the three


remaining nuts holding the taillamp assembly in place. Remove the protective vinyl caps from the studs.


5. From inside the trunk compartment, remove the


nuts from the studs.


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6. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the trunk lid.


The bulbs are located on the back side of the assembly.


7. Turn the bulb socket


one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out. You can use a tool to remove the bulb socket if you are unable to do it by hand.


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8. Once the socket has


been removed, pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.


Rear Quarter Panel Turn Signal and Stoplamps 1. Open the trunk. 2. On either side of the rear of the trunk is a plastic


retainer that holds the cargo net and taillamp assembly in place. Unhook the cargo net from the cargo net retainer and remove the retainer by turning it counterclockwise.


3. Remove the plastic


retaining screws on the trunk’s interior.


9. Replace it with a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall the taillamp


assembly.


4. Pull back the trunk trim panel.


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5. Beneath the trim panel are three nuts that secure the taillamp assembly. Remove the nuts only from the side you want to access. The turn signal and a stoplamp can now be accessed.


6. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the vehicle.


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7. Remove the bulb


socket assembly by turning the socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling it out.


9. Replace it with a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall the taillamp


assembly.


Replacement Bulbs Lamp


Bulb Number


High Beam Headlamp


Low Beam Headlamp


Parking/Turn, Front


Back-Up


Tail/Turn


Tail/Stop


9005


9006


3057


3057


194


3057


For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.


8. Once the socket has


been removed, pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-19 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 5-109. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Position the wipers on the windshield in the


“mid” wipe position.


2. Lift the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield. The windshield wiper does not have a locking upright position feature.


3. Push the tab on the wiper blade assembly and pull


the assembly down enough to release it from the U-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm. 4. Replace the blade. 5. To reinstall the wiper blade assembly, slide it over the wiper arm to engage the U-hooked end on the wiper blade assembly. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


{CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


Passenger Car Tire Example


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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For more information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


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Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-79.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(G) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carrying capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from “A” to “Z”.


Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size.


(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


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Tire Terminology and Definitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles substantially less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.


Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.


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Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.


Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.


Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.


Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.


Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.


Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150
pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73.


UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-75.


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.


Inflation - Tire Pressure The tire and loading information label, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33, for the location of your vehicle’s tire and loading information label. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:


Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading


(cid:127) Bad wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


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Check Tire Pressure System If your vehicle has this feature, the check tire pressure system can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system will not alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly. The TIRE PRESSURE LOW message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if pressure difference (low pressure) is detected in one tire. The check tire pressure system may not alert you if: (cid:127) More than one tire is low.


The vehicle is moving faster than 65 mph (105 km/h). The system is not yet calibrated. The tire treadwear is uneven. The compact spare tire is installed. Tire chains are being used. The vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road.


If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light on page 3-39.


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire — but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tires on page 5-62. When the TIRE PRESSURE LOW message appears on the Driver Information Center, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-79. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-69. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you will need to reset (calibrate) the check tire pressure system. You will also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires and install or remove the compact spare tire. Do not reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high.


To reset (calibrate) the system: 1. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. 2. Press the GAGE INFO button on the DIC until


TIRE PRESSURE appears on the display.


3. Press and hold the DIC RESET button for about five seconds. After five seconds, the display will show TIRE PRESSURE RESET. If TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on the display after about five seconds, see your dealer for service. After you release the DIC RESET button, TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL will appear on the display.


The system completes the calibration process during driving. Calibration time can take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on your driving habits. After the system has been calibrated, the system will alert the driver that a tire is low, up to a maximum speed of 65 mph (105 km/h).


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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-76 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4, for scheduled rotation intervals.


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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label.


Reset the check tire pressure system, if equipped. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 5-70. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-108.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.


When It Is Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the tire and loading information label. For an example of this label and its location, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


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{CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the index.


{CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.


Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.


5-76


Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-80 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels


{CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


{CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


5-77


Tire Chains


{CAUTION:


If your vehicle has P235/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.


Notice: If your vehicle has a tire size other than P235/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


5-78


If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.


{CAUTION:


Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.


If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.


5-79


Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.


{CAUTION:


Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:


1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.


To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.


5-80


The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.


Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


3. Remove the compact spare tire from the trunk. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-89 for more information about the compact spare tire.


The equipment you will need is in the trunk. Instructions for changing your tires are on the inside of the tire cover. You can rest the cover near you for easy reference while you change the tire. 1. Lift the tire cover to gain access to the compact


spare tire and jacking equipment.


