1996 Buick Century Owners Manual

Luggage Carrier (Option) If you have the optional luggage carrier, you can load things on top of a wagon, or on the deck lid of your vehicle. The luggage carrier has slats attached to the roof, side rails and adjustable crossrails. The crossrails can be adjusted by loosening the screws. After moving the crossrails, be sure to tighten the screws securely. Don’t exceed the maximum vehicle capacity when loading your Buick. For more information on vehicle capacity and loading, see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. To prevent damage or loss of cargo as you’re driving, check now and then to make sure the luggage carrier and cargo are still securely fastened.

NOTICE:

Loading cargo that weighs more than 50 lbs. (23 kg) for the deck lid or 200 lbs. (90kg) for the roof on the luggage carrier may damage your vehicle. When you carry large things, never let them hang over the rear or the sides of your vehicle. Load your cargo so that it rests on the slats and does not scratch or damage the vehicle. Put the cargo against the rear rail of the deck lid carrier and fasten it securely. On the wagon, put the cargo against the side rails of the roof carrier and fasten it securely.

Ashtrays and Lighter Reach under the front edge of the ashtray compartment to open it. To remove the ashtray for cleaning, reach under the ashtray and push up from behind it. To clean the rear ashtrays, fully open the ashtray. Press down on the snuffer as you pull the ashtray down and out.

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1 NOTICE:

Don’t put papers and other things that burn into ashtrays. If you do, cigarettes or other smoking materials could set them on fire, causing damage.

To use the lighter, push it in all the way and let go. When it’s ready, it will pop back by itself.

NOTICE:

Don’t hold a cigarette lighter in with your hand while it is heating. If you do, it won’t be able to back away from the heating element when it’s ready. That can make it overheat, damaging the lighter and the heating element.

Sun Visors To block out glare, you can swmg down the visors. You can also move them from side to side. Lighted Visor Vanity Mirror (Option)

If your vehicle has the optional lighted vanity mirror, the lamps come on when you open the cover. Close the cover to turn out the lamps.

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c

A. B. C. D. E.

Control

Lamp Controls Instrument Panel Brightness Vents Instrument Panel Cluster and Indicator Lamps Audio System Map Reading Lamps

G. Rear Window Defogger Switch H. Glove Box I. Wipermasher Rear Window (Wagon Only) J. Climate Controls K. Parking Brake Release L. Hood Release

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Instrument Panel Cluster

LOW

TRACTION

AIR BAG

TAILGATE

AJAR

Y Y

UNLEADED FUEL ONLY P R N [ D I 3 2 1

1 0

e 20

MPH

:i

TEMPERATURE

APPLY BRAKE TO SHIFT FROM PARK

BRAKE

ANTI - LOCK

LOW OIL

Domestic

Your instrument panel is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You'll know how fast you're going, how much fuel you're using, and many other things you'll need to drive safely and economically.

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LOW

TRACTION

CRUISE

BRAKE

AIR

BAG 0%

TAILGATE

AJAR

P R N O 3 2 0 oIu"onn 4 I n

,---/=

APPLY BRAKE TO SHIFT FROM PARK

Canadian

Speedometer and Odometer Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (kmh). Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers (used in Canada). Your Buick has a “tamper-resistant odometer.” If you can see very noticeable bright silver lines between the numbers, someone has probably tried to turn it back. The numbers may not be true. You may wonder what happens if a vehicle has to have a new odometer installed. If possible, the new one has to be set to the same reading as the old one. If it can’t be, then it’s set at zero, and a label on the driver’s door must show the old reading and when the new one was installed.

Trip Odometer The trip odometer can tell you how many miles you have driven since you last set it to zero. To reset it, push the button on the instrument cluster.

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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them. Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury. Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s hnctions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens. Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle. When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be costly -- and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.

Safety Belt Warning Light When the key is turned to RUN or START a chime will come on for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled.

The safety belt light will also come on and stay on for about 20 seconds, then it will flash for about 55 seconds. If the driver’s belt is already buckled, neither the chime nor the light will come on.

/r\ CAUTION:

1 urour safety belt light ever comes on or stays on after the front doors are closed and the driver’s belt is buckled, have your vehicle fixed. If you don’t, the belt might not work as it should, and you might not have the protection you’d need in a crash.

Air Bag Readiness Light There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system check includes the air bag sensors, the air bag module, the wiring and the diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.

