1998 Holden Commodore VT (Clubsport Replica)  

pvk308

im using a standard 308 crank and a9l rods mate runs an 11.1 on et streets 10.98 on slicks gets driven daily, when not having mods done to it and runs on 98 ron

bradzhsv

thanks for that info mate, im learning the hard way everything i do lol, lucky i enjoy it i guess, (cant say the same for the misses lol) its a 540/551 i cant remember the duration of at 50 deg but i can find out if need be,do u think i should get a smaller stally? would that help an spewin man i should have kept the old set up but its all good because i spose with the stock bottom end restricting it isnt all bad. how do u think she'l go with the cam mate?

bradzhsv

an also i would have sh!t it in if i had 215 profile, ive got 235 atm

11SLI

LOL a 215 profile on an apparent 10.5in rim? sorry mate but you're flogging the skin off it!
Even if you had a 235 on it atm, it would look stretched as all funk!

bradzhsv

did u see the pics mate, where do u live ill drive it round an show ya, what do u mean stretched as funk?

Joyrid3r

That'd be quite the round trip

bradzhsv

that msg wasnt to u joyrider

Joyrid3r

I realise that, I'm a shitload closer to you than 11SLI is.

bradzhsv

i didnt even check if i could find out when i wrote it lol, did u check the pics mate, see why i hadnt shown them at the time?

pvk308

mate if you can get me all the specs for the cam that would be great then i can tell you what stall roughly.........Im guessing that stall would be just about right if its the cam im thinking it is and you would be or should be running 3.9 diff gears for it as well........ so if that is the case the manifold should really go as you will have a car thats quite lively all the way up to 5500 and then it will just die off and run out of legs so to speak not cool on the track or street if your racing as most cars will just wave at you as theyre going by ....... just let me know the cam specs and the diff gear size and can help you out from there

bradzhsv

sweet mate cheers, i just got rid of my 3.9 diff aswell lol, the car came with them, but but i got my hands on 3.7 diff witch from what i was told the ducks guts cause of all the work done to it, ill ring the place i got the cam from today sometime an get another copy of cam card, just for knowledge sake how do u choose a stall to suit a cam, thats interesting to know, i just thought as long as u had a stally with a cam ya sweet. have a good 1 mate ill send it all soon,thanks alot cheers

pvk308

stall converter size should really be done with the engine on an engine dyno where you can obtain both peak hp at a given rpm and peak torque at a given rpm as an example mine is 485 at 6800 for peak hp and 375ft/lb of torque ( cant remeber properly the figure) at 4850 rpm so there for my converter is a 4850 race converter........ there are also different size stalls ie most are 10-12 in in circumfrence however the higher the stall you go the smaller they get mine is currently an 8 in and smallest you can go.......... the cam chart you get should have an operational rpm base and limit eg work from 3600-6600 so depending on where the car makes peak torque in between those figures is where the stall size should be..... once i know what the cam chart is i can give youa rough idea.......

3.7 aren't to bad depending on tyre size etc etc it should drop back to a 3.55 gear ratio as a final gearing hence why i was wondering if you were going 3.9 as they would drop back to 3.7 and be ideal for both street and race

everything needs to match motor ie cam manifold heads compression etc etc then gearbox and stall size, diff gears and tyre size have anything that is out eg a motor making 500 hp with the right stall cvonverter and having 2.72 diff gears and expecyting it to run an 11 sec pass is like pissing in the wind a dissapointment and will not behave like you expect, have it match and all goes well

bradzhsv

cheers mate that breaks it bown alot,
my cam spec are
hyd roller vn cam
522' 537

intake 574
exhaust 590
lobe centre 107
duration at 50 is 240 251
gross lift
intake 348
exhaust 358

ill bet my 20 inch wheels wont help then, lol,i just pulled my auto trans sump off to check it an all the oil stinks of burnt oil lol it never ends, now im chasing up another 1, spewen its ment to be fully manualised but but i have given it abit of a floggin, thanks heaps man its hard trying to find all this out on utube, im only self tought an havin go aye. gettin there but thanks to blokes like yaself, cheers man catch ya soon

pvk308

Did it give you a rpm operatng field eg 3200-6800 looking at that im thinking the 3800 would be ok and 400' s are a tough box mate just get her rebuilt and put some good oil in it whilst its there get some one to go through it and make sure its shift kitted for full manulal and throw some extra frictions and steels in and dont look back

bradzhsv

thanks for the info mate again mate, i herd the same thing tonight from 1 of my neighbours, well the part about the t400 being a tuff box, ill look into that, hopefully there isnt too much to repair, theres no metal shavings in there and i seen the filter it looks clogged an the sh!t on the bottom of the sump is pretty thick considering thats where it sucks the oil up from. after its all finished an running well for a couple of years then ill be ripping everything out and tidying it right up an spraying everything an 1 day give it to my son., geez your engine bay looks mint mate, one look at that and to know u built it, even an idiot would know that u know your stuff.lol after the box and a good tune mate ill be moving too quick to look back, hopefully lol. 1 more question, the cam specs i gave u, thats a pretty big cam yeah? when i bought it they told me it was but now i realise they could have sold me anything,lol, its loud an lumpy when i start it but iv barely got mufflers on it lol, whats your overal on the cam please mate an also some1 told me that a 3800 stall is only a little stally an u say my cam is good for that stally so i am wondering if my cam is a little cam two?

