2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer Owners Manual

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places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. 387 {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 493. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 208. 388 There may also be a light that comes on in the instrument panel to let you know if your gas cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 215 for more information. Filling a Portable Fuel Container {CAUTION: {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 208. Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. 389 Checking Things Under the Hood Hood Release {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 1. To open the hood, ﬁrst pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel on the driver’s side. 390 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release. 3. Lift the hood, release the prop rod from its retainer and put the prop rod into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the prop rod. Remove the prop rod from its slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 391 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 4.2L L6 engine, here is what you will see: 392 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 406. B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 416. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 423. D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 422. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 407. F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 414. H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See Jump Starting on page 429. J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 424. K. Battery. See Battery on page 428. L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 501. 393 When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see: 394 A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 416. B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 406. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 423. D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 407. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 414. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See Jump Starting on page 429. I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 422. J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 424. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 501. L. Battery. See Battery on page 428. 395 When you open the hood on the 6.0L V8 TrailBlazer SS engine, here is what you will see: 396 A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System on page 416. B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 406. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 423. D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 407. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap (Under Engine Cover). See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 398. G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap on page 414. H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See Jump Starting on page 429. I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 422. J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 424. K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 501. L. Battery. See Battery on page 428. 397 Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. When to Add Engine Oil L6 Engine V8 Engine If the oil is below the L mark for the L6 engine or the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V8 engine, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. 398 This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 510. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area (F) that shows the proper operating range for the L6 engine or above the cross-hatched area for the V8 engine, the engine could be damaged. Except 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. SS Model Only Remove the engine cover for access to the engine oil ﬁll cap as follows: 1. Undo the screw in the middle of the cover. 2. Pop the cover off of the stud on the driver’s side. 3. Angle the cover up and pull it off of the bracket. 4. Reverse above steps to reinstall the cover. 399 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Except Vehicles with 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 400 Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. 401 For 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine Vehicles Only Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. If you use oils that do not have the Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. 402 Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is ﬁlled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. 403 Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on, and, if your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 212 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 220. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 404 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. The change engine oil light will ﬂash while the system is resetting. 3. When the light stops ﬂashing, turn the key to LOCK. If the light/message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. 405 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws on the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter and lift off the cover. 2. Remove the air cleaner/ﬁlter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible. 3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 4.2L L6 Engine shown, 5.3L and 6.0L V8 Engines similar When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 517 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. 406 {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. Notice: If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission ﬂuid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 520, and be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission ﬂuid. 407 Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission ﬂuid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while. (cid:127) (cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold ﬂuid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for ﬁve minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the ﬂuid level be low during this cold check, you must check the ﬂuid hot before adding ﬂuid. Checking the ﬂuid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the ﬂuid level. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. 408 Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Flip the handle up and then remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for more information on location. 2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. If the dipstick does not go down the tube easily, turn the blade and try again until it is fully inserted in the tube. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The ﬂuid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, reinstall the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 409 Consistency of Readings Always check the ﬂuid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper ﬂuid level. If inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer. How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission ﬂuid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. Add ﬂuid only after checking the transmission ﬂuid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. (cid:127) After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section. (cid:127) When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then ﬂip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place. 410 Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 414. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 411 If you use an improper coolant Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527 for more information. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 412 Checking Coolant The engine coolant recovery tank is in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for more information on location. The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. 413 Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 416. If the pressure cap is not tightly Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for information on location. Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 207 for more information. If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the display will show an Engine Coolant Hot/Engine Overheated message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 220 for more information. 414 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. 415 If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 416 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 4.2L L6 Engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan The coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. 5.3L V8 Engine shown, 6.0L V8 Engine similar {CAUTION: A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. 417 If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 411 for more information. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 418 In cold weather, water can freeze and Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 419 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator 3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 411 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap. Remove the pressure cap. 420 4. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the FULL COLD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 421 Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages. Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 422 How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. For vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. For vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines, the level should be at the FULL mark. If necessary, add only enough ﬂuid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. 423 Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for reservoir location. Brakes Brake Fluid Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. (cid:127) Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. 424 Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake ﬂuid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 517. Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake ﬂuid without taking off the cap. Look at the brake ﬂuid reservoir. The ﬂuid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN, but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. 425 Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake system, the brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 493. (cid:127) 426 Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 427 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 429 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 428 Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL. 429 Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use this remote terminal instead of the terminal on the battery. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket on vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine or the engine accessory drive bracket for vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines, and is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 392 for more information on location. 430 {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. 431 The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, for this purpose. 5.3L V8 Engine shown, 6.0L V8 Engine similar 4.2L L6 Engine 432 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 433 All-Wheel Drive When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 434 How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. For vehicles equipped with the SS package, the proper level is from 0.6 inch to 1.6 inches (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough ﬂuid to reach the proper level. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. For vehicles equipped with the SS package, to add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 12378261, in Canada 10953455) meeting GM Speciﬁcation 9986115. To completely reﬁll after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694). Then ﬁll to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. 435 How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. 436 To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the ﬁller plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the ﬁller plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 527. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 439. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 437 Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on page 106 for more information. 2. Remove the two screws from the taillamp assembly. 3. Pull the taillamp assembly away from the vehicle. 438 4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the three retaining screws (B) from the socket plate. 5. Remove the socket plate. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it from the socket. 7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket and tighten the three screws. 9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the taillamp assembly by lining up the locator pins with the retainers in the vehicle’s body. 11. Reinstall the two screws and tighten. 12. Close the liftgate. License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws holding the license plate lamp lens. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Replace the lamp assembly lens and tighten the screws. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number License Plate Lamp Taillamps W5W 3157 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 2. Pull the lens away from the lamp assembly. 3. Pull the old bulb straight out from the bulb socket. 439 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 517. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position. 440 A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook 2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook. 3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly. 5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots. 4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted. A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation 6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot. 7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield. 441 Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Lift the wiper blade assembly up and out of the park rest position. 2. Pull the wiper blade assembly away from the backglass. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. 3. Rotate the wiper blade assembly, and pull it off of the wiper arm. Hold the wiper arm in position and push the blade away from the wiper arm. 442 4. Replace the wiper blade. 5. Return the wiper blade assembly to the park rest position. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle. {CAUTION: (cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452. (cid:127) Over inﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See High-Speed Operation on page 454 for inﬂation pressure adjustment for high speed driving. 443 Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire (Trailblazer SS) If your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. If your vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Winter Tires For cold weather driving conditions you may prefer to get tires designed for snow or ice, if your vehicle has P255/50R20 size tires. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 462. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all four wheel positions. (cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load range, and speed rating as your original equipment tires. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability. 444 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. 445 (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 465. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. 446 Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire (A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual conﬁguration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. (D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (E) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. 447 Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire 448 (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the ﬁrst two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. 449 DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. 450 Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 452 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 462. 451 UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 465. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 452 A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 350. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more.

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2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer Owners Manual