1998 GMC Savana Owners Manual

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

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Service Fuel (Gasoline Engine) Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine) Filling a Portable Fuel Container Checking Things Under the Hood Noise Control System Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) Air Cleaner (Gasoline Engines) Automatic Transmission Fluid Rear Axle Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Thermostat Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery

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Bulb Replacement Halogen Bulbs Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped) Cleaning Tires Sheet Metal Damage Finish Damage Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VJN) Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Genuine

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index. Your vehicle may have an air bag system. If it does, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle’’ in the Index before attempting to do your own service work. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

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You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Fuel (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel Requirements and Fuel System” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this. Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D4814 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.

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To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines) If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Filling Your Tank (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

A CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

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While refueling your vehicle, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the filler door.

To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

If’ you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: 0 Dispense gasoline only into approved

containers.

0 Do not fill a container while it is inside a

vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. 0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.

0 Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

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To open the hood, first pull this handle inside the vehicle. It is just in front of the driver’s side door frame near the floor.

Checking Things Under the Hood A CAUTION:

If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary engine fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

CAUTION:

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline or diesel fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

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Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood hinge. The underhood lamp will automatically come on and stay on until the hood is closed.

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When you lift the hood, you’ll see these items:

A. Battery B. Coolant Recovery I ank C . Engine Oil Dipstick

D. Engine Oil Fill E. Transmission Dipstick E Air Cleaner

G. Power Steering Reservoir H. Brake Master Cylinder I. Windshield Washer Fluid

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If your vehicle has a 7.4 liter engine and air conditioning, your vehicle will have a auxiliary engine fan in addition to the belt driven fan. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just let the hood down and close it firmly. Noise Control System The following information relates to compliance with Federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your Warranty booklet. These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the United States.

Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: 1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person,

other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or

2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Insulation: 0 Removal of the noise shields or underhood insulation. Engine: 0 Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if

equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.

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Fan and Drive:

Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative. Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).

Air Intake: 0 Removal of the air cleaner silencer.

Reversing the air cleaner cover.

Exhaust:

Removal of the muffler and/or resonator. Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.

Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine) If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement. It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick has a yellow handle and is located near the center of the engine compartment. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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Checking Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

I NOTICE:

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

The engine oil filler cap is located between the coolant recovery tank and the air cleaner.

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Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT SAE VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

THE LOWEST

HOT

WEATHER

LOOK FOR THIS SYMBOL

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

COLD

WEATHER

00 NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

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As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0” F (- 18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

1 NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29”C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

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If none of them is true, use the long triphighway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don't let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your slun and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don't ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner (Gasoline Engines)

To remove the air cleaner filter: 1. Loosen the screw bolt to air induct hose. 2. Remove the three bolts holding the air cleaner

housing in place.

3. Remove the full air housing. 4. Unsnap the three clips.

Then tilt the top cover up and back to expose the filter element.

5 . Install a new filter element with the folds in the

down position.

Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to replace the air cleaner. See “Normal Replacement Parts” for the proper filter to use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter and crankcase ventilation filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Automatic Transmission Fluid” in the Diesel Supplement. When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle’s GVWR is over 8,600 or if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: 0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.

0 In hilly or mountainous terrain. 0 When doing frequent trailer towing.

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while.

In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93 O C). See “Checking Transmission Fluid Hot” in the Index.

Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), drive the vehicle in in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If your vehicle’s GVWR is not over 8,600 and you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

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Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (IOOC), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine

running.

0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

0 Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The transmission dipstick has a red handle and is

located near the center of the engine compartment. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

I NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warrantv.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lu’_ -~I

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling s stem in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL engine coolant. This coolant is designea to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km) whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL6 extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and DEX-COOL@ coolant will: 0 Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C).

Give boiling protection up to 265 “F (129” C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion. 0 Help keep the proper engine temperature. 0 Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

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NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or engine coolant will require change sooner -- at radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

I A CAC LILA:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

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NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher.

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1

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

I.

lbrning me radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Radiator Pressure Cap The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with the arrows on the cap lined up with the ovefflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine cooling system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. To prevent contamination of brake fluid, never check or fill the power steering reservoir with the brake master cylinder cover off.

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Adding Washer Fluid

What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

in the There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake

I hydraulic system.

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.

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After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark or the top of the window on the side of the reservoir.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

(GM Part

b CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

NOTICE:

0 Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

0 If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If’ you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Every new vehicle has an ACDelco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. If you have a diesel engine, you have two batteries. The primary battery is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment. The second battery is located on the driver’s side framerail. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

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I A CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting’’ in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the index for the proper types of bulbs to use. Halogen Bulbs

I A CAUTION:

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index.

