1998 Oldsmobile Aurora Owners Manual

Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you'll need is in the trunk. Instructions for changing your tires are on the inside of the tire cover. You can rest the cover near you for easy reference while you change the tire. 1. Lift the tire cover to gain access to the spare tire and

jacking equipment.

2. Remove the wheel wrench and jack from the

jack container.

3. Remove the spare tire from the trunk.

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U

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and the wheel wrench (B).

Insert the hooked end of the wheel wrench in one of the two small notches in the center cover and pry the cover off. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could be scratched or damaged.

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

3. Turn the wheel wrench to the left by hand to lower

the jack head until it fits under the vehicle.

1. Position the wheel wrench securely over the wheel

nuts to loosen, but don’t remove them.

2. Attach the wheel wrench to the bolt on the end of the

jack to create a jack handle.

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-I

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

1 13.5 INCHES I

4. Near each wheel well is a notch in the frame to

position the jack head. You’ll find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch. Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack head until it fits firmly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare near you.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5-28

5. Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to the right on the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there’s enough room for the spare tire to fit.

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

8. Place the spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.

9. Replace the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut cannot be tightened by hand, use the wrench, and see your retailer right away.

11. Using the wheel

wrench, tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

1 CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 Nom).

10. Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to

the left on the jack. Lower the jack completely.

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Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

A CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

I NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

12. Then replace the wheel cover. Be sure to position

the alignment pin on the cover with the notch in the wheel. Apply pressure around the edge of the cap to snap it in place. Do not use a hammer or mallet to install the cover. Don’t try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have replaced the compact spare tire with a regular tire.

I NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

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Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk. For storage, the jack must be raised until the screw end is flush with the edge of the jack. Storing the Spare Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly.

A SPARE TIRE COVER

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Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic vehicle wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

NOTICE:

