1999 GMC Envoy Owners Manual

conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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D In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. D While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C). D At high speed for quite a while.

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Checking the Fluid Level D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the

engine running.

D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever

in PARK (P).

D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).

D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

1. The transmission

dipstick is located at the rear of the engine compartment.

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Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as

described under “How to Check.”

D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

How to Check Lubricant

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten plug.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

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If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE:

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOLR extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant will: D Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C). D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C). D Protect against rust and corrosion. D Help keep the proper engine temperature. D Let the warning lights and gages work as

they should.

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NOTICE:

CAUTION:

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Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR coolant.

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner -- at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

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The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

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Power Steering Fluid

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CAUTION:

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

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How to Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.

Adding Washer Fluid

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Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

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Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

NOTICE:

D When using concentrated washer fluid,

follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

D Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

D Fill your washer fluid tank only

three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Checking Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.

Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.

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NOTICE:

D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage

brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.

D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

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Battery Your new vehicle comes with an ACDelco FreedomR battery. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend an ACDelco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index. Bulb Replacement Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GMC dealer’s service department.

CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

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Headlamps Composite High-Beam Headlamp System 1. Open the hood.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

CAUTION:

The low beam High Intensity Discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

Halogen Bulbs

CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up. 3. Pull the headlamp assembly out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector.

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Front Turn Signal Lamp Assembly 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under

“Composite High-Beam Headlamp System” earlier in this section.

5. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to

remove it.

6. Put the new bulb assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.

7. Plug in the electrical connector. 8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install the two retaining clips.

2. Twist the bulb socket to remove it from the

headlamp assembly.

3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from

the socket.

4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps

into place.

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5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and twist

it clockwise until it is tight.

6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.

Install the two retaining clips.

Taillamps 1. Open the liftgate.

2. Remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.

3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle. 4. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it. Push

the tab in while you turn the socket counterclockwise.

5. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight

out of the socket.

6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until

it clicks.

7. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket

clockwise until it locks in place.

8. Install the lamp assembly. Install and tighten

the screws.

9. Close the liftgate.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” in Section 7 of this manual under Part B “Owner Checks and Services” for more information. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.

NOTICE:

Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.

1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm

until it locks into a vertical position.

A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook

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2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab.

Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.

5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.

3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The

insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.

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4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.

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A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation

6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.

Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.

7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly

onto the windshield.

Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement See “Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement” in this section for instructions on how to change the backglass wiper blade. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GMC Warranty booklet for details.

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CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. D Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as

overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

D Overinflated tires are more likely to be

cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact -- such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your

tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following: D Too much flexing D Too much heat D Tire overloading D Bad wear D Bad handling D Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: D Unusual wear D Bad handling D Rough ride D Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles (10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

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When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

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CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

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When It’s Time for New Tires

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One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: D You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

D You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber.

D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep

enough to show cord or fabric.

D The tire has a bump, bulge or split. D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

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CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.

CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction -- AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature -- A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

NOTICE:

Don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

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Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: D Gasoline D Benzene D Naphtha D Carbon Tetrachloride D Acetone D Paint Thinner D Turpentine D Lacquer Thinner D Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous -- some more than others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.

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D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean

area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.

D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the

entire area immediately or it will set.

Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask

surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.

3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on

the container label to form thick suds.

4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge. Don’t

saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.

5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge

to remove the suds.

6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth. 7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.

Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: D Alcohol D Laundry Soap D Bleach D Reducing Agents Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Here are some cleaning tips: D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. D Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set. D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.

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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the

soiled area with cool water.

2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior

cleaner instructions described earlier.

3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat

the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.

4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to

dry completely.

3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for

Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.

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Fabric Protection Your vehicle has upholstery and carpet fabric that has been treated with Scotchgardt Fabric Protector, a 3M product. It protects fabrics by repelling oil and water, which are the carriers of most stains. Even with this protection, you still need to clean your upholstery and carpet often to keep it looking new. Further information on cleaning is available by calling 1-800-433-3296 (in Minnesota, 1-800-642-6167). Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You

may have to do it more than once.

D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if

you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.

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Cleaning Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth. Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your

dealer for this product.

D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.

D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned

immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.

Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.

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Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid. Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.

Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn. Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)

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Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.) Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.

NOTICE:

Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.

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Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible. Cleaning Aluminum Wheels Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on any wheels other than chrome-plated wheels.

Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels. Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.

NOTICE:

When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle. Petroleum-based products may damage the paint finish and tires.

Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.

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Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GMC will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.

Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop. Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.

