Overheating 13b... - Even in 5 degree brisbane heat  

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Post #1 post 21st June 2007 - 03:28 AM
Hey everyone..

I have a 6 port 13b rotor that is over heating... at first It hought it was a problem with thermo wiring, but now the thermo's are wired so that they run while the ignition is on...not just at a certain temp.

The top hose is boiling hot... the bottom hose is hot..but ok to touch... I'm guessing that this is because the radiator has cooled the water..lol. facesjump.gif

am I running into a simple problem with a simple fix like a new radiator cap or a thermostat? or is it sounding like its something more severe...like a water pump?


help please!


edit... btw... I have the dash temp guage and a aftermarket one... *dont know why...it was like that when i bought it* the one in the dash says temps are ok...but the AM one says that its getting too hot... I've never let it get into the red... I pull over before it gets too scary.

Oh... and its my first rotor... thats why I am asking seemingly stupid questions. I've always had piston motors and so far have never had an overheating problem... which is why I cant figure this bastard out...

This post has been edited by smiley: Jun 21 2007, 03:16 PM

--------------------
QUOTE (VersionR @ Aug 10 2012, 04:09 PM) *
Why didnt you just get Paden to do it if he did everything else?

QUOTE (julio_vasquez @ Aug 10 2012, 04:13 PM) *
Simple, Paden was Laden with his fair maiden who was shaden under a coolabah tree..


:lol:
metalhead
Post #2

Umm... How hot is it getting? Do you have a water temp gauge? It is normal the top hose to the radiator to be very hot to the touch, after all, the normal operating temperature is between about 80-100 degrees celcius, so unless you have a gauge then you don't know if it's too hot at all.

Ok, assuming you do have a gauge and it is reaching above 100 degrees and still rising, have you checked the coolant level?



Hang on, I've just seen your edit. How hot is it getting on the aftermarket gauge? If it's in the normal range on the standard gauge, and the standard gauge is working (it changes with heat etc) then it may well be fine. Also, if it is getting very hot on the aftermarket gauge, is it a quality gauge or some ebay crap? And does it have its own correct temperature sensor installed or have they just jumpered the wires from the original temperature sensor (which would not be calibrated to the gauge). Don't stress out just yet - you may not have an overheating problem at all.

smiley
Post #3

the guage appears to be a supercheap guage... like..with its own little L shapedsteel holder...

its in farenhiet and its getting to about 220-250 which is just over 100 deg cel isnt it?

By the time it gets that high I just pull over.

the dash guage moves when the car gets hotter but doesnt go much above mid way...still well inside the operating temp...

when it first happened it needed coolant... about a litre top up was needed... but it still gets 'hot' judging by the AM farenheit guage.

the coolant is fine...green and clean looking so I dont think any gaskets or seals are blown...

maybe it needs a performance head and metal head gasket??!!? full rebuild with forged pistons... hahaha

seriously though... Help!!! lol

metalhead
Post #4

So was it fine before and it's only just started doing it? Or has it started doing it since you bought it? Given that the standard gauge is still reading fine I'd be leaning towards it being an incorrect reading. By the the way, if it ever approached 250 and that gauge is correct that's way too hot. 210F is ~100C and is where I'd start getting a bit concerned and if it didn't go down pull over ASAP. 250F is more like 120C.

Does it do it every time the car is run?

Only when sitting in traffic or idling and fine on the open road? Or the other way around? Or all the time, regardless of conditions?

Do you have another gauge you could hook up to test it's accuracy?

Does it just continue heating up from cold to overheated, or does it stay at normal temperatures for a while and then start rising again?

Any chance of following the wiring and checking whether the gauge has its own dedicated sensor?

Have you spoken to the previous owner about whether the gauge normall read that high?

Finally, have you checked the coolant level again to make sure it isn't low again? I assume so, but it's worth checking.

smiley
Post #5

perhaps it could just be cos the vehicle that the motor is in doesnt feed enough air throught hte radiator... the radiator is in a bit of an angle... and may have too much shit in the way of it... bumper bar, bull bar etc... might have to cut some holes in the bumper to feed some more air into it???

RX4_guy
Post #6

200f is roughly operational temp and only at about 230f would i be getting worried

Personally I would believe the factory gauge over the supercheap one smile.gif

But!! ...

I take it its still NA, you haven't turboed it and stuck a front mount in front of the Rad? haven't removed any of the ducting/shielding ?

Take it to a Rad place if your concerned and get them to check over anything, if no worries their get them to go a exhaust gas test to your coolant (as you could of done a water seal)

blacky83
Post #7

Get a decent thermometer and get an actual temp reading for it. One of the guages is obviously wrong, and you're assuming its the original one. But it could be the other way round. So get a third reading, and hopefully it'll agree with one of them.
Then, if it's overheating you can look for the reason.

smiley
Post #8

QUOTE(metalhead @ Jun 22 2007, 10:44 AM) [snapback]1281177782[/snapback]

So was it fine before and it's only just started doing it? Or has it started doing it since you bought it? Given that the standard gauge is still reading fine I'd be leaning towards it being an incorrect reading. By the the way, if it ever approached 250 and that gauge is correct that's way too hot. 210F is ~100C and is where I'd start getting a bit concerned and if it didn't go down pull over ASAP. 250F is more like 120C.

Does it do it every time the car is run?

