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If the tire pressure has fallen more then 10 psi (68 kPa), below the recommended inflation pressure, stop driving the vehicle. The tire is too severely damaged and the tire sealant and compressor cannot seal the tire. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 12-6 if you need assistance. If the tire pressure has not dropped more than 10 psi (68 kPa) from the recommended inflation pressure, inflate the tire back up to the recommended inflation pressure.
11. Unplug the air compressor accessory plug (B) from the accessory power outlet in the vehicle.
12. Turn the sealant/air hose (E) counterclockwise to remove.
13. Replace the tire valve
stem cap.
14. Stow the sealant/air hose (E) and air compressor accessory plug (B) in their original locations.
15. If the flat tire was able to be inflated to the recommended inflation pressure, remove the maximum speed label from the sealant canister and place it in a highly visible location.
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Using the Air Compressor without Sealant to Inflate an Underinflated Tire To use the air compressor to inflate a tire with air only and not sealant:
19. Wipe off any sealant from the
wheel, tire or vehicle.
20. Dispose of the used sealant
canister at a local dealer/retailer or in accordance with local state codes and practices. After using the sealant canister, replace it with a new canister available from your dealer/retailer. This is a temporary repair. Take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer to have the tire repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
A. Air Compressor Accessory Plug B. Air Compressor C. Sealant Canister D. Sealant/Air Hose E. Air-only Hose F. Pressure Gage G. On/Off Switch
Do a safety check before proceeding. See If a Tire Goes Flat on page 9-62. To use the air compressor to inflate a tire with air only and not sealant: 1. Lift the lever and pull the air-only
hose (E) from the bottom of the kit.
2. Remove the tire valve stem cap
from the flat tire by turning it counterclockwise.
3. Push the air-only hose (E) onto
the tire valve stem and push the lever down to secure in place.
4. Plug the air compressor
accessory plug (A) into an accessory power outlet in the vehicle. See Accessory Power Outlet(s) on page 4-9 for more information.
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6. Push the On/Off switch (G) to the
I (on) position. Check the pressure gage (F). If there is not a pressure reading while the compressor is running, check for leaks at the connection between the hose and the tire valve stem.
7. Inflate the tire up to the
recommended inflation pressure using the air pressure gage (F) on the top of the unit. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 9-46. The pressure gage (F) reads slightly high while the compressor is on. Turn the compressor off to get an accurate reading. The compressor may be turned on and off until the correct pressure is reached.
8. Push the On/Off switch (G) to the
O (off) position. Be careful while handling the tire sealant and compressor kit as they could be hot after usage.
9. Unplug the air compressor accessory plug (A) from the accessory power outlet in the vehicle and stow it in its original location.
10. Disconnect the air-only hose (E)
from the tire valve stem and stow it back in its original location.
11. Replace the tire valve stem cap.
{ CAUTION
Storing the tire sealant and compressor kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire sealant and compressor kit in its original location.
12. Place the equipment in the original location in the trunk of your vehicle.
{ CAUTION
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See Engine Exhaust on page 8-12.
5. Start the vehicle. The vehicle must be running while using the air compressor.
{ CAUTION
Overinflation could cause the tire to rupture, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
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Removal and Installation of the Sealant Canister To remove the sealant canister:
1. Unlock the air-only hose from the sealant canister by pulling up on the lever.
2. Pull the air-only hose from the
sealant canister.
3. Unwrap the sealant/air hose from
the compressor.
4. Turn the sealant canister so the
inflator filling hose is aligned with the slot in the compressor. 5. Lift the sealant canister from the
compressor and replace with a new sealant canister. Dispose of the sealant canister at a local dealer/retailer or in accordance with local state codes and practices. Replace it with a new canister, available form your dealer/retailer.
To install a new sealant canister: 1. Align the sealant/air hose
with the slot in the air compressor.
2. Push the sealant canister down
and turn it clockwise.
3. Wrap the sealant/air hose around
the air compressor channel to stow it in its original location.
4. Push the air compressor inflator
hose onto the sealant canister inlet and push the lever down.
