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(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the handle with
this symbol on it. It is located under the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on
the secondary hood release.
3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts
will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.
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Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the engine, here is what you will see:
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A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-88.
B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.
C. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39. D. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-26.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-13.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
under Engine Oil on page 5-13.
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick (If Equipped). See
“Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-34.
I. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
J. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See
Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-22.
K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
L. Engine Coolant Overflow Reservoir. See Engine
Coolant on page 5-23.
Engine Oil If the Check Oil message appears on the trip computer display, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Trip Computer on page 3-33. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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When to Add Engine Oil
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.
If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-90. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.
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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
Look for two things: • GM4718M
Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.
If you use oils that do not have the
Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. • SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.
Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.
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Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM4718M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.
Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A Service Engine Oil light on the trip computer display will come on. See Trip Computer on page 3-33. Change engine oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check engine oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.
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If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. After changing the engine oil, reset the system by performing the following steps: How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime engine oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to the Service Engine Oil light being turned on, reset the system. 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to ON. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly
two times within five seconds.
3. Turn the key to LOCK.
If the Service Engine Oil light comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.
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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (41 500 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Lift off the cover. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Put the cover back on tightly.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.
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{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can
Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving in the following conditions: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). • At high speed for quite a while. • In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
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Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: • Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
• With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
• With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
• Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transmission dipstick is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 1. Unclip the handle and remove the dipstick; wipe it clean with a clean rag or paper towel and re-insert it fully. Remove it again and read the fluid level.
2. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the cross-hatched HOT area for a hot check.
3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way. Remember to always replace the dipstick and lock the handle down.
How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check.
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The level should never read over the HOT mark, so be careful not to add too much. It does not take much fluid, generally less than 0.6 pints (0.3 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. • After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.
• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way. Remember to always replace the dipstick and lock the handle down.
• If fluid has to be added often, there may be a
problem or leak and you should see your dealer.
Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to have your manual transmission fluid checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission does not require changing.
How to Check Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps: 1. Remove the reverse light switch. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of
the switch hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the switch and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.
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When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine the proper fluid. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 1. Remove the reverse light switch. 2. Add fluid at the switch hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the switch hole.
3. Install the reverse light switch. Be sure the switch is
fully seated.
Hydraulic Clutch The clutch fluid level should be checked weekly. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. If the clutch fluid requires constant filling it could indicate a leak. Have the system inspected and repaired by your dealer. Adding fluid will not correct a leak.
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How to Check and Add Fluid To check the fluid level, look at the markings on the reservoir. If the fluid level is between the MIN and the MAX line, the fluid level is correct. If the fluid level is between these marks do not remove the cap, as the fluid will quickly absorb moisture. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on reservoir location. If fluid does need to be added, first turn the vehicle off. Remove the cap and add the proper fluid. Remember to replace the cap and clean up any spilled fluid.
Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added.
The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as
they should.
Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you use an improper coolant mixture,
Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
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If you use the proper coolant, you do not
If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant
The coolant overflow reservoir is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant overflow reservoir, but be careful not to spill it. Check the level with the dipstick and keep adding fluid until the level is correct.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the level is correct, replace the dipstick then push down on the coolant reservoir cap while turning it clockwise until it stops, to lock it into position.
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The coolant level should be checked at each fuel fill, by looking at the dipstick in the coolant overflow reservoir. To remove the dipstick, push down on the coolant reservoir cap while turning it counterclockwise. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the bottom arrow on the dipstick. After the vehicle has been driven and the engine is at normal operating temperature, the level should be somewhere between the two arrows on the dipstick. If the coolant level is correct, replace the dipstick then push down on the coolant reservoir cap while turning it clockwise until it stops, to lock it into position.
If the coolant overflow reservoir is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
Occasionally check the coolant in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-29.
If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,
Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for information on location.
Engine Overheating Immediate action is required if your engine overheats. This is indicated by the coolant temperature gage and the Engine Temp Hot message on the trip computer display. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-28 and Trip Computer on page 3-33 for more information.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If your engine catches fire because you
Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with an Engine Temp Hot message can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, apply the parking brake, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle while you get out and check that the cooling fan is working.
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2. If the fan is working and the temperature gage needle has not returned to its normal position within a few minutes, stop the engine and remove the ignition key. Look for leaks at the radiator hoses and connections, heater hoses and connections, radiator, and water pump. Be careful when checking these areas as they will probably still be hot. If you find a major leak or other problems that may have caused the engine to overheat, do not run the engine until these problems have been corrected. If you do not find anything wrong, you should check the engine coolant level. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23. You should also check the air intake area below the front bumper to ensure that it is clear of leaves and road grime.
3. Turn off your air conditioning and turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:
{CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If you can hear the coolant inside the coolant overflow reservoir bubbling or boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.
A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan C. Engine Coolant Overflow Reservoir
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The coolant level should be at or above the bottom arrow on the dipstick. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If you operate the engine without coolant
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: or fail to maintain the cooling system properly, you could damage the engine. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the maintenance schedule in this manual for maintaining your cooling system. See Cooling System on page 5-29 for more information. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Overflow Reservoir
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
If you have not found a problem yet, check the coolant level on the coolant overflow reservoir dipstick. If the coolant level is not at or above the bottom arrow on the dipstick, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant overflow reservoir. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information. Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
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To add coolant to the overflow reservoir, do the following: 1. Remove the coolant overflow reservoir cap when
the cooling system is no longer hot.
If there is still no coolant visible on the dipstick, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it.
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
2. Fill the coolant overflow reservoir with the proper mixture, until it reaches the bottom arrow on the dipstick.
3. Replace the dipstick, then press down on the
coolant reservoir cap while turning it clockwise until it stops, to lock it into position.
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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a specific radiator fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when
the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on the location of the radiator pressure cap. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant
mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.
4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine
and the compartment.
5. Then fill the coolant overflow reservoir to the bottom
arrow on the dipstick.
6. Put the cap back on the coolant overflow reservoir,
but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
7. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.
8. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator fill neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
9. Then replace the radiator pressure cap. At any time
during this procedure, if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
10. Check the coolant in the overflow reservoir. The level should be at the bottom arrow on the dipstick when the engine is cold. See your dealer, if necessary.
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Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
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How to Check Power Steering Fluid The fluid level should be checked after the vehicle has been driven for at least 20 minutes, so that the fluid is warm. A cold level check can be done after the engine has been off for at least five hours. However, the hot level check is recommended. The fluid level can be viewed through the reservoir. The level markings are next to the fluid window. When the fluid is cold, the level should be between the COLD MIN (Minimum) and MAX (Maximum) marks. When the vehicle has been driven for at least 20 minutes and the fluid is hot, the level should be between the HOT MIN and MAX marks. If fluid must be added, turn the cap counterclockwise to the stop; then the cap can be lifted off. Do not overfill the reservoir and remember to replace the cap tightly when you are finished and clean up any spilled fluid. If you often need to add fluid, you should see your dealer. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-4 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.
So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-27.
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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Look at the brake fluid reservoir.
{CAUTION:
The fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is between the MIN and MAX marks. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-4 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-76.
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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
or ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
5-40
Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system. Remove any battery covers.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
5-42
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
Notice: If the jumper cables are removed too quickly after starting the vehicle with the dead battery, a momentary spike in voltage may occur, damaging electrical components. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always allow both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure to run for at least one minute after starting the vehicle with the dead battery, before removing the jumper cables. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. If the vehicle does start, be sure to allow both vehicles to run for at least one minute before removing the jumper cables.
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If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Replace any battery covers.
Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery
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Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: • The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps
are 15 ft. (4.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.
• The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.
• The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular
to the wall or other flat surface.
• The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud
on it.
• The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other
work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed.
• The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full
tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat.
• Tires should be properly inflated. • The spare tire is in its original location in
the vehicle.
Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.
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To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.
2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam
headlamp.
3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim
dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.
4. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and mark it.5. Draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle at the wall or other flat surface where it was marked it Step 4.
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6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.
7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a No. 2 Phillips head screwdriver.
Bulb Replacement For the type of bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps Driver’s Side To replace the driver’s side headlamp bulbs, first do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
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Passenger’s Side Shown
8. Turn the vertical aiming screw (A) until the
headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. If you turn it clockwise, it will raise the beam and if you turn it counterclockwise, it will lower the beam. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.
9. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 for the opposite headlamp.
Passenger’s Side To replace the passenger’s side headlamp bulbs, first do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Disconnect the battery clamp. 3. Remove the battery retaining plate and slide the
battery out of the way toward the rear of the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the battery terminals. If your vehicle is
equipped with a larger battery, it must be completely removed from the vehicle.
2. Remove the five screws in the radiator cover. 3. Unclip and remove the radiator cover.
A hole is provided in the air intake duct so that the bulbs can be accessed for replacement.
After following the procedure to replace the bulbs, clip the radiator cover to the radiator fan shroud and reinstall the five screws.
After following the procedure to replace the bulbs, reinstall and reconnect the battery. 1. Access the bulbs by following the previous
instructions for either the driver’s side or passenger’s side of the vehicle.
2. Turn the dust caps
counterclockwise and remove from the rear of the headlamp assembly to gain access to the bulb.
