1996 Oldsmobile Aurora Owners Manual

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your Aurora’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. 4-14

._

If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

Driving at Night

Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night, They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

r 3 - -

Driving in Rain and an Wet Roads

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes itre tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them,

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips 0 Turn on your low-beam headlamps -- not just your parking lamps -- to help make you more visible to others.

0 Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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~-

reeway Drivi

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

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The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Aurora retailers all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

Hignway nypnws Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check alkfluid levels and also the brakes, tires., cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads. Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

If you don't shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash.. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

I .

do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. Shift down to THIRD (3). This will help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better. In hilly terrain, you-may want to switch to the POWER mode for better performance. ' Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at.speeds that let you stay in your own lane. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving: 0 Have your Aurora in good shape for winter. 0 You may want to put winter emergency supplies in

your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0” C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See “Traction Control System” in the Index.

If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a. hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index. 0 Allow greater following distance on any slippery

road.

0 Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: 0 Turn on your hazard flashers.

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0 Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

. you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anytbmg you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

A CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. Thiscan cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

OCCUPANTS

VEHICLE CAP. WT.

FRT. CTR. RR.

TOTAL LBS.

KG

MAX. LOADING & GVWR SAME AS VEHICLE CAPACITY

COLD TIRE

WEIGHT TIRE SIZE

XXX SPEED PRESSURE

RTG PSI/KPa

FRT. RR. SPA. IF TIRES ARE HOT, ADD 4PS1/28KPa SEE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL

\I N FOR MAT1 0 N

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver’s door tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressure for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.

MFDBYGENERALMOTORSCORP DATE GVWR GAWR FRT GAWR RR

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLI- CABLE U.S. FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF

MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE. i

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, or it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

The other label is the Certification label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front of rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 176 lbs. (80 kg) in your trunk. The electronic level control automatically keeps the rear of the vehicle level as you load or unload your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

If you put things inside your vehicle- like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

0 Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in

your vehicle.

0 When you carry something inside the

vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

Towing a Trailer

u C! UTTON:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the

and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your Aurora retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Electronic Level Control This feature keeps the rear of your vehicle level as the load changes. It is automatic -- you don’t need to adjust anything.

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your Aurora retailer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine. axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers (or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h)) to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your retailer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:

Customer Assistance Representative Oldsmobile Central Office 920 Townsend Street P.O. Box 30095 Lansing, MI 48909

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

A

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

. & l

T”-!ight un Iuur Vehicle’s 1

Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the recommended pressure for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too. The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to * : bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

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Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle may have bulb warning messages. When you plug a trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning messages may not let you know if one of your lamps goes out. So, when you have a trailer lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they’re all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lamps, the bulb warning messages again can tell you if one of your vehicle lamps is out.

Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1.

Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

Start your engine; Shift into a gear; and Release the parking brake.

2. 3. 4.

Let up on the brake pedal. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

NOTES

NOTES

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Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you'll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road. Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

Press down on the button located on top of the steering column, then release it to turn on the hazard warning flashers.

5-1

The HAZARD light on the instrument panel will also come on.

NOTICE:

HAZARD A

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Aurora by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you.

0 They contain gas that can explode or ignite.

They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Your hazard flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in. To turn off the flashers, press the button down again. When the flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Aurora. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

I NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Aurora, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicle rolls. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlet. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio.

I NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

5-3

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

5. Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery or remote terminal. You should always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on your battery. To open the remote positive (+) terminal box, pull the tab and open the cover.

4. Open the hoods and locate the other vehicle’s battery

and the Aurora’s remote positive (+) jump starting terminal in the box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Your Aurora’s battery isn’t under the hood.)

I

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with 1 water and get medical help immediately.

6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.

5-5

7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the

remote positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.

8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to

the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

9. Now connect the

black negative (-) cable to the good battery's negative (-) terminal.

Don't let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn't go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

10.

11.

Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while.

12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

13. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.

- +

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B . Good Battery C. Dead Battery

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle can only be towed from the front with sling type equipment.

0 That your vehicle has front-wheel drive. 0 The make, model and year of your vehicle. 0 Whether you can still move the shift lever.

If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

To help avoid injury to you or others: 0 Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is

being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured.

0 Never get under your vehicle after it has

been lifted by the tow truck.

0 Always secure the vehicle on each side with

separate safety chains when towing it.

0 Never use J-hooks. Use T-hooks instead.

5-9

I.\ CAUTION:

- -

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots. Never use J-hooks. They will damage drivetrain and suspension components.

