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explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


NOTICE:


Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.


For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. See “Traction Control System” in the Index. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.


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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care


Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.


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Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Passenger Compartment Air Filter Supercharger Oil Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes


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Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts


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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.


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CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index. If you have the 3800 V6 engine (VIN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If you have the 3800 Supercharged V6 engine (VIN Code 1), use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. With the 3800 Supercharged engine, in an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. If you are using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


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It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.


Canada Only


Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.


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If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for service.


To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.


NOTICE:


Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. Filling Your Tank


CAUTION:


Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.


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The release button for the fuel door is located to the left of the steering column.


There is also a manual fuel door release. It is located in the top of the trunk compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


The tethered cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


Pull the tab to release the fuel door.


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While refueling, hang the tethered cap from the hook on the fuel door. To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.


CAUTION:


If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


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NOTICE:


If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: D Dispense gasoline only into


approved containers.


D Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.


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Checking Things Under the Hood


Hood Release


CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


1. To open the hood, pull


the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.


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2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the


secondary hood release. It is under the front edge of the grille.


3. Lift up on this lever as you lift up the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.


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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3800 (L36) engine (3800 Supercharged (L67) engine similar), here’s what you will see:


A. Battery B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Oil Dipstick D. Engine Oil Fill Cap


E. Automatic Transaxle


Fluid Dipstick


F. Brake Master Cylinder G. Windshield Washer


Fluid Reservoir


H. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


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Engine Oil


Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.


The engine oil dipstick is located behind the engine cooling fans and in front of the engine oil fill cap. The top of the dipstick is a round, yellow loop.


If the ENGINE OIL LOW - CHECK LEVEL DIC message appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “DIC Warnings and Messages” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.


See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


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Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.


NOTICE:


Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


Add engine oil at the engine oil fill cap next to the oil dipstick. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.


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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.


If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.


You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart: SAE 10W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60_F (16_C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50. 6-14


NOTICE:


Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.


GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles Without the GM Oil Life Systemt) If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).


This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.


D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent


driving in stop-and-go traffic).


D Most trips are through dusty areas. D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of


your vehicle.


D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi


or other commercial application.


Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.


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When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles With the GM Oil Life Systemt Option) If so equipped, your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life Systemt will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 10,000 miles (16 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the Oil Life System whenever the oil is changed.


How to Reset the Oil Life System (If Equipped) Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Oil Life System, press and hold the DIC RESET button for more than five seconds while the OIL LIFE INDEX is being displayed on the DIC. The oil life will change to 100%. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:


The engine air cleaner/filter is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


1. Remove the wing nuts on the air cleaner


housing cover.


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2. Remove the air intake hose that snaps over the


throttle body by pulling the hose upward and away from the throttle body. As you are detaching the hose, remove the air cleaner housing cover by pulling upward and rearward.


3. Check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Reattach the air intake hose. 5. Reinstall the air cleaner housing cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.


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CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


NOTICE:


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.


Passenger Compartment Air Filter Passenger compartment air, both outside air and recirculated air, is routed through a passenger compartment filter, which is part of a three piece filter system. The filter removes certain particles from the air, including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow, which may occur more quickly in dusty areas, indicate that the filter needs to be replaced early.


The particle filter is located inside the air control module. The air control module is located behind an access panel near the accelerator pedal.


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The filter should be replaced as part of routine scheduled maintenance. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for replacement intervals. See your dealer for details on changing the filter. Once you remove your filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered. Supercharger Oil


What Kind of Oil to Use Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. How to Check and Add Oil Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.


Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.


CAUTION:


If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.


1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before removing it. 2. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 inch Allen wrench. 3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the


bottom of the threads of the inspection hole. 4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place.


Tighten to 88 lb-in (10 N·m).


When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first.


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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature


regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.


D In hilly or mountainous terrain. D When doing frequent trailer towing. D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


NOTICE:


Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while. D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.


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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: D Park your vehicle on a level place.


Keep the engine running.


D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transaxle fluid dipstick top is a round, red loop and is located next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.


1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or


paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.


NOTICE:


We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under “How to Check.”


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way.


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NOTICE:


When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as


they should.


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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.


CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.


NOTICE:


If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.


NOTICE:


If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.


Checking Coolant


The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT or a little higher.


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CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index. Radiator Pressure Cap


NOTICE:


Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.


Power Steering Fluid


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. The power steering fluid reservoir on the L36 and L67 engine is located below the generator and behind the accessory drive belt on the passenger’s side toward the rear of the engine.


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How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID LOW will be displayed on the DIC (if equipped).


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The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located by the coolant recovery tank on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


NOTICE:


D When using concentrated washer fluid,


follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.


D Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.


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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


NOTICE:


D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage


brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


NOTICE:


Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for battery location. WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.


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Headlamps


Each headlamp is attached by thumb screws.


Bulb Replacement The following procedure tells you how to replace the bulbs for some of the exterior lamps. For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulbs not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department. Halogen Bulbs


CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


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1. Remove the thumb screws by turning


them counterclockwise.


