2007 Buick Lacrosse Owners Manual

If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

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Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message will come on in the Driver Information Center (DIC), if the vehicle has one, along with the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel, to indicate the vehicle has entered overheated engine protection operating mode. The temperature gage will also indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 353.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, this is what you will see:

3.8L V6 Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

3.6L V6 Engine

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

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When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold fill line on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, the vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 370 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold fill line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 363
for more information. Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold fill line, start the vehicle.

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If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the cooling system through the coolant fill neck under the pressure cap, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator (3.8L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.

1. You can remove the

radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now

push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing, near the upper radiator hose.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350 for more information on location.

4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 363 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.

5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the

engine and the compartment.

6. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

cold fill line.

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9. By this time, the coolant level inside the

radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck. 10. Then replace the radiator pressure cap.

At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the cold fill line when the engine is cold.

7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

8. Start the engine and let it run until you can

feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.

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How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System (3.6L V6 Engine) Notice: Your engine has a specific cooling system drain and fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If your engine’s cooling system needs to be drained and re-filled, please see your dealer.

1. You can remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose is no longer hot.

Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means that there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and

remove it.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

3. Fill the cooling system with the proper

DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 363 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the

engine and the compartment.

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Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350 for reservoir location.

5. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the

cold fill line.

6. Reinstall the coolant recovery tank cap and

the pressure cap.

7. If the coolant in the recovery tank is constantly

low, you should have your dealership service department inspect the vehicle for leaks.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with

a clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the

fluid level on the dipstick.

If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine, the fluid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold, and at the HOT mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added.

If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, the fluid level should be between the Min (Minimum) and Max (Maximum) marks when the engine is cold, and at the Max mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the Min mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 470. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid is low, a low washer fluid light may appear on the instrument panel cluster. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 197 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the LOW WASHER FLUID message will display when the fluid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 208
for more information.

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Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350
for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer

fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 186.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3
brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 470. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 442.

(cid:127)

Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

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{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.

Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you may not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). Refer to Shifting Out of Park (P) on page 120.

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 385 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

or ignite.

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a

Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles.

Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 350 for more information on location.

386

To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up.

3.8L V6 Engine shown,

3.6L V6 Engine

similar

Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Notice: If you connect a negative cable to the Engine Control Module (ECM), ECM mounting bracket or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Attach the negative cable to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, other than the ECM, ECM bracket or cables attached to the ECM bracket. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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3.8L V6 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the

positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect

it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to

the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−)

cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are connected

Notice: or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

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Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or

Remote Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Remote Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

5. Return the fuse block cover to its original

position.

Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted.

It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps

are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.

(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a

perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall.

(cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is

perpendicular to the wall.

(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or

mud on it.

(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.

(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a

full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

(cid:127) Tires should be properly inflated.

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Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. The vertical headlamp aiming screws are located under the hood near the headlamps.

To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps, do the following:

1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 349 for more information.

2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the

low-beam headlamp.

3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.

The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.

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4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall

the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4.

6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the flat surface.

7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws,

which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the

headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 400. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.

10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite

headlamp.

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Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps

Low-Beam Headlamp and Sidemarker Bulbs To replace a low-beam headlamp or sidemarker bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 349 for more information.

2. Remove the fastener from the front fascia.

The fastener is located inboard of the headlamp assembly, near the high-beam headlamp.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. High-Beam Headlamp

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6. Pull forward on the front fascia and then pull the headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal. You may have someone assist you with this step.

7. Remove the access cover from behind the

bulb being replaced.

8. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn to

remove it from the headlamp assembly.

9. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old

bulb from the socket.

10. Replace with a new bulb. 11. Reverse all the steps to reassemble the

headlamp assembly. When replacing the plastic retaining clip, push down on it while pushing rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure.

3. Pull up on the plastic retaining clip (C) while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp.

4. Remove the screw (A) from the metal

headlamp retainer to pull up and release the headlamp assembly.

5. Remove the push pin (B) retaining the front

fascia.

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High-Beam Headlamp Bulbs To replace the high-beam headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on

page 349 for more information.

2. Locate the high-beam headlamp bulb socket. 3. Remove the access cover from behind the

bulb being replaced.

4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull it from the headlamp assembly.

5. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old

bulb from the socket.

6. Replace with a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall.

Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal/parking lamp bulb in the front fascia, do the following: 1. Locate the front turn signal/parking bulb

socket by reaching behind the front bumper.

2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull it out of the assembly.

3. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old

bulb from the socket.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall.

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal, sidemarker, stoplamp or back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 100

for more information.

2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle

has one.

398

3. Remove the four plastic wing nuts retaining

the trunk trim. There are two wing nuts located on the driver’s side (shown) and two located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.

4. Pull back the trunk trim.

5. Remove the two wing nuts holding the

taillamp assembly in place.

6. Pull out the taillamp assembly and disconnect

the wiring harness.

D. Stoplamp/Taillamp/

A. Taillamp B. Back-up C. Taillamp 7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to

Turn Signal E. Sidemarker

remove it.

8. Replace with a new bulb. 9. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 10. Reverse these steps to reinstall the

taillamp assembly.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamps

Bulb Number

Back-Up Lamps

Fog Lamp

Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps

Headlamps

High-Beam

Low-Beam

Front/Rear Sidemarker, License Plate Lamp, and Taillamp

Stoplamps and Taillamps

921

H11

3157NAK

H9

H11

194

3057

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of

the license plate lamps to the fascia.

2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward

through the fascia opening.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull the bulb straight out of the socket.

4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

license plate lamp.

400

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 471. Here is how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away

from the windshield.

Windshield Replacement Your vehicle is equipped with an acoustic windshield. If you ever have to have your windshield replaced be sure to get an acoustic windshield so you will continue to have the benefits an acoustic windshield can provide. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 462 for more information on wiper blade inspection.

2. While holding the wiper arm, pull the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm.

3. Install the new wiper blade onto the wiper arm

and snap the clip into place.

401

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 409.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to

be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319. (cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 421.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

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Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 437 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 425.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 409.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

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Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 409.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.

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Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 409 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 417.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 421.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 319.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 319. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 437.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, except for the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light, located in the instrument panel cluster. If your vehicle has the uplevel Driver Information Center (DIC), a warning message to check the pressure in a specific tire displays at the same time the low tire pressure warning light comes on. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message CHECK TIRE PRESSURE come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Vehicles that have the uplevel DIC buttons can also check tire pressure levels by pressing the gages button.

For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 200 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 208. During cooler weather conditions, the low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message, if your vehicle has this feature, may come on when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)

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As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.

Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists.

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Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor, an error message SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM appears on the DIC display, if your vehicle has this feature. If you have replaced a tire/wheel assembly without transferring the TPMS sensors, the error message displays. Once you re-install the TPMS sensors, the error message should go off. See your dealer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on.

When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. A tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 409. Your vehicle’s TPMS system can warn you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 416 and Tires on page 402.

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TPMS Sensor Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel positions, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over.

The TPMS matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)

transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for approximately five seconds. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TPMS sensor matching process can begin.

4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve

stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.

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6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire,

and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, the horn chirps two more times to signal the tire learning process has ended. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful

interference.

2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.

The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 417
and Wheel Replacement on page 422 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 462.

416

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 454.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 426.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more

places around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through

the tire’s rubber.

(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or

snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage

that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires.

GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 403 for additional information.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 437.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 319, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle.

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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 418 and Accessories and Modifications on page 341 for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

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Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 426 for more information. Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has P225/55R17 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.

If your vehicle has a tire size other

Notice: than P225/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

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Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 150 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain

in the vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

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The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 100 for

more information.

2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle

has one.

3. Lift the handle on the spare tire cover. The handle may hook on the front edge of the trunk’s weatherstrip to hold the cover out of the way.

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4. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and

remove it.

5. Remove the compact spare tire.

6. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise

and remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench.

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The tools you will need to change a tire include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B), and wheel wrench (C).

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire You vehicle may have wheels with exposed wheel nuts. If so, go to the Removing the Wheel Nuts section. If the vehicle has steel wheel covers with center caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the cap. To remove the wheel cover, do the following:

Removing the Center Cap

1. Remove the center cap by using the flat end of the wheel wrench at the notch on the cap.

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2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the plastic wheel nut caps, if the vehicle has them, in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, finish loosening them by hand. The nut caps will not come off of the wheel cover.

3. Use the flat end of the wheel wrench and pry along the edge of the cover until it comes off. Pull off the wheel cover and set it aside. The edge of the wheel cover could be sharp, so do not try to remove the cover with your bare hands. Do not drop the cap or lay it face down, as it could become scratched or damaged.

If the vehicle has aluminum wheels and wheel center caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the center cap. Remove the center cap by using the flat end of the wheel wrench at the notch. Do not drop the cap or lay it facedown, as it could become scratched or damaged.

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Once you have removed the wheel cover or center cap, use the following procedure to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire.

Removing the Wheel Nuts

1. Place the wheel wrench securely over the wheel nut. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen all the wheel nuts, but do no remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise

the jack lift head.

3. Find the jacking location using the diagram above and corresponding triangular-shaped hoisting notches located on the underside of the vehicle’s plastic molding. The front location is about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well. The rear location is about 9 inches (22.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well.

4. Put the compact spare tire near you.

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the