~-

~~~~

~~~

~~

~~~

~~

~~

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your fiont wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

& NOTES

b NOTES

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@ Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

6-2 6-3 6- 8 6- 8 6-11 6- 15 6-18 6-2 1 6-26 6-28 6-3 1 6-33 6-36 6-43 6-5 1

Service Fuel Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Air Cleaner Automatic Transaxle Fluid Engine Coolant Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Headlamp Aiming Tires Appearance Care

6-5 1 6-55 6-57 6-57 6-58 6-59 6-60 6-64 6-70 6-70 6-7 1 6-7 1 6-7 1 6-72

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Electrical System Removing the Rear Seat Cushion Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Engine Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Vehicle Dimensions

6-1

Service Your retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your retailer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Genuine

Parts

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper Aurora Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your retailer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for best performance. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle may not accelerate as well. At a minimum, the gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91 (at least 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines . containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

I NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Aurora retailer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Aurora retailer for service.

6-4

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

Filling Your Tank

,A CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

6-5

The cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle. The remote fuel door release can help keep your fuel tank from being siphoned. Always be sure the fuel door is closed and latched after refueling.

To open the fuel door (on the driver's side of the vehicle), press the button next to the trunk release button, to the right of the steering column. The ignition does not need to be on. The remote fuel door release will work in all transaxle positions.

The fuel door can be opened manually in case of an electrical power failure. To do so, first open the trunk. The release mechanism is on the driver's side of the vehicle, at the top of the trunk compartment. Pull the tab toward you to release the fuel door.

NOTICE:

Prying on a locked fuel filler door could damage it. Use the remote fuel door manual release located in the trunk.

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To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered cap from the hook on the fuel door.

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

6-7

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

FYng a Portable Fuel Container

I-

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.

CAUTION: (Continued)

6-8

Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

Checking Things Under the Hood

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

I A CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

The following sections tell you how to check fluids, lubricants and important parts underhood. Hood Release

To open the hood, first pull the hood release handle inside the vehicle, located to the left of the steering wheel under the instrument panel.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the underhood release. Lift the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it f i i y .

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4.0L Engine When you open the hood, you'll see:

A. Remote Positive (+)

Battery Terminal

B. Windshield Washer

fluid Reservoir

C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Engine Oil Dipstick E Brake Fluid Reservoir

G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid

Dipstick (behind air cleaner) H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank I. Air Cleaner

Engine Oil

7 3 OIL

If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message or the oil warning light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “Check Oil Level Message” or “Oil Pressure Warning Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the 02 must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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I

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOWEST

HOT

WEATHER

/ O F

OC'

+ l o o -

t38

+EO-

t27

+ 1 6

+60-

+ 4 0 - - + 4

+ 2 0 - - - 7

-1

0 - - - 1 8 I

111. SAE 1 d - 3 0 PREFERRED above IPF

(-l WC)

-I

SAE 5W-30

\ W I

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE low-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it's going to be colder than 60°F ( 16 " C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils. such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines "Starburst" symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29"C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your retailer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has an Oil Life Indicator. The Oil Life Indicator will let you know when to change your oil and filter -- usually between 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and 7,500 miles (12 500 km) since your last oil change. Under severe conditions, the indicator may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km). Never drive your vehicle more than 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change. The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the Oil Life Indicator when the oil has been changed. For more information, see “Oil Life Indicator” in the Index. How to Reset the Oil Life Indicator Always reset the engine oil life to 100 percent after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the OIL LIFE reminder, do the following: 1. With the ignition on, press the ENG button so the

OIL LIFE percentage is displayed.

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2. Press RESET and hold for five seconds. The word

RESET will appear, then OIL LIFE 100 % will be displayed.

What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your retailer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Air Cleaner To check or replace the air filter:

1. Remove the radiator hose from the resonator channel.

2. Release the tension of the wing screw clamp on the air intake hose where it attaches to the air cleaner cover near the top of the engine. Just turn the wing screw to the left, then detach the hose from the air cleaner cover.

3. To remove the air cleaner cover, push the hose and resonator assembly rearward and up, and hold them out of the way.

4. There’s a temperature sensor on the corner of the air

cleaner cover. Release the sensor’s electrical connector retainer, and pull up.

5. Unsnap the two clamps by pushing down on the top of the air cleaner cover and pushing in on the clamps toward the center of the cover. Then remove the cover.

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I

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

1 NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

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6. Remove the air filter. 7. Install the new air filter and reverse all steps to

reinstall the cover, electrical wires, hose and clamp. Be sure the tabs of the air cleaner cover fit into the slots of the air cleaner housing. Then make sure both clamps are fully engaged.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Aurora retail facility Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

fire. Be sure to

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 1 80°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

0 With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overjill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push

the dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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J

Engine Coolant The cooling s stem in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km) whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL’ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).

0 Give boiling protection up to 265 “F (129 “C).

Protect against rust and corrosion.

0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or engine coolant will require change sooner -- at radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your retailer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

~~

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Checking Coolant

A CAUTION:

Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

The engine coolant surge tank is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment.

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher.

If the message LOW ENGINE COOLANT is displayed on your driver information center, it means you’re low on engine coolant.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.

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A CAUTION:

1 1 Power Steering Fluid

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is tight. Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, a GM thermostat is recommended.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How To Check F wer Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

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Adding Washer Fluid

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

if freezing occurs,

There are two windshield washer fluid tanks. The upper tank (shown above) will empty first. When the lower tank contains 0.5 quarts (0.5 liters) or less, the message LOW WASHER FLUID will be displayed on the Driver Information Center. Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out

in the

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of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See “Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

(GM Part

NOTICE:

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your braKe system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage just a few brake system parts. For example, drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

A CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your bralung system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Every new Aurora has an ACDelco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label.

The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.

A CAUTION:

A battery that isn’t properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.

Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your retailer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature’’ in the Index.

To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).

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Exterior Front Bulbs

Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your retailer’s service department. For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs

‘ A CAUTION: A

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

A. Front Turn Signal

