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 Holden 202 6 Cylinder Build - brisbane southside  

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McGnarly
  • McGnarly
  • DR. DOUCHEBAG
  • Member No.: 155,215
  • Joined: 11-January 09
  • Posts: 2,583
Post #1 post 11th July 2010 - 09:51 PM
Hey guys i want to build up my 202 in my old holden,

Any recommendations of mechanics on Brisbane southside who are good with these motors?

Or if anyone knows anybody with parts/engines to help out, that would be great, im currently running a red, but if someone has a built black motor to go straight in I have cash waiting for them!

Im looking to spend $1,500 on building it up a bit…

Any help would be good help

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Post #2

QUOTE (McGnarly @ Jul 12 2010, 03:51 PM) *
Hey guys i want to build up my 202 in my old holden,

Any recommendations of mechanics on Brisbane southside who are good with these motors?

Or if anyone knows anybody with parts/engines to help out, that would be great, im currently running a red, but if someone has a built black motor to go straight in I have cash waiting for them!

Im looking to spend $1,500 on building it up a bit…

Any help would be good help



JW Automotive 0438003151 speak to Justin he built my XU1 engine as well as my VL RB30

DAN-O
Post #3

Cragar Performance Automotive
Unit 2, 7-9 Tradelink Rd, HILLCREST, QLD, 4118 (07) 3800 1958

I had them build my bulletproof 224cui stroker Holden 6 motor and driveline and it performed as it should every time.

WOSSiiE
Post #4

QUOTE (DAN-O @ Jul 12 2010, 05:01 PM) *
Cragar Performance Automotive
Unit 2, 7-9 Tradelink Rd, HILLCREST, QLD, 4118 (07) 3800 1958

I had them build my bulletproof 224cui stroker Holden 6 motor and driveline and it performed as it should every time.


i had them do most of my work on my 202 seemed alright but working a 202 is dollars like any engine bro

wbtonner
Post #5

Whats it going in and what do you expect/ want from it?
UMR Engines -32080017- in Moss st are really good. I get all my machining done through those guys, ask for Lindsay.
For parts, I buy all mine from either Race car engineering or Performance wholesale.
With 1500 to spend; If you want to go fast, i'd be looking into getting a high compression and highly ported head with big valves (Yella Terra would be perfect) and some decent carbies (Twin strombergs are relatively cheap compared to tripple webers/ SU's etc and do a great job compared to 350 Holley etc.) 30/70 hydraulic cam and the rest should hold together with a hone and new bearings and rings. Stock oil and fuel pump will hold up but electric fuel pumps help with fine tuning with a constant pressure. A set of flat tops and star fire rods wouldn't hurt either.
With my build I went in the other direction. I wanted it to be a lil bit toey but also sound off its gutz. I'm going BIG solid cam and lifters, 173 high comp head with a bt of porting and bigger valves, SBC valve springs and rocker studs, YT roller rockers, hardened pushrods, straight cut adjustable timing gears, new bearings throughout and a new 350 Holley and probably a few other things that i've forgotten. Have spent an easy 2k this build. Should be finished this week, have been saying that for about a month though. ohnoes.gif
I've got my old head off a 186s motor. Its been decked alot for high comp (around 155-160 psi pretty sure) and has YT double valve springs. I used it on my first engine for just over 5000k's which was tuned rich for run in so it has a bit of carbon build up on it. With run in tune made 99rwhp with stage 1 cam and used to rev its head off. Pm me if your interested, comes with chrome rocker cover. Also have a New crow cam stage 1 cam, with lifters and pushrods to suit.
Also, Paul Geary from Paul Geary automotive is a GREAT engine builder who knows everything about the old sixes but he is VERY pricey, but you get what you pay for.

FATTIE
Post #6

the old 202 hey....

WBTonner has got the info you need, the only thing i would change would be to use a webber carbie off a XF falcon, what ever manifold you end up with you can get a redline adapter to suit. these give excellent results for fuel economy and performance , these will perform better in the low to mid range than a holley(where most of your driving is)

your $1500 budget is tight, but acheivable, labour costs will be your killer.

i have been rebuilding 202's at home for 20 years now and have screwed together some very tuff motors and many stocko's.

for $1500 you might want to do a bit of the work yourself.

or if your 202 is ok and not blowing smoke maybee consider a bit of a tidy up with a new cam,head, lifters, carby and extractors.

happy to help if you need more info

fingerbanger
Post #7

You might want to consider stretching your budget a little further mate. All the best with it though.

wbtonner
Post #8

Mines now running and on the road. Word of warning, do not go a 50/90 solid cam. Driveability 0, looking like you can't drive for shit having to rev the shit outta it and feather the clutch, not as tough as what i'd had in mind.

fingerbanger
Post #9

QUOTE (wbtonner @ Jul 13 2010, 09:51 PM) *
Mines now running and on the road. Word of warning, do not go a 50/90 solid cam. Driveability 0, looking like you can't drive for shit having to rev the shit outta it and feather the clutch, not as tough as what i'd had in mind.


I was warned about puting a big cam in mine when it was built. It's a mild Hydraulic with a powerglide / 2500 stall. Slowish off the line but boogies after that. I can sit on 80-100 and drop it back to first and the front picks up and she goes from there.

FATTIE
Post #10

big cams on the road,,,, bad

when you build a motor you have to be realistic about it.

if your going to drive it around town, go shopping and spend 99% of your time cruising, just get a nice basic cam with a bit of a bump.

crow cams make a cam numbered 35666, ive used a couple now , they have a nice note, boggie along but are still ok low down to tow a trailer if needed.

Any higher than that you have to think about roller rockers and higher end valve gear

missin_nissan
Post #11

some info for building tuff 6's

http://www.bur.st/~oljohnno/holden.html

wbtonner
Post #12

QUOTE (FATTIE @ Jul 14 2010, 11:28 AM) *
big cams on the road,,,, bad

when you build a motor you have to be realistic about it.

if your going to drive it around town, go shopping and spend 99% of your time cruising, just get a nice basic cam with a bit of a bump.

crow cams make a cam numbered 35666, ive used a couple now , they have a nice note, boggie along but are still ok low down to tow a trailer if needed.

Any higher than that you have to think about roller rockers and higher end valve gear


Just a cruiser for the weekends, luckily, cam only comes in at like 3-3500 rpm eek3.gif . Yeah, my motor's got all the good bits to help it out haha. With just a a 2 1/4" exhaust and basic sports muffler, it's bloody loud, easily enough to get me into trouble... especially on P plates.

vhrb30t
Post #13

My old motor is for sale. Done a few k's now. But probably only needs a new set of bearings. Was fully forged bottem end 12:1 comp. yt roller rockers , 12 port alloy head flowed to 340hp with stainless valves, o'ringed block custom solid roller cam. Engine was dynoed at HEADSENSE in brisbane making 306fwhp n/a with tripple 2in SU's. Motor ran a 12.64 at 107 MPH at willowbank in a VB commodore. Was a big dollar motor but i know its going cheap will only need a freshen up. Pm if your keen

wbtonner
Post #14

Flowed to 340 hp huh.gif Suppose it is the alloy head. And shit thats quick!

vhrb30t
Post #15

yeah flowed 340hp. but that was with a shit load of porting and alot of r&d. If i rememeber correctly. I'm a mechanic and the motor cost me about 8-9k. Dyno papers to prove. And would rev to 7.5 -8k all day everyday. Awesome motor for someone wanting some seroius n/a 202 power cheap. PM me if keen. I'm done with 202's now rb 26/30 is the go

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