If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-104.
5-41
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-121. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, the disc brakes adjust for wear.
Brake Wear Your vehicle has disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.
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Vehicle Storage
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas
that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you
are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-44
for tips on working around a battery without
getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When you replace parts of the braking system — for example, when the brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
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If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. And it could save the radio!
4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the
positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each
battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump
starting terminal. You should always use this remote
terminal instead of the terminal on the battery. The
remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front
engine lift bracket on vehicles with the 4.2L L6
engine or the engine accessory drive bracket for
vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines, and is
marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment
Overview on page 5-12 for more information on
location.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
5-45
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, for this purpose.
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4.2L L6 Engine
5.3L V8 Engine shown,
6.0L V8 Engine
similar
The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
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If the jumper cables are connected or
Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
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All-Wheel Drive When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.
5-49
What to Use
To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
For vehicles equipped with the SS package, to add
lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90
Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 12378261, in
Canada 10953455) meeting GM Specification 9986115.
To completely refill after draining, add 5.5 ounces
(163 ml) of Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive
(GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694).
Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the
Synthetic Gear Lubricant.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
It is not necessary to regularly check fluid unless you
suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise.
A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected
and repaired.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. For all vehicles, excluding vehicles equipped with the 6.0L V8 Engine, the proper level is from 0 to 0.40 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. For vehicles equipped with the 6.0L V8 Engine, the proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle differential cover. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.
5-50
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you will need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-54. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 0.50 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If the headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommended that you take the vehicle to your dealer/retailer for service.
5-52
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on
page 2-11 for more information.
2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly.
3. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the vehicle.
4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the three
retaining screws (B) from the socket plate.
5. Remove the socket plate. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from
the socket.
7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket and tighten the three screws. 9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by lining up the
locator pins with the retainers in the vehicle’s body.
11. Reinstall the two screws and tighten. 12. Close the liftgate.
5-53
License Plate Lamp 1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate
lamp lens.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp
Bulb Number
License Plate Lamp Taillamps
W5W
3157
For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer.
2. Pull the lens away from the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Replace the lamp assembly lens and tighten the
screws.
5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm
until it locks into a vertical position.
A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab
D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook
2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking
tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.
3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The
insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.
5-55
4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),
notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.
5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.
5-56
A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation
6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.
Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.
7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly
onto the windshield.
Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement
4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest
position.
1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the
park rest position.
2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.
3. Rotate the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details.
{CAUTION:
(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used
tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much flexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
5-58
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same
danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If
your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
See High-Speed Operation on page 5-66
for inflation pressure adjustment for high
speed driving.
If the vehicle has low-profile tires, they
Low-Profile Performance Tire If your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires, they are classified as low-profile performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-profile performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. The vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.
Winter Tires For cold weather driving conditions you may prefer to get tires designed for snow or ice, if your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-75. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all
four wheel positions.
(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range,
and speed rating as your original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.
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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.
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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-78.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the passenger (P-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
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Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. Curb Weight: The weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
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GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire can be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
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Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply
cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90
degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which
the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread
and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to
a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a
tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the
road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into
contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes
called wear bars, that show across the tread of a
tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains.
See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-74.
UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-78. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
5-64
Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to your vehicle. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the Tire and Loading Information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort. Never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the pressure of the spare tire. See Spare Tire on page 5-100 for additional information.
5-65
How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
High-Speed Operation
{CAUTION:
Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.
5-66
If your vehicle has P255/50R20 104V size tires installed
on the rear axle, they will require inflation pressure
adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds above 99
mph (160 km/h). Set the cold inflation pressure, for the
rear tires only, to the maximum inflation pressure shown
on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (262 kPa), whichever is
lower. See the example following. When you end this
high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold tire inflation
pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information
label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35.
Example:
You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure
molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near
the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum
load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press.
For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for
high-speed driving at 38 psi (262 kPa).
The inflation pressure for the front tires should be set to
the cold tire inflation pressure shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label.
Racing or other competitive driving may affect the
warranty coverage of your vehicle. See your warranty
booklet for more information.
Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.) As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated. Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.
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Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS malfunction indicator to indicate when the system is not operating properly. The TPMS malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire pressure telltale. When the system detects a malfunction, the telltale will flash for approximately one minute and then remain continuously illuminated. This sequence will continue upon subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the malfunction exists. When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the system may not be able to detect or signal low tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may occur for a variety of reasons, including the installation of replacement or alternate tires or wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. Always check the TPMS malfunction telltale after replacing one or more tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow the TPMS to continue to function properly. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-69 for additional information.
Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired operation.
The TPMS operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
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Tire Pressure Monitor Operation The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) is designed to warn the driver when a low tire pressure condition exists. TPMS sensors are mounted onto each tire and wheel assembly, excluding the spare tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmit the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPMS is designed to alert the driver if a low tire pressure condition exists. If your vehicle has the Driver Information Center (DIC) steering wheel control buttons, tire pressure levels may also be checked through the DIC. See “Tire Pressures” under DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-50.
When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS illuminates the low tire pressure warning light located on the instrument panel cluster.
At the same time a message to check the pressure in a specific tire appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display. The low tire pressure warning light and the DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure. Using the DIC, tire pressure levels can be viewed by the driver. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-50 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53. The low tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the air pressure in the tire(s) is low and needs to be inflated to the proper pressure. A Tire and Loading Information label, attached to your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, for an example of the Tire and Loading Information label and its location on your vehicle. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65.
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Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-72 and Tires on page 5-58. Notice: Liquid tire sealants could damage the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors. Sensor damage caused by using a tire sealant is not covered by your warranty. Do not use liquid tire sealants. TPMS Malfunction Light and Message The TPMS will not function properly if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. When the system detects a malfunction, the low tire warning light flashes for about one minute and then stays on for the remainder of the ignition cycle. A DIC warning message is also displayed. The low tire warning light and DIC warning message come on at each ignition cycle until the problem is corrected. Some of the conditions that can cause the malfunction light and DIC message to come on are: (cid:127) One of the road tires has been replaced with the spare tire. The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. The TPMS malfunction light and DIC message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor.
(cid:127) The TPMS sensor matching process was started but
not completed or not completed successfully after rotating the vehicle’s tires. The DIC message and TPMS malfunction light should go off once the TPMS sensor matching process is performed successfully. See “TPMS Sensor Matching Process” later in this section.
(cid:127) One or more TPMS sensors are missing or damaged. The DIC message and the TPMS malfunction light should go off when the TPMS sensors are installed and the sensor matching process is performed successfully. See your dealer/ retailer for service.
(cid:127) Replacement tires or wheels do not match your
vehicle’s original equipment tires or wheels. Tires and wheels other than those recommended for your vehicle could prevent the TPMS from functioning properly. See Buying New Tires on page 5-75.
(cid:127) Operating electronic devices or being near facilities using radio wave frequencies similar to the TPMS could cause the TPMS sensors to malfunction.
If the TPMS is not functioning it cannot detect or signal a low tire condition. See your dealer/retailer for service if the TPMS malfunction light and DIC message come on and stay on.
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TPMS Sensor Matching Process Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you need to start over.
The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the
engine off.
3. Turn the headlamp control from off to parking lamps four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light will begin to flash. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicate that the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing throughout the matching procedure.
4. Start with the driver side front tire. 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.
Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, you will need to start over with step number one.
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6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat
the procedure in Step 5.
8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the
procedure in Step 5.
9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver’s side rear tire, check to see if the TPMS warning light is still flashing. If yes, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF to exit the sensor matching process. If the TPMS warning light is not flashing, the five minute time limit has passed and you will need to start the process over beginning with Step 1.
10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure
level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
Tire Inspection and Rotation We recommend that you regularly inspect your vehicle’s tires, including the spare tire, for signs of wear or damage. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-74 for more information. Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-74 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-80.
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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. See Tire Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-69. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-121.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-85.
Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, tighten the cable. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-97.
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When It Is Time for New Tires Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures, driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions, influence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.
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You need new tires if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
(cid:127) The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric. (cid:127) The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. (cid:127) The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
The rubber in tires degrades over time, even if they are not being used. This is also true for the spare tire, if your vehicle has one. Multiple conditions affect how fast this aging takes place, including temperatures, loading conditions, and inflation pressure maintenance. With proper care and maintenance tires will typically wear out before they degrade due to age. If you are unsure about the need to replace your tires as they get older, consult the tire manufacturer for more information.
Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall near the tire size. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by a MS, for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-60 for additional information.
GM recommends replacing tires in sets of four. This is because uniform tread depth on all tires will help keep your vehicle performing most like it did when the tires were new. Replacing less than a full set of tires can affect the braking and handling performance of your vehicle. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-72 for information on proper tire rotation.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of tires on your vehicle’s wheels.
