Download PDF Manual

by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.


376


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction.


It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiper and washer system in good shape and keep your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They may not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.


377


If you drive too quickly through


Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.


378


Driving Through Flowing Water


{CAUTION:


Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Turn on your low-beam headlamps — not


just your parking lamps — to help make you more visible to others.


(cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra


following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.


(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth.


See Tires on page 462.


379


Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are


going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.


(cid:127) Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross


most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 381.


(cid:127) Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


City Driving


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.


380


Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.


The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.


381


Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts at Saturn retailers all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.


382


Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir


full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?


(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? (cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you


checked all levels?


(cid:127) Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses


clean?


(cid:127) Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?


(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather


outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?


(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with


a comfortably cool interior.


(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


(cid:127)


383


If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.


{CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.


384


(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.


(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that


warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift


down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.


385


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.


Winter Driving


Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency


supplies in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 462.


386


Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. If you have a traction system, it will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off if you ever need to. You should turn the traction system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 390. Even if your vehicle has a traction system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the traction system off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 365
and StabiliTrak® System on page 367. If you do not have a traction system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.


387


What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.


The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 363. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any


slippery road.


(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on your hazard flashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police


that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around


you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


388


You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


{CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged.


389


You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


{CAUTION:


If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning the wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting the transaxle back and forth, you can destroy the transaxle. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 391. For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 480.


390


Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around the front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 365 and StabiliTrak® System on page 367. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 396.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


391


Tire and Loading Information Label


Example Label


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


392


The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 462 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 469. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined


weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


See Towing a Trailer on page 398 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


Example 1


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


393


Example 2


Example 3


Item


Description


Total


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.


394


Certification/Tire Label


A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, and cargo. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR).


To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Rating GAWR for either the front or rear axle.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


395


If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your


vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child


restraint in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down


unless you need to.


396


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 543. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device know as a “dolly”).


With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment?


(cid:127)


See your retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 382.


Dinghy Towing Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all of its wheels on the ground. It can be towed with the two rear wheels on the ground. See “Dolly Towing” following for more information. Dolly Towing To dolly tow your vehicle, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position with a clamping device designed for towing.


5. Release the parking brake.


397


Level Control On vehicles equipped with automatic level control, the rear of the vehicle is automatically kept level as you load or unload your vehicle. However, you should still not exceed the GVWR or the GAWR. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 391. You may hear the compressor operating when you load or unload your vehicle, and periodically as the system self-adjusts. This is normal. The compressor should operate for brief periods of time. If the sound continues for an extended period of time, your vehicle needs service. Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your retailer to help you load your vehicle the right way.


Towing a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the instructions in this section and check with your retailer for more information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


398


Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify the trailering capacity of vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.


If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed


limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”


later in this section.


(cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first


500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle, or other parts could be damaged.


(cid:127) During the first 500 miles (800 km) that you


tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. (cid:127) You can use THIRD (3) or, as you need to, a


lower gear when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transaxle.


399


Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) Weight of the trailer (cid:127) Weight of the trailer tongue (cid:127) Weight on your vehicle’s tires Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature, and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important.


It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Look in the following chart to find the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.


Vehicle


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


*GCWR


Two-Wheel-Drive Any vehicle without the V92 trailering package or heavy-duty cooling package is limited to a 2,000 lb (907 kg) trailer rating and a 7,000 lb (3 175 kg) GCWR. *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversion. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded.


3,500 lbs (1 588 kg)


8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)


3.29


You can ask your retailer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Center, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


400


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 391 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight of 350 lbs (159 kg) for your vehicle. After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.


401


Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:


total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:


You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the


402


Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle.


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:127) The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended


for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of


your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, remember to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 151. Dirt and water can, too.


Because your rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Certification/Tire label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 391. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.


403


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust, and maintain them properly. Because your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.


404


Driving with a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 151. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:


(cid:127) Have your exhaust system inspected


for leaks, and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip. (cid:127) Keep the rear-most windows closed. (cid:127) If exhaust does come into your


vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Climate Control System on page 205 or Dual Climate Control System on page 209.


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.


Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You will need more passing distance up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


405


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes, or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


406


Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3) instead of DRIVE (D) or, as you need to, a lower gear. This will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your transaxle.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, do the following: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift


into PARK (P).


2. Have someone place chocks under the


trailer wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release


the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply


your parking brake, and shift into PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


407


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal


down while you do the following: (cid:127) Start your engine. (cid:127) Shift into a gear. (cid:127) Release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the


chocks.


4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid, engine oil, belts, cooling system, and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness Your vehicle may have a trailer wiring harness package located in the glove box. It can be connected from the rear of your vehicle to your trailer. Contact your retailer for more information.


408


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ........................................................ 412
Accessories and Modifications ................... 412
California Proposition 65 Warning .............. 413
Doing Your Own Service Work .................. 413
Adding Equipment to the Outside


of Your Vehicle ...................................... 414
Fuel ............................................................. 414
Gasoline Octane ........................................ 414
Gasoline Specifications .............................. 414
California Fuel ........................................... 415
Additives ................................................... 415
Fuels in Foreign Countries ........................ 416
Filling the Tank ......................................... 417
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ............... 419
Checking Things Under the Hood .............. 420
Hood Release ........................................... 421
Engine Compartment Overview .................. 422
Engine Oil ................................................. 423
Engine Oil Life System .............................. 426
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ............................ 428
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ......................... 430