B. Headlamps

The entire front headlamp assembly must be removed to replace the headlamps and front turn signal bulbs. You may find it easier to remove the air cleaner assembly when replacing bulbs on the driver’s side. If more hand clearance is required, remove the air cleaner assembly as instructed in Steps 1 through 3 earlier in this section.

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Low-Beam Headlamp Bulbs If you need to replace a low-beam headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the two bolts and pull out the headlamp

assembly for more hand clearance.

3. Unclip the bulb

assembly from the wiring harness and replace the bulb.

I I

4. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to replace the bulb assembly, headlamp housing, air cleaner cover and tube.

5. Replace the headlamp assembly by aligning the pin

and tightening the two bolts to secure it.

2. Twist the bulb assembly one-sixth of a turn to the

left and pull out the bulb assembly.

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High-Beam Headlamp Bulbs If you need to replace a high-beam headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the headlamp assembly if you need more

hand clearance.

2. Pull up on the wiring harness. This unlocks the bulb.

4. To replace the bulb, angle the new bulb into the

empty socket.

5. Push the base of the bulb down to lock it into place. 6. If you removed the headlamp assembly, reassemble it by aligning the pin and tightening the two bolts to secure it.

2.

3. 4.

3. Now you can reach in behind the lamp housing and

pull out the bulb.

Front Turn Signal The turn signal bulb is on the inboard edge of the headlamp assembly. To replace a bulb, do the following: 1.

Remove the headlamp assembly if you need more hand clearance. Reach in and press the locking tab while twisting the bulb assembly one-quarter of a turn to the left (counterclockwise). Replace the bulb and reverse Step 2 to reassemble. If you removed the headlamp assembly, reassemble it by aligning the pin and tightening the two bolts to secure it.

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0 Tires should be properly inflated.

Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspension.

~ NOTICE:

To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.

For the vertical adjustment, state inspection stations generally will allow a reading of plus 0.76 degrees or minus 0.76 degrees from the center of the bubble. It is recommended that the upper limit not exceed plus 0.4 degrees from the center of the bubble. Other drivers may flash their high beams at you if your adjustment is much above plus 0.4 degrees.

Headlamp Aiming Your vehicle has the composite headlamp system. These headlamps have horizontal and vertical aim indicators. The aim has been pre-set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident and the headlamp aim seems to be affected, see your retailer. Headlamps on damaged vehicles may require recalibration of the horizontal aim by your retailer. To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. There should not be any cargo or loading of the vehicle, except it should have a full tank of gas and one person or 160 lbs. (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.

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If you find that the headlamp aiming needs adjustment, follow these steps: Start with the vertical headlamp aim. Don't try to adjust the horizontal aim first. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx@socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.

1. Check the vertical aim for each headlamp. The

vehicle must be parked on a level surface. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the bubble in the level is centered at 0 (zero).

2. After the vertical aim is correct, check the horizontal

aim for each headlamp and adjust as necessary. Turn the horizontal aiming screw until the pointer is lined up with the 0 (zero).

3. Visually recheck the vertical aim, to make sure it is

still correct after the horizontal aim adjustment. Readjust, if necessary.

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Exterior Rear Bulbs For the type of bulb to use, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.

Taillamps

1. In the trunk, remove the convenience net from the hooks. Next remove the plastic screws holding the carpeting in place and pull back the carpeting.

A. Rear n r n Signal

B. Taillamps

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2.

Unscrew the convenience net attachment nut. Open the trim panel door.

3.

Remove the two wing nuts now exposed.

4. Remove the taillamp filler screw located to the side

of the taillamp filler panel.

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Back-up Lamps

To replace a back-up lamp, do the following: 1. Remove the license plate to expose the bulb cover.

5. Pull out the taillamp assembly to reach the bulb and

pull it out. To replace, push the bulb back in.

6. Reverse Steps 1 through 5 to replace the taillamp

filler, wing nuts and carpeting.

Rear lhrn Signal The rear turn signal bulb is located on the outboard edge of the taillamp assembly. Follow the taillamp procedure for replacing a turn signal bulb.

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2. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts. There are two bolts on each side of the cover.

3. Pry off the cover and pull down to access the bulbs. 4. Press the locking tab of the bulb assembly.

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Interior Lamps Front and Rear Reading Lamps To change the bulbs in the front and rear reading lamps, do the following: 1. Carefully insert a flat head screwdriver in the slot

between the lens cover and molding.

2. Gently pry the lens cover away to expose the reading

lamp bulb. The lens cover should pop off.

3. Remove the bulb from its assembly and install a

new bulb.

4. Snap the lens cover back in place.

5. Twist the socket one-quarter of a turn to the left

(counterclockwise) and pull to remove.

6. Replace the bulb and reverse Steps 1 through 4 to

replace the assembly and tighten the bolts.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm. For the proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Aurora Warranty booklet for details.

Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. Here’s how to remove the type with a release hole: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from

the windshield.

2. Insert a small screwdriver into the hole (A) and pull the blade assembly off the wiper arm (B).

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. 0 Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

I

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden

impact -- such as when you hit a pothole.

Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Tire-Loading Information label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

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NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat

0 Tire overloading

Bad wear

0 Bad handling

Bad fuel economy.

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 Wa).

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

- Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:

You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.

e The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

e The tire has a bump, bulge or split. e The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire-Loading Information label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires

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depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.

The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the

wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your retailer if any of these conditions exist. lour retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your Aurora model.

T '

'Y:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Tire Chains

NOTICE:

Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Gasoline Benzene Naphtha Carbon Tetrachloride Acetone Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner Nail Polish Remover

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol Laundry Soap Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Your retailer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your retailer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

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3.

4.

5 .

Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. 2.

Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on the container label to form thick suds. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

6. 7. Special Fabric -lea-ing Problems Stains caused by such thmgs as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior

cleaner instructions described earlier.

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3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to I cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry

completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for

Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your retailer for this product.

Cleaning Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

9 CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.

For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your retailer for this product. Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge, Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

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Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield,

Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon Ami@ Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 105001 1. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)

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Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your retailer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior LampsLenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your retailer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

I NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatlclearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

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Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

1 NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your car. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

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Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Oldsmobile will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your retailer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your retailer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your retailer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Appearance Care Materials Chart

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) I I r n l l l l l I 111 111111 IIII 11l1111111111I IIIIIIII 11111111 1111IIII I IIIIIII E N G l N E A 6 9 8 7 \ ASSEMBLY

CODE

MODEL YEAR

PLANT

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the