pvk308

nah that cam is alright mate and it suits nicley with the motor ....the stall is a little small but what you need to remember is if your car is a daily driver then having a stall above eg 4200 is not going to be really street friendly the car wont come alive fully after 4200 and it will be a nuisnance down low and will be more race frindly ( trust me i know mate im speaking from experince with my vk) if you go the complete oppiste and have a stall at say 2800 the car will be nice on the street and be a like a stock car but get it on the track and its running out of legs right when you neeed it the most so not the best for racing. The 3800 stall would be a comprimise it gives you the best of both worlds both race and street it has enough in it for street use and will be quite good and it also gives you afighting chnace on the strip as well so its not that bad mate... as i said the best way to get the right stall is as stated above but if thats the case then you really need to make a choice as to whether or not you want a full race car or a street car ,if you want full race the you need to set the car up accordingly to get the ebst out of it or if you want street then head that way i learnt long ago that you can have both but you will always be looking for more in either field....... my vk is purley strip but does see street use its not a cheap car to run on the street and can be a very big handfull but thats the choice i made i went full strip.......... food for thought mate

bradzhsv

sh!t yeah man, that woyld be the life having 2 self built weapons to choose from youv definatly done the rounds mate, so thats all it is about with a stall, so do they all pretty much do the same thing it just depends on where u want to have power? have u evr considered running a manual? i like stally cause im a lazy driver an hate traffic enough in an auto yet alone a manual, i was thinkin of a force fed build but after hearing that, i could still build something differant an still have it n/a, ive herd about 500 rwhp in an n/a 308, built by a super car driver i think his name was perkins an he apperantly kept the bannana manifold, he cut it in half an bored it out then welded it back together. would have been a hell of a job but rear wheel power out of something that looks stock, theres somethin about that witch comes across as tuff as funk, have u ever force fed a 304 mate or seen 1?

pvk308

No stall converters are a whole new world they can be built differently for different pupose and applications so they need to be matched to the whole package eg motor gearbox diff and intended use.... I am currently running a full manual t350 in my vk ie have to shift up and down but with out a clutch ie P, R, N, 3, 2, 1 same goes for the transbrake t350 that is going in the car but it has a reverse pattern shift ie P, R, N, 1, 2, 3...... Forced induction ie turbo supercharged blower are a whole new game and require alot more thought in regards to engine preperation and building i havenet heard of that sort of motor but i wouldnt be surprised if it was done.... I have never driven a force fed car but have been in heaps.... i also have helped build a couple for mates my brother and i are currently looking at a twin tubo set up for an ls1 to go in his vl ......... once yuou have power you always want more you just have to know when enough is enough

bradzhsv

funkin ouf, mine still has drive so it wouldnt sirprise me if it wasnt full manual plus i found out it isnt a t400 and long story short i got funked but ill get the last laugh so im not worried about the bloke for know, im spewen i thrashed the gear box thinking it was un breakable, lol, but i had it on the hoist today and replaced all the solenids, filter an new oil after that the engine light went off, it isnt tuned and mid range the response is awesome so i cant wait to have it tuned an feel it all the way through rpm but while there i had it on the diagnostics and it sez something about the converter clutch is buggered an that with the solnoid p[roblem must have been stopping it completely, i think the stally is buggered man im spewen but atleast it isnt the gearbox, and i did some checking and the fact that i have problems with shift changing through the the gears is appaerntly the gear box electrics are to suit a vs and i should have swapped all the electrics out of my vt box an put them into the vs box so it knows when to shift or pressures or something like that, does that make sense to u mate, an the bloke that is going to come out an tune it sez he can change the shiift spots an line pressure so ill get him to sort it out when he tunes it.hopefully all works out ill soon find out, with your ls1 twin turbo, i think there comp is stock 10.1 that'll be fun, will u get special heads made up or try use a metalk sort of spacer, twin turbed ls1 would crack mate, that sounds like a fun build, would u ever try twin charge 1 mate?whats ya thought on that a twincharge, on paper its perfect form of force feeding but iv seen the engine bay of a vl twin charged and geez its alot of metal fabrication but sh!t it went.

pvk308

If your replacing solonoids and it is computor operated it will be 4l60e gearbox not a 400 and it will be a 4 speed.. Whilst the guy is right and the shift points can be altered and line pressure upped it will never be a full manual gearbox and you will have to drive it in drive.. the 4l60e doesnt like to be thrashed to much and to get them to handle some serious hp is going to cost a fair bit of money mate its going to need extra frictions and steels plus some line pressure solonoids to cope with the extra line pressure and harder shifts that you wnat out of it....... if you do want full manual with out a computor shifting the gearbox for you a t700 out of a vn-vp would be ok as it is still a 4 speed and they can be modified well but if you want a 3 speed you will need to go to a t400 or 350................. If you have given it that much of hard time it would be wise to get some one to look at the converter ie clean it out split it which will let you know what is exacttly wronf with it plus the size of the stall

As for the ls1 therer will be nothing special we will just limit the boost drop the piston down the bore a little further and use the standard heads but ported etc to handle the boost nothing much

bradzhsv

[quote name='pvk308' date='May 30 2012, 07:40 AM' post='1288369289']
If your replacing solonoids and it is computor operated it will be 4l60e gearbox not a 400 and it will be a 4 speed.. Whilst the guy is right and the shift points can be altered and line pressure upped it will never be a full manual gearbox and you will have to drive it in drive.. the 4l60e doesnt like to be thrashed to much and to get them to handle some serious hp is going to cost a fair bit of money mate its going to need extra frictions and steels plus some line pressure solonoids to cope with the extra line pressure and harder shifts that you wnat out of it....... if you do want full manual with out a computor shifting the gearbox for you a t700 out of a vn-vp would be ok as it is still a 4 speed and they can be modified well but if you want a 3 speed you will need to go to a t400 or 350................. If you have given it that much of hard time it would be wise to get some one to look at the converter ie clean it out split it which will let you know what is exacttly wronf with it plus the size of the stall

As for the ls1 therer will be nothing special we will just limit the boost drop the piston down the bore a little further and use the standard heads but ported etc to handle the boost nothing much
[/quote} cool, im learning heaps from u mate. im just goner look around for a t700 then it shouldnt take me long to get mi hands on 1. I never realised that an yet its soo obvious in dropping the comp that way. nice, well after finding out about my gear box an being buggereed around on it, i did some asking around an found out that the bloke the 1 i got my box from just bought a stat write off of a vy ls1 1 tonner witch was tagged at the back an bent the chassis a little but still drove so box an engine are mickey mouse an guards are sweet apart from a couple its only the leaf springs that are really finshed and the drivers door so i helped miself an he was happy to help considering the situation an while bringin it home i read the odometer an its only done 90k, cheering, id put the lot in my car but mines the last holden roller engine so im not goner that'll be stupid cause im thinking min e might be worth money 1 day cause of the last model to come out with that engine, but thats not why i do it its just iv herd heaps of mates from back in the day kickin themslves because of jus say toranas were a dime a dozen then an know there worth a fortune an so many people have gottin rid of them for dirt cheap compaired to what they go for know. what do u think i should and what would be an easy conversion for the ls1 mate

pvk308

honsetly mate the ls would be the way to go throw a cam in them with some head work and make a truck load more hp than the holden will for less money as an example my 308 cost me 14000k minus stall converter which in total set me back 16000 im currently looking at doing a 355 which should make hopefuly on 600 hp if not some more and thats close to 20000 as for my brother ls1 its getting twin turbos a rebuild and probaly a front mount should make 700hp easy and so far its about 14500k go figure mate if you can get an ls1 go for it mate....... however i do understand the love for a holden motor and you do have a roller block already which helps your call mate

bradzhsv

do u know if it would bolt straight in to the vt? the vt also cam out with the ls1 so it might bolt straigt in not sur though, id prob have no hisitation if the box was manual but its auto, so its still in the air..... yeah i herd that before, i spose the ls1 is alredy a 350 ci with alloy heads so thats a big step up, see what happens.cheers mate

pvk308

im pretty sure its just a chnage of engine mounts plus all the other bits and peices as well

bradzhsv

does a change of engine mounts mean chopping an welding or use the mounts out of the vy, sorry but im not sure what u mean?

pvk308

you should be able to use the mounts out of the vy you just need to make sure the k frames are the same

bradzhsv

good news mate i got my hands on a second hand stally an drives really well but im going to ls1 the vt because of the daily driver reason an realiabillity,but im going to start a new 304 build an organising a vr shell, slowly slowly brother u know how it is, cant put a price on fun aye. have a good 1 man