2. Remove the wheel wrench and jack from the jack


container.


The tools you will be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B).


5-81


4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower


the jack head until it fits under the vehicle.


5. Near each wheel well is a notch in the plastic trim


panel to position the jack head. You will find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch. Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack head until it fits firmly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle is equipped with the 8 inch (20 cm) hubcap, use the wheel wrench to begin loosening the plastic wheel nut caps. Once you have loosened the plastic wheel nut caps with the wheel wrench, you can finish loosening them with your fingers. Once the plastic wheel nuts have been loosened, pull the hubcap off by hand. If your vehicle is equipped with either the 2 1/2 inch (6 cm) or the 4 inch (10 cm) hubcap, first remove the decorative nut caps using the wheel wrench. 2. Then use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel


nuts, but do not remove them yet.


3. The jack has a bolt at


the end. Attach the wheel wrench to the bolt to create a jack handle.


5-82


{CAUTION:


Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.


{CAUTION:


Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.


6. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench


clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.


5-83


CAUTION:


(Continued)


the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.


{CAUTION:


Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.


7. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.


8. Remove any rust or dirt


from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.


{CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-84


9. Install the compact spare tire on the wheel-mounting


surface.


10. Then reinstall the


wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.


11. Lower the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench


counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.


5-85


Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead


Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque specification.


13. Do not try to put the wheel cover on the compact


spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.


Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.


12. Using the wheel


wrench, tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence.


{CAUTION:


Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut torque specification.


5-86


Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk.


Storing the Flat Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


After you have put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you will need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk.


5-87


Storing the Spare Tire and Tools


{CAUTION:


Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.


Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the diagram.


5-88


A. Wrench B. Jack C. Jack Container


D. Compact Spare


Tire Cover


E. Washer and


Retainer


The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section.


Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must calibrate the Check Tire Pressure System after installing or removing the compact spare. See Check Tire Pressure System on page 5-70. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.


Notice: When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.


5-89


Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol


Laundry Soap


(cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents


Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-96.


Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner


Turpentine Lacquer Thinner


(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


5-90


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can — before


they set.


(cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean


area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.


Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.


3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate


the material and don’t rub it roughly.


5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a


sponge to remove any excess cleaner.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water–dampened


towel or cloth.


7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,


treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry


completely.


3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions


described earlier.


5-91


(cid:127) Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning the Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker won’t be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-96. Notice: cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.


If you use abrasive cleaners when


Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. (cid:127) Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.


You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.


For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.


(cid:127) Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.


(cid:127) Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned


immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.


5-92


(cid:127) (cid:127) Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


{CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-25.


Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-96. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.


5-93


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-96. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted


surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.


5-94


Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle may be equipped with either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.


Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.


Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.


5-95


Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.


Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.


Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


Description


Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish


Usage


Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel.


5-96


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


(cont’d)


Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


(cont’d)


Description White Sidewall Tire Cleaner


Vinyl Cleaner


Glass Cleaner


Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner


Finish Enhancer


Swirl Remover Polish


Cleaner Wax


Usage


Description


Usage


Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish.


Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss


Wash Wax Concentrate


Spot Lifter


Odor Eliminator


Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.


See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-25.


5-97


Vehicle Identification


Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.


5-98


Service Parts Identification Label You will find this label on your spare tire cover. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label, you will find the following: (cid:127) VIN (cid:127) Model designation (cid:127) Paint information (cid:127) Production options and special equipment Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Electrical System


Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-58.


Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of damage caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. There are four fuse blocks in your vehicle: the main and auxiliary instrument panel fuse blocks, the underhood fuse block and the rear fuse block.


Main and Auxiliary Instrument Panel Fuse Blocks The main and auxiliary instrument panel fuse blocks are located under the instrument panel, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Lamps, connectors and the HVAC duct temperature sensors may need to be disconnected and removed to allow access to these fuse blocks. Remove the hush panel on the passenger’s side to reveal the fuses by performing the following steps: 1. Remove the two screws located along the front


edge of the panel.


2. Lower the hush panel. 3. Remove the fuse block cover. 4. Place the wide end of the fuse puller over the


plastic end of the fuse.


5. Squeeze the ends over the fuse and pull it out. When finished, reinstall the fuse block cover and the hush panel. Reinstall lamps, connectors and HVAC duct temperature sensors if they were removed.


