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 re-spraying your car!!!  

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SIR GTi
  • SIR GTi
  • Boostn alright, tits R better!
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  • Joined: 13-October 02
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  • From: NQ
Post #1 post 8th January 2003 - 12:39 AM
does anybody know of any sites that give a detailed description on how to re-spray your car. like prep work and techniques used. or if anyone has every done their own car, can they let me know how it turned out and how they went about doing it.



i've already got the air compressor and a ventilated room to do it in, but i need to know mre detailed info, like time between coats and number of coats or colour and clear etc...



thanks

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Suppose you could eat a banana if you wanted but it doesnt really have the same effect........ :-)
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postman
Post #2

http://users.senet.com.au/~mezz/paint.htm

FIDDY
Post #3

man i suggest not 2 do it urself its verry hard 2 paint a car and make it look good, unless u got expearance

resin
Post #4

whoever did the paint on my car did a top job, go see peter king, he's a legend!

mattson
Post #5

You painted the donkey already Resin??? LOL smile.gif

Hoon
Post #6

1. Strip your car. If your doing a color change, strip interior, engine bay, everything. Take out glass, the works.

2. Sand your car back to the undercoat. Obviously a orbital sander would do the trick on flat surfaces, but to get into the cracks to do it right, do it by hand. This preperation will reflect in the finished product.

3. When it's sanded back, give the whole car a chemical wash. Basically, high concentrate car wash. Wash EVERYTHING. Allow to sit dry.



That's a shortcut of the preperation. On to the base coat.

1. Spray even coats of undercoat to your car. No need to make it look fancy, the shit just gets sanded back anyways. Allow 24hrs per coat to get perfect finish. Apply as many coats as you wish. 2 should suffice. After final coat, allow to sit and dry for at least 72 hours. The longer you leave it, the better chance the undercoat will set properly. Best time is 1 week.

2. Sand the shit back to make it smooth. Start at a medium grade sandpaper, and do the whole car. Very lightly, we don't want the whole shit to come off. Next go down a grade of sandpaper, and repeat. Keep doing this until you get down to wet n dry sandpaper. Sand the entire car, making sure you wet the sandpaper.

3. When finished, chemical wash the whole car again. Allow to dry.



Spray time.

1. Assuming you've cleaned the area so there isn't any dust on your work or in the area, start with the roof. Stand on a "horse" or small stool and spray evenly forward and back. Just cause one area doesn't look like it's sprayed, don't delibertly spray in that one spot. This coat is going to be a thin coat, and doesn't need to be perfect. However, don't spray too close, or you'll get runs, and that's something that's a bitch to fix.

2. Keep spraying, forward and back through your whole job, making sure to add paint into the gun along the way. Dont' let it run empty, or it'll splatter and might cause runs.

3. After the job is done, let it sit for 24 hours.

4. After 24 hours, get out some more wet n dry and sand the entire car top to bottom, making sure the sandpaper is wet. This step CAN be skipped if you don't want a perfect job.

5. After the sanding, give the car a good wash with normal car wash, nothing too powerful. Allow to dry.

6. This is the 2nd last coat. Keeping the gun about 50cms from your target area, sweep it forward and back, just like before, just this time, go alot slower. Don't go at a snails pace, it'll run. Just quick enough to allow a thicker coat than before. After doing the entire car, allow to dry for 48 hours.



Final Finish.

1. With the final coat, use more paint that before, it'll give the job a real "wet" look. Make it gleem. Just as before, allow generous coats to be applied, and a good 72 hours for proper drying and setting time. Longer you leave it the better.

2. Clear coats can be applied as you wish, do not sand it, and do not pile it on. Coats must be kept very thin, and as many as you wish. Of course, the more there is, the shiner and longer your paint job will last. With these thin coats, only 12 hours is needed for drying, or 6 hours if it's over 35 degrees.

3. Last move is the buffing. Best to do this by hand, as a machine will rip the clear right off. The best thing to do is get a professional car cleaner in, they'll really make the paint the best, plus they usually use the best products. For a brillient job, don't be expecting much change from $200.



Last thing. When you put your interior, engine ect back in...don't scratch the paint.

51IDE
Post #7

You are probably better off leaving it for the pro's.

I know of a good panel beating place that does full resprays at good prices.

BNO
Post #8

ill scan how to do sick graphics and layerd paint jobs - like u see on them sick mini trucks in the us, like tha alter image tacoma. ill scan and post it biggrin.gif

CMI-83
Post #9

i would have to agree with both 51IDE & FIDDY and say get proffesionals to do it! i know a few good places and i can get mates rates @ two of them as they owe me favourrs so if your getting it done pro then prv msg me k.

SIR GTi
Post #10

hoon, have you done it before by this method or are you just thinking thats how to do it???? if tahts the way you did it, how did the finished job look?!!?!?!



and to the others - these peopele taht you knwo, what sort of $$$$ are they looking for to re-spray a swift, different colour, but not engine bay, just inside of doors etc....(and the outside obviously) thanks mate

SIR GTi
Post #11

[quote]use sikkens or one of the leading refinishes. Cup the paint from any where between 18-22 seconds. The heat can be a piss off because in summer the paint can dry before youve finished the pannel ask the paint shop in your area to suggest the best thinner. if you happend to use bog never use too much hardner! coz it will bleed through and your finish will be bloody crap! :twisted: [color=green][/color]





thanks for the tips, but what do you mean by "cupping the paint"??

