2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer Owners Manual

motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with about 250,000 people injured.

For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological, and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord, or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

Control of a Vehicle The following three systems help to control your vehicle while driving — brakes, steering, and accelerator. At times, as when driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. Meaning, you can lose control of your vehicle. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.

Braking See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38. Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied.

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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.

Antilock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid. When you start the engine and begin to drive away, ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.

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If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light will stay on. See Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-39.

Along with ABS, your vehicle has a Dynamic Rear Proportioning (DRP) system. If there is a DRP problem, both the brake and ABS warning lights come on accompanied by a 10-second chime. The lights and chime will come on each time the ignition is turned on until the problem is repaired. See your dealer/retailer for service. Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels. ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly. Remember: ABS does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have ABS. Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might feel the brakes vibrate or notice some noise, but this is normal.

Braking in Emergencies With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

Locking Rear Axle If your vehicle has this feature, your locking rear axle can give you additional traction on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a standard axle most of the time, but when one of the rear wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle.

StabiliTrak® System Your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, Electronic Stability Control (ESC) which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. Traction control activates when the controller senses wheel spin. StabiliTrak® will selectively apply the brakes and reduce engine torque to help regain traction. Stability control activates when the controller senses a discrepancy between your intended path and the direction the vehicle is travelling. StabiliTrak® selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to help guide the vehicle in the direction which you are steering. When you first start your vehicle and begin to drive away, the system performs several diagnostic checks to insure there are no problems. You may hear or feel the system working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with your vehicle. If driving conditions delay system initialization, the STABILITRAK NOT READY message may be displayed. If this is the case, your vehicle does not need servicing. For more information on the stability messages, see DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53.

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When the StabiliTrak® system is both on and actively controlling the stability of the vehicle, the StabiliTrak® light will blink for the duration of the event.

You may also feel or hear the system working. This is normal.

The StabiliTrak® disable button is located on the transmission shift handle.

For vehicles with four-wheel drive, the StabiliTrak® system is automatically disabled in 4LO mode and cannot be turned on until the vehicle is switched to 2HI, 4HI, or 4AWD.

The StabiliTrak® system has three modes of operation: STABILITRAK ON, TRACTION CONTROL OFF, and STABILITRAK OFF. STABILITRAK ON -The vehicle will default to STABILITRAK ON every time the driver starts the vehicle. The StabiliTrak® light will be off and no DIC messages will be displayed. TRACTION CONTROL OFF - The driver can modify the engine speed management system by momentarily pressing the StabiliTrak® button on the transmission shift handle. The StabiliTrak® light will come on and TRACTION CONTROL OFF will be displayed. For vehicles without a DIC, the StabiliTrak® indicator light will come on. Momentarily pressing the StabiliTrak® button again will return the system to the STABILITRAK ON mode. STABILITRAK OFF - The driver can turn off StabiliTrak® by pressing the StabiliTrak® button for more than five seconds. The StabiliTrak® light will come on and STABILITRAK OFF will be displayed. For vehicles without a DIC, the StabiliTrak® indicator light will come on. Momentarily pressing the StabiliTrak® button again will return the system to the STABILITRAK ON mode. See StabiliTrak® Off below for more information.

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Traction Control Off In this mode, stability control and brake-traction control are functional. Engine speed management will be modified and the driven wheels can spin more freely. This can cause the brake-traction control to activate more frequently. If the controller detects excessive wheel spin in this mode, the StabiliTrak® indicator light may blink and the STABILITRAK ACTIVE message may be displayed to warn the driver that damage may occur to the transfer case. StabiliTrak® Off In this mode, both stability control and part of the traction control system are disabled. Your vehicle will still have brake-traction control, but will not be able to use the engine speed management system. You may still hear system noises as a result of the brake-traction control coming on. If the controller detects excessive wheel spin in this mode, the StabiliTrak® indicator light may blink and the STABILITRAK ACTIVE message may be displayed to warn the driver that damage may occur to the transfer case.

It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if your vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you may want to “rock” your vehicle in an attempt to free it. It may also be necessary to turn off the system when driving in extreme off-road conditions where high wheel spin is required. See If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-33 for more information. For vehicles with four-wheel drive, when the transfer case is in 4LO, the stability system is automatically disabled. The StabiliTrak® light will come on and the STABILITRAK OFF message will appear on the DIC. The StabiliTrak® system cannot be turned on until the vehicle is switched to 2HI, 4HI, or 4AWD. The following chart describes the StabiliTrak® system events and the corresponding messages and lights that will be displayed on the instrument panel cluster.