Only when sitting in traffic or idling and fine on the open road? Or the other way around? Or all the time, regardless of conditions?

Do you have another gauge you could hook up to test it's accuracy?

Does it just continue heating up from cold to overheated, or does it stay at normal temperatures for a while and then start rising again?

Any chance of following the wiring and checking whether the gauge has its own dedicated sensor?

Have you spoken to the previous owner about whether the gauge normall read that high?

Finally, have you checked the coolant level again to make sure it isn't low again? I assume so, but it's worth checking.



IT gets hot when I'm sitting still... which is why I thought it was the fans at first... it warms up... when its warm I start driving... its fine untill either I put my foot down a few times or i end up slowing down/stop at lights. then it starts to get hot. Previous owner said that he had always thought it was a problem withthe thermo's...

My parents used to have the same car when we first moved here and my old boy reckons even the stock motor was bad for over heating... he said it could be cos there isnt enough airflow. The plasctic air deflector things have all been taken out of my one.

Its still NA... Carby... the only other thing near the radiator is the oil cooler... but its under the rad. not infront.

I've checked the coolant again. its still fine. green. 'll check for the wiring of the temp guage when I get home. I'm at work today and I drove my soarer.

the hottest its ever gotten was about 230f thats when I pulled over and turned it off. then went and had a burger and a drink. then got back in and drove home.

smiley
Post #9

QUOTE(RX4_guy @ Jun 22 2007, 01:33 PM) [snapback]1281178270[/snapback]



Personally I would believe the factory gauge over the supercheap one smile.gif





the factory guage is factory to the original vehicle...... which part is the bit that needs to suit the motor? the sender or the guage?

the sender is an rx4 item but the guage is a toyota one which only reads C--|------------|--H ... and an AM supercheap one in farenheit

RX4_guy
Post #10

Didnt even think about being in a toyota until I seen a pic in another thread sad.gif

Did they change the Rad with this conversion?.

Long story shorts its either the rad and oil cooler prob (note oil cooling is a big part or a rotary) or the motor has had it.

To rule out the motor as I said above take it to a radiator place and get them to do a CO test of the coolant (exhaust gas) if they ask more than $20 tell em to shove it wink.gif

If you are going to change the thermostat Use only genuine mazda end of story


Wish i could help more but it could be alot of things, you just have to narrow it down smile.gif

smiley
Post #11

motor is shot...

When you rev the motor without the cap on it empies the radiator...

That seal around the rotor housing is GOOOOOOONE!

I had a mate of a mate look at it who knows rotors inside and out.

Its fucked... it has a RX Radiator and Big oil cooler.

Thatnks for the help everyone!! unfortunatly the problem was worse than i was hoping.

bandit_corolla
Post #12

make sure your radiator fan is working. alot of people actually ignore that...

BJ BRIAN

smiley
Post #13

Yeah mate... Radiator fans were working fine... blowing air the right direction. lol


Its the water seals. motor = fucked
Me = Ripped off.

New motor = Funny tarago again.

metalhead
Post #14

Tarago? Interesting...

Anyway, that's a bummer mate, I was assuming that the gauge was original to the motor. The reason I asked about coolant levels was I was concerned it could have been a water seal. I assume there aren't any leaks that you can see (always hopeful...)

Bad luck mate. Having bought a rotary with a supposedly good engine that was fucked myself, I know the feeling. I bought the car at the start of last year and it's still a fair way from seeing the road, but that's ok because it was a good excuse to rebuild it bigger and better than ever. Chuck a 13bt in it mate and then you'll really be moving.

smiley
Post #15

I wanted to go 13bt but when chatting to the mod plate guy he said that I'm balancing on legalities now so NA is the only way to go without getting into trouble... BUT..he did say that whateve I do AFTER I see him is my own business. lol.

I'm looking into a big mean ported motor now. My mate has a 13b in a mazda 1300 that has done 10 second quarters...he wants to go sub 10 so he is building from scratch... and selling me his motor.

I know I wont have a 10 sec van... but it will sound like a 10 sec van. lol

metalhead
Post #16

Are you saying that it is an n/a 13b that does 10's? Does it use nitrous? That's one mean motor. Peripheral port or a big monster port?

Sounds like a beast mate, good luck with it. The Taragos must be pretty light if you can only just put a 13b in?

smiley
Post #17

no nitrous... lol...its turbo motor, no fucking way you get a 13B into 10's without assistance. lol

Yeah its gonna be a mean little motor. I'll see how things go though I might get it and put it in a smaller car... seems wasted on a Van.

IEATU
Post #18

QUOTE(smiley @ Jun 26 2007, 05:11 PM) [snapback]1281190129[/snapback]

no nitrous... lol...its turbo motor, no fucking way you get a 13B into 10's without assistance. lol

Yeah its gonna be a mean little motor. I'll see how things go though I might get it and put it in a smaller car... seems wasted on a Van.


believe it or not they are out there smile.gif, you just never see it, and they arent exactly standard

smiley
Post #19

QUOTE(IEATU @ Jul 14 2007, 07:24 PM) [snapback]1281243117[/snapback]

believe it or not they are out there smile.gif, you just never see it, and they arent exactly standard



a NA 13b? 10's? Thats nuts!

I spose anything is possible... just depends how deep...and empty your pockets are. lol

Thanks for the help guys. I sold the car in the end and the new owner is sourcing a new motor for it.

Cheers for your time!

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