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CAUTION (Continued)
3. Turn off the engine and do
not restart while the vehicle is raised.
4. Do not allow passengers to
remain in the vehicle.
To be certain the vehicle will not move, put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
Changing a Flat Tire (V6 Engine) If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. { CAUTION Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake
firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in
PARK (P).
(Continued)
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools Spare Tire The equipment you will need is located in the rear storage area. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk
on page 2-10.
2. Pull the handle of the spare
wheel cover strap straight up and secure to the trunk lid.
3. Turn the retainer nut
counterclockwise and remove the spare tire.
4. Place the spare tire next to the
tire being changed.
5. The jack and tools are stored
below the spare tire.
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Tools
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. If your vehicle has wheel bolt caps, remove the caps. Store the caps with the wheel cover.
2. Use the fully extended wheel
wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts one-half turn counterclockwise. Do not remove them yet.
A. Jack Handle B. Nut Cap Tool C. Wheel Wrench D. Jack
1. Turn the second retainer nut counterclockwise and remove the panel.
2. Remove the tools from the tool
container.
3. Place the tools next to the tire
being changed.
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Notice: Make sure that the jack lift head is in the correct position or you may damage your vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
4. Put the compact spare tire
near you.
{ CAUTION
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{ CAUTION
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
3. Position the jack lift head at the
jack location nearest the flat tire. The location is indicated by a mark on the bottom edge of the vehicle. The jack must not be used in any other positions. Raise the jack until it engages with the jacking point.
5. Fit the jack handle onto the jack by sliding the hook through the end of the jack.
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The jack handle must be unfolded at a right angle before it is used.
6. Raise the vehicle by turning the
jack handle clockwise 180°.
7. Pull the jack handle towards you. 8. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 until the
vehicle is far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.
9. Remove all of the wheel nuts and place them in a dry, clean place to avoid getting dirt in the threads.
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{ CAUTION
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire (V6 Engine) on page 9-71.
10. Remove any rust or dirt from
the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.
11. Place the compact spare tire on
the wheel-mounting surface.
{ CAUTION
Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts. Because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
12. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut as much as possible using the wheel wrench until the wheel is held firmly against the hub. Use your free hand to prevent the wheel from turning while you are tightening.
13. Lower the vehicle by turning the
jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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14. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in
a crisscross sequence, as shown.
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Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2 for the wheel nut torque specification.
{ CAUTION Incorrect or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2 for wheel nut torque specification.
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Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
{ CAUTION
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
To store a flat or spare tire and tools, do the following:
1. Replace the jack and tools as
shown.
A. Jack Handle B. Nut Cap Tool C. Wheel Wrench D. Jack
2. Turn the retainer nut clockwise to
tighten.
3. Remove the wheel center cap by
pushing it from the back.
4. Place the flat tire face up into the
spare tire hub.
5. Turn the retainer nut clockwise to
secure it into place.
6. Put the load floor back in place. The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible.
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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have the full-size tire repaired or replaced at your convenience. Of course, it is best to replace the spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again.
Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. And do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not fit. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare.
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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, try to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{ CAUTION
Ignoring these steps
Notice: could result in costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can
burn you.
(cid:129) They contain gas that can
explode or ignite.
(cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
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The positive jump start connection is covered by a red cap. Remove to expose the terminal. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must
have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s
Notice: system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Position the two vehicles so that
they are not touching.
The jump start positive (A) and negative posts (B) are located in the engine compartment on the driver side of the vehicle.
These posts are used instead of a direct connection to the battery.
3. Set the parking brake firmly and put the shift lever in PARK (P). See Shifting Into Park (Automatic Transmission) on page 8-10.
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If you leave your radio or
Notice: other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 4. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF
and switch off all lights and accessories in both vehicles, except the hazard warning flashers if needed.
{ CAUTION
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{ CAUTION
{ CAUTION
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Connect one end of the red positive (+) cable to the jump start positive (+) post (A).
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−)
cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−)
cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+)
cable from the other vehicle.