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3. Remove the wiring harness connector by squeezing
the two tabs on the connector and pulling the connector down.
4. Remove the old bulb
by twisting the bulb counterclockwise.
5. Install the new bulb without touching it. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Follow the removal procedure for either the driver’s
side or passenger’s side of the vehicle to access the bulbs. See Headlamps on page 5-47 for more information.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the
bulb assembly.
4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove. 5. Lightly press the bulb and twist counterclockwise
out of the socket.
6. Insert the new bulb and install the bulb socket.
The bulb should be colored orange.
7. Reconnect the wiring harness connector. 8. Reinstall the battery or radiator cover. See
Headlamps on page 5-47 for more information.
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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps
A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Back-up Lamp C. Turn Signal Lamp
To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-8 for more
information.
2. Remove the two screws that attach the taillamp
assembly to the vehicle.
3. Pull the assembly sideways out from the panel so
that the locating pegs on the side of the lamp assembly snap free from the clips.
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4. Turn the appropriate bulb socket counterclockwise while holding the assembly, to release it from the housing.
5. Remove the bulb from the socket by pushing it in
and turning it counterclockwise. The turn signal bulb must have amber colored glass.
6. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket by pushing
it into the socket and turning it clockwise.
7. Install the bulb socket into the lamp housing,
ensuring that the socket locks securely into place. 8. Reinstall the lamp assembly so that the clips are seated correctly. Fit the housing to the body, so that the locating pegs snap into the clips. 9. Install and tighten the screws to secure.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Back-up Lamp Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp Headlamps
High-Beam Low-Beam
Rear Turn Signal Stoplamp and Taillamp
Bulb Number 1156
1157NA
H9
H11LL 1156NA 1157For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-8 for more information. To replace the wiper blade assembly: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into
the vertically-locked position.
2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place.
Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.
{CAUTION:
(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used
tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.
If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.
If your vehicle has low-profile tires, they
Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes and other road hazards.
Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. High performance tires, like the original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement and may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. If you choose to use winter tires: • Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all
four wheel positions.
• Use only radial ply tires of the same size as your
original equipment tires.
See your Pontiac dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-64.
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Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example
(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-64. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.
(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59.
(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.
(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
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Compact Spare Tire Example
(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-76
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-68. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.
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(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
5-57
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-59 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
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Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-63.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-64.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.
Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:
Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading
(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy
If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For more information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29.
5-59
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. When driving with less than the maximum load capacity allowed for your vehicle, you can set tire inflation pressure to the recommended amounts shown in the following chart. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.
Recommended Cold Tire Inflation
Tire Size
Occupant and Cargo Weight:
470 lbs (210 kg) or Less
Occupant and Cargo Weight:
Up to 740 lbs (330 kg)
(Vehicle Capacity Weight)
245/45ZR17 95W 235/40ZR18 91W T145/70R17 96M (Compact Spare)
Front Tires
30 psi (210 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa)
Rear Tires
30 psi (210 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa)
Front Tires
35 psi (240 kPa) 33 psi (230 kPa)
Rear Tires
35 psi (240 kPa) 39 psi (270 kPa)
60 psi (420 kPa)
60 psi (420 kPa)
60 psi (420 kPa)
60 psi (420 kPa)
When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information about your vehicle’s compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-76. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage.
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Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. High Speed Operation
{CAUTION:
Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.
Vehicles equipped with 245/45ZR17 95W size tires, do not require additional air pressure for high-speed operation. If your vehicle has 235/40ZR18 91W size tires, use the following chart to determine the cold tire inflation pressure when operating your vehicle under high-speed conditions.
Tire Size: 235/40ZR18 91W Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure for High Speed Operation
Occupant and Cargo Weight:
470 lbs (210 kg) or less Front Tires Rear Tires
36 psi
(250 kPa)
36 psi
(250 kPa)
Occupant and Cargo Weight:
Up to 740 lbs (330 kg)
(Vehicle Capacity
Weight)
Front Tires Rear Tires
39 psi
(270 kPa)
44 psi
(300 kPa)
When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the tire and loading information label.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-63 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-66 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
When rotating non-directional tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.
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If your vehicle has 235/40ZR18 tires, they must roll in a certain direction for the best overall performance. The direction is shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall. Because these tires are uni-directional, they should be rotated as shown here. These tires should only be moved from front to rear and rear to front on the same side of the vehicle. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-90.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-68.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: • You can see the indicators at three or more places
• You can see cord or fabric showing through the
around the tire.
tire’s rubber.
• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric. • The tire has a bump, bulge or split. • The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire and Loading Information label. For more information about this label and where to find it, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Make sure the replacements are the same size, load capacity, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-76.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
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The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-68 for more information.
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Used Replacement Wheels