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

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Headlamps You have either a sealed beam headlamp system or a composite system.

Sealed Beam Headlamps

1. Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.

Pull the retainer out and set it aside.

2. Unplug the lamp assembly from the connector. 3. Install a new headlamp. 4. Reverse the previous steps to reinstall the headlamp.

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Composite Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Locate the rear side of each of the headlamps.

5. Install a new bulb. Do not handle the glass part

of the bulb.

6. Reverse the previous steps to reinstall the headlamp.

3. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself, remove the bulb assembly from the back of the headlamp on the driver’s side by turning the bulb to the left one quarter of a turn.

4. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb to the right

one quarter of a turn. Also, to remove the bulb on the passenger’s side, you will need to move the battery.

Front Parking/”urn Signal Lamps To replace the front parkinghurn signal lamps:

2. Remove the lamp from the grille.

1. Remove the outer screws from the parkinghrn

signal lamp lens assembly. (There are either two or four screws, depending on your vehicle’s trim level.)

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Sidemarker Lamps

1. Remove the screw from the top of the lens.

3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb assembly

while turning it to the left. Remove the bulb assembly from the back of the lens and replace the bulb. Reverse Steps 2 and 3 to replace the bulb. Turn the socket to the right to replace it in the lens assembly. Replace the screws on the parkingkurn signal lamp assembly.

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Taillamps 1. Open the rear door.

2. Unclip the bottom of the lamp from the grille. 3. Remove the bulb by twisting it out of the socket. Turn the bulb to remove it. Install the new bulb.

4. Reverse these steps to reinstall the lamp.

2. Push the socket protector until you can see

the fasteners.

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3. Remove the nuts with a deep socket wrench.

4. Remove the hidden upper nuts.

5. Lift the lamp as you

rotate it toward the rear of the vehicle.

6. Squeeze the tab on the side of the sockets while

turning them to the left to remove.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement

7. Turn the bulb to the left to remove it. Install the

new bulb.

8. Reverse the above steps to reinstall the lamp.

See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. To remove the type with a release clip: 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. To install the new wiper insert, slide the notched end last, into the end with two blade claws. Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slot. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly into the windshield.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index. Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certificationflire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t hav.2 enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:

Unusual wear Bad handling Rough ride Needless damage from road hazards.

Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

0 Bad wear

Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

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How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. If your vehicle has dual rear wheels, also see “Dual Tire Operation” later in this section.

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

If your vehicle has single rear wheels, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.

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’ A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

your vehicle has dual rear wheels, always use one of me correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires. When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatioflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

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When It’s Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire. You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

0 The tire has a bump, bulge or split. 0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Dual Tire Operation When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and I O 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically. If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high-crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding 5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires. Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

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If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

’ A CAUTION:

If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat. An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured. Be sure all tires (including the spare) are properly inflated.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationmire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).

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A CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.

While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

Traction -- A, B, C

The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straight ahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction. Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet

under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.

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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

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Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

I 3 Wheels

A CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Tire Chains

NOTICE:

Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle:

Gasoline 0 Benzene Naphtha

0 Carbon Tetrachloride 0 Acetone 0 Paint Thinner

Turpentine

0 Lacquer Thinner 0 Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:

Alcohol

0 Laundry Soap

Bleach Reducing Agents

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Here are some cleaning tips:

Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. Carefully scrape off any excess stain. Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on

the container label to form thick suds.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior

cleaner instructions described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a waterhaking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for

Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.

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Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet that has been treated with Scotchgard" Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6167). Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth.

Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once.

0 Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain

if you don't get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinylAeather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. 0 For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

0 Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

0 Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

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Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

- - -

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner (GM Part No. 1050427) or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. 6-54

A m i @

Powder (non-scratching glass

Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon cleaning powder), GM Part No. 10500 1 1. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)

Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Use liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soaps. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior LampsLenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a liquid hand, dish or car washing (mild detergent) soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle may have a “basecoatklearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoatklearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoatklearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

6-55

1

:els

Cleaning Aluminum (If Equipped) Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.

Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.

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Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

I C E :

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.

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Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first. This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.

6-58

DESCRIPTION

SIZE

Appearance Care Materials Chart PART NUMBER

994954 1050172 1050 173 1050174 16 10502 I4 I050427 1052870

10529 18”“

1052925

23 in. x 25 in. 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)

Polishing Cloth - Wax Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass

Removes tar, road oil and asphalt

Exterior polishing cloth

oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner

32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)

I 8 oz. (0.237 L) 1 16 oz. (0.473 L) I

Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner

Wash Wax Concentrate

I Armor All Protectant

Multi-Purpose Interior

Cleaner

Capture Dry Spot Remover

2.5 sq. ft.