You will see this light flash for a few seconds when you turn your ignition to RUN or START. Then the light should go out. This means the system is ready.

AIR BAG

If the air bag readiness light doesn’t come on when you start your vehicle, or stays on, or comes on when you are driving, your air bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle serviced right away.

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Battery Light

I-+I

The battery warning light is designed to come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working.

Then it should go out. If it stays on, or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have a loose generator drive belt or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery. If you must drive a short distance with the light on, be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.

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Brake System Warning Light Your Buick’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well. If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away. This light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.

BRAKE

If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, or if the anti-lock brake system warning light is flashing, have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” and ‘Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

A CAUTION: - -

Your brake system may not be working properly if the brake system warning light is on. Driving with the brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. If the light is still on or if the anti-lock brake system warning light is flashing after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light

ANTI - LOCK

When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will also come on when you set your parking brake. The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem.

Domestic

~~

Canadian

With the anti-lock brake system, one of these lights will come on when you start your engine and will stay on for three seconds. That’s normal.

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If the light flashes when you’re driving, you don’t have anti-lock brakes and there could be a problem with your regular brakes. Pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. Have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.)

Your regular brake system may not be working properly if the anti-lock brake system warning light is flashing. Driving with the anti-lock brake system warning light flashing can lead to an accident. After you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.

If the anti-lock brake system warning light stays on longer than normal after you’ve started your engine, turn the ignition off. Or, if the light comes on and stays on when you’re driving, stop as soon as possible and turn the ignition off. Then start the engine again to reset the system. If the light still stays on, or comes on again while you’re driving, your Buick needs service. If the light is on but not flashing and the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti-lock brakes. The anti-lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.

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Anti-Lock Brake S

When your anti-lock system is adjusting brake pressure to help avoid a braking skid, the anti-lock brakg system active light will come on.

LOW

TRACTION

Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light

This warning light is designed to tell you that your engine coolant has overheated or your radiator cooling fan is not working.

Slippery road conditions may exist if this light comes on, so adjust your driving accordingly. The light will stay on for a few seconds after the system stops adjusting brake pressure. The anti-lock brake system active light also comes on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be there to tell you when the system is active.

If you have been operating your vehicle under normal driving conditions, you should pull off the road, stop your vehicle and turn the engine off as soon as possible. The section “Problems on the Road,” in this manual explains what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

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Malfunction.Indicator Lamp (Service Engine Soon Light)

SERVICE ENGINE SOON

Domestic

Canadian

Your Buick is equipped with a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission control systems.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gage

II

TEMPERATURE - Z

Domestic

Canadian

If the gage

This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. pointer moves into the red area, your engine is too hot! That reading means the same thing as the warning light. It means that your engine coolant has overheated. If you have been operating your vehicle under normal driving conditions, you should pull off the road, and stop your engine as soon as possible. The section “Problems on the Road,” in this manual explains what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index. 2-54

This light should come on, as a check to show you it is not working, when the ignition is on and the engine is running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired. This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways:

Light Flashing -- A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service is required. Light On Steady -- An emission control system malfunction has been detected on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.

This system is called OBD I1 (On-Board Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to assure of the that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. (In Canada, OBD I1 is replaced by Enhanced Diagnostics.) The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent, which may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.

NOTICE:

If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty.

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If the Light Is Flashing The following may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle:

Reduce vehicle speed. Avoid hard accelerations. Avoid steep uphill grades. If towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.

If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so, stop the vehicle. Put your vehicle in PARK (P). Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your dealer or qualified service center for service.

If the Light Is On Steady You may be able to correct the emission system malfunction by considering the following: Did you just put fuel into your vehicle? If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A few driving trips should turn the light off. Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water? If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off. Are you low on fuel? As your engine starts to run out of fuel, your engine may not run as efficiently as designed since small amounts of air are sucked into the fuel line causing a misfire. The system can detect this. Adding fuel should correct this condition. Make sure to install the fuel cap properly. It will take a few driving trips to turn the light off.

Have you recently changed brands of fuel? If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel (see “Fuel” in the Index). Poor fuel quality will cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.) This will be detected by the system and cause the light to turn on. If you experience this condition, change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off. If none of the above steps have made the light turn off, have your dealer or qualified service center check the vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that may have developed.

Engine Oil Pressure Light

If you have a problem with your oil, this oil pressure warning light may stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving. Stop your vehicle and shut off the engine if this light stays on.

