2009 GMC Envoy Owners Manual

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Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). 4-50 If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs: Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certiﬁcation/Tire Label located on the B-pillar below the door latch or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-31 for more information. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. 4-51 Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches (A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If a step-bumper hitch is used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. 4-52 If pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. Ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Since the vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, the trailer brakes cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. Driving with a Trailer { CAUTION: When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer: (cid:129) Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip. (cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window open. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-37. Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. 4-53 Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also ﬂash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. 4-54 Parking on Hills { CAUTION: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a ﬂat surface. If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park). 5. Release the brake pedal. { CAUTION: It can be dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake ﬁrmly set. The vehicle can roll. If the engine has been left running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in P (Park) with the parking brake ﬁrmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in N (Neutral), the vehicle will be free to roll, even if the shift lever is in P (Park). Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in N (Neutral). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28. 4-55 Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you: Trailer Wiring Harness start the engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. 4-56 The vehicle may have a seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness may have a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped with the trailering package) that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform or included with the four-pin trailer towing harness. If the vehicle is not equipped with the heavy-duty trailer connector, one may be purchased from your dealer/retailer. (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Running Lamps (cid:129) White: Ground Light Green: Back-up Lamps (cid:129) Red: Battery Feed (cid:129) Dark Blue: Electric Brakes If towing a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is available from your dealer/retailer. If charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery, turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle system voltage and properly charge the battery. The vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an electric trailer brake controller. These wires are located inside the vehicle on the driver side under the instrument panel. These wires should be connected to an electric trailer brake controller by your dealer/retailer or a qualiﬁed service center. 4-57 (cid:129) ✍ NOTES 4-58 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle ......................................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-15 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-21 Cooling System ............................................5-24 Engine Coolant .............................................5-25 Engine Overheating .......................................5-30 Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-32 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-33 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34 Brakes ........................................................5-35 Battery ........................................................5-38 Jump Starting ...............................................5-39 Rear Axle .......................................................5-43 Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-44 Front Axle ......................................................5-44 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-45 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46 Headlamps ..................................................5-46 Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps ..........................................5-47 Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps ............5-47 Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-48 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-49 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-49 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-50 Tires ..............................................................5-53 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-54 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-57 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-60 High-Speed Operation ...................................5-62 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-63 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-64 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-68 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69 Buying New Tires .........................................5-70 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-72 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-74 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-74 Tire Chains ..................................................5-76 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-76 Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ....................5-77 Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Storage .........5-87 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-88 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-89 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ................................................5-92 Secondary Latch System ...............................5-97 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...........5-100 Spare Tire .................................................5-102 Appearance Care ..........................................5-103 Interior Cleaning .........................................5-103 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-104 Leather ......................................................5-105 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .................................................5-106 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-106 Weatherstrips .............................................5-106 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-107 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-107 Finish Care ................................................5-108 Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-108 Aluminum Wheels .......................................5-109 Tires .........................................................5-109 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-109 Finish Damage ...........................................5-110 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-110 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-110 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-111 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-111 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-111 Electrical System ..........................................5-112 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-112 Headlamps .................................................5-112 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-112 Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-112 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-113 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-113 Rear Underseat Fuse Block ..........................5-116 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-120 5-2 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-69. 5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work { CAUTION: You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-68. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16. Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If the vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. 5-7 Filling the Tank { CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-8 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. { CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-107. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. There may also be a light that comes on in the instrument panel to let you know if the gas cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-47 for more information. { CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-38. 5-9 Checking Things Under the Hood { CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. Filling a Portable Fuel Container { CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood: 1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel on the driver side. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. 3. Lift the hood, release the prop rod from its retainer, and put the prop rod into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the prop rod. Remove the prop rod from its slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 4.2L L6 engine, here is what you will see: 5-12 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-24. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-24. H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35. K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-38. L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-113. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 5-24. B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-24. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-33. J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-113. L. Battery. See Battery on page 5-38. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-15 Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area (F) that shows the proper operating range for the L6 engine or above the cross-hatched area for the V8 engine, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. When to Add Engine Oil L6 Engine V8 Engine If the oil is below the L mark for the L6 engine or the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V8 engine, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-120. 5-16 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required speciﬁcation, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. 5-17 Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system ﬂushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light comes on, and, if the vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes on. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-43 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-18 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life System: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. The change engine oil light will ﬂash while the system is resetting. 