SIR GTi
Post #12

and another thing hoon, is that using acrylic paint or 2-pak. cuz if ya read the site that is in a few posts up the guy reackons you need an oven to use 2-pak and its got some crazy chemicals in it.

cams116
Post #13

2pac paint should aways be left to the pro's. Its both too hard, and too dangerous for amitures to use. In my oppinion at least.

Hoon
Post #14

QUOTE
and another thing hoon, is that using acrylic paint or 2-pak.  cuz if ya read the site that is in a few posts up the guy reackons you need an oven to use 2-pak and its got some crazy chemicals in it.




We used 2pak on mine, and yes, it does need an oven. Usually to bake overnight.



Also, most of those steps were used on my car, I worked out the refinements in my head. If your at aspley tonight, I'll show you what happens if you don't let undercoat dry properly.

BNO
Post #15

its page one of 3



ill upload it to my webspace and link it

BNO
Post #16

ok its here



http://enigma3.skankyflat.net/paint.jpg thats page 1 page 2 and 3 will be up soon

CMI-83
Post #17

QUOTE
and to the others - these peopele taht you knwo, what sort of $$$$ are they looking for to re-spray a swift, different colour, but not engine bay, just inside of doors etc....(and the outside obviously)  thanks mate




i'll bug em for a quote tomorrow jus remind me in a day or two to tell you the price k smile.gif

also, you can always save a sh1tload of cash at any panelbeaters for a re-spray if your up for doin the sanding/masking yourself.

SIR GTi
Post #18

[quote="Hoon

We used 2pak on mine, and yes, it does need an oven. Usually to bake overnight.



Also, most of those steps were used on my car, I worked out the refinements in my head. If your at aspley tonight, I'll show you what happens if you don't let undercoat dry properly.[/quote]





how hot does an oven need to be????? and yeah i won't be heading to asply tonite, got ta work!!!!!



but would the same procedure apply for useing the undercoats etc... and then an acrylic topcoat?!

Hoon
Post #19

Baked mine at a gentle rising temp, which reached 52 degrees overnight. By the time the doors were opened in the morning, it was back to room temp. So, it goes up then down overnight.



Yes, the procedure for acrylic and undercoat is basically the same, just different mixes with thinners and paint and shit. Best you speak to someone that's in the paint business about the right mixes.



Also, buy enough paint to paint the car twice. Never know what you may have to re-do or touch up.

SIR GTi
Post #20

thanks for that man, we'll see how i go.



if anyone else has tips or ideas or experience, can they let me know..?thanks.

disco bob
Post #21

really , what do you want to know? i've been workin in panel shops for a while now. so ask away!

SIR GTi
Post #22

QUOTE
really , what do you want to know? i've been workin in panel shops for a while now. so ask away!




I wanna re-spray my car in another colour. white at the moment. the new colour will be a coluor taht is already on cars at the moment, but does it cost much more to customis a colour (make it lighter / darker)?????



ok then. i got a swift 2 door gti (just for size purposes) front kit side skirts and will be getting back kit. car will be straight as possible. i want the entire outside painted, not engine bay (don't wanna touch engine) and the inside of the doors etc. i am prepared to straip most of the car like door panels and carpet around doors, and also sand car back and use a little bod on some minor dents. i'll need some advice on how far back to sand but if i can get the car pretty much sanded back ready to paint, and i'll tape up the windows etc...when i give you the car, how much would i be looking at????



price on.....me sanding car/striping car you painting.....???

" ".....you doing everyting???



colour would prob be someting like the new commodore ss hothouse green???

disco bob
Post #23

you've asked a typical question that we hear all the time.

"how much will it cost?"

answer: "how long is a piece of string"



your paint cost will vary according to many factors(based on hot house green)

you will need(2pac):

1. 20ltr thinners

2. 5ltr prepsol

3. 500ml etch/wash primer

4. 2ltr primer/putty(?)

5. 1ltr base coat(?)

6. 1-4ltr colour(?)

7. min. 4ltr clear

the prices will change depending on brand, and amounts

on top of this do you want mirrors/door handles,etc painted?

different primer needed for these.



all fittings need to be removed

if painting jambs and inside of doors, doors need to be removed and everything removed ie. windows, rubbers etc

same with hatch, bars , bonnet, lights,grille, etc.



screens should also be removed, but there are ways around this



I don't know what your budget is, but i would bank on a VERY minimum of 2k and that is with you doing the strip down.



just remember you get what you pay for.



the panel trade is not as easy as every one thinks it is :shock:

SIR GTi
Post #24

can u just explaint o me what the fuck this 2pac stuff is? can't you just make a close enough match in acrylic paint.



so i you ask how long a piece or string is, i'll change the question.



how much for me complete strip down (sanding back as much as i can and taking door panels and windows out, lights etc (your not painting engine bay)) and you painting using an acrylic green that is close to hot house green or maybe a bit more of a lime colour, plus however many coats or clear you usually do. including door jams etc....pretty much everything you see when you open the doors apart from engine bay and inside boot.



ta.





ps. if your quote is what i wouldf consider resonalbe i will be taking up the job.

SIR GTi
Post #25

and yeah i want door handles and mirrors painted, so if these need a different primer does that mean the body kit will need to same primer as them or another type again.. and does brand name paints really matter or is paint pretty much paint.

Hoon
Post #26

You can get shit paint and good paint. Oh, please go and speak to these guys: http://www.houseofkolor.com and get some funky color from them. I'd love to see one of their "large metallic" chunks in a white car with silver pearl....mmmmm. I reckon they got pretty good paint, and you get what you pay for.



2pac is like epoxy resin you have part a and part b when mixed together they react and harden to form a hard scratch resistant surface.

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