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Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: • Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.


• Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.


• Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to


pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.


• Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. • When you are being passed, ease to the right.


Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.


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Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If the traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.


While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: • Drive defensively. • Do not drink and drive. • Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside


rearview mirror.


• Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.


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• Watch for animals. • When tired, pull off the road. • Do not wear sunglasses. • Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. • Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle


clean — inside and out.


• Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or


curves.


No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.


Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.


{ WARNING:


Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: • Allow extra following distance. • Pass with caution. • Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. • Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. • Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 6-44.


• Turn off cruise control.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: • Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows


clean — inside and outside?


• Wiper Blades: In good shape? • Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? • Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? • Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to


recommended pressure?


• Weather and Maps: Safe to travel?


Have up-to-date maps?


Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: • Keep the vehicle well ventilated. • Keep interior temperature cool.


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• Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead


and to the sides.


• Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments


often.


Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: • Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape. • Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling


system, and transmission.


• Going down steep or long hills, shift to a


lower gear.


{ WARNING:


If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{ WARNING:


Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.


• Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut


across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


• Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your


lane (stalled car, accident).


• Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks


area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.


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Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 0°C (32°F) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. If the vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS) on page 5-7, it improves the ability to accelerate on slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. When driving through deep snow, turn off the traction control system to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 5-4 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement.


Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces. Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-6. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe: • Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 4-3. • Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.


{ WARNING:


Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.


WARNING:


(Continued)


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WARNING:


(Continued)


If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:


• Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe.


• Check again from time to time to be sure


snow does not collect there.


• Open a window about 5 cm (two inches) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air.


• Fully open the air outlets on or under the


instrument panel.


• Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting


that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat. Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 3-30. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 5-24.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5-18. If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.


{ WARNING:


If the vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.


For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 6-65.


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Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on the vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Vehicle Certification label.


{ WARNING:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The Tire and Loading Information label lists the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


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The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation, see Tires on page 6-44 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 6-51. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certification Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of


occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver


and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


4. The resulting figure equals the available


amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load


from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.


If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 5-27 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Example 2


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 68 kg (150 lbs) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


Total


Item


453 kg (1,000 lbs)


136 kg (300 lbs)


317 kg (700 lbs)


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 68 kg (150 lbs) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


453 kg (1,000 lbs)


340 kg (750 lbs)


113 kg (250 lbs)


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positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed the vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight. Certification Label


Example 3


Item


Description Maximum Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 91 kg (200 lbs) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


Total


453 kg (1,000 lbs)


453 kg (1,000 lbs)


0 kg (0 lbs)


Refer to the vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s maximum vehicle capacity weight and seating


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A vehicle specific Certification label is attached to the driver side center pillar. The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and tongue weight if pulling a trailer.


Never exceed the GVWR for the vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.


{ WARNING:


Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.


Notice: Overloading the vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Do not overload the vehicle.


If things like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else are put inside the vehicle, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{ WARNING:


Things you put inside the vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


• Put things in the cargo area of the


vehicle. In the cargo area, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


• Never stack heavier things, like


suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats. • Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in the vehicle.


• When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


• Do not leave a seat folded down unless


you need to.


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Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: • What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?


Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


• How far will the vehicle be towed? Some vehicles


have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


• Does the vehicle have the proper towing


equipment? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.


• Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 5-14.


Towing


Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-6. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.


Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly.


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Dinghy Towing When dinghy towing, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components.


3. Set the parking brake. 4. To prevent the battery from draining while


the vehicle is being towed, remove the following fuse from the instrument panel fuse block: (IGN SENSOR). See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 6-97 for more information.


5. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY. 6. Shift the transmission to N (Neutral). 7. Release the parking brake. Remember to reinstall the IGN SENSOR fuse once the destination has been reached. Notice: If 105 km/h (65 mph) is exceeded while towing the vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed 105 km/h (65 mph) while towing the vehicle.


To dinghy tow the vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it to the


towing vehicle.


2. Shift the transmission to P (Park) and turn the


ignition to LOCK/OFF.


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Dolly Towing


Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear.


Tow the vehicle with the two rear wheels on the ground and the front wheels on a dolly: To tow the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and a dolly: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Put the gear shift lever in P (Park). 3. Set the parking brake.


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4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position with a clamping device designed for towing.


Towing a Trailer


5. Remove the key from the ignition. 6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 7. Release the parking brake.


Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear.


{ WARNING:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight


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• Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles


(1600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, transmission or other parts could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty.


• Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a


trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


• Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.


• Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is


above 100°F (38°C).


Three important considerations have to do with weight: • the weight of the trailer, • the weight of the trailer tongue • and the total weight on the vehicle’s tires.


of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for the safety of the driver and the passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, axles, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points: • There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 8-5 for more information. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the


vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-19 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


Using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer.


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Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification/Tire label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 5-19. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here are some rules to follow: • The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended


for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


• Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle


when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water, and deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 3-30 in the Index for more information.


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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.


Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.


On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. If the engine does overheat, see Engine Overheating on page 6-28. Parking on Hills


{ WARNING:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the


brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


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4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking


brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).


5. Release the brake pedal. Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:


• start the engine, • shift into a gear, and • release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3
for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 6-28. Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing If the vehicle gets a flat tire while towing a trailer, be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the vehicle before changing the tire.


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✍ NOTES


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Section 6


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................6-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................6-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................6-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....6-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................6-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the


Vehicle ......................................................6-5
Fuel ................................................................6-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................6-6
Gasoline Specifications ....................................6-6
California Fuel ...............................................6-6
Additives .......................................................6-7
Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................6-8
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................6-9
Filling the Tank ............................................6-10
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................6-12
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................6-12
Hood Release ..............................................6-13
Engine Compartment Overview .......................6-14
Engine Oil ...................................................6-17
Engine Oil Life System ..................................6-20
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................6-21
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................6-23
Cooling System ............................................6-24
Engine Coolant .............................................6-25
Engine Overheating .......................................6-28


Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................6-30
Power Steering Fluid .....................................6-30
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................6-32
Brakes ........................................................6-33
Battery ........................................................6-35
Jump Starting ...............................................6-36
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................6-40
Bulb Replacement ..........................................6-41
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................6-41
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps


and Back-up Lamps ...................................6-41
License Plate Lamp ......................................6-43
Replacement Bulbs .......................................6-43
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............6-44
Tires ..............................................................6-44
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................6-45
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................6-48
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................6-51
High-Speed Operation ...................................6-52
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................6-53
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................6-54
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................6-57
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................6-59
Buying New Tires .........................................6-60
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................6-61


6-1


Section 6


Service and Appearance Care


Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................6-62
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................6-63
Wheel Replacement ......................................6-64
Tire Chains ..................................................6-65
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................6-66
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ....................6-67
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Storage .........6-74
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................6-74
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................6-76
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................6-78
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............6-84
Compact Spare Tire ......................................6-88
Appearance Care ............................................6-89
Interior Cleaning ...........................................6-89
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................6-90
Leather .......................................................6-91
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic


Surfaces ..................................................6-91
Care of Safety Belts ......................................6-91
Weatherstrips ...............................................6-92
Washing Your Vehicle ...................................6-92


Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................6-92
Finish Care ..................................................6-92
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................6-93
Aluminum Wheels .........................................6-94
Tires ...........................................................6-94
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................6-94
Finish Damage .............................................6-95
Underbody Maintenance ................................6-95
Chemical Paint Spotting .................................6-95
Vehicle Identification ......................................6-95
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................6-95
Service Parts Identification Label .....................6-96
Electrical System ............................................6-96
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................6-96
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................6-96
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......6-97
Fuses .........................................................6-97
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..........................6-97
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................6-100
Rear Compartment Fuse Block .....................6-102
Capacities and Specifications ........................6-105


6-2


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, is not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 2-74.


6-3


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems, many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


6-4


Doing Your Own Service Work


{ WARNING:


You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


• Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.


• Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 8-14. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 2-73.


Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 7-13.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Look for the TOP TIER label on the fuel pump to ensure gasoline meets enhanced detergency standards developed by auto companies. A list of marketers providing TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline can be found at www.toptiergas.com.


The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 6-95. If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code 0), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel E85
(85% Ethanol) on page 6-8. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 6-6.


6-5


Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code 0), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, an audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock, might be heard when driving. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, the engine needs service. If the vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you could choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, an audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock, might be heard when driving. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If heavy knocking is heard when using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, the engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 6-7 for additional information.


California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-34. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


6-6


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, nothing should have to be added to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems.


Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


6-7


At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Specification D 5798. By definition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM specifications can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM specification D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration.


Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 6-95. If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code 0), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel on page 6-5. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 6-6. Only vehicles that have the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code 0) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U.S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you find E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%.


6-8


E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to refill the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 6-10. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85
fuel and can harm the vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


6-9


Filling the Tank


{ WARNING:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the fuel pump island. Turn off the engine when refueling. Do not smoke near fuel or when refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The fuel door is located on the passenger side of the vehicle.


6-10


To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release and it will open.


To remove the tethered fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 6-8. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{ WARNING:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping the fuel before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6-92.


When replacing the fuel cap, turn it to the clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-34. If the vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the CHECK GAS CAP message displays if the fuel cap is not properly installed.


{ WARNING:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/ retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it might not fit properly. This can cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and can damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 4-34.