5. Return the caps over the
positive (+) and negative (–) terminals to their original positions.
jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine
Part or Remote Negative (–) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (–) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote
Positive (+) Terminal
6. Connect the other end of the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery (B).
7. Connect one end of the black
negative (–) cable to the negative (–) terminal of the good battery (C).
8. Connect the other end of the
black negative (–) cable to the negative (–) post (D).
9. Start the engine in the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine at idle speed for at least four minutes.
10. Try to start the vehicle that had
the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are
Notice: connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the
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Towing Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 12-6.
Shift Lock Manual Release The transmission has an electric park lock called a shift lock manual release. The key must be in the ON/RUN position, and the brake pedal pressed so the transmission gear selector can be moved from the P (Park) position. If the battery has lost power, the selector cannot be moved to neutral for towing unless the shift lock manual release is disengaged manually.
To access the shift lock manual release: 1. Apply the park brake. 2. Remove the console trim
panel (A) from the console. 2.1. Gently lift the back corners of the trim panel directly in front of the cupholders (C) until the two clips are released from the console. 2.2. Gently lift the console trim
panel from the rear until the four clips around the shift lever are released.
3. Raise the panel (A) no more than 2–3 inches (50–75 mm) to avoid disconnecting the wiring from the switches (B).
4. With the console trim panel
raised, remove the retainer (E) and the shift lock manual release cover plate (D).
5. Push and hold the manual release lever (F) toward the passenger side of the vehicle.
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Recreational Vehicle Towing Notice: Dolly towing or dinghy towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always put your vehicle on a flatbed truck. The vehicle was neither designed nor intended to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If the vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.
Towing a Trailer
{ CAUTION
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
6. Press the select button and move the transmission gear selector to the N (Neutral) position (G).
7. Release the lever (F). 8. After the vehicle has been moved, align the shift lock manual release cover plate (D) and install the retainer (E) so the automatic transmission can operate properly.
9. Place the trim panel (A) and the
wires in their original position and gently press down around the outside until it clicks in place.
10. Check the operation of the
switches (B) before operating the vehicle.
The transmission selector locks if it is moved back to the P (Park) position.
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Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. Also, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:129) There are many different laws,
including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:129) Consider using a sway control.
You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
(cid:129) Then, during the first 500 miles
(800 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full
throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:129) Use the Sport Shift mode and the
cruise control when towing. The Active Select (A/S) may also be used under light load conditions.
(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions
when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:129) The weight of the trailer. (cid:129) The weight of the trailer tongue. (cid:129) The total weight on your
vehicle’s tires.
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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 2,000 lbs (907 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted form the maximum trailer weight.
You can ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 12-4 for more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See
Loading the Vehicle on page 8-28
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-28. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: (cid:129) The rear bumper on your vehicle
is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
(cid:129) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 8-12. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle.
Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Trailer Wiring Harness All of the electrical circuits required for your trailer lighting system can be accessed at the driver’s side rear lamp connector. This connector is located under the carpet on the rear corner of the trunk compartment.
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Towing with the Electronic Stability Program (ESP®) When towing, the sound of the ESP modulator might be heard. The ESP is reacting to the vehicle movement caused by the trailer, which mainly occurs during cornering. This is normal when towing heavier trailers.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing More passing distance is needed up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because the vehicle is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane.
Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move the hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
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you have a trailer lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they are all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lamps, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lamps is out.
Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down to a lower gear and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer/retailer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug a trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lamps goes out. So, when
Parking on Hills
{ CAUTION
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do
not shift into P (Park) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks
under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in
place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes.
Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to P (Park).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 9-16.
Appearance Care Interior Cleaning Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from the upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior.
When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you: (cid:129) Start your engine. (cid:129) Shift into a gear. (cid:129) Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is
clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up
and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive
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Vehicle Service and Care
When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth. Notice: cleaners when cleaning glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.
If you use abrasive
Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your dealer/retailer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. You can also obtain a product from your dealer/retailer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:129) Never use a knife or any other
sharp object to remove a soil from any interior surface.
