2009 GMC Canyon Owners Manual

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trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 500 lbs (226 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. 4-51 Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be: If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs: Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). 4-52 Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certiﬁcation/Tire label located at the bottom of the center pillar on the driver’s side of the vehicle, or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches A step bumper hitch can be used for trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) total weight, and 200 lbs (90 kg) tongue weight. Notice: If a step-bumper hitch is used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) safety chains may be attached to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Since the vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, the trailer cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. 4-53 Driving with a Trailer { CAUTION: When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer: (cid:129) Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip. (cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window open. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index. For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-35. 4-54 Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the ﬂoor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also ﬂash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If the vehicle has a manual transmission it is better not to use the highest gear. 4-55 When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) with the parking brake applied, for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. Parking on Hills { CAUTION: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a ﬂat surface. If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet for vehicles with an automatic transmission, or into gear for vehicles with a manual transmission. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park) for vehicles with an automatic transmission or into gear for vehicles with a manual transmission. 5. If the vehicle has four-wheel-drive, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in N (Neutral). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26 for more information. 6. Release the brake pedal. 4-56 Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you: (cid:129) Start the engine (cid:129) Shift into a gear (cid:129) Release the parking brake 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 or the Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Trailer Wiring Harness The vehicle may be equipped with a four-pin trailer towing harness. This harness has a four-pin trailer connector that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. The four-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps/Park lamps (cid:129) White: Ground Trailer Recommendations Subtract the hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load the vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside, but you can ﬁgure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each passenger. The total cargo load must not be more than the vehicles CWR. Weigh the vehicle with the trailer attached, so the GVWR or GAWR are not exceeded. If using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. The best performance is obtained by correctly spreading out the weight of the load and choosing the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information see Towing a Trailer on page 4-47. 4-57 ✍ NOTES 4-58 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .............................................5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle .................................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10 Hood Release ..............................................5-11 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12 Engine Oil ...................................................5-15 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-21 Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-24 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-25 Cooling System ............................................5-26 Engine Coolant .............................................5-28 Engine Overheating .......................................5-32 Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-33 Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35 Brakes ........................................................5-36 Battery ........................................................5-39 Jump Starting ...............................................5-40 Rear Axle .......................................................5-43 Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-44 Front Axle ......................................................5-45 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-47 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47 Headlamps ..................................................5-48 Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) ................................5-49 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-50 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-51 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Tires ..............................................................5-54 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-55 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-58 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-61 High-Speed Operation ...................................5-62 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-63 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-65 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-68 When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69 Buying New Tires .........................................5-70 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-72 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-74 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-74 Tire Chains ..................................................5-76 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-77 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-78 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-79 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ..........................................5-83 Secondary Latch System ...............................5-90 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94 Spare Tire ...................................................5-98 Appearance Care ..........................................5-100 Interior Cleaning .........................................5-100 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-101 Leather ......................................................5-102 5-2 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-102 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-102 Weatherstrips .............................................5-103 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-103 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-103 Finish Care ................................................5-104 Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-104 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ................................................5-105 Tires .........................................................5-106 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-106 Finish Damage ...........................................5-106 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-107 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-107 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-107 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-108 Electrical System ..........................................5-108 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-109 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-109 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-109 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-115 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-115 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certiﬁed parts, including control module modiﬁcations, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-76. 5-3 Doing Your Own Service Work { CAUTION: You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-75. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16. Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If the vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits form fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 5-6 Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-7 Filling the Tank { CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. 5-8 The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. { CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. If the fuel cap is not properly installed, the FUEL CAP message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the check engine light will be lit on the instrument panel cluster. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38 and Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30 for more information. { CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30. 5-9 Checking Things Under the Hood { CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. Filling a Portable Fuel Container { CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. 5-10 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel. 2. Release the secondary latch on the hood. It is located below the front center of the hood. 3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the procedure if necessary. 5-11 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.7L engine (2.9L engine similar), you will see the following: 5-12 A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35. B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28. C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine compartment). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-34. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-26. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump Starting on page 5-40. I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-40. K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-36. L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-109. M. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39. N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped). See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25. 5-13 When you open the hood on the 5.3L engine, you will see the following: 5-14 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35. D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21. F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-15. H. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-36. I. Battery. See Battery on page 5-39. J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-34. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-109. L. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on page 5-26. 5-15 When to Add Engine Oil L4 and L6 Engines Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. V8 Engine If the oil is below the cross-hatched area (L), add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-115. 5-16 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. 5-17 Cold Temperature Operation If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required speciﬁcation, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you need for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system ﬂushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL message will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. 5-18 If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change the oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change the oil prior to a CHANGE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life system: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON/RUN. 2. Press and release the stem in the lower center of the instrument cluster until the OIL LIFE message is displayed. 3. Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appear, press and hold the stem until several beeps sound. This conﬁrms that the oil life system has been reset. 4. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-20 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Unfasten the clips that hold the cover on and remove the cover. 2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 3. Inspect or replace the air ﬁlter. See Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 to determine which ﬁlter to use. 4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter cover. Fasten the clips to hold the cover in place. { CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If adding it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or there could be a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). 5-21 (cid:129) Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in 3 (Third) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), the engine might have to idle longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot gives a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. Checking the Fluid Level To prepare the vehicle: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in P (Park). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine: 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and pull it back out again. 5-22 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. (cid:129) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section. (cid:129) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 5-23 Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to check the manual transmission ﬂuid is when the engine oil is changed. However, the ﬂuid in the manual transmission does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer/retailer service department. If doing it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or there could be a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. Check the ﬂuid level only when the engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough to touch the transmission case. 5-24 After this is done: 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. If the ﬂuid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the ﬂuid level is low, add more ﬂuid as described in the next steps. How to Add Fluid Here is how to add ﬂuid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. 1. Remove the ﬁller plug. 2. Add ﬂuid at the ﬁller plug hole. Add only enough ﬂuid to bring the ﬂuid level up to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. 3. Install the ﬁller plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in the vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with hydraulic clutch ﬂuid. The hydraulic clutch ﬂuid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. It is not necessary to regularly check clutch ﬂuid unless a leak in the system is suspected. Adding ﬂuid will not correct a leak. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 5-25 When to Check and What to Use Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the ﬂuid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper ﬂuid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. 2.9L Engine shown (3.7L Engine similar) A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan C. Radiator Pressure Cap 5-26 { CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. 5-27 5.3L Engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. What to Use { CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 5-28 Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature. (cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C), engine temperature. If an improper coolant mixture is used, (cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 for more information. If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it. It is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there could be a leak in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank { CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start the vehicle. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank. 5-29 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-30 If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. 1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Keep turning the cap to remove it. 3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL COLD mark. 5. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck might be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, 5-31 If Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment { CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. Engine Overheating The vehicle has a coolant temperature gage displayed on the instrument panel to warn if the engine is overheating. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-29. If the engine is too hot, the air conditioning might stop working. This is normal and helps cool the engine. You may decide not to lift the hood when the warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, the vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If the engine catches ﬁre because of being 5-32 If No Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-47. If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary. 3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle. If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages. 5-33 (cid:129) (cid:129) Power Steering Fluid The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment, behind the radiator. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Notice: Use of the incorrect ﬂuid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. 5-34 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer ﬂuid is needed, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-35 (cid:129) Do not top off the brake ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid does not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. { CAUTION: If too much brake ﬂuid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down: The brake ﬂuid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the ﬂuid level goes back up. (cid:129) A ﬂuid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also cause a low ﬂuid level. Have the brake hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well. 5-36 (cid:129) Checking Brake Fluid Check brake ﬂuid by looking at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12. { CAUTION: The ﬂuid level should be above the PP mark. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the PP mark but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT-3 brake ﬂuid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If brake ﬂuid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. 5-37 (cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal ﬁrmly. { CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-115. Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the brakes adjust for wear. 5-38 Vehicle Storage { CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed. Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. 5-39 Jump Starting If the vehicle battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. { CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in Neutral. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. 5-40 If you leave the radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the terminal locations. { CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. { CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 5-41 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-42 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 5-43 How to Check Lubricant What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 to determine which kind of lubricant to use. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section apply to this vehicle. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Additional Required Services on page 6-6. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 mm to 10 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. 5-44 How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11. Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check your front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. A. Drain Plug B. Filler Plug If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Remove the plug and add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. 5-45 How to Check Lubricant If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11 to determine what kind of lubricant to use. To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. 5-46 Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs { CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-47 Headlamps A. Low-Beam Headlamp/Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) B. High-Beam Headlamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11. 2. Reach in and access the bulb sockets from inside the engine compartment. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the headlamp assembly and pull it straight out. 4. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb by releasing the clips on the bulb socket. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out. 6. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks to secure it. 7. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb socket. 8. Push the bulb socket straight in and turn it clockwise to secure it in the headlamp assembly. 5-48 Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11. 5. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the CHMSL bulb: 1. Remove the two screws and lift off the lamp assembly from the vehicle. 2. Reach in to access either one of the bulb sockets in the engine compartment. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp assembly. 4. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb to release it from the bulb socket. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the lamp assembly. 3. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from the socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 5. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure. 6. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the tailgate. See Tailgate on page 2-9. A. Stoplamp/Taillamp B. Turn Signal/Taillamp C. Back-up Lamp 2. Remove the two rear lamp assembly screws near the tailgate latch. 3. Pull the lamp assembly away from the vehicle. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly. 5. Holding the socket, pull the old bulb straight out to release it from the socket. 6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it clicks. 7. Insert the bulb socket into the taillamp assembly and turn it clockwise to secure. 8. Reinstall the taillamp assembly and tighten the screws. 5-50 License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number 1. Reach under the rear bumper for the bulb socket. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb socket out of the connector. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 4. Push the new bulb straight in until it clicks to secure it. 5. Reach under the rear bumper to reinstall the bulb socket into the connector. 6. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to secure it to the connector. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) License Plate Bulb Headlamps High-beam Low-beam/Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Parking/Front Turn Signal Parking Lamp (Inboard) Stoplamp, Rear Turn Signal, Taillamp, and Back-up Lamp 912 W5W 9005 9006 3757KA 3157A 3057 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. 5-51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position. 5-52 A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook 2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook. 3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. 4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted. 5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots. A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation 6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. 7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. 5-53 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61.

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2009 GMC Canyon Owners Manual