Wheel Cleaner

16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)

1052929 1052930 12345002 1234572 1 12345725 12377964 12377966 12377984 See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index.

12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 02. (0.473 L) I 16 oz. (0.473 L) I I 16 oz. (0.473 L) I

Armor All TM Cleaner Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine Finish Enhancer

Cleaner Wax Surface Cleaner

Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops

Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints

Cleans and lightly waxes

Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas l‘, plastic,

rubber and vinyl

Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels

and floor mats

Spray on and rinse with water

Attracts, absorbs and removes soils

Cleans and shines a variety of surface types

Shines vehicle without scratching

Spray on tire shine

Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants I Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish I Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks **Not recommended for use on instrument panel vinyl.

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Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the front passenger door frame. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:

your VIN,

0 the model designation, 0 paint information and 0 a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

111 1111 111 111111 II 1111 II 1111 SAMPLE4UXWM072675

E N G l N E A 9 8 f CODE

MODEL YEAR

ASSEMBLY PLANT

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if-you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.

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Electrical System Add-on Electrical Equipment

I NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Headlamp Wiring The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away. Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the the windshield before using the windshield wipers. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.

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Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The fuse block access door is on the driver's side of the instrument panel above the hood release lever. You can remove the cover by turning the fastener to the left.

Be sure to use the correct fuse. If you ever have a problem on the road and don't have a spare fuse, you can borrow one of the correct value. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is of the value you need. Replace it as soon as you can.

FUSE BLOCK INFORMATION

You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse extractor is mounted to the fuse block access door. To remove fuses if you don't have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.

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POSITION NAME STOP HTD MIR CTSY GAUGES

1. 2. 3. 4.

5 . 6. 7. 8. 9.

10. 11. 12. 13. 14.

HAZARD CRUISE PWR AUX CRANK PARK LPS

AIR BAGS WIPER HTR-A/C CIG LTR ILLUM

CIRCUITS PROTECTED StopKHMSL, Stoplamps Electric Heated Mirrors Courtesy Lamps, Dome/RDG Lamps, Vanity Mirrors, Power Mirrors IP Cluster, DRL Relay, DRL Module, HDLP Switch, Keyless Entry Illumination, Low Coolant Module, CHIME Module, DRAB Module Hazard LampdCHIME Module Cruise Control Auxiliary Power Outlet, DLC

License Plate Lamp, Parking Lamps, Taillamps, Front Sidemarkers, Glove Box Ashtray Air Bags Wiper Motor, Washer Pump A/C, A/C Blower, High Blower Relay, HTD Mirror Cigarette Lighter IP Cluster, HVAC Controls, RR HVAC Controls, IP Switches, Radio Illumination, Door Switch Illumination

6-63

POSITION

15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. A.

B.

NAME DRL TURN B/U RADIO- 1 BRAKE RADIO-B TRANS SECURITY/STRG RR DEFOG Not Used RR HVAC PWR ACCY

PWR WDO

CIRCUITS PROTECTED DRL Relay Front Turn, RR Turn, Back-up Lamps, BTSI Solenoid Radio (Ign, Accy), Upfitter Provision Relay 4WAL PCM, ABS, Cruise Control Radio (Battery), Power Antenna PRNDL, Automatic Transmission EVO Steering, Passlock Rear Window Defog -- RR HVAC Controls, HIGH, MED, LOW Relays Power Door Lock, Six-Way Power Seat, Keyless Entry Illumination Module Power Windows

Fuse amperage levels are imprinted on the fuse panel under the dash.

' 6-64

Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Center The fuse block is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment at the rear.

NAME BLOWER ABS

CIRCUITS PROTECTED Front Blower Motor Electronic Brake Control Module

NAME IGN-B IGN-A BATT LIGHTING

CIRCUITS PROTECTED Ignition Switch Starter Relay, Ignition Switch Instrument Panel Fuse Block Instrument Panel Fuse Block, Headlamp Switch

RR BLOWER Rear Auxiliary Blower Motor Relays Heated 0 2 Sensors, Mass Air Flow ENG-I Sensor, EGR Valve Solenoid, Evap Canister Purge Valve, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Secondary Air Injection Relay (Diesel), Water in Fuel Sensor (Diesel), Fuel Heater (Diesel), Glowplug Relay (Diesel), Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel) Air Conditioning Clutch Relay Spare Fuses Upfitter Provisions Upfitter Provisions Right-hand Headlamp (Export only)

AIC SPARE AUX A AUX B RH-HDLP