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thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged.
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when
the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
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{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
Housing
Bypass Tube
3. After the engine cools, open the coolant air bleed
valves. There are two bleed valves. One is located on the thermostat housing. The other is located on the thermostat bypass tube.
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4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-22 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valves after the radiator is filled.
5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine
and the compartment.
9. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the full
cold mark.
10. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank.
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up with the vent tube.
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Power Steering Fluid
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a
clean rag.
4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on
the dipstick.
When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the H (Hot) mark. When it is cold, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. If the fluid is at the ADD mark, you should add fluid. What Power Steering Fluid to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
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Windshield Washer Fluid What Washer Fluid to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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(cid:127) So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-35.
Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.
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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-87.
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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to Saturn torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.
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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality Saturn brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved Saturn replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. On vehicles equipped with the optional power sliding door, a low-voltage battery or replacing a battery may cause the system to become inoperative. See Power Sliding Door (PSD) on page 2-16 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
or ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
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Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal for that purpose.
The terminal is located under a tethered cap at the front of the underhood fuse block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
Squeeze the tabs and swing the cap out of the way to access the remote positive (+) terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If
it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
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If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal and
Remote Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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How to Check Lubricant
All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. All-wheel-drive vehicles have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case (Power Transfer Unit) When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
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Carrier Assembly-Differential (Rear Drive Module) When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the differential, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. A fluid loss could indicate a problem; check and have it repaired, if needed. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
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Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps
Bulb Replacement For the type of bulb to use, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-50. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
A. High-beam Headlamp B. Low-beam Headlamp C. Sidemarker Lamp
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To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
3. Remove the screw (B) from the top of the headlamp
assembly.
4. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle. 5. Disconnect the socket wiring harness connector
from the headlamp assembly.
6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove
from the assembly.
7. To replace a headlamp bulb, disconnect the bulb
socket wiring harness and connect to the new bulb socket. To replace a sidemarker bulb, pull the old bulb out and push a new bulb in.
8. Reinstall the bulb socket by inserting into the bulb
assembly and turning it clockwise to secure. 9. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
2. Remove the headlamp retainer pin (A) by turning it
towards the headlamp assembly and pulling it straight out.
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Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To change a stoplamp/taillamp, turn signal or back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-21 for
more information.
2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp housing on the inboard side.
To replace one of these bulbs (A), do the following: 1. Follow the Steps 1 through 4 to remove the
headlamp assembly. See Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps on page 5-47 for more information.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove
from the assembly.
3. Pull the old bulb out from the bulb socket. 4. Replace with a new bulb 5. Reinstall the bulb socket by inserting into the bulb
assembly and turning it clockwise to secure. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
3. Pull out the taillamp housing. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the
taillamp assembly.
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5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove. 6. Replace the bulb by pulling the old bulb out of
the socket and gently pushing in a new bulb.
7. Replace the bulb socket by inserting and turning
clockwise to secure.
8. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by inserting the outboard locating/retaining pins until the lamp is seated.
9. Secure with the inboard screws.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Bulb Number
Back-up Front Turn Signal, DRL and Parking High-Beam and Low-Beam Headlamps Sidemarker Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal
3057K
5702KA
H11
194
3057K
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your retailer.
A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp Bulb
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it isfacing away from the windshield.
2. Squeeze the tabs (B) on each side of the wiper
blade assembly to remove the wiper arm (A) from the blade (C). Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.
3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the tabs on each side of the wiper blade assembly click into place.
To replace the rear wiper blade, follow the steps listed above.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Saturn Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual.
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{CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If
your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
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(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-68.5-54
Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
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Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279
that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
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Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-62. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.
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A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87.
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:
Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading
(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-64 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are under-inflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.
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Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-69.
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When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31, for examples of the labels and where they can be found on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87.
{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your retailer for proper diagnosis.
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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new Saturn original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-69 for more information.
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Used Replacement Wheels
Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new Saturn original equipment wheel.
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.
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Accessory Inflator Your vehicle may have an accessory inflator. With it, you can inflate things like air mattresses and basketballs, and you can also use it to bring your tires up to the proper pressure. The accessory inflator is located in the rear compartment on the driver’s side. To access the accessory inflator, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-21 for
more information.
2. Lift the lever to move the third row rear seatback
forward. See Third Row Seat on page 1-18 for more information.
3. Remove the cover by pulling the lever up.
This symbol is on the accessory inflator switch.
There may be an accessory inflator kit stored in the rear compartment on the passenger’s side. It includes a 20-foot (6 m) hose with an air pressure gage and nozzle adapters.
{CAUTION:
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.
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To use your accessory inflator system, do the following:
1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN. 2. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter, if required, to the end of the hose that has the pressure gage. 3. Attach that end of the hose to the object you wish
to inflate.