5-99


Main Instrument Panel Fuse Block


Fuses


Usage


IGN SEN


ELC


ABS


HVAC


Auto Dimming Mirror, Driver HTS Seat, Rear Defog Relay, MEM Module, Cool LVL Sensor, Pass Heated Seat


HVAC Flat Pk Mtrs, Electronic Level Control Sensor, Electronic Level Control Sensor (R Bec)


Anti-Lock Brake System Module


HVAC Main Con Head, HVAC Programmer, Instrument Panel Cluster


CR CONT


Stepper Motor Cruise, Cruise Switch


HUD


CSTR/SBM


LP PK L


Head-Up Display Switch, Head-Up Display


HVAC Programmer, Instrument Panel Cluster, SBM (275 to LCM) (1135 to BTSI SL)


Underhood Lamp, Left Park/ Sidemarker, Left Park/Turn Lamp, SBM, Left Tail Signal Lamp, Left Tail/Stoplamp, Left Rear Sidemarker


Fuses


Usage


Interior Lamps


PDM Module


HVAC Motor, HVAC Mix Motors


SBM


PDM


A/C


5-100


Fuses


Usage


Auxiliary Instrument Panel Fuse Block


LP PK R


RUN


WSW


Blank


Right Park/Sidemarker Lamp, Right ParK/Turn Lamp, Right Tail/Sign Lamp, Right Tail/Stoplamp, Right Rear Sidemarker, Stop/Taillamp, Tail/Signal Lamp, License Lamp, RFA


Run/Accessory


Wiper Motor


Not Used


WSW/RFA


Wiper Switch, RFA, Rain Sense


B/U LP


Auto Dimming Mirror, Back-Up Lamps


Fuses


Usage


PERIM LP


Perimeter Lamps


ACCY


IGN 3


Accessory


Ignition 3


5-101


Underhood Fuse Block


There are additional fuses located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location. To check the fuses in this underhood fuse block, turn the knob counterclockwise and remove the cover. There is a chart inside the cover that explains the features and controls governed by each fuse and relay.


5-102


Fuses


Usage


Not Used SBM, LCM Turn Signal Pre-Oxygen Sensor, Post-Oxygen Sensor Air Bag (SIR) Powertrain Control Module Air Conditioning Clutch Ignition Feed Horn Relay


Fuses


Usage


Relays


Usage


10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28


Spare Spare Injectors #1-6
C-31
Right High Beam Spare Left High Beam Spare Right Low Beam Left Low Beam Stop Fuel Pump Relay (Wire in BEC) Run/Crank Powertrain Control Module Parking Lamps Hazard Flashers Spare Spare ABS #2


29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37


Ignition Horn Cooling Fan 1
Starter Not Used Cooling Fan SP Cooling Fan 2
Air Conditioning Clutch Fuel Pump


Fuses


Usage


38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46


Bat #1
Blower Motor Cooling Fan 1
Headlamp BAT #2
Ignition Starter ABS Fuse Puller


5-103


Removing the Rear Seat Cushion If, when removing or reinstalling the rear Notice: seat, you do not do it carefully, you could damage the fuse center. Avoid contact between the rear seat and the fuse center whenever you remove or reinstall the rear seat. To remove the rear seat cushion, do the following: 1. Pull up on the front of the cushion to release the


front hooks.


2. Pull the cushion up and out toward the front of


the vehicle.


To reinstall the rear seat cushion, do the following:


{CAUTION:


A safety belt that isn’t properly routed through the seat cushion or is twisted won’t provide the protection needed in a crash. If the safety belt hasn’t been routed through the seat cushion at all, it won’t be there to work for the next passenger. The person sitting in that position could be badly injured. After reinstalling the seat cushion, always check to be sure that the safety belts are properly routed and are not twisted.


5-104


1. Buckle the center passenger position safety belt,


then route the safety belts through the proper slots in the seat cushion. Do not let the safety belts get twisted.


2. Slide the rear of the cushion up and under the seatback so the rear locating guides hook into the wire loops on the back frame.


3. With the seat cushion lowered, push rearward and


then press down on the seat cushion until the spring locks on both ends engage.


4. Check to make sure the safety belts are properly


routed and that no portion of any safety belt is trapped under the seat. Also make sure the seat cushion is secured.


5-105


Rear Compartment Fuse Block Additional fuses are located in the fuse center under the rear seat.


Relays


Usage


Heated Backlite Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Trunk Release Electronic Level Control


5-106


Circuit Breakers


Usage


Power Seat


Electronic Level Control Sensor, Electronic Level Control Compressor Solenoid


Fuses


Usage


10


11


12


13


14


15


16


Crank


Accessory Outlet


Powertrain Control Module for

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