6-11


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{ WARNING:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


• Dispense fuel only into approved containers. • Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


• Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


• Do not smoke while pumping fuel. • Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{ WARNING:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ WARNING:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


6-12


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the hood release


handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle to the left of the steering column.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the secondary hood release handle toward the driver side of the vehicle.


3. Lift the hood. 4. After the hood is slightly lifted, it will continue to


open to the full position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force of the strut is reduced, then release the hood to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.


6-13


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.4L L4 engine, this is what you see:


6-14


A. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 6-21. B. Engine Cooling Fan. See Cooling System on


page 6-24.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 6-17.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of view). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 6-17.


E. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant on


page 6-25.


F. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 6-24. G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake


Fluid” under Brakes on page 6-33.


H. See Battery on page 6-35. I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 6-32.


J. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on


page 6-100.


6-15


When you open the hood on the 3.6L V6 engine, this is what you see:


6-16


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


A. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 6-21. B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 6-30.


C. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 6-17.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 6-17.


E. Electric Engine Cooling Fans (Out of View). See


Cooling System on page 6-24.


F. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Engine Coolant on


page 6-25.


G. Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 6-24. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake


Fluid” under Brakes on page 6-33.


I. Automatic transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking


the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 6-23.


J. See Battery on page 6-35. K. Underhood Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment


Fuse Block on page 6-100.


L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 6-32.


6-17


When to Add Engine Oil


2.4L L4 Engine


Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.


3.6LV6 Engine


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one liter/quart of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 6-105.


6-18


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:


• GM6094M


Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


• SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


• American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −29°C (−20°F), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.


6-19


Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed.


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-42. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


6-20


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil and filter, the system must be reset. To reset the oil life system: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. With the CHANGE OIL SOON message displayed,


press either of the DIC buttons to clear the message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-42.


3. Display OIL LIFE RESET on the DIC. 4. Press and hold the INFO button for at least one


second. An ACKNOWLEDGED message displays for three seconds or until the next button is pressed. This tells you the system has been reset. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 4-46.


5. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change.


6-21


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:


1. Remove the spring clamps that hold the cover on. 2. Lift off the cover.


6-22


3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Align the filter correctly using the alignment tab. 5. Install the cover by guiding the tabs on the rim of the top cover into the bottom hinges and turn the cover down to close it.


6. The spring clips will engage easily, if the cover is


properly seated.


{ WARNING:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealer/retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Scheduled Maintenance on page 7-3, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. For the 2.4L and 3.6L engines, the transmission fluid will not reach the end of the dipstick unless the transmission is at operating temperature. If you need to check the transmission fluid level, please take your vehicle to your dealer/retailer.


6-23


Cooling System The Cooling System allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.


{ WARNING:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ WARNING:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


3.6L V6 Engine shown, 2.4L L4 Engine similar


A. Engine Cooling Fans B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap


6-24


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 6-28.


What to Use


{ WARNING:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: • Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),


outside temperature.


• Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),


engine temperature.


6-25


If an improper coolant mixture is used, the


If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used


• Protects against rust and corrosion. • Will not damage aluminum parts. • Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10 for more information. Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at


6-26


the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. See Engine Coolant on page 6-25 for more information. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank


{ WARNING:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. 1. Remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap


when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.


2. Then keep turning the


pressure cap slowly, and remove it.


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


{ WARNING:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ WARNING:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to the FULL COLD mark. Wait about five minutes, then check to see if the level is below the mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least five minutes.


4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,


start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank might be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


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Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. You will find an engine coolant temperature gage as well as an engine coolant temperature warning light on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 4-33 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 4-33. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 8-6. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6-30 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If the engine catches fire while driving with


If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment


{ WARNING:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop the engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 6-30 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: • Climbs a long hill on a hot day. • Stops after high-speed driving. • Idles for long periods in traffic. • Tows a trailer. If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and


to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.


3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)


while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.


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Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 6-17.


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for reservoir location.


If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” following.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a significant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.


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When to Check Power Steering Fluid Power steering fluid is used in all vehicles with V6 engines. Vehicles with the 4-cylinder engine have electric power steering and do not use power steering fluid. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


If the vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, the fluid level should be between the MIN (Minimum) and MAX (Maximum) marks when the engine is cold, and at the MAX mark when the engine is hot. If the fluid is at the MIN mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering fluid should be added. The fluid level should be within the crosshatch area on the dipstick. If the fluid is at or below the ADD or MIN mark on the dipstick, add just enough fluid to bring the level within the crosshatch area. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-42 for more information.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


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(cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT 3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 6-14 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down: • The brake fluid level goes down because of normal


brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.


• A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also


cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.


Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{ WARNING:


If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


When the brake fluid falls to a low level, the BRAKE FLUID message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 4-42.


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What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 7-10. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.


{ WARNING:


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake


hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 6-92.


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{ WARNING:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with

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