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Vehicles with a DIC

StabiliTrak®

Indicator Light

DIC Message

Vehicles without a DIC

StabiliTrak®

Indicator Light

StabiliTrak® Service

Light

Event

—

Off

None

Off

Solid

Traction Control Off

Solid

Solid

StabiliTrak Off

Solid

Blinking

StabiliTrak Active

Blinking

Solid

Solid

Service StabiliTrak

StabiliTrak Not Ready

Solid

Solid

Off

Off

Off

Off

Solid

Off

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StabiliTrak® On

mode (System is fully

enabled, but is not actively controlling vehicle stability).

Traction Control Off

Mode

StabiliTrak® Off

Mode (StabiliTrak® indicator light will flash when system

first enters this

mode).

StabiliTrak® system

activates using engine speed

management, brake

traction control, and/or stability

control.

StabiliTrak® system is disabled due to a

system fault.

StabiliTrak® system is disabled due to a failure to initialize.

If you allow the wheel(s) of one axle to spin

If the StabiliTrak® light comes on due to Notice: heavy braking and/or because the traction control system has been continuously active, do not allow the wheel(s) of one axle to spin excessively. If you do, you may be causing damage to the transfer case. This could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. Notice: excessively while the StabiliTrak®, ABS and brake warning lights and the SERVICE STABILITRAK message are displayed, you could damage the transfer case. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Reduce engine power and do not spin the wheel(s) excessively while these lights and this message are displayed. StabiliTrak® may activate on dry or rough roads or under conditions such as heavy acceleration while turning or abrupt upshifts/downshifts of the transmission. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration, or may hear a noise or vibration. This is normal.

If your vehicle is in cruise control when the system activates, the StabiliTrak® light will blink, and the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control on page 3-10. StabiliTrak® will turn off automatically if a problem is detected in the system. The StabiliTrak® light will come on and SERVICE STABILITRAK will be displayed on the DIC. For vehicles without a DIC, the StabiliTrak® light and the StabiliTrak® service light will both come on. If the SERVICE STABILITRAK message (or StabiliTrak® service light) does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, you should see your dealer for service. Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.

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All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System (TrailBlazer SS) If your vehicle has this feature, engine power is sent to all four wheels all the time. This is like four-wheel drive, but there is no separate lever or switch to engage or disengage the front axle. It is fully automatic, and adjusts itself as needed for road conditions. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this.

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Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems — steering and acceleration — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce speed when approaching a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while the front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect your vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3.

Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-3. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

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Off-Road Recovery Your right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing: (cid:127) Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.

(cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.

(cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to

pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.

(cid:127) Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle. (cid:127) When you are being passed, ease to the right.

Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance is longer and vehicle control more limited.

While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You might not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

Competitive Driving See your warranty book before using your vehicle for competitive driving. After reviewing your warranty book, please see the GM Performance Parts website or catalog for parts and equipment required for competitive driving. Notice: driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine. Be sure to check the oil level often during competitive driving and keep the level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on page 5-17.

If you use your vehicle for competitive

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Before You Go Off-Roading There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields, if the vehicle has them, are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be driving? If you do not know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

Off-Road Driving (Except SS) This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive. Also, see Braking on page 4-3. If your vehicle does not have four-wheel drive, you should not drive off-road unless you are on a level, solid surface. The airbag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage. Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain. As always, wear your safety belt. Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself. “Off-roading” means you have left the great North American road system behind. Traffic lanes are not marked. Curves are not banked. There are no road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill, or downhill. In short, you have gone right back to nature. Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that is why it is very important that you read this guide. You will find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.

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Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Cargo on the load floor piled higher than

the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

(cid:127) Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be

tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

(cid:127) Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s

center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle. (cid:127) The heaviest things should be on the load floor and

forward of the rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

(cid:127) Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on

the off-road terrain does not toss things around.

You will find other important information in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35, Luggage Carrier on page 2-56, and Tires on page 5-58. Environmental Concerns Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment: (cid:127) Always use established trails, roads, and areas that

have been specially set aside for public off-road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.

(cid:127) Avoid any driving practice that could damage

the environment — shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses — or disturb wildlife. This includes wheel-spinning, breaking down trees, or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground.

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(cid:127) Always carry a litter bag — make sure all refuse is

removed from any campsite before leaving.