(cid:129) Never use a stiff brush. It can
cause damage to your vehicle’s interior surfaces.
(cid:129) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage the interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.
(cid:129) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps.
Avoid laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.
(cid:129) Do not heavily saturate the upholstery while cleaning.
(cid:129) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.
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Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:129) For liquids: gently blot the
remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.
(cid:129) For solid dry soils: remove as
much as possible and then vacuum.
To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white
cloth with water or club soda.
2. Wring the cloth to remove excess
moisture.
3. Start on the outside edge of the
soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.
4. Continue to gently rub the soiled
area until the cleaning cloth remains clean.
5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.
If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.
Leather A soft cloth dampened with water can be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on leather.
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Vehicle Service and Care
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner.
Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
Exterior Cleaning Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle” later in this section.
Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get approved cleaning products from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 9-99. If your vehicle has a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish, the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/ clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle.
2008 - Pontiac G8 Owner Manual
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
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9-95
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Wash with water or use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.
Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often. Do not wash the vehicle in direct sunlight. Use a car washing soap.
Notice: Certain cleaners contain chemicals that can damage the emblems or nameplates on your vehicle. Check the cleaning product label. If it states that it should not be used on plastic parts, do not use it on your vehicle or damage may occur and it would not be covered by the warranty. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based or that contain acid or abrasives, as they can damage the paint, metal or plastic on your vehicle. Approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer/retailer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 9-99. Follow all manufacturers’ directions regarding correct product usage, necessary safety precautions and appropriate disposal of any vehicle care product.
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Vehicle Service and Care
Rinse the vehicle well, before washing and after to remove all cleaning agents completely. If they are allowed to dry on the surface, they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle. Avoid using high pressure washes closer than 12 inches (30 cm) to the surface of the vehicle. Use of power washers exceeding 1,200 psi (8 274) can result in damage or removal of paint and decals. Notice: Conveyor systems on some automatic car washes could damage the vehicle. There may not be enough clearance for the undercarriage. Check with the car wash manager before using the automatic car wash.
Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See “Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index of the “Maintenance and Warranty and Owner assistance Information” manual. Wheels and Trim — Aluminum or Chrome Your vehicle may have either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep the wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied.
Notice: Chrome wheels and other chrome trim may be damaged if you do not wash your vehicle after driving on roads that have been sprayed with magnesium, calcium or sodium chloride. These chlorides are used on roads for conditions such as ice and dust. Always wash your vehicle’s chrome with soap and water after exposure. Notice: chemicals, abrasive polishes, cleaners, brushes, or cleaners that contain acid on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels, you could damage the surface of the wheel(s). The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use only approved cleaners on aluminum or chrome-plated wheels.
If you use strong soaps,
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your warranty. Never drive a vehicle equipped with aluminum or chrome-plated wheels through an automatic car wash that uses silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes.
Windshield and Wiper Blades Clean the outside of the windshield with glass cleaner. Clean the rubber blades using a lint free cloth or paper towel soaked with windshield washer fluid or a mild detergent. Wash the windshield thoroughly when cleaning the blades. Bugs, road grime, sap, and a buildup of vehicle wash/wax treatments may cause wiper streaking. Replace the wiper blades if they are worn or damaged.
Wipers can be damaged by: (cid:129) Extreme dusty conditions (cid:129) Sand and salt (cid:129) Heat and sun (cid:129) Snow and ice, without proper
removal
Tires To clean the tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Notice: Using chrome polish on aluminum wheels could damage the wheels. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Use chrome polish on chrome wheels only. Use chrome polish only on chrome-plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application. Notice: through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes, you could damage the aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. The repairs would not be covered by
If you drive your vehicle
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Vehicle Service and Care
Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan, and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer/retailer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on the vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, we will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
Sheet Metal Damage If the vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the vehicle warranty.
Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer/retailer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s/retailer’s body and paint shop.