Engine Coolant .......................................... 432
Radiator Pressure Cap .............................. 435
Engine Overheating ................................... 435
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ..................................... 437
Cooling System ......................................... 438
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 443
Windshield Washer Fluid ........................... 444
Brakes ...................................................... 445
Battery ...................................................... 449
Jump Starting ............................................ 450
Bulb Replacement ....................................... 455
Halogen Bulbs ........................................... 455
Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps ........... 456
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime


Running Lamps (DRL) ........................... 457


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps ...................................... 458
License Plate Lamp ................................... 459
Replacement Bulbs ................................... 460
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ....... 460


409


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tires ............................................................ 462
Tire Sidewall Labeling ............................... 463
Tire Terminology and Definitions ............... 466
Inflation - Tire Pressure ............................. 469
High-Speed Operation ............................... 471
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...................... 472
When It Is Time for New Tires .................. 473
Buying New Tires ...................................... 474
Different Size Tires and Wheels ................ 476
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 477
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 478
Wheel Replacement .................................. 478
Tire Chains ............................................... 480
Accessory Inflator ...................................... 480
If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 483
Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 484
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 485
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire ....................................... 488
Secondary Latch System ........................... 495
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 497
Compact Spare Tire .................................. 500


410


Appearance Care ........................................ 501
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 501
Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 502
Leather ...................................................... 503
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ..................................... 504
Care of Safety Belts .................................. 504
Weatherstrips ............................................ 504
Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 505
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 505
Finish Care ............................................... 505
Windshield, Backglass, and


Wiper Blades ......................................... 506
Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 507
Tires ......................................................... 507
Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 508
Finish Damage .......................................... 508
Underbody Maintenance ............................ 508
Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 508
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 509


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Vehicle Identification .................................. 510
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ........... 510
Service Parts Identification Label ............... 510
Electrical System ........................................ 511
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 511
Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 511
Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 511


Power Windows and Other Power


Options .................................................. 511
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 512
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 512
Underhood Fuse Block .............................. 514
Capacities and Specifications .................... 518


411


Service Your Saturn retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your retailer for all your service needs. You will get genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your Saturn vehicle all Saturn. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-Saturn accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. Saturn accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your Saturn retailer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine Saturn accessories. When you go to your Saturn retailer and ask for Saturn accessories, you will know that Saturn-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine Saturn accessories.


412


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,


and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 553.


413


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). Saturn recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 415 for additional information.


Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 99. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 534.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, Saturn recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.


414


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 229. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.


415


The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Saturn retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected.


416


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. When the fuel door is opened on a vehicle with dual sliding doors, the driver’s side sliding door will only open partway. While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether.


417


When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 229. The CHECK GAS CAP message will be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 241 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 505.


418


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to


Notice: get the right type. Your retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 229.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


419


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


420


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the hood


release handle with this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side.


2. Go to the front of the vehicle and push the underhood release to the right. It is located near the center of the hood, above the grille.


3. Lift the hood.


4. Pull up on the hood prop to release it from its


storage clip. The hood prop may be hot due to increased engine temperatures under the hood, so be careful when handling it. Use your hood prop sleeve when handling the hood prop.


5. Put the end of the hood prop into the slot in


the underside of the hood, on the driver’s side of the vehicle. It is marked by an arrow. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.


421


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.9L V6 engine, here is what you will see:


422


A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse


Block on page 514.


B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump


Starting on page 450.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 444.


D. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure


Cap on page 435.


E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power


Steering Fluid on page 443.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine


Oil” under Engine Oil on page 423.


G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 423.


H. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See


“Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 430.


I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake


Fluid” under Brakes on page 445.


J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 428.


K. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling


System on page 438.


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil


several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper


towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


423


When to Add Engine Oil


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 518. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


424


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30
is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


425


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 241. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine Saturn parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.


426


If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. 1. With the ignition key in RUN but the engine off, repeatedly push the set/reset button until OIL is displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC).


2. Once OIL is displayed, push and hold the


set/reset button for five seconds. The number will disappear and be replaced by 100 (indicating 100% oil life remaining).


3. Turn the key to LOCK.


If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your retailer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.


427


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (85 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 522 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. Do not use compressed air to clean the filter.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422
for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.


428


To inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the two clamps on the duct. 2. Remove the duct. 3. Unlatch the two hooks on top of the engine air


cleaner/filter housing.


4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 5. Align the tabs located on the bottom of the


panel with the slots at the bottom of the housing.


6. Latch the hooks to secure the panel in place. If the panel moves easily, check that the tabs are seated correctly in the slots.


7. Put the duct back on and reinstall the clamps.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


429


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 524, and be sure to use the transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 530. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the your retailer’s service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.


Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above


90°F (32°C).


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.


430


Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the


engine running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift


lever in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three to


five minutes.


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean


rag or paper towel. The automatic transaxle dipstick is located toward the back of the engine compartment, near the brake master cylinder reservoir. The dipstick handle is a red loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422 for more information on location.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three


seconds, and then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range,


push the dipstick back in all the way.


How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 530. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 530.


431


3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push


the dipstick back in all the way.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 435.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning messages and gages work


as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


432


What Engine Coolant to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant


Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 530 for more information.


433


Checking Coolant


The coolant recovery tank is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, above the engine air cleaner/filter. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422
for more information on location.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the full cold mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be above the full cold mark or a little higher. The full cold mark is a line with an arrow pointing down at it, located on the front of the coolant recovery tank.


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


434


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 438.


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the cap is properly closed. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 422
for more information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 228. Your vehicle may also have an ENGINE COOLANT HOT message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 241.


435


If your engine catches fire because


Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 437 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 437 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


436


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


Loading...
x