4. Remove the protective cap covering the outlet. 5. Attach the other end of the hose to the outlet. 6. Press the accessory inflator switch. The light in the switch will come on to show the system is working. If the accessory inflator system does not turn on or the light does not come on, the fuse may be blown or installed incorrectly. See Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98 or see your retailer for service. Your accessory inflator will automatically shut off after about 10 minutes. The light in the switch will blink. After about one minute you can use the system again. Press the switch and the indicator light will come on.
If you run the accessory inflator longer
Notice: than 30 minutes at a time, you could damage the inflator. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Run the inflator for short periods of time only. After running the accessory inflator for 30 minutes, wait at least 10 minutes before restarting the accessory inflator. To turn off the inflator, do the following: 1. Press the switch and detach the hose, first from the
inflated object, then from the outlet.
2. Put the protective cap back on. 3. Place the inflator kit tools in the pouch, and store in
the rear compartment on the passenger’s side.
To put the cover back on, line up the tabs at the bottom of the cover and put it in place. Push down the tab to secure the cover.
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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the
vehicle.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
To remove the tools, do the following: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-21 for
more information.
2. Remove the convenience net, if equipped. 3. Open the jack storage compartment by lifting the
tab and pulling the cover off.
The tools you will need are located in the storage compartment at the rear of the vehicle, on the passenger’s side.
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A. Jack B. Strap C. Bracket D. Wing Nut
E. Bag and Tools F. Tire Bag and Cable
Storage for All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
4. Remove the jack (A) and jacking tools (E) by loosening and then removing the wing nut (D) and bracket (C).
5. Separate the plastic pouch from the jack and remove the jacking tools, including the folding wrench and extension, from the pouch.
To remove the compact spare tire, do the following:
The tools you will be using include the jack (A), extension (B), and folding wrench (C). The compact spare tire is located under the rear of the vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87 for more information about the compact spare.
A. Hoist Shaft B. Hoist Assembly C. Retainer D. Compact
Spare Tire
E. Extension
(Chisel End)
F. Folding Wrench
1. Attach the folding wrench (F) to the extension (E) and insert the chisel end on an angle through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft (A).
2. Turn the folding wrench counterclockwise to lower the compact spare tire (D) to the ground. Continue to turn the wrench so the compact spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.
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If you have a front-wheel-drive vehicle, the hoist is used to store a full-size or a flat road tire under the vehicle. See “Storing the Flat Tire on an Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” under Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-82 for more information.
4. Remove the compact spare tire from the cable. If the compact spare tire will not lower, check under the vehicle to see if the tire is hanging loose and the cable end and spring under the wheel plate are missing. If so, the secondary latch system is engaged. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-80. To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-73.
3. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable to remove
the compact spare tire, so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening. If your vehicle is an AWD vehicle, after removing the compact spare tire, turn the wrench clockwise to raise the cable back up. On an AWD vehicle, you can not store a full-size tire under the vehicle. It should be stowed inside the vehicle by the cable provided. See “Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” under Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-82 for more information.
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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire If the wheel has a center cap, use the handle of the folding wrench to pry it off. Then, with the other end of the folding wrench, loosen the nuts.
Once the center cap and/or wheel cover are removed, use the following steps to remove the flat tire and install the spare tire.
1. Loosen the wheel nuts
using the folding wrench, but do not remove them. Turn the handle counterclockwise about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.
If your vehicle has the plastic bolt-on wheel covers, loosen the bolts completely using the folding wrench, and remove the wheel cover.
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If you use a jack to raise the vehicle
If your vehicle has wheel locks and you
Notice: use an impact wrench to remove the wheel nuts, you could damage the lock nut or wheel lock key. Do not use an impact wrench to remove the wheel nuts if your vehicle has wheel locks. Notice: without positioning it correctly, you could damage your vehicle. When raising your vehicle on a jack, avoid contact with the rear axle control arms. Notice: molding and attempt to raise the vehicle, you could break the molding and/or cause other damage to your vehicle. Always position the jack so that when the jack head is raised, it will fit firmly in the notch located inboard from the rocker molding.
If you position the jack under the rocker
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A. Front Location B. Rear Location 2. Near each wheel, there is a notch (A and B) in the
vehicle’s frame, inboard of the rocker molding. Position the jack and raise the jack head until it fits firmly into the notch in the vehicle’s frame nearest the flat tire.
3. Do not raise the vehicle yet. 4. Put the compact spare tire near you.
{CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
5. Attach the folding wrench (A) to the jack (B), and turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack head approximately 3 inches (7.6 cm).
5-75
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
6. Raise the vehicle by turning the folding wrench
clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the wheel well.
7. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
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8. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
9. Install the compact spare tire and put the wheel
nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
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{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103 for wheel nut torque specification.
10. Lower the vehicle by attaching the folding wheel
wrench to the jack and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-103 for the wheel nut torque specification.
11. Tighten the wheel nuts
firmly in a crisscross sequence, as shown.
Notice: Wheel covers will not fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.
12. Do not try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It will not fit. Store the wheel cover securely in the rear of the vehicle until you have the flat tire repaired or replaced.
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Secondary Latch System Your vehicle may have an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop a tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stowed with the valve stem pointing down. Your vehicle uses the underbody tire hoist assembly to store either the compact spare or a flat road tire. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-82
for instructions on storing the spare or flat tire correctly.{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.
{CAUTION:
Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.
5-80
To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:
4. Lower the jack by turning the folding wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the compact spare tire is resting on the folding wrench.
1. Place the jack under the vehicle, ahead of the rear
bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the compact spare tire.
2. Turn the folding wrench clockwise to raise the jack
until it lifts the secondary latch device under the wheel plate.
3. Keep raising the jack until the compact spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly in place. This lets you know that the secondary latch has released.
5. Grasp the compact spare tire with both hands and
pull it out from under the vehicle.
6. Reach under the vehicle and remove the folding
wrench and jack.
Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.
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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
Storing the Spare Tire
{CAUTION:
The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing down. If the spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing upwards, its secondary latch won’t work properly and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle. If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing down.
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To store the spare tire, do the following: 1. Lay the tire near the rear of the vehicle with the
valve stem down.
2. Remove the small center cap by tapping the back
of the cap with the extension of the shaft, if the vehicle has aluminum wheels.
3. Slide the cable retainer through the center of the
wheel and start to raise the tire. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.
4. When the tire is almost in the stored position, turn
the tire so the valve is towards the rear of the vehicle. This will help when you check and maintain tire pressure in the spare.
5. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the folding wrench until you feel more than two clicks. This indicates that the compact spare tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.
6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A),
and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the folding wrench to tighten the cable.
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Storing the Flat Tire on a Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicle The flat tire is stored the same as the spare tire for front-wheel-drive vehicles. Refer to “Storing the Spare Tire” listed previously. Storing the Flat Tire on an All-Wheel-Drive Vehicle 1. Remove the tire storage bag and cable package
from the jack storage area.
2. Remove the small center cap by tapping the back
of the cap with the extension of the shaft, if the vehicle has aluminum wheels.
3. Put the flat tire in the tire storage bag and place it
in the rear storage area with the valve stem pointing toward the front of the vehicle.
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A. Cable B. Liftgate Hinges C. Door Striker 4. Pull the cable through the door striker and the
center of the wheel.
5. Hook the cable onto the outside portion of the liftgate hinges.
7. Make sure the metal
tube is centered at the striker. Push the tube towards the front of the vehicle.
6. Pull on the cable to make sure it is secure.
8. Close the liftgate and make sure it is latched
properly.
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Put back all tools as they were stored in the jack storage compartment and put the compartment cover back on. To put the cover back on, line up the tabs on the right of the cover with the slots in the cover opening. Push the cover in place and push down the tab so that it rests in the groove. This secures the cover in place. Store the center cap or the plastic bolt-on wheel covers until a full size tire is put back on the vehicle. When you replace the compact spare with a full-size tire, reinstall the bolt-on wheel covers or the center cap. Hand-tighten them over the wheel nuts, using the folding wrench.
Storing the Tools
A. Strap B. Bag and Tools C. Jack
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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare.
Appearance Care Cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Other cleaning products can burst into flames if a match is struck near them or if they get on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if their fumes are inhaled in an enclosed space. When anything from a container is used to clean the vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows of the vehicle when cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean the vehicle: (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner
Turpentine Lacquer Thinner
(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage the vehicle, too.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) Do not use any of these products unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage the vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol
Laundry Soap
(cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior.
If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning
When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your GM dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your GM dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery.
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(cid:127) Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to
remove a soil from any interior surface.
(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to
your vehicle’s interior surfaces.
(cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively
with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.
(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry
detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.
(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while
cleaning.
(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.
Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques:
For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum.
To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or
club soda.
2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the
cleaning cloth remains clean.
5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild
soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.
Leather A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather.
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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.
{CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Washing Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get approved cleaning products from your retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-95. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-91.
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Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get approved cleaning products from your Saturn retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-95. Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
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If you use strong soaps, chemicals,
Aluminum Wheels Notice: abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only GM-approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of the vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because the surface could be damaged. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.
If you drive your vehicle through an
Notice: automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. Do not take the vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.
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Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or
