1997 Buick Park Avenue Owners Manual

proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongug. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide’’ in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

4-35

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into you vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are 4-36

driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns

I NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug a trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lamps goes out. So, when you have a trailer lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they’re all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lamps, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lamps is out.

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down to THIRD (3) and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and

0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belts, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

f i NOTES

f i NOTES

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5-2 5-2 5-3 5-7 5- 12

Hazard Warning Flashers Other Warning Devices Jump Starting Towing Your Vehicle Engine Overheating

5-22 5-22 5-32 5-33

If a Tire Goes Flat Changing a Flat Tire Compact Spare Tire If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

Hazard Warning Flashers

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press down on the button again. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

5-2

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps in this part to do

it safely. A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you.

0 They contain gas that can explode or ignite.

They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

1 NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) before setting the parking brake.

5-3

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off the

radios and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. It could save your radio !

5. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on

each battery.

A CAUTION:

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

A CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5-4

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode, People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded, Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.

’ Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.

Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock and the vehicles could be damaged. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

engines

the

Fans or moving engine other

can you parts injure badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts

once

7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the

battery’s

black negative (-) cable to the good negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch any-thmg until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-5

13. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

10. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away

from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-6

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a Buick dealer or a professional towing service tow your Park Avenue. See “Roadside Assistance’’ in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding after-market items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle can only be towed with certain equipment, as described later in this section.

0 That your vehicle has front-wheel drive.

The make, model and year of your vehicle. 0 Whether you can still move the shift lever. 0 If there was an accident, what was damaged. When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed.

0 Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.

Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always secure the vehicle on each side with separate safety chains when towing it. Never use J-hooks. Use T-hooks instead.

5-7

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and suspension components.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the front wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the front wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance restrictions later in this section .or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the front wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

5-8

Front Towing

Attach T-hook chains behind the front wheels into the bottom slots of the cradle rails on both sides.

Position a 4" x 4" wood beam across the sling chains contacting the bottom of the radiator support. Position the lower sling crossbar just behind the rear edge of the front bumper.

5-9

Rear Towing Tow Limits -- 55 rnph (88 k d ) , 500 miles (800 krn) Attach T-hook chains on both sides in the slotted holes in the floor pan support rails just ahead of the rear wheels.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

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Position the lower sling crossbar directly under the rear bumper.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

5-11

Engine Overheating You will find a warning light about a hot engine, as well as a coolant temperature gage, on your Buick instrument panel. If your vehicle is equipped with the optional Driver Information Center, an Engine Coolant Low warning will appear on the display. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

5-12

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0) or THIRD (3).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-13

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

A CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don't do anything else until it cools down.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

5-14

The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

5-15

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there's one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator

pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come oul

at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when

the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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I

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the mTLL

COLD mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-20

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fans.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Thrn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

5-22

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you’ll need is in the trunk. Lift the carpeting from the floor of the trunk. Lift and remove the spare tire cover for access to the spare tire and jack. Remove the wheel wrench and jack from the jack container. Turn the spare tire retainer bolt counterclockwise and remove the retainer assembly.

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I

Wheel Covers The following steps are necessary if you have the alloy (aluminum) wheel with a center cover that conceals the wheel nuts.

Remove the spare tire from the trunk. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the compact spare. The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and the wheel wrench (B).

5-24

1. Insert the flat end of the wheel wrench in the notch and

pry off the center cover. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could be scratched or damaged.

2. If your vehicle has this aluminum wheel, you may have plastic wheel nut caps. Use the wheel nut wrench to remove the wheel nut caps and to loosen the wheel nuts.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts, but

don’t remove them yet.

2. The jack has a bolt at the

end. Attach the wheel wrench to the bolt to create a jack handle.

3. When reinstalling the decorative nut caps, tighten the

caps snugly with the wheel wrench, then continue one-eighth of a turn rotation for steel caps and one-quarter of a turn rotation for plastic caps. It is not required to remove the center cover on this wheel; however, if it should be necessary, it should be removed from the back side by pushing out with a blunt tool and not pried off from the front. When reinstalling the cap, there is a plastic alignment pin which must be aligned with the notch in the wheel to assure proper installation.

4. When replacing the cover after the wheel is put back

on the vehicle, do not use a hammer or mallet to install the cover.

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(28 CM) A

4. Near each wheel well is a notch in the plastic trim

panel to position the jack head. You’ll find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch. Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack head until it fits firmly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare tire near you.

3. Rotate the wheel wrench clockwise (to the right) to

lower the jack head a few inches.

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Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5. Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-27

' 7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

/1\ CAUTMN:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-28

8. Replace the wheel nuts

with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

9. Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

10. Using the wheel

wrench, tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence.

A CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 Nom).

5-29

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

Don’t try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.

NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

L!b, CAUTION: I

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

After you’ve put the compact spare tire on your vehicle, you’ll need to store the flat tire in your trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the flat tire in the trunk.

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Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk.

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

A CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 Wa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. You must calibrate the Tire Pressure Monitor after installing or removing the compact spare. See “Driver Information Center - Controls and Displays” in the Index. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

Store the compact spare tire and tools as shown in the diagram.

A SPARE TIRE COVER

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section.

5-32

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

I NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

1 NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

f i NOTES

kb NOTES

5-36

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your Buick. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

6-2 6-3 6-9 6-12 6- 17 6-20 6-2 1 6-24 6-28 6-29 6-30 6-34 6-34 6-46 6-47

Service Fuel Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Air Cleaner Supercharger Oil Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires

6-56 6-57 6-6 1 6-64 6-64 6-65 6-66 6-67 6-73 6-75 6-76 6-77 6-77 6-78 6-78

Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Buick Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Engine Specifications Vehicle Dimensions Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

Service Your Buick dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Delco

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Buick Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Buick than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Buick” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

6-2

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your Buick dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) If you have the 3800 engine (VJN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

6-3

If you have the 3800 Supercharged engine (VIN Code l), use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. With the 3800 Supercharged engine, in an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur. If you are using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. At a minimum, the gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Buick dealer for service.

6-4

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

I NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors International Product Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Filling Your Tank

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

6-6

The release button for the fuel door is to the left of the steering column.

There is also a manual fuel door release. This mechanism is located in the top of the tnxnk compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Pull the white tab to release the fuel door.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. If necessary twist it clockwise to secure it. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Buick” in the Index.

6-8

Hood Release

To open the hood, pull the handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

Checking Things Under the Hood A CAUTION:

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

6-9

Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the secondary hood release. It is under the front edge of the grille.

Lift up on this black lever as you lift up the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it finnly.

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3800 Series I1 (Code K) Engine (L36) When you open the hood on the 3800 (L36) engine, here’s what you will see (3800 Supercharged (L67) engine similar):

“14 ,....

A. Battcry B . Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Oil Dipstick

D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Automatic Transaxle

Fluid Dipstick

F. Brake Master Cylinder

G. Windshield Washer

Fluid Reservoir

H. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank I. Air Cleaner

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Engine Oil 3 \\

If you have the Driver Information Center, an ENGINE OIL LOW-CHECK LEVEL message will appear when the engine oil is approximately 1 quart (IL) low. If the message is displayed, check the dipstick level and add oil as needed.

Your Park Avenue Ultra has a 3800 Supercharged engine. Buick chose supercharging rather than turbocharging because Buick emphasizes smooth, refined power. The supercharger is a device which is designed to pump more air into the engine than it would normally use. This air mixed with fuel creates increased engine power. Since the supercharger is a pump and is driven from an engine accessory drive belt, increased pressure is available at all driving conditions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) works with a vacuum control to regulate the increased pressure required during specific driving conditions. When this increased pressure or boost is not desired, such as during idling and light throttle cruising, the excess air that the supercharger is pumping is routed through a bypass. All of these controls working together provide high performance character and fuel efficiency in the 3800 V6 Supercharged Buick engine. The power steering pump and reservoir are mounted on the rear (driver’s side) of the engine block. See “Maintenance Schedule” in the Index for when you should check the fluid.

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It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on

level ground.

Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

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When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index,

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Add engine oil at the engine oil fill cap next to the oil dipstick. Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL

FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

.- e

FOR MIS SYMBOL

LOOK

1OW-30

SAE I PREFERRED above 0°F

I-18"C)

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

WE4 "F

IT 'HER

"(

c1oo-

t 3

+ 80 -

+ 60 -

t2

t l

+ 4 0 -

1.4

+ 20 -

- 7

0 -

- 1

COLD

WEATHER

SAE 5W-30

As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it's going to be colder than 60°F (16°C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines "Starburst" symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your Buick dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. (See “Change Engine Oil Soon” in the Index.) If none of them is true, use the long triphighway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. If the optional CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes on, you will need to change your oil sooner than either mileage specified. Depending upon driving habits, the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message may come on as early as 2,000 miles or less from the last time the oil life index was reset. (See “Oil Life Index” in the Index.) Always reset the oil life monitor after every oil change.

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Air Cleaner The air cleaner is in the front right section of the engine compartment.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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1. Remove the wing nuts on the air cleaner

housing cover.

2. Remove the air intake hose that snaps over the

throttle body by pulling the hose upward and away from the throttle body. As you are detaching the hose, remove the air cleaner housing cover by pulling upward and rearward.