3. When the light stops ﬂashing, turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the light/message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. 5-19 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter by removing it the from the vehicle and lightly shaking the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter: 1. Remove the screws on the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and lift off the cover. 2. Remove the air cleaner/ﬁlter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. 5-20 { CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-21 How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in 3 (Third) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare the vehicle as follows: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in P (Park). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. 5-22 (cid:129) Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Flip the handle up and then remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. If the dipstick does not go down the tube easily, turn the blade and try again until it is fully inserted in the tube. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 5-23 Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer/retailer. How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:129) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid” earlier in this section. (cid:129) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 5-24 Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature. 5.3L V8 Engine shown, 4.2L L6 Engine similar A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL®. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. 5-25 What to Use { CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature. (cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C), engine temperature. If an improper coolant mixture is used, (cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. 5-26 Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. The coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there may be a leak in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank { CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start the vehicle. 5-27 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-28 If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap. Remove the pressure cap. 3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-25 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL COLD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 5-29 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on the vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-37 for more information. If the vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the display will show an Engine Coolant Hot/Engine Overheated message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-51 for more information. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 5-30 You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If the engine catches ﬁre because of being If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment { CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. 5-31 If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary. 3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle. If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Engine Fan Noise The vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when the engine is started. The sound will go away as the fan clutch disengages. 5-32 (cid:129) (cid:129) Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check the power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. For vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. For vehicles with the 5.3L V8 engine, the level should be at the FULL mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-33 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When the vehicle needs windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If the vehicle will be operating in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-34 (cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down: The brake ﬂuid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the ﬂuid level goes back up. (cid:129) A ﬂuid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also cause a low ﬂuid level. Have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well. Do not top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid does not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. { CAUTION: If too much brake ﬂuid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 5-35 (cid:129) Checking Brake Fluid Check brake ﬂuid by looking at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12. { CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If brake ﬂuid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-107. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN, but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake ﬂuid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. 5-36 (cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal ﬁrmly. { CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-120. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear. 5-37 Vehicle Storage { CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed. Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-38 Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. { CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Your vehicle cannot be started by pushing or pulling it, and can be damage by trying it. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in Neutral. 5-39 { CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. If you leave the radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use this remote terminal instead of the terminal on the battery. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket on vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine or the engine accessory drive bracket for vehicles with the 5.3L V8 engine, and is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-40 { CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, for this purpose. 5-41 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. 4.2L L6 Engine 5.3L V8 Engine The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L V8 engine. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-42 Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal Disconnect the jumper cables in reverse order that they were installed. Do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 0.40 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 5-43 Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 5-44 How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0.50 inch (12 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service. 5-45 Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-49. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs { CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. Hood Release on page 5-11. 2. Lift the two headlamp retaining clips. 5-46 3. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the vehicle to access the electrical connectors. 4. Remove the cover from the headlamp bulb. 5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it. 6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the old bulb. 7. Plug the electrical connector into the new bulb using care not to touch the glass with your ﬁngers. 8. Turn the socket clockwise to reinstall it. 9. Reinstall the headlamp cover. 10. Push the headlamp assembly toward the vehicle. 11. Press down on the headlamp retaining clips to secure the headlamp assembly. Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Follow Steps 1 through 3 under Headlamps on page 5-46 to access the front turn signal, sidemarker or parking lamp. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp assembly. 3. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it from the socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure. 6. Reinstall the headlamp assembly by lining up the headlamp assembly with the slots in the headlamp retaining clips. 7. Press down on the headlamp retaining clips to secure the headlamp assembly. Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps To replace a stoplamp/taillamp or turn signal bulb: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on page 2-12. 2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly. 3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle. 5-47 Back-Up Lamps The back-up lamps are located in the rear bumper. To replace a bulb: 4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the three socket retaining screws (B). 5. Remove the socket plate. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to straight out release it from the socket. 7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket plate and three screws. 9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by lining up the locator pins with the retainers in the body of the vehicle. 11. Reinstall the two screws. 5-48 1. Reach behind the rear bumper and locate the bulb socket. 2. Turn it counterclockwise to remove from the lamp assembly. 3. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it from the socket. 4. Push in a new bulb into the bulb socket until it clicks. 5. Reinstall the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure. License Plate Lamp 1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate lamp lens. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamps/Rear Turn Signal Lamp, Stoplamp, and Taillamp Front Sidemarker Lamps Front Turn Signal Lamps License Plate Lamp High-Beam Headlamps Low-Beam Headlamps 3157 194 3457 W5W 9005 HB3 9006 HB4 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. 2. Pull the lens away from the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Replace the lamp assembly lens and tighten the screws. 5-49 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position. A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook 2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook. 3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. 5-50 4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted. 5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots. A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation 6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. 7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. 5-51 Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the park rest position. 2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. 3. Rotate the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm. 5-52 4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest position. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer. { CAUTION: (cid:129) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-31. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See High-Speed Operation on page 5-62 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. 5-53 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall. Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire If your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. The vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. If the vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Passenger (P-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. 5-54 (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60 and Loading the Vehicle on page 4-31.

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2009 GMC Envoy Owners Manual