(cid:127) Take extreme care with open fires where permitted,

camp stoves, and lanterns.

(cid:127) Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other

combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

Traveling to Remote Areas It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads. It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly. Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you will want to know how to use it properly.

Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness. Off-road driving does require some new and different skills. Here is what we mean. Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet, and body, you will need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce. Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds: (cid:127) You approach things faster and you have less time

to scan the terrain for obstacles.

(cid:127) You have less time to react. (cid:127) You have more vehicle bounce when you drive over

obstacles.

(cid:127) You will need more distance for braking, especially

since you are on an unpaved surface.

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{CAUTION:

When you are driving off-road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you are driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

Scanning the Terrain Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider. Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow, or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration, and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction, and longer braking distances. Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut, or bump can startle you if you are not prepared for them. Often these obstacles

are hidden by grass, bushes, snow, or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider: (cid:127) Is the path ahead clear? (cid:127) Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead? (cid:127) Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? There is

more discussion of these subjects later.

(cid:127) Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction

quickly?

When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs, or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you are not prepared. When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, the wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you cannot control the vehicle as well or at all. Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns, or sudden braking. In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways. There are no road signs, posted speed limits, or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what is not.

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Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. See Drunk Driving on page 4-2. Driving on Off-Road Hills Off-road driving often takes you up, down, or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and cannot do. There are some hills that simply cannot be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle. If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you cannot control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, do not drive the hill.

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Approaching a Hill When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend, or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs. Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill. (cid:127) Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply

steeper in places?

(cid:127) Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the

surface cause tire slipping?

(cid:127) Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you will

not have to make turning maneuvers?

(cid:127) Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your

path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?

(cid:127) What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an

embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to find out.

(cid:127) Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps. (cid:127) Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering

wheel.

(cid:127) Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain

your speed. Do not use more power than you need, because you do not want the wheels to start spinning or sliding.

{CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

(cid:127) Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

(cid:127) Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of

the hill.

(cid:127) Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

(cid:127) Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill

to let opposing traffic know you are there.

(cid:127) Use your headlamps even during the day. They

make your vehicle more visible to oncoming traffic.

{CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

There are some things you should do if the vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and you cannot make it up the hill: (cid:127) Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it

from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

(cid:127) If the engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

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(cid:127) If the engine has stopped running, you will need to

restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

(cid:127) As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you will be able to tell if the wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best that you back down the hill with the wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

There are also some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill: (cid:127) Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into NEUTRAL (N) to rev-up the engine and regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control. Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

(cid:127) Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

If, after stalling, you try to back down the hill and decide you just cannot do it, set the parking brake, put the transmission in PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.

{CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). This is because the NEUTRAL position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P). But do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer case in the Two-Wheel High, Four-Wheel High or Four-Wheel Low position.

4-20

Driving Downhill When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to consider a number of things: (cid:127) How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain

vehicle control?

(cid:127) What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?

Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?

(cid:127) Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs?

Boulders?

(cid:127) What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden

creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help the brakes and they will not have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

{CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

There some things not to do when driving down a hill. These are important because, if you ignore them, you could lose control and have a serious accident: (cid:127) When driving downhill, avoid turns that take

you across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you do not drive straight down.

(cid:127) Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.” The brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

4-21

Your vehicle is much more likely to stall when going uphill. But if it happens when going downhill: 1. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

2. Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart the

engine.

3. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,

and drive straight down.

4. If the engine will not start, get out and get help. Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

{CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that is too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, do not drive across it. Find another route instead.

(cid:127) A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base — the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels — reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width — the distance between the left and right wheels — may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

(cid:127) Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause the tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it — a rock, a rut, etc. — and roll over.

(cid:127) Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the

incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline does not mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

4-22

When driving across an incline that is not too steep, the vehicle can hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it. Stalling on an Incline

{CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed. Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline, be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you will be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

4-23

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking distances. It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not get stuck. When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.

Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

{CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

4-24

Driving in Water

{CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing water.

Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.

If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will never be able to start the engine. When you go through water, remember that when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop. See Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-26
for more information on driving through water. After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

4-25

Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside

rearview mirror.

(cid:127) Slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.

(cid:127) Watch for animals. (cid:127) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:127) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:127) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps. (cid:127) Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle

clean — inside and out.

(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or

curves.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.

4-26

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.

{CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet. Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:127) Allow extra following distance. (cid:127) Pass with caution. (cid:127) Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape. (cid:127) Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled. (cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires

on page 5-58.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows

clean — inside and outside?