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3. Replace the air filter. 4. Reattach the air intake hose. 5. Reinstall the air cleaner housing cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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Supercharger Oil

Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.

How to Check and Add Oil Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.

A CAUTION:

If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.

When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first. What Kind of Oil to Use See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index and use only the recommended oil.

1.

2.

3.

4.

Clean the area around the oil fill plug before removing it. Remove the oil fill plug using a 3/16 inch Allen wrench. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the bottom of the threads of the inspection hole. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place. Torque to 88 lb-in (10 Nem).

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: 0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain. 0 When doing frequent trailer towing. 0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Buick dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your 1 transaxle fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10OC). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to drive longer.

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Checking the Fluid Level

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The transaxle fluid

dipstick top is a round red loop and is next to the brake master cylinder behind the engine block. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, then pull it back out again.

wait three seconds and

6-2’

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring. it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overjii11.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

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NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or engine coolant will require change sooner -- at radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not. covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling s stem in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km) whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL’ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265 OF ( 129 O C). Protect against rust and corrosion.

0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

/!\ CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

6-25

Checking Coolant

t’

ENG. COOLANT LOW

CHECK LEVEL

!HBIBNN

If this ENG. COOLANT LOW-CHECK LEVEL message comes on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

I A CAUTION:

Thrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

~~

6-27

Radiator Pressure Cap

Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE:

Your radiator pressure cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an AC@ cap is recommended. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended.

6-28

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. The power steering fluid reservoir on the L36 and L67 engine is located below the generator and behind the accessory drive belt on the driver’s side toward the rear of the engine.

How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to t~@, See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

6-29

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

(GM Part

If you have’too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if’ the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a ‘crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

6-31

Brake Wear Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal

firmly).

A CA, TION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection’’ in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections”. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Every new Buick has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

A CAUTION:

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index. Bulb Replacement The following procedure tells you how to replace your headlamp bulbs. Halogen Bulbs

A CAUTION:

and

pressurized have bulbs

gas Halogen

inside can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or

Batteries have acid that can burn that can explode. You can be badly hurt aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

if you

you and gas others could be injured.

Be sure to read and

follow the instructions on the bulb

package.

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Headlamps

Each headlamp is attached by thumb screws.

1. Remove the thumb screws by turning in a

counterclockwise direction.

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3. Remove the bulb

socket by turning it one-quarter of a turn counterclockwise, while pressing it firmly, then pull it out. Note: You can use pliers to remove the bulb socket if you are unable to do it by hand.

2. Pull the headlamp away from the car.

4. Remove the wire connector from the bulb by

lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base.

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Front Turn Signal The front turn signal bulbs can be accessed by removing the headlamp assembly as described in the previous procedure.

Once the headlamp assembly has been removed, reach down from the top of the vehicle and, while pressing the lock tab on the socket, turn the socket one-quarter of a turn and pull it out.

5. Reverse the above steps to reassemble the

lamp assembly. When reassembling the lamp, make sure to align the pin at the outboard edge of the headlamp assembly to the plastic retainer at the outboard edge of the vehicle.

Remove the old bulb by pulling it straight out of the socket. Replace the bulb and turn the bulb assembly back into place.

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~

Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has the composite headlamp system. These headlamps have horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident and the headlamp aim seems to be affected, see your Buick dealer. Headlamps on damaged vehicles may require recalibration of the horizontal aim by your Buick dealer. To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: 0 The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly

level surface.

0 The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud

attached to it.

0 There should not be any cargo or loading of the

vehicle, except it should have a full tank of gas and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

0 Tires should be properly inflated. 0 The horizontal indicator should read “0.”

NOTICE: I ~~

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

State inspection stations will allow a vertical reading of plus 0.76 degrees or minus 0.76 degrees from the center of the bubble.

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It is recommended that the upper limit not exceed plus 0.4 degrees from the center of the bubble. Other drivers may flash their high beams at you if your adjustment is much above plus 0.4 degrees.

The headlamp aiming device is under the hood, directly behind the headlamps.

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If you find that the headlamp aiming needs adjustment, follow these steps: Start with the vertical headlamp aim. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Tom@ socket or T15 Torx screwdriver. 1. Check the vertical aim for each headlamp. The

vehicle must be on a level surface. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the bubble in the level is lined up with the 0 (zero).

2. Now adjust the horizontal aim. The horizontal

aiming device is located on the inboard side of each headlamp assembly, down lower from the vertical aiming device. Check the horizontal aim and adjust it as necessary. There is a round dial located on the horizontal adjuster, with an alignment notch on it. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the zero is lined up with the notch.

3. Now, visually recheck the vertical aim, to make sure it is still correct after the horizontal aim adjustment. Readjust, if necessary.