2. Pull the headlamp away from the vehicle.


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3. Remove the bulb socket by turning it one-quarter turn counterclockwise, while pressing it firmly. Then pull it out. You can use pliers to remove the bulb socket if you are unable to do it by hand.


4. Remove the wire connector from the bulb by


lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.


5. Replace the old bulb with a new bulb. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reassemble the


lamp assembly.


When reassembling the lamp, make sure to align the pin at the outboard edge of the headlamp assembly to the plastic retainer at the outboard edge of the vehicle.


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Headlamp Aiming


The headlamp aiming device is under the hood, directly behind the headlamps. Your vehicle has a headlamp system equipped with horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your vertical and horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.


If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.


NOTICE:


To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.


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Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.


1. Turn the horizontal


aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.


To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly


level surface.


D If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud


attached to it.


D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


D There should not be any cargo or loading of the


vehicle, except it should have a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.


D Close all doors. D Tires should be properly inflated. D Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension. Start with the horizontal aim. The adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 TorxR socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.


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2. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the level


bubble (D) is lined up with zero.


Front Turn Signal 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as described in the


headlamp removal procedure previously in this section.


2. Once the headlamp assembly has been removed, reach down from the top of the vehicle and, while pressing the lock tab on the socket, turn the socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out.


3. Remove the old bulb by pulling it straight out


of the socket.


4. Replace the bulb and turn the bulb assembly back


into place.


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Rear Quarterpanel Turn Signal Lamps and Stoplamps There are turn lamps and stoplamps that are part of the taillamp assembly located at the rear of the vehicle on each rear quarterpanel. The following instructions explain how to access these bulbs. (To access the lamps located on the trunk lid see the information following.) 1. Open the trunk. On either side of the rear of the


trunk is a plastic retainer that holds the cargo net and taillamp assembly in place.


2. Unhook the cargo net


from the cargo net retainer and remove the retainer by turning it counterclockwise.


3. Remove the plastic retaining screws on the


trunk’s interior.


4. Pull back the trunk trim panel.


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5. Beneath the trim panel are three nuts that secure the taillamp assembly. Remove these nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Remove the nuts only from the side you want to access. The turn signal and a stoplamp can now be accessed.


6. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the vehicle.


7. Remove the bulb socket assembly by turning the socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pulling it out.


8. Once the socket has


been removed, pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.


9. Replace it with a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall the


taillamp assembly.


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Trunk-Mounted Rear Turn Signals, Stoplamps and Back-Up Lamps


1. There are four studs


located at the edge of the trunk lid. Remove the protective vinyl caps from the studs.


2. Use a 10 mm wrench to remove the nuts from


the studs.


There are turn lamps, stoplamps and back-up bulbs located behind the taillamp assembly along the trunk lid. The following instructions explain how to access these bulbs.


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3. Next, remove the six fasteners along the top of the


trunk lid (three on each side), holding the trunk trim in place.


4. Pull the trunk trim back to expose the three remaining nuts holding the taillamp assembly in place. Remove the protective vinyl caps from the studs.


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5. From inside the trunk compartment, use a 10 mm


wrench to remove the nuts from the studs.


6. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the trunk lid.


The bulbs are located on the back side of the assembly.


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7. Turn the bulb socket


one-quarter turn counterclockwise and pull it out. You can use pliers to remove the bulb socket if you are unable to do it by hand.


8. Once the socket has


been removed, pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Position the wipers on the windshield in the


“mid” wipe position.


2. Lift the windshield wiper arm away from the


windshield. The windshield wiper does not have a locking upright position feature.


9. Replace it with a new bulb. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall the


taillamp assembly.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Buick Warranty booklet for details.


CAUTION:


Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as


overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


CAUTION: (Continued)


3. Push the tab on the wiper blade assembly and pull the assembly down enough to release it from the “U” hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm.


4. Replace the blade. 5. To reinstall the wiper blade assembly, slide it over the wiper arm to engage the “U” hooked end on the wiper blade assembly. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place.


For the correct windshield wiper blade replacement length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. 6-46


CAUTION: (Continued)


NOTICE:


D Overinflated tires are more likely to


be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your


tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is located on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy. If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.


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When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).


How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Check Tire Pressure System (If Equipped) The check tire pressure system can alert you to a large change in the pressure of one tire. The system won’t alert you before you drive that a tire is low or flat. You must begin driving before the system will work properly.


The TIRE PRESSURE LOW message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if pressure difference (low pressure) is detected in one tire. The check tire pressure system may not alert you if: D more than one tire is low, D the vehicle is moving faster than 65 mph (105 km/h), D the system is not yet calibrated, D the tire treadwear is uneven, D the compact spare tire is installed, D tire chains are being used, or D the vehicle is being driven on a rough or frozen road. If the anti-lock brake system warning light comes on, the check tire pressure system may not be working properly. See your dealer for service. Also, see “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index. The check tire pressure system detects differences in tire rotation speeds that are caused by changes in tire pressure. The system can alert you about a low tire -- but it doesn’t replace normal tire maintenance. See “Tires” in the Index.


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When the TIRE PRESSURE LOW message appears on the Driver Information Center, you should stop as soon as you can and check all your tires for damage. If a tire is flat, see “If a Tire Goes Flat” in the Index. Also check the tire pressure in all four tires as soon as you can. See “Inflation-Tire Pressure” in the Index. Any time you adjust a tire’s pressure or have one or more tires repaired or replaced, you’ll need to reset (calibrate) the check tire pressure system. You’ll also need to reset the system whenever you rotate the tires, buy new tires, install or remove the compact spare, and whenever the vehicle’s battery has been disconnected. Don’t reset the check tire pressure system without first correcting the cause of the problem and checking and adjusting the pressure in all four tires. If you reset the system when the tire pressures are incorrect, the check tire pressure system will not work properly and may not alert you when a tire is low or high.


To reset (calibrate) the system: 1. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. 2. Press the GAGE INFO button on the DIC until


TIRE PRESSURE appears on the display.


3. Press and hold the DIC RESET button for about five seconds. After five seconds, the display will show TIRE PRESSURE RESET. If TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on the display after about five seconds, see your dealer for service. After you release the DIC RESET button, TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL will appear on the display.


The system completes the calibration process during driving. Calibration time can take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on your driving habits. After the system has been calibrated, the system will alert the driver that a tire is low, up to a maximum speed of 65 mph (105 km/h).


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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.


Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Reset the Check Tire Pressure System. See “Check Tire Pressure System” in the Index. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.


CAUTION:


Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.


When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. 6-50


When It’s Time for New Tires


One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.


You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places


around the tire.


D You can see cord or fabric showing through the


tire’s rubber.


D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep


enough to show cord or fabric.


D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that


can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.


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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.


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CAUTION:


Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.


CAUTION:


If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.


Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.


Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.


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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.


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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.


CAUTION:


Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.


NOTICE:


The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.


See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.


Used Replacement Wheels


CAUTION:


Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.


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Tire Chains


NOTICE:


Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.


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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.


Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.


Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain. D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean


area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.


D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the


entire area immediately or it will set.


Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.


Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. 3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on


the container label to form thick suds.


4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.


Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly. 5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge


to remove the suds.


6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.


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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the


soiled area with cool water.


2. If a stain remains, follow the Multi-Purpose Interior


Cleaner instructions described earlier.


3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.


4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to


dry completely.


3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for


Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.


Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.


You may have to do it more than once.


D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you


don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.


Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.


See your dealer for this product.


D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.


D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned


immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.


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Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker won’t be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap.


Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.


CAUTION:


Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.


Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.


6-59


Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


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Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.


NOTICE:


Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.


Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.


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Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.


NOTICE:


When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.


Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.


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Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.


Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Buick will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.


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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials


PART NUMBER


SIZE


DESCRIPTION


USAGE


994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427


Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated


23 in. x 25 in. Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 oz. (0.473 L) Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L)


Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner


1052918**


8 oz. (0.237 L)


Armor Allt Protectant


Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner Wheel Cleaner


1052925


16 oz. (0.473 L)


Capture Dry Spot Remover


2.5 sq. ft.


16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L)


1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964* 12377966* 12377984* See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.


12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)


Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine


Finish Enhancer


Surface Cleaner


Cleaner Wax


Exterior polishing cloth


Removes tar, road oil and asphalt


Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass


Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops


Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints


Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglast, plastic,


rubber and vinyl


Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels


and floor mats


Spray on and rinse with water


Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric


Shines vehicle without scratching


Spray on tire shine


Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish


Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks


* For exterior use only. **Not recommended for use on instrument panels.


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Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the spare tire cover. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and


special equipment.


Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.


Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)


This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.


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Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment


NOTICE:


Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.


Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.


Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of damage caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. There are three fuse blocks in your vehicle: the instrument panel fuse block located under the instrument panel, the underhood fuse block located on the passenger’s side engine compartment and the rear fuse block, located under the rear seat.


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Instrument Panel Fuse Block and Bussed Electrical Center (BEC) The instrument panel fuse block and BEC are located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, under the instrument panel. Remove the hush panel on the passenger’s side to reveal the fuses. To remove the panel, do the following: 1. Remove the two 7 mm screws located along the front


edge of the panel.


2. Lower the hush panel. 3. Remove the cover. Now you can see the fuses and


replace them.


4. Place the wide end of the fuse puller over the plastic


end of the fuse.


5. Squeeze the ends over the fuse and pull it out. When finished, reinstall the hush panel. Reinstall lamps, connectors, and HVAC duct temperature sensors if they were removed.


Instrument Panel Fuse Block


Fuse SBM PDM A/C


Usage Interior Lamps PDM Module HVAC Motor, HVAC Mix Motors


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Usage EC Mirror, Driver HTS Seat, Rear Defog Relay, MEM Module, Cool LVL Sensor, Pass Heated Seat HVAC Flat Pk Mtrs, ELC Sensor, ELC Sensor (R Bec) Anti-Lock Brake System Module HVAC Main Con Head, HVAC Programmer, IPC Stepper Motor CR, Cruise Switch HUD Switch, HUD Display HVAC Programmer, IPC (Cluster), SBM (275 to LCM) (1135 to BTSI SL)


Fuse LP PK L


LP PK R


RUN WSW Blank WSW/RFA B/U LP

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