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key turned to the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transaxle should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released. Don’t have your vehicle towed on the drive wheels, unless you must. If the vehicle must be towed on the drive wheels, be sure to follow the speed and distance restrictions later in this section or your transaxle will be damaged. If these limitations must be exceeded, then the drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

Front Towing

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or fascidfog lamp damage will occur. Use wheel-lift or car carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

5-11

These slots are to be used when loading and securing to car carrier equipment.

Attach T-hook chains on both sides, in the slotted holes in the bottom of the body rail, behind the front wheels and cradle.

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

NOTICE:

Be sure not to attach the safety chain to the drive axle. This could cause damage to the drive axle boot.

Rear Towing TQW Limits -- 55 mph (88 kmlh), 500 miles (800 h)

Attach T-hook chains to the T-hook slots in the floor pan supportrails just ahead of the rear wheels on both sides.

Position the lower sling crossbar just ahead of the front edge oi the rear bumper.

5-13

Attach a separate safety chain around the outboard end of each lower control arm.

h g

Engine Overh You will find a coolant temperature gage on your Aurora’s instrument panel. Your information center will also display messages about engine overheating. See “Coolant Temperature Gage” in the Index.

-.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode Should a low coolant condition exist and the message HOT STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of four cylinders helps prevent engine damage. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.

NOTICE:

After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil may be severely degraded. Change the oil and reset the oil life indicator. See “Engine Oil, When to Change” in the Index.

lP Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before opening the hood. is If you keep driving when your engine overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

You

I NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode’’ in the Index.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.

Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (0) or THIRD (3).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for two or three minutes while you’re parked, to see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn ofSthe engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

An electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Two Electric Engine Cooling Fans

A C,’ UT’O’‘:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage if you keep running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine fan(s) are running. If the engine is overheating, both fan(s) should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service.

The coolant level should be indicated by a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-18

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at FULL COLD, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are tank pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge

out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to ever have to turn the pressure cap.

cool if you

3 - 1 Y

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL TM antifreeze.

I NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. So use the recommended coolant.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly about one-quarter turn to the left and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-21

I

I I

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mix,

up to FULL COLD.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the

engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fans. By this time, the coolant level inside The coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches FULL COLD.

5-23

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

I /d CAUTIO,

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side vehicle, at the opposite end.

of the

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

The equipment you'll need is in the trunk. Instructions for changing your tires are on the inside of the tire cover. You can rest the cover near you for easy reference while you change the tire.

5-25

Turn the spare tire retainer bolt counterclockwise and remove the retainer assembly.

Remove the wheel wrench and

jack from the jack container.

Remove the spare tire from the trunk.

A

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A) and the wheel wrench (B).

Insert the hooked end of the wheel wrench in one of the two small notches in the center cover and pry the cover off. Do not drop the cover or lay it face down, as it could be scratched or damaged. Do not use a hammer or mallet to install the cover when replacing the cover after the wheel is put back on the vehicle.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire

2. Insert the pointed end of the wheel wrench into the

slot on the jack to create a jack handle.

3. Turn the end of the jack

clockwise by hand to raise the jack head a few inches.

1. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the wheel nuts, but

don’t remove them.

CF

I- I 11 INCHES -1 ( 2 8 C M ) &

-1z

INCHES ( 1 9 C M )

4. Near each wheel well is a notch in the frame to

position the jack head. You'll find the word JACK and an arrow stamped into the plastic near each notch. Position the jack under the vehicle and raise the jack head until it fits firrnly against the sheet metal next to the word JACK. Do not raise the vehicle yet. Put the compact spare near you.

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

NOTICE:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

7. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

5. Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

clockwise in the jack. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there’s enough room for the spare tire to fit.

6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

8. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

9. Replace the wheel nuts

with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.

10. Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench

counterclockwise on the jack. Lower the jack completely.

5-31

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

12. Then replace the wheel cover. Be sure to position

the alignment pin on the cover with the notch in the wheel. Apply pressure around the edge of the cap to snap it in place. Don’t try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It won’t fit. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have replaced the compact spare tire with a regular tire.

1 NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get the right kind. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the’ nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 N-m).

5-32 .

Storing the Flat Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

' I

Store the flat tire as far forward in the trunk as possible. Store the jack and wheel wrench in their compartment in the trunk.

~~

..

5-33

Storing the Spare Tire and Tools The compact spare tire is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section. See the storage instructions label to replace your compact spare into your trunk properly.