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{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires.
Vehicles equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-67. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.
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Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this could affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability, and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as anti-lock brakes, rollover airbags, traction control, and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.
{CAUTION:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.
See Buying New Tires on page 5-75 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and differences in road characteristics and climate.
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Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment might need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, the tires and wheels might need to be rebalanced. See your dealer/retailer for proper diagnosis.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer/retailer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer/retailer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset, and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) sensors, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts, wheel nuts, and TPMS sensors for your vehicle.
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Used Replacement Wheels
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on the vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-85 for more information.
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Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.
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Accessory Inflator Your vehicle may have an accessory inflator system. You can inflate things like basketballs and bicycle tires. You can also use it to bring your tire pressure up to the proper pressure. It is not designed to inflate large objects which will require more than five minutes to inflate, such as an air mattress.
The accessory inflator is located in the rear compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle behind an access cover, near the liftgate opening.
To remove the cover, push in on the tab to access the inflator. You may have an air inflator kit that is located in the glove compartment. It includes a 22 ft (6.7 m) hose with three nozzle adapters.
To use the accessory inflator:
1. Attach the appropriate nozzle adapter to the end of
the hose, if required.
{CAUTION:
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate any object only to its recommended pressure.
2. Attach that end of the hose to the object you wish
to inflate.
3. Attach the other end of the hose to the outlet.
4. Press and release the switch to turn the air inflator
on. The indicator light will remain on when the inflator is running. The system has an internal clock to prevent the system from overheating. The system will allow about five minutes of running time, then the compressor will stop. The indicator light will then begin to flash. When the indicator is off, the inflator can be started again by pressing the switch. If the compressor is still hot, it may only run for a short time before shutting off again.
5. Press and release the switch to turn the inflator off. Place the inflator kit tools in the pouch and store it in its proper location. Remove the inflator hose from the outlet during loading and unloading. Load leveling will not function with the inflator hose attached to the inflator outlet. See Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System on page 4-47 for more information. To reinstall the cover, line up the tabs at the back of the cover, put it in place and latch the tabs. A continuous flashing indicator light may also indicate a malfunction in the air suspension system. See Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System on page 4-47 for more information.
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If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire creates a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the
vehicle.
6. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of
the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
When your vehicle has a flat tire, use this as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.
Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6 for more information.
{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart while
the vehicle is raised.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment needed to remove the spare tire is stored under the rear seat. To release the jack from its holder, turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to lower the jack head. See Rear Seat Operation on page 1-10 for more information.
The tools you will be using include the wheel wrench (A), wheel blocks (B), extension(s) (socket end) (C), handle (jack end) (D), and jack (E). To remove the underbody-mounted spare from your vehicle: Notice: storage position under the vehicle while it is supported by a jack, you could damage the tire and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a tire when the vehicle is on the ground.
If you remove or restow a tire from/to the
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A. Wheel Wrench B. Hoist Shaft C. Extension D. Retainer E. Spare or Flat
Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Up)
3. Insert the socket end
of the extension (C) on a 45 degree angle downward into the hoist drive shaft hole.
1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on
page 2-11 for more information.
2. Attach the wheel wrench (A) to the extension (C).
It is exposed when the rear gate is open and is just above the rear bumper. Be sure the socket end of the extension (C) connects to the hoist shaft.
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4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-94 for more information.
5. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable when the
tire has been completely lowered, and pull it through the wheel opening.
If you drive away before the spare tire or
6. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle. Notice: secondary latch system cable has been reinstalled, you could damage your vehicle. Always reinstall this cable before driving your vehicle. 7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire 1. Do a safety check before proceeding. See Changing
a Flat Tire on page 5-85 for more information.
2. Use the flat end of the wheel wrench to carefully
pry off the center cap.
3. Using the wheel
wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts by turning the nuts one turn counterclockwise. Do not remove them yet.
Front Position
Rear Position
A. Front Frame/
Rear Axle
B. Jack
C. Handle D. Extension(s) E. Wheel Wrench
4. Turn the jack adjusting knob clockwise by hand to
raise the jack lift head.
5. Place the handle, extension, and wheel wrench
onto the jack.
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6. Place the jack in the appropriate position nearest
the flat tire.
{CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
{CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
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7. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.
8. Remove all the wheel nuts and the flat tire.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-85.
9. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.
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10. Place the spare tire on the wheel-mounting surface.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle’s wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
11. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone
shaped end is toward the wheel.
12. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut cannot be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.
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13. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-121 for wheel nut torque specification.
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to
Notice: brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-121 for the wheel nut torque specification.
14. Use the wrench to
tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.
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Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire is damaged. For the secondary latch to work, the tire must be stored with the valve stem pointing up. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-97 for instructions on storing the spare or flat tire correctly.
{CAUTION:
Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed next.
{CAUTION:
Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the under spare.
To release the spare tire from the secondary latch:
1. Check under the
vehicle to see if the cable is visible. If it is not visible, proceed to Step 6.
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2. If visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.
3. Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise three or four turns.
4. Repeat this procedure at least two times.
If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 2 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-86.
5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Attach the jack handle, extension(s) and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper. Position the center lift point of the jack under the center of the spare tire.
7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end fitting.
8. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.
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9. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.
10. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and
carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand.
11. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the socket end of the extension into the hoist shaft hole on a 45 degree angle downward.
12. Be sure that the socket end of the extension
connects to the hoist shaft.
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Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.
13. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.
If you drive away before the spare tire or
Notice: secondary latch system cable has been reinstalled, you could damage your vehicle. Always reinstall this cable before driving your vehicle. 14. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the cable
back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle. Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare tire using the hoist assembly until it has been repaired or replaced.
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
{CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
{CAUTION:
The underbody-mounted spare tire needs to be stored with the valve stem pointing up. If the spare tire is stored with the valve stem pointing downward, its secondary latch will not work properly and the spare tire could loosen and suddenly fall from your vehicle.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
CAUTION:
(Continued)
If this happened when your vehicle was being driven, the tire might contact a person or another vehicle, causing injury and, of course, damage to itself as well. Be sure the underbody-mounted spare tire is stored with its valve stem pointing up.
Notice: An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist. However, storing it that way for an extended period could damage the wheel. To avoid this, always stow the wheel properly with the valve stem pointing up and have the wheel repaired as soon as possible. Follow this diagram to store the underbody-mounted flat or spare tire.
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A. Wheel Wrench B. Hoist Shaft C. Extension D. Retainer E. Spare or Flat
Tire (Valve Stem Pointed Up)
3. Make sure the valve stem is pointed up and to
the rear.
4. Pull the retainer (D) through the wheel. 5. Put the socket end of the extension (C) through the
hole just above the rear bumper at a 45 degree angle downward. Connect the socket end of the extension to the hoist shaft (B).
6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench (A) clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. This indicates that the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.
1. Put the tire (E) on the ground at the rear of the
vehicle.
2. Remove the hubcap, if the vehicle has one, from the flat tire by tapping the backside of the hubcap with the wheel wrench (A). Store in a safe location until the flat tire is repaired. Once the tire is repaired, replace the hubcap.
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7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A),
and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench and socket end of the extension to tighten the cable.
8. Return the equipment to the proper location in the
vehicle as shown next.
A. Handle B. Wheel Wrench C. Instruction Label D. Extension(s)
E. Knob F. Wheel Blocks
and Jack
1. Attach the handle (A), wheel wrench (B), and
extension (D) in the slots provided.
2. Roll up the instruction label (C) and return to the
slot in the tool kit.
3. Assemble the wheel blocks (F) to the jack. 4. Turn the knob (E) on the jack clockwise to raise the
jack head.
5. Return the rear seat to its proper position.
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Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35 for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-89 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-97. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. The spare tire is made to perform well at speeds up to 70 mph (112 km/h) at the recommended inflation pressure, so you can finish your trip. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Do not mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they will not fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.
Appearance Care
Interior Cleaning Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth.
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If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning
Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your dealer/retailer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your dealer/retailer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery. Do not clean your vehicle using: (cid:127) A knife or any other sharp object to remove a soil
from any interior surface.
(cid:127) A stiff brush. It can cause damage to your vehicle’s
interior surfaces.
(cid:127) Heavy pressure or aggressive rubbing with a
cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.
(cid:127) Laundry detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers can leave residue that streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide. Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps.
(cid:127) Too much cleaner that saturates the upholstery. (cid:127) Organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc. that
can damage your vehicle’s interior.
Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For any soil, always try to remove it first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques: (cid:127) For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper
towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed.
(cid:127) For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and
then vacuum.
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Leather A soft cloth dampened with water can be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on leather.
To clean: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or
club soda.
2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the
cleaning cloth remains clean.
5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild
soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.
If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.
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Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.
{CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.