(cid:127) Wiper Blades: In good shape? (cid:127) Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? (cid:127) Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? (cid:127) Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to

recommended pressure?

(cid:127) Weather and Maps: Safe to travel? Have

up-to-date maps?

4-27

Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:127) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:127) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:127) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead

and to the sides.

(cid:127) Check the rearview mirror and vehicle instruments

often.

Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:127) Keep your vehicle serviced and in good shape. (cid:127) Check all fluid levels and brakes, tires, cooling

system, and transmission.

(cid:127) Going down steep or long hills, shift to a lower gear.

{CAUTION:

If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.

4-28

Winter Driving Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You might want to put winter emergency supplies in

your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Also see Tires on page 5-58.

{CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

(cid:127) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut

across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

(cid:127) Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your

lane (stalled car, accident).

(cid:127) Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks

area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action. See Off-Road Driving (Except SS) on page 4-14 for information about driving off-road.

4-29

Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be very careful.

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it can offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

4-30

The Antilock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-4. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. (cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until

you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches can appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: (cid:127) Turn on the hazard warning flashers. (cid:127) Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that

you have been stopped by the snow.

(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

4-31

{CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

4-32

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34. If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method.

{CAUTION:

If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-82.

4-33

Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles with StabiliTrak®, turn the traction control part of the system off. See StabiliTrak® System on page 4-5. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-41.

Recovery Hooks

{CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

4-34

Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty. For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the vehicle, you can use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

4-35

Tire and Loading Information Label

Label Example

A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The Tire and Loading Information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D).

4-36

For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-58 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of

occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard. 2. Determine the combined weight of the driver

and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.

3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.

4. The resulting figure equals the available

amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1,400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1,400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).

5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.

6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load

from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. See Towing a Trailer on page 4-48 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.

Example 1

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

300 lbs (136 kg)

700 lbs (317 kg)

4-37

Example 2

Example 3

Item

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

Item

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

750 lbs (136 kg)

250 lbs (113 kg)

Description Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =

Total

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

1,000 lbs (453 kg)

0 lbs (0 kg)

4-38

Certification/Tire Label

Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Your vehicle may have an electronically controlled air suspension system that automatically keeps your vehicle level as you load and unload your vehicle. See Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System on page 4-47 for additional information.

A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a trailer.

4-39

The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Similar appearing vehicles may have different GVWRs and capacity weights. Please note your vehicle’s Certification/Tire label or consult your dealer for additional details.

4-40

{CAUTION:

Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your vehicle’s weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way. Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle. If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.

{CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

(cid:127) Put things in the cargo area of your

vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.

(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like

suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child

restraint in your vehicle.

(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down

unless you need to.

There is also important loading information for off-road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving” under Off-Road Driving (Except SS) on page 4-14.

Adding a Snow Plow or Similar Equipment Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended for a snow plow. Notice: Adding a snow plow or similar equipment to your vehicle can damage it, and the repairs would not be covered by warranty. Do not install a snow plow or similar equipment on your vehicle. Towing

Towing Your Vehicle To avoid vehicle damage, a platform or flatbed trailer should be used to transport this vehicle. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.

4-41

Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. You may also need brakes for the vehicle being towed. See your dealer for additional trailering information. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the trailering capacity of the towing vehicle?

Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have

restrictions on how far and how long they can be towed.

(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations.

(cid:127) Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-27.

All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles (TrailBlazer SS) Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground. Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see “Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.

4-42

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels

Dinghy Towing Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer.

Four-wheel-drive vehicles can be dinghy towed if you follow the proper procedures. The transmission has no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed, so it is important that you follow all the steps listed in this manual to dinghy tow your four-wheel-drive vehicle.

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Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P). 2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 3. Firmly set the parking brake. 4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow

vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position for your vehicle.

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

7. Turn the ignition off. After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.

4-44

If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with

Dolly Towing Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground) Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Notice: the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle with the rear wheels on the ground. Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles Four-wheel-drive vehicles can be dolly towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the tow dolly. 2. Shift the automatic transmission to PARK (P). 3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on. 4. Firmly set the parking brake. 5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the dolly.

{CAUTION:

Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P). You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28 for the proper procedure to select the NEUTRAL (N) position for your vehicle.

7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

8. Turn the ignition off. After towing, see “Shifting Out of Neutral” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.

4-45

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground) (Two-Wheel or Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)

4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle. Use an adequate clamping device to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle

being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to LOCK.

If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery.

Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from the rear: 1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly. 2. Firmly set the parking brake. See Parking Brake on

page 2-32 for more information.

3. Shift the transmission in PARK (P).

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Electronically Controlled Air Suspension System Your vehicle may be equipped with an electronically controlled air suspension system that automatically keeps your vehicle level as you load and unload. The system includes a compressor, two height sensors and two air springs supporting the rear axle. The system also has an internal clock to prevent overheating if the inflator is used for prolonged periods. If the system overheats, all leveling function stops until the system cools down. During this time, the indicator light on the air inflator switch will be flashing. The ignition has to be on for the system to inflate, in order to raise the vehicle to the standard ride height after loading. The system can lower the vehicle to the standard ride height after unloading with the ignition on and also for up to 30 minutes after the ignition has been turned off. You may hear the compressor operating when you load your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts the vehicle to the standard ride height.

Load leveling will not function normally with the inflator hose attached to the inflator outlet. Remove the inflator hose from the outlet during loading and unloading. If the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time, some bleed down of the suspension is normal. Upon starting the vehicle, proper height will be achieved. Overload Protection The air suspension system is equipped with overload protection. Overload protection is designed to protect the air suspension system, and it is an indicator to the driver that the vehicle is overloaded. When the overload protection mode is on, it will not allow damage to the air compressor. However, do not overload the vehicle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35. If the suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). When the overload protection mode is activated, the compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one minute without raising the vehicle depending on the amount of overload. This will continue each time the ignition is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced below GAWR.

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Indicator Light The indicator light on the inflator switch in the rear passenger compartment also serves as an indicator for internal system error. If the indicator light is flashing without the load leveling function or the inflator being active, turn off the ignition. The next day turn on the ignition and check the indicator light. The vehicle can be driven with the light flashing, but if it is you should have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.

Towing a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would not be covered by your warranty. Always follow the instructions in this section and check with your dealer/retailer for more information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points: (cid:127) There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later

in this section.

(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

(cid:127) Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you

tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

(cid:127) You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

Three important considerations have to do with weight: (cid:127) the weight of the trailer, (cid:127) the weight of the trailer tongue (cid:127) and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

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Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.

See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Look in the following chart to find the maximum trailer weight for your vehicle.

Vehicle

Axle Ratio

2WD TrailBlazer (4.2 L L6 Engine)

4WD TrailBlazer (4.2 L L6 Engine)

2WD TrailBlazer (5.3 L V8 Engine)

4WD TrailBlazer (5.3 L V8 Engine)

3.42
3.73
4.10
3.42
3.73
4.10
3.42
3.73
3.42
3.73

Max. Trailer Wt.

5,400 lbs (2 449 kg) 5,900 lbs (2 676 kg) 6,400 lbs (2 903 kg) 5,200 lbs (2 359 kg) 5,700 lbs (2 585 kg) 6,200 lbs (2 812 kg) 6,300 lbs (2 858 kg) 6,800 lbs (3 084 kg) 6,100 lbs (2 767 kg) 6,600 lbs (2 994 kg)

*GCWR

10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,500 lbs (4 763 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 10,000 lbs (4 536 kg) 10,500 lbs (4 763 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg) 11,000 lbs (4 990 kg) 11,500 lbs (5 216 kg)

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Vehicle

Axle Ratio

Max. Trailer Wt.

*GCWR

**2WD TrailBlazer SS (6.0 L V8 Engine) **AWD TrailBlazer SS (6.0 L V8 Engine) *The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversion. The GCWR for your vehicle should not be exceeded. **TrailBlazer SS models with the 6.0L engine require Performance Sport Package (B4U).

11,500 lbs (5 216 kg)

11,500 lbs (5 216 kg)

6,800 lbs (3 084 kg)

6,600 lbs (2 994 kg)

4.10

4.10

Ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-5 for more information.

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:

You can expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).

The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum or 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 900 lbs (408 kg) with a weight distributing hitch. Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped with some of the latest options and you have a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:

Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle now

weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-35 for more information. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars.

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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches

(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle

When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.

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If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper. If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, your trailer brakes cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. Driving with a Trailer

{CAUTION:

If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can cause

CAUTION:

(Continued)

CAUTION:

(Continued)

unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-36. To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:

(cid:127) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.

(cid:127) Keep the rear-most windows closed. (cid:127) If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Dual Climate Control System on page 3-21 or Dual Automatic Climate Control System on page 3-24.

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.