This indicates that oil is not going through your engine quickly enough to keep it lubricated. The engine could be low on oil, or could have some other oil problem. Have your vehicle serviced immediately.

I NOTICE:

Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.

Liftgate Ajar Warning Light (Wagon)

The TAILGATE AJAR reminder light on your instrument panel will come on if your liftgate is not

TAILGATE

AJAR

The oil light could also come on in three other situations: When the ignition is on but the engine is not running, the light will come on as a test to show you it is working, but the light will go out when you turn the ignition to START. If it doesn’t come on with the ignition, you may have a problem with the fuse or a bulb. Have it fixed right away. Sometimes when the engine is idling at a stop, the light may blink on and off. This is normal. If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for a moment. This is normal.

A CAUTION:

Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low. If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned. Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.

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Fuel Gage

Eg

B U N L E A D E D FUEL ONLY

II

Domestic

Canadian

Your fuel gage tells you about how much fuel you have left, when the ignition is on. When the indicator nears EMPTY (E), you still have a little fuel left, but you should get more soon.

Here are four things that some owners ask about. None of these show a problem with your fuel gage and are normal operating characteristics:

At the service station, the gas pump shuts off before the gage reads FULL (F). It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the gage indicated. For example, the gage may have indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took a little more or less than half the tank's capacity to fill the tank. The gage moves a little when you turn a corner, speed up or brake.

0 The gage doesn't go back to EMPTY (E) when you

turn off the ignition.

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NOTES

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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems

In this section you'll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your Buick. Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle. Comfort Controls

With this system, you can control the heating, cooling and ventilation in your vehicle. The system works best if you keep your windows closed while using it. Your vehicle also has a flow-through ventilation system, described later in this section. System Controls Fan Lever The lever next to the fan symb 01 select s the forc 'e of ai you want. To turn the fan off, move the upper lever to the OFF position.

Temperature Lever The lower lever changes the temperature of the air coming through the system.

Mode Lever The upper lever changes the functions of your system.

The upper lever has three air conditioner settings. On very hot days, open the windows long enough to let hot, inside air escape. This reduces the amount of work your air conditioner's compressor will have to do, which should help fuel economy. MAX: Provides maximum cooling with the least amount of work. This setting recirculates much of the air inside your vehicle so it maximizes your air conditioner's performance and fuel economy. NORM: Use for normal cooling on hot days. This setting cools outside air and directs it through the instrument panel outlets. BI-LEV: Use this on cool, but sunny days. This setting brings in the outside air, and directs it in two ways. The cool air is directed to the upper portion of your body through the instrument panel outlets, and warmed air is directed through the heater ducts and defroster vents. At times, this temperature difference may be more apparent than others. The air conditioner compressor operates in all air conditioning positions, and in DEF (defrdst) when the outside temperature is above about 40°F (4.5"C).

3-2

When outside temperatures are cold, sliding the upper lever to HEATER and the lower lever to HOT will send heated air through the heater ducts, and some through the defroster vents. VENT and HEATER are labeled ECONOMY positions because the air conditioner compressor doesn't run in these two settings. This reduces engine load, resulting in improved fuel economy. If either setting fails to keep you comfortable, or causes your windows to fog up, slide the upper lever to one of the air conditioning positions, or to DEF (defrost).

r gii

The DEF setting directs most of the air through the s. defroster vents and some through the heater dl To quickly defog the windshield, set the upper le DEF and move the fan switch to HI. Slide the lower lever to HOT. In damp, cool weather (temperatures about 45"to 65"F, 7 " to 18 " C), you can use BI-LEV to defog the side windows. Set the upper lever to BI-LEV and the fan switch to HI. Aim the side vents toward the side windows, For increased airflow to the side vents, close the center vents.

r to

Rear Window Defogger

Ventilation System

REAR

The rear window defogger uses a warming grid to remove fog from the rear window. In winter, it can also keep ice from forming on the rear window.

Press the ON portion of the switch. The indicator light will glow. The rear window defogger will turn off automatically after about 10 minutes of use. You can also turn it off by turning off the ignition or pressing the OFF portion of the switch.