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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials

PART NUMBER

SIZE

DESCRIPTION

USAGE

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994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427

Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated

23 in. x 25 in. Tar and Road Oil Remover 16 oz. (0.473 L) Chrome Cleaner and Polish 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner 32 oz. (0.946 L) 23 oz. (0.680 L)

Vinyl Cleaner Glass Cleaner

1052918**

8 oz. (0.237 L)

Armor Allt Protectant

Exterior polishing cloth

Removes tar, road oil and asphalt

Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass

Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops

Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints

Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglast, plastic,

rubber and vinyl

1052925

16 oz. (0.473 L)

Multi-Purpose Interior

Cleaner

Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels

and floor mats

Capture Dry Spot Remover

2.5 sq. ft.

Wheel Cleaner

16 oz. (0.473 L) 8 oz. (0.237 L)

1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964* 12377966* 12377984* See your General Motors Parts Department for these products. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

12 oz. (0.354 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L) 16 oz. (0.473 L)

Synthetic Chamois Silicone Tire Shine

Finish Enhancer

Surface Cleaner

Cleaner Wax

Spray on and rinse with water

Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric

Shines vehicle without scratching

Spray on tire shine

Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish

Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks

* For exterior use only. **Not recommended for use on instrument panels.

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Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts. Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is: D your VIN, 6-54

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D the model designation, D paint information and D a list of all production options and

special equipment.

Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle. Electrical System Add-On Electrical Equipment

NOTICE:

Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.

Windshield Wipers The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wipers will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed. Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away. Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating.

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If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can. Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The instrument panel fuse block is at the driver’s end of the instrument panel.

Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. Extra fuses and the fuse extractor are provided in the cover. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.

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Fuse/Circuit Breaker

10
11
12
13

Usage

Cruise Control Module and Switch, Body Control Module, Heated Seats Gages, Body Control Module, Instrument Panel Cluster Parking Lamps, Power Window Switch, Body Control Module, Ashtray Lamp Steering Wheel Audio Control Illumination Headlamp Switch, Body Control Module, Headlamp Relay Courtesy Lamps, Battery Run-Down Protection Not Used Turn Signal Cluster, Engine Control Module Interior Lights Auxiliary Power

Usage

Not Used Not Used Not Used Cigarette Lighter, Data Link Connector

Fuse/Circuit Breaker

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Fuse/Circuit Breaker 14
15

16
17
18
19
20
21

22
23
24

Usage

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

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Power Locks Motor 4WD Switch, Engine Controls (VCM, PCM, Transmission) Air Bag Front Wiper Steering Wheel Audio Controls Radio, Battery Amplifier HVAC I (Automatic), HVAC Sensors (Automatic) Anti-Lock Brakes Rear Wiper Radio, Ignition

The fuse block is under the hood at the driver’s side of the engine compartment. Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.

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Name LT TURN LT TRN RT TRN RR PRK TRL PRK LT LOW RT LOW FRPRK INT BAT ENG I

ECM B

ABS ECM I A/C LT HI RT HI

Usage Left Turn Signal Front Left Turn Signal Rear Right Turn Signal Rear Right Rear Parking Lamps Trailer Park Lamps Low-Beam Headlamp, Left Low-Beam Headlamp, Right Front Parking Lamps I/P Fuse Block Feed Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF, CAM, PURGE, VENT Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Module, Oil Pressure Anti-Lock Brake System Engine Control Module Injectors Air Conditioning High-Beam Headlamp, Left High-Beam Headlamp, Right

Usage Trailer Left Turn Trailer Right Turn Trailer Back-Up Lamps Vehicle Back-Up Lamps Right Turn Signal Front

Name TRL TRN TRR TRN TRL B/U VEH B/U RT TURN

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Name HORN BTSI

B/U LP DRL

IGN B RAP LD LEV OXYSEN MIR/LKS FOG LP IGN E IGN A STUD #2
PARKLP LR PRK

Usage Horn Brake-Transmission Shift Interlock Back-Up Lamps Daytime Running Lamps (If Equipped) Column Feed, IGN 2, 3, 4
Retained Accessory Power Electronic Load Leveling Oxygen Sensor Mirrors, Door Locks Fog Lamps Engine Starting and Charging, IGN 1
Accessory Feeds, Electric Brake Parking Lamps Left Rear Parking Lamps

Name IGN C

HTDSEAT HVAC TRCHMSL

HIBEAM RRDFOG TBC CRANK HAZLP VECHMSL

HTDMIR ATC STOPLP RR W/W

Usage Starter Solenoid, Fuel Pump, PRNDL Heated Seats HVAC System Trailer Center High-Mounted Stop Light High-Beam Headlamps Rear Defogger Truck Body Computer Clutch Switch, NSBU Switch Hazard Lamps Vehicle Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp Heated Mirror Automatic Transfer Case Stoplamps Rear Window Wiper

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Replacement Bulbs Lamps Halogen Headlamps, Composite High Beam Tail and Stoplamps Front Sidemarker Lamps Front Turn Signal Lamps Turn Signal Lamps Capacities and Specifications Engine Description Type VIN Code Firing Order Horsepower Thermostat Specification Spark Plug Gap

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . .

“VORTEC” 4300
V6
1-6-5-4-3-2
190 at 4,400 rpm 195_F (91_C) 0.060 inches (1.52 mm)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wheels and Tires Wheel Nut Torque Tire Pressure

. . . . . . . . . . .

100 lb-ft (140 N·m) See the Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

. . . . . .

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Quantity Number 9005 HB3
3057
194 NA 3157
3157 NA Capacities (Approximate) Cooling System* Crankcase* Automatic Transmission

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11.7 quarts (11.1 L) 4.5 quarts (4.3 L)

(Drain and Refill)*

. . . . . . . . . . .

5.0 quarts (4.7 L)

Differential Fluid

Front Rear

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Fuel Tank A/C Refrigerant

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.6 pints (1.2 L) 4.0 pints (1.9 L) 18.0 gallons (68.0 L) 1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) of R-134a

*After refill, the level must be checked.

Air Conditioning Refrigerants Not all air conditioning refrigerants are the same. If the air conditioning system in your vehicle needs refrigerant, be sure the proper refrigerant is used. If you’re not sure, ask your dealer. Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GMC dealer. Thermostat Oil Filter Air Cleaner Filter PCV Valve Automatic Transmission Filter Kit Spark Plugs Fuel Filter Front Windshield

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12559051
PF52
A1163C CV769C 24200796
41-932
GF481

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wiper Blade

Backglass Wiper Blade

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Trico (20 inches/50.8 cm) Trico (14 inches/35.6 cm)

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Vehicle Dimensions Wheelbase Length Height Width Front Tread Rear Tread

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

107.0 inches (271.8 cm) 181.5 inches (460.0 cm) 67.0 inches (170.2 cm) 67.8 inches (172.2 cm) 57.3 inches (145.4 cm) 55.1 inches (139.9 cm)

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- NOTES

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Section 7 Maintenance Schedule

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This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.

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7-4
7-7
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Introduction Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance

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Part B: Owner Checks and Services Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Part E: Maintenance Record

7-

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Introduction Your Vehicle and the Environment Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.

Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet, or your dealer for details.

7-2

How This Section is Organized This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts: “Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” shows what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.

CAUTION:

Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know-how and the proper tools and equipment for the job. If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.

If you are skilled enough to do some work on your vehicle, you will probably want to get the service information. See “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

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“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition. “Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform. “Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done. “Part E: Maintenance Record” provides a place for you to record the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Whenever any maintenance is performed, be sure to write it down in this part. This will help you determine when your next maintenance should be done. In addition, it is a good idea to keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.

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Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services Using Your Maintenance Schedule We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways. Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer. This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM-trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.

The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle. These schedules are for vehicles that: D carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal

driving limits.

D are driven off-road in the recommended manner. See

“Off-Road Driving With Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle” in the Index.

D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index. Selecting the Right Schedule First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which schedule to follow:

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Scheduled Maintenance

Short Trip/City Definition

Short Trip/City Intervals

Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle: D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).

This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic).

D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or

off-road frequently.

D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of

your vehicle.

D If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi

or other commercial application.

One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that these conditions cause engine oil to break down sooner.

Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter

Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Drive Axle Service (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).

Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Tire Rotation. Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Air Cleaner Filter

Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions. Automatic Transmission Service (severe conditions only).

Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Air Cleaner Filter

Replacement. Fuel Filter Replacement.

Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic Transmission Service (normal conditions).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory

Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection.

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Scheduled Maintenance

Short Trip/City Intervals

Long Trip/Highway Intervals

Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire

Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.

Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System

Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.

Long Trip/Highway Definition

Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance is true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for these conditions. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.

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Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.

Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Automatic

Transmission Service (severe conditions only).

Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter

Replacement. Air Cleaner Filter Replacement.

Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic Transmission Service (normal conditions).

Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory

Drive Belt Inspection. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection.

Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire

Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.

Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System

Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).

These intervals only summarize maintenance services. Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.

Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

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The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles (166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles (166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km). See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” following. Footnotes [ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.

# Lubricate the front suspension, ball joints, steering linkage, parking brake cable guides, propshaft splines, universal joints and brake pedal springs. + A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule. ** Drive axle service (see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for proper lubricant to use): D Locking Differential -- Drain fluid and refill at first engine oil change. At subsequent oil changes, check fluid level and add fluid as needed. If driving in dusty areas or towing a trailer, drain fluid and refill every 15,000 miles (25 000 km).

D More frequent lubrication may be required for

heavy-duty or off-road use.

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Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance

3,000 Miles (5 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

(See footnote #.)

j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking. (See footnote **.)

6,000 Miles (10 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

(See footnote #.)

j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant

velocity joints and axle seals for leaking. (See footnote **.)

j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper

rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)

9,000 Miles (15 000 km) j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

An Emission Control Service.

j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).

(See footnote #.)

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DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY:

DATE

ACTUAL MILEAGE

SERVICED BY: