2007 Pontiac G6 Owners Manual

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Speciﬁcations on page 424. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap.

V6 Engine

If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind.

Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.

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What Kind of Engine Oil to Use

These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.

Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API).

You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.

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Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M

Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30

As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle.

When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 212. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.

If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.

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How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system.

After changing the engine oil and ﬁlter, the system must be reset. To reset the oil life system, use the following procedure: 1. With the CHANGE OIL SOON message

displayed, press any of the three DIC buttons to clear the CHANGE OIL SOON message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 212.

2. Display OIL LIFE RESET on the DIC. 3. Press and hold the ENTER button for at least

one second. An ACKNOWLEDGED display message will appear for three seconds or until the next button is pressed. This will tell you the system has been reset. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 216.

4. Turn the ignition to OFF. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.

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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318
for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter.

What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help.

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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 431 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the cover on. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

cover and reconnect the electrical connector.

{CAUTION:

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off.

If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre

Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving.

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Automatic Transaxle Fluid (2.4L L4 and 3.5L V6 Engines) It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 434, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.6L Engine) When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 434, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

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Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the

shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to

ﬁve minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the front of the engine compartment.

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See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318
for more information on location. 1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean

rag or paper towel.

2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be within the crosshatched area.

4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range,

reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.

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How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than a half pint (0.24 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid (3.9L V6 Engine) When to Check and Change Automatic Transaxle Fluid A good time to check the automatic transaxle ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 434, and be sure to use the transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above

90°F (32°C).

In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.

(cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer.

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Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift

lever in PARK (P).

3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the

shift lever through each gear, pausing for about three seconds in each one. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

4. Let the engine run at idle for three to

ﬁve minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle ﬂuid dipstick handle has this symbol on it, and is located near the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for more information on location.

1. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean

rag or paper towel.

2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait

three seconds and then pull it back out again.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be within the crosshatched area.

4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range,

reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the crosshatched area on the dipstick. 1. Remove the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than a half pint (0.24 L). Do not overﬁll.

Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way.

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Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442 for the proper ﬂuid to use.

Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with hydraulic ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check the ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid.

See Owner Checks and Services on page 438
and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. How to Check and Add Fluid You do not need to check the ﬂuid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the ﬂuid level, take the cap off. If the ﬂuid reaches the step inside the reservoir, the ﬂuid level is correct. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for more information on location.

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Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 342.

A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to

−34°F (−37°C).

(cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they

should.

Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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If you use an improper coolant

Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442 for more information.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

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Checking Coolant

The engine coolant surge tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or slightly higher.

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If the pressure cap is not tightly

Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318
for more information on location.

Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 203.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the surge tank is empty, a special ﬁll procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 342 and Cooling System on page 345.

{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.

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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

{CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 344 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.

If your engine catches ﬁre because

Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 344 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.

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If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in

NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. The temperature gage will indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 325.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

3.5L V6 Engine shown, 2.4L L4, 3.6L V6 and

3.9L V6 Engines similar

A. Engine Cooling Fans B. Engine Coolant Surge Tank C. Pressure Cap

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The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark on the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 339 for more information.

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

347

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and

Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose.

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By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD mark.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318
for reservoir location.

2. Then keep turning

the pressure cap slowly, and remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper

mixture, to the FULL COLD mark. Wait about ﬁve minutes, then check to see if the level is below the mark. If the level is below the FULL COLD mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the FULL COLD mark for at least ﬁve minutes.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,

start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans.

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When to Check Power Steering Fluid Power steering ﬂuid is used in all vehicles with V6
engines. Vehicles with the 4-cylinder engine have electric power steering and do not use power steering ﬂuid. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless a leak is suspected in the system, or an unusual noise is heard. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine

compartment cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir

clean.

3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the

ﬂuid level on the dipstick.

The ﬂuid level should be within the crosshatched area on the dipstick. If the ﬂuid is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, add just enough ﬂuid to bring the level within the crosshatched area. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

350

Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer ﬂuid reservoir is low, a LOW WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 212 for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318
for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid.

(cid:127) Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only

three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in

your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

351

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If your vehicle has too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the BRAKE FLUID message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 212.

What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3
brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 442. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 408.

(cid:127)

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

354

Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

355

Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 356 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

356

Ignoring these steps could result in

Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a

12-volt battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

357

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find

the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 318 for more information on location.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

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5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

359

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. If the security light ﬂashes, wait until the light stops ﬂashing.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery

and run the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C. Dead Battery

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from

the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 368. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

361

Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws that secure the

headlamp assembly.

A. Front Sidemarker B. Front Turn Signal/Parking Lamp C. Low-Beam Headlamp D. High-Beam Headlamp

362

2. Loosen the front fascia by removing the

plastic push pins along the top of the tie bar by prying under the fasteners with a tool.

3. Pull back the front fascia then pull the headlamp assembly forward, out of the vehicle. You need to pry the headlamp assembly away from the fender. This frees the ball stud from its retainer in the fender bracket. You might want someone to assist you with the removal of the headlamp assembly to avoid possible damage to the vehicle.

4. Remove the bulb access cover by turning it

counterclockwise.

5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull out the bulb assembly.

6. Disconnect the bulb socket from the wiring

harness for headlamps. For the front turn signal/parking or sidemarker bulbs, unclip the bulb from the socket.

7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reinstall the

bulb assembly and headlamp assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Sedan) To replace a center high-mounted stoplamp (CHMSL) bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk lid. See Trunk on page 113 for

more information.

2. Locate the center high-mounted stoplamp

(CHMSL) on the inside of the trunk lid.

3. Unclip the wiring harness by using a tool to

disengage the connector.

4. Remove the cover by pressing the tabs at

either end with a tool.

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5. Remove the bulb by turning it

counterclockwise. 6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 3 through 5 to reinstall the

bulb assembly.

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Retractable Hardtop and Coupe) If your vehicle has this component and it needs replacement, it is recommended that it be replaced as a unit by your dealer.

364

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Sedan)

A. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal B. Sidemarker Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 113

for more information.

2. Remove the convenience net, if the vehicle

has one.

3. Remove the wing nuts holding the trunk trim.

7. Pull the bulb from the socket. 8. Install a new bulb. 9. Reverse Steps 2 through 7 to reinstall the

taillamp assembly.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Coupe)

4. Remove the two nuts, which hold the taillamp

assembly, from inside the vehicle.

5. Remove the taillamp assembly. 6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove.

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

365

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 113

for more information.

2. Remove the convenience net, if the vehicle

has one.

5. Pull the assembly off to the side to release it

from the rear of the vehicle.

6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove.

7. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 8. Install a new bulb. 9. Reverse Steps 3 through 5 to reinstall the

taillamp assembly.

3. Remove the two wing nuts from the trunk trim

to expose the hex nuts.

4. Remove the three hex nuts retaining the

taillamp assembly.

366

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps (Retractable Hardtop)

A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp C. Back-up Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 113

for more information.

2. Locate the three rubber covers in the trunk trim,

near the taillamp assembly and remove them. 3. Remove the two nuts and one bolt retaining

the taillamp assembly.

4. Pull off the assembly to the side to release it

from the vehicle.

5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to

remove.

6. Pull the bulb from the bulb socket. 7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to reinstall the

taillamp assembly.

367

4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the

lamp assembly.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-up Lamp

Coupe and Retractable Hardtop

Sedan

Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)

Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamp

Front/Rear Sidemarker Lamp

921

3057K

912***

3157KX

194

License Plate Lamp To replace the license plate lamp bulb, do the following:

1. Remove the two screws holding the license

plate lamp assembly to the fascia.

2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward

through the fascia opening.

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and

pull the bulb straight out of the socket.

368

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

License Plate Lamp

Headlamps

High-Beam

Low-Beam

Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamp

Sidemarker, Stoplamp, Taillamp and Turn Signal Lamp

*Coupe and Sedan only **Retractable Hardtop only ***Sedan Only

168

H9

H11

3057K*

3157K**

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 431 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm connector away

from the windshield.

2. Squeeze the grooved areas on each side of

the blade, and rotate the blade assembly away from the arm connector.

369

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly

used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

3. Install the new blade onto the arm connector

and make sure the grooved areas are fully set in the locked position.

For the proper type and size, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 443.

370

CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same

danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 379.

(cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.

If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See High-Speed Operation on page 381 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires,

Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire If your vehicle has P225/50R18 or P225/50R17 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.

371

Winter Tires If your vehicle has P225/50R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. The low-proﬁle performance tires may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise and shorter tire tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your retailer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 383.

If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on

all four wheel positions.

(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load

range, and speed rating as your original equipment tires.

Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

372

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

373

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 386.

(G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

374

Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 403 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 390.

(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 379.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

375

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

376

Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 379.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

377

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 379 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 288. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

378

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 383.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 386.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 288.

Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy

If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 288. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.

379

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 403. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

380

High-Speed Operation

{CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inﬂation pressure for the vehicle load.

Set the cold tire inﬂation pressure to 35 psi (241 kPa) for the front and rear tires, when operating your vehicle at high-speed conditions. When you end high-speed driving return the tires to the cold inﬂation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288 and Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 379.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 383 and Wheel Replacement on page 388 for more information.

381

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 431.

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 424.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 390.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label.

382

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more

places around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through

the tire’s rubber.

(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or

snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

(cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage

that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched speciﬁc tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical speciﬁcations that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer.

383

If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 372 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, as it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 403.

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 288, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

384

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM speciﬁc wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certiﬁed technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 383 and Accessories and Modiﬁcations on page 308 for additional information.

385

Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

386

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive

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2007 Pontiac G6 Owners Manual