Changing An Rb30 Head  

is there noone out there that can help me???

11th March 2007 - 04:37 AM  Reply  Quote

removing the head is relatively simple. first, turn the motor over until the tdc mark lines up. then pull the camcover off and look at the marks. if they arelined up, cool. if not, turn the motor another turn. pop the t-belt off the pulley. i normally like to leave the manifolds in the bay. so undo the bolts holding the manifolds to the head. pull them away from the head. undo the two litle bolts at the front left and right rear corner. undo the rocker cover and remove the head bolts. then yank the head off.

11th March 2007 - 12:38 PM  Reply  Quote

Ok you need a torque wrench before you do anything. Also, you need a a tappet cover gasket and a head gasket, (a vrs kit is handy as it has these and more).

A gregorys service manual or something similar (you could probably find some info on the net to save buying one but its worth the $30) .... is also important because you need to undo (dont worry if you are binning the old head) and more importantly re tighten the head bolts in a very specific order so the head doesn't warp etc..

You dont need new head bolts on RB30's unlike some other engines which MUST have fresh bolts each time they are removed.

Lastly to answer your labour question most head replacements end up costing about $500-600+ any parts required so your mechanics estimate seems fair enough, although doing it yourself means it only ccosts you $70ish for VRS kit + $30 on some new coolant & any bolts/hoses etc that crap themselves along the way.

The easiest way to remove the head is on a turbo is to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the side of the head first, then undo all the vaccuum, fuel lines and the coolant line that runs around the back of the head to the turbo, then to undo the head bolts, slide off the cam belt and pop the head out.

On the non turbo it would probably be easier to leave the manifold on and just unbolt it where it connects to the top of the exhaust pipe....im guessing that last bit but.

When putting the new head back on its easy to get the cam timing correct again by first aligning TDC on the bottom end whilst the head is out. basically look to make sure the timing markers on the main crank pulley are facing upwards (i.e you can see them) then use the cam belt to turn the bottom end until it is aligned correctly with the timing markers. The number one cylinder should be at its uppermost point when this is done. Its important to check this as its easy to move the belt a small amount without realising it when removing the head and bumping around in there. Then simply make sure the marker on the cam pulley is facing vertical to the head when you put the head back in and use a spanner to turn the cam pulley a bit if it is slightly out of line with the cam belt until the belt slides back over.

VERY IMPORTANT! once you have done this crank the engine over slowly BY HAND (i.e wrench on the main crank bolt) for at least a full revoloution to make sure the valves aren't going to say hello to the pistons due to the timing being way out. This saves alot off $$$ if you messed up the cam timing. If it turns ok (it has its points where its a bit of a bitch to turn due to compression but you can hear/feel if anything is hitting etc) then you are ready to go!

Also its a good idea to pour a bit off oil over the new head before you put the rocker cover on, and make sure you dip the head bolts in oil as per the service instructions.




Hope that helps a bit Its actually not as bad as it sounds just take your time and try to resist the temptation to smash the exhaust manifold when it gives you the craps trying to get to the bolts (it will, trust me)

11th March 2007 - 04:53 PM  Reply  Quote

thanx very much mate ill let u know how it goes, really appreciate ur input

11th March 2007 - 11:58 PM  Reply  Quote