I NOTICE:

Don’t use a razor blade or something else sharp on the inside of the rear window. If you do, you could cut or damage the warming grid, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

Your Buick’s flow-through ventilation system supplies outside air into the vehicle when it is moving. Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the heater or the air conditioning fan is running. For mild outside temperatures, when little heating or cooling is needed, slide the upper lever to VENT. Airflow is through the instrument panel outlets. Rotate the control next to the outlets to turn on, adjust or turn off the airflow. Adjust the lower lever on the control panel to the temperature desired.

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Ventilation Tips

Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows. When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the blower fan to HI for a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows. Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects. This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.

Audio Systems Your Delco' audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your Delco system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you're getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it. Setting the Clock Press SET. Within five seconds, press and hold SCAN until the correct hour appears. Press and hold SEEK until the correct minute appears.

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AM-FM Stereo

Playing the Radio VOL: Turn the upper knob to turn the radio on and off and to control the volume. RECALL: When the ignition is off, press the upper knob to display the time.

Finding a Station AM-FM: Press the lower knob to select AM or FM. TUNE: Turn the lower knob to choose radio stations. SEEK: Press this button to go to the next higher station and stay there. SCAN: Press this button to hear each station for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. SCAN appears on the display. Press SCAN again to stop scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The four numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 14 stations (seven AM and seven FM). 1. Find the station you want by using TUNE. 2. Press SET. (The SET indicator will appear briefly on

the display.)

3. Press one of the four pushbuttons, within five

seconds. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.

4. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.

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In addition to the four stations set as above, up to three additional stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Just: 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Press SET. (The SET indicator will appear on

the display.)

3. Press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same

time (within five seconds).

4. Whenever you press the same buttons, the station

you set will return.

Setting the Tone BASS: Slide this lever up to increase bass and down to decrease it. TREBLE: Slide this lever up to increase treble and down to decrease it. If a station is weak or noisy, slide the lever down to reduce the noise.

Adjusting the Speakers BAL: This control behind the upper knob adjusts the sound between the right and left speakers. FADE: This control behind the lower knob adjusts the sound between your front and rear speakers.

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AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player (Option)

Playing the Radio VOL: Turn the upper knob to turn the radio on and off and control the volume. When the ignition is off, press the knob to display the time.

Finding a Station AM-FM: Press the lower knob to select AM or FM. TUNE: Turn the lower knob to choose radio stations. SEEK: Press this button to go to the next higher station and stay there.

SCAN: Press this button to hear each station for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. SCAN appears on the display. Press SCAN again to stop scanning. PUSHBUTTONS: The four numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to 14 stations (seven AM and seven FM). 1. Find the station you want by using TUNE. 2. Press SET. (The SET indicator will appear briefly on

the display.)

3. Press one of the four pushbuttons, within five

seconds. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.

4. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton. In addition to the four stations set as above, up to three additional stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Just: 1. Tune in the desired station. 2. Press SET. (The SET indicator will appear on the

display.)

3. Press any two adjoining pushbuttons at the same

time (within five seconds).

4. Whenever you press the same buttons, the station

you set will return.

Setting the Tone BASS: Slide this lever up to increase bass and down to decrease it. TREBLE: Slide this lever up to increase treble and down to decrease it. If a station is weak or noisy, slide the lever down to reduce the noise. Adjusting the Speakers BAL: This control behind the upper knob adjusts the sound between the right and left speakers. FADE: This control behind the lower knob adjusts the sound between your front and rear speakers. Playing a Cassette Tape Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. While the tape is playing, use the VOL, FADE, BAL, TREBLE and BASS controls just as you do for the radio. The display will show an arrow to show which side of the tape is playing. When the right indicator arrow is lit, selections listed on the bottom side of the cassette are playing. When the left arrow is lit, selections listed on the top side of the cassette are playing. The tape player automatically begins playing the other side when it reaches the end of the tape.

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FORWARD: Press the right arrow to rapidly advance the tape. It will continue forwarding until you press STOP-EJECT lightly. REVERSE: Press the left arrow to rapidly reverse the tape. It will continue reversing until you press STOP-EJECT lightly. PROG-RCL: Press the upper knob while a cassette tape is playing to hear the other side of the tape. STOP-EJECT Press this button to remove the tape or stop playing the tape and switch to the radio. Understanding Radio Reception FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound. But FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.

AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it. Tips About Your Audio System Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it. To help avoid hearing loss or damage: 0 Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting. 0 Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably

and clearly.

NOTICE: Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delco radio or other systems, and even damage them. Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly. So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.

Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and

extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. Cleaning may be done with a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. It is normal for the cassette to eject while cleaning. Insert the cassette at least three times to ensure thorough cleaning. A scrubbing action cleaning cassette is available through your Buick dealer. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject. It may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure that the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the fender. Power Antenna Mast Care Your power antenna will look its best and work well if it’s cleaned from time to time. To clean the antenna mast: 1. 2.

Turn on the ignition and radio to raise the antenna. Dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits or equivalent solvent. Wipe the cloth over the mast sections, removing any dirt. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. Make the antenna go up and down by turning the radio or ignition off and on. Repeat if necessary.

3.

4. 5.

6.

3-10

I NOTICE:

Don’t lubricate the power antenna. Lubrication could damage it.

NOTICE:

Before entering an automatic car wash, turn off your radio to make the power antenna go down. This will prevent the mast from possibly getting damaged. If the antenna does not go down when

i you turn the radio off, it may be damaged or need to be cleaned. In either case, lower the antenna by hand by carefully pressing the antenna down.

If the mast portion of your antenna is damaged, you can easily replace it. See your dealer for a replacement kit and follow the instructions in the kit.

NOTES

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NOTES

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Section 4 Your Driving and the Ra d

Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your Buick: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.) Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

~

Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national Itragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims , every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

The obvious way to solve this highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

Judgment Muscular Coordination

0 Vision 0 Attentiveness. Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, some 18,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 2 1 , it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.

The amount of alcohol consumed The drinker’s body weight

0 The amount of food that is consumed before and

during drinking

0 The length of time it has taken the drinker to

consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a 180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1- 1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

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woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks. The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!

It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a

A CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount

of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking.

Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

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ktrol of a Vehicle

You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

BraE Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.

ANTI - LOCK

Domestic

Canadian

If there’s a problem with the anti-lock brake system, this warning light will stay on or flash. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels.

You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes.

Using Anti-Lock Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the system working, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal.

Braking in Emergencies Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.’ .

When your anti-lock system is adjusting brake pressure to help avoid a braking skid, this light will come on. See “Anti-Lock Brake System Active Light” in the Index.

LOW

TRACTION

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Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. H lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, YOU'^^ understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

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Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and fmd a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering .around the problem. Your Buick can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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0 Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance. When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

0 Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

0 Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your Buick’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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;ion

Uight No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going f a t enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.

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Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine‘s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.

0 Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: 0 Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. 0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross mo st large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic

light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles tha t have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

reeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

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The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going s1owe.r than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Wclsher Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Larnps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you ! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: 0 Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a

comfortably cool interior.

0 Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to

the sides, Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently.

0 If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. 0 Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

A CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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W* kter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your Buick in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these item in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet

ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You're Caught in a Blizzaru

Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard flashers.

0 Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you've been stopped by the snow.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see !it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking ‘your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your erigine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

FRT. CTR.

RR.

TOTAL

LBS.

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY WEIGHT

XXX

SPEED RTG

TIRE COLD PRESSURE PSI/KPa

TIRE SIZE

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PS1/28KPa SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options.

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP DATE GVWR

GAWR FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT O N THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE.

The other label, is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 160 lbs. (72 kg) in the sedan trunk or 300 lbs. (136 kg) in the wagon rear area.

Note: If for some reason the driver’s door becomes damaged and needs to be replaced, ask that the information on the Tire-Loading Information label and the Certification label be written down so you may keep it on file.

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else -- they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside your vehiclexan strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the trunk or rear area of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like: suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

0 Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can. Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

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lg a Trailer A CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your Buick dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Buick dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Do not tow a trailer if your vehicle is equipped with a 2.2L (VIN Code 4) engine. Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the 3.1L V6 (VTN Code M) engine and proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: e There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 kmh) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (88 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Weight of the Trailer Your vehicle can tow normally up to 1,000 lbs. (450 kg). If your vehicle has a 3.1 L V6 engine with a four-speed automatic transaxle and is equipped with the optional heavy-duty engine cooling system, it can tow up to 2,000 lbs. (900 kg). It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

Buick Motor Division Customer Assistance Center 902 E. Hamilton Ave. Flint, MI 48550 In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (€3). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too. The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns

I NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your Buick dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) and you have an automatic transaxle with overdrive, you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3) instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (@I). An overdrive transmission is required if towing a trailer more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg).

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Parking on Hills You really should not parK your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then, apply your

parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

4-

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: m Start your engine; 0 Shift into a gear; and

Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.