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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
Description
Usage
Polishing Cloth
Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish
White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
Vinyl Cleaner
Glass Cleaner
Chrome Wheel Cleaner
Finish Enhancer
Swirl Remover Polish
Cleaner Wax
Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil, and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls and raised white lettering. Cleans vinyl. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on and wipe off. Removes swirl marks, fine scratches, and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish.
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Vehicle Service and Care
Description
Usage
Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss
Wash Wax Concentrate
Spot Lifter
Odor Eliminator
Cleans, shines, and protects tires. No wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl, and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet.
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Technical Data
10-1
Service Parts Identification Label This label is on the inside of the glove box. It is very helpful if you ever need to order parts. The label has the following information: (cid:129) Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN)
(cid:129) Model designation (cid:129) Paint information (cid:129) Production options and special
equipment
Do not remove this label from the vehicle.
Vehicle Identification Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver side. It can be seen through the windshield from outside the vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
Engine Identification The eighth character in the VIN is the engine code. This code helps identify the vehicle’s engine, specifications, and replacement parts. See “Engine Specifications” under Capacities and Specifications on page 10-2 for your vehicle’s engine code.
Technical Data
Vehicle Identification Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ..................10-1
Service Parts Identification Label ...........10-1Capacities and Specifications Capacities and Specifications ..................10-2
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Technical Data
Capacities and Specifications The following approximate capacities are given in English and metric conversions. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 11-12 for more information.
Application
Air Conditioning Refrigerant R134a
Automatic Transmission
5 Speed Automatic, 3.6L V6 Engine 6 Speed Automatic, 6.0L V8 Engine
Cooling System
3.6L V6 Engine 6.0L V8 Engine
Engine Oil with Filter
3.6L V6 Engine 6.0L V8 Engine
Capacities
English
Metric
For the air conditioning system refrigerant charge amount, see the refrigerant caution label located under the hood. See your dealer/retailer for more
information.
9.4 qt 12.4 qt
10.6 qt 11.6 qt
7.1 qt 8.8 qt
8.9 L 11.7 L
10.0 L 11.0 L
6.7 L 8.3 L
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Technical Data
10-3
Capacities
Application
Fuel Tank Wheel Nut Torque All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the approximate level, as recommended in this manual.
English 19.3 gal 125 lb ft
Metric 73.0 L 170 Y
Engine
VIN Code
Transmission
3.6L V6 Engine 6.0L V8 Engine
Automatic Automatic
Spark Plug Gap 0.043 in (1.10 mm) 0.040 in (1.02 mm)
Engine Specifications
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10-4
Technical Data
✍ NOTES
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Service and Maintenance
11-1
At Least Once a Year .....11-10
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants ...............11-12
Maintenance Replacement Parts ........11-13
Engine Drive Belt Routing ..........................11-14
Maintenance Record ........11-15Service and Maintenance Introduction Important: Keep engine oil at the proper level and change as recommended.
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer/retailer for details.
Service and Maintenance
Service and Maintenance Introduction .......................11-1
Maintenance Requirements ..................11-2
Your Vehicle and the Environment ....................11-2
Using the Maintenance Schedule .........................11-2
Scheduled Maintenance ....11-4
Additional Required Services ..........................11-6
Maintenance Footnotes .....11-7
Owner Checks and Services ..........................11-9
At Each Fuel Fill ...............11-9
At Least Once a Month ....11-92008 - Pontiac G8 Owner Manual
11-2
Service and Maintenance
Maintenance Requirements Notice: Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections, replacement parts, and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow scheduled maintenance might not be covered by warranty.
Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance is important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep
your vehicle in good condition, be sure to maintain your vehicle properly.
Using the Maintenance Schedule We want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we do not know exactly how you will drive it. You might drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you might drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You might use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you might drive it to work, to do errands, or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You might need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer/retailer.
This schedule is for vehicles that: (cid:129) carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 8-28.
(cid:129) are driven on reasonable road
surfaces within legal driving limits.
(cid:129) use the recommended fuel. See Gasoline Octane on page 8-33.
The services in Scheduled Maintenance on page 11-4 should be performed when indicated. See Additional Required Services