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 P a ) . After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at posted speed limits for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 krn), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare

tire and its wheel together. ITICE:

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. (See “Traction Control System” in the Index.) Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

NOTES

NOTES

@ Section 6 Service and Appearance Care I I

Here you will find information about the care of your Aurora. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care. Service Your Aurora retailer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your retailer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people.

We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

@ @ ! I ” n

Delco

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper Aurora Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your Aurora than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Aurora” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, and the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Fuel Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet Specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91. If the octane is less than 91, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. (In an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane -- as low as 87 -- if heavy knocking does not occur.) If you’re using 91 or higher octane unleaded gasoline and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle

may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized Aurora retailer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some Canadian gasolines contain an octane enhancing additive called methlycyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). If such fuels are used, your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Aurora retailer for service. To provide cleaner air, all gasolines are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries Lf you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

The cap is behind a hinged d0.w on the left side of your vehicle. The remote fuel door release can help keep your fuel tank from being siphoned. Always be sure the fuel door is closed and latched after refueling.

To open the fuel door (on the left of the vehicle), press the button next to the trunk release button, to the right of the steering column. The ignition does not need to be on. The remote fuel door release will work in all transaxle positions.

Filling Your Tank

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The fuel door can be opened manually in case of an electrical power failure. To do so, first open the trunk. The release mechanism is on the driver’s side of the vehicle, at the top of the trunk compartment. Pull the tab toward you to release the fuel door.

NOTICE:

Prying on a locked fuel filler door could damage it. Use the remote fuel door manual release located in the trunk.

While refueling, hang the cap inside the fuel door. Twist it clockwise to secure it, if necessary. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).

I If you get gasoline on yourself and then i something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Aurora” in the Index.

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear at least three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

To open the hood, first pull the hood release handle inside the vehicle, located to the left of the steering wheel under the instrument panel.

Check'-g Thiry Under the Hood

Hood Release

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Things that burn can L on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

The following sections tell you how to check fluids, lubricants and important parts underhood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the underhood release. Lift the hood.

When you open the hood, you’li see:

A. Remote Positive Battery Terminal B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir C . Power Steering Fluid Reservoir D. Engine Oil Fill Cap E. Engine Oil Dipstick

E Brake Fluid Reservoir G. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick

(behind air cleaner)

H. Engine Coolant Surge Tank I. Air Cleaner

6-9

Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

Engine Oil

OIL

If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message or the oil warning light on the instrument panel comes on, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.

For more information, see “Check Oil Level Message” or “Oil Pressure Warning Light” in the Index. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

RECOMMENOEO SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COUl STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR ME EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANBE.

,- SAE

1UW-30

PREFERRED . ~, above 0°F

1-18"Q

SAL 5w-30

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER G W E OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

HOT

WEATHER I "F

OI

+ 3

+ i

+ l

t 4

- 7

- 1

+ 100

t 20 :::

WEATHER

As shown in the chart, SAE 1OW-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it's going to be colder than 60" F (1 6 O C) before your next oil change. When it's very cold, you should use SAE 5W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines "Starburst" symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. -. Engirn v ~ l AUUlLl V GI Don't add anything to your oil. Your Aurora retailer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first. (See “Change Oil Message” in the Index.) If the CHANGE OIL NOW message appears in the Driver Information Center, you should change your oil. If none of them is true, change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever

occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. (See “Change Oil Message” in the Index.) Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your retailer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Air Cleaner To Check or Replace the Air Filter:

1. Remove hose from resonator channel.

2. Release tension of the wing screw clamp on the air intake duct where it attaches to the air cleaner cover near the top of the engine. Just turn the wing screw counterclockwise, then detach the duct from the air cleaner cover.

3. Push the duct and resonator assembly rearward and

up, and hold out of the way.

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4. There’s a temperature sensor on the corner of the air

cleaner cover. Use a screwdriver to release the sensor’s electrical connector retainer, and pull up.

5. Unsnap the two clamps by pushing down on the top of the air cleaner cover and pushing in on the clamps toward the center of the cover. Then remove the cover.

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Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

6. Remove the air filter. 7. Install the new air filter and reverse all steps to

reinstall the cover, electrical wires, duct and clamp. Be sure the tabs of the air cleaner cover fit into the slots of the air cleaner housing. Then make sure both clamps are fully engaged.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90 O F (32 O C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

0 When doing frequent trailer towing. 0 Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require changing. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Aurora retailer Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32 " C ) .

At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200" F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (lO"C), you may have to drive longer.

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).

With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. Pull out the

dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the

lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1.

Pull out the dipstick. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.

L.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL TM (orange-colored, silicate-free) engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and the proper coolant for your Aurora will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).