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weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-48 for more information. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.


4-65


Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches


(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle


When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must be adjusted so the distance remains the same both before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle. If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


4-66


If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) be sure to use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.


Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:


The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure. The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing. Driving with a Trailer


{CAUTION:


If you have a rear-most window open and you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or death. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-34.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


CAUTION:


(Continued)


To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:


(cid:127) Have your exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting on your trip.


(cid:127) Keep the rear-most windows closed.


If exhaust does come into your vehicle through a window in the rear or another opening, drive with your front, main heating or cooling system on and with the fan on any speed. This will bring fresh, outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the climate control setting for maximum air because it only recirculates the air inside your vehicle. See Dual Climate Control System on page 3-19 or Dual Automatic Climate Control System on page 3-22.


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.


4-67


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connection, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


4-68


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear, under heavy loads or hilly conditions. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


4-69


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into


PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).


5. Release the regular brakes.


4-70


{CAUTION:


It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-27.


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


Trailer Wiring Harness


Your vehicle has the seven-wire trailer towing harness. This harness may have a seven-pin universal heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped with the trailering package) that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform.


4-71


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If your vehicle is not equipped with the heavy-duty trailer connector, you may purchase one from your dealer. The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:127) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:127) Brown: Running Lamps (cid:127) White: Ground


Light Green: Back-up Lamps


(cid:127) Dark Blue: Electric Brakes (cid:127) Red: Battery Feed (The chassis wiring ring terminal must be fastened to a stud on the underhood electrical center before the trailer feed will become active.)


If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is available from your dealer. Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an electric trailer brake controller. These wires are located inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under the instrument panel. These wires should be connected to an electric trailer brake controller by your dealer or a qualified service center.


4-72


(cid:127) Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle ..............................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-18
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-23
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-24
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-26
Engine Coolant .............................................5-28
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-31


Cooling System ............................................5-33
Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-38
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-39
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-40
Brakes ........................................................5-41
Battery ........................................................5-44
Jump Starting ...............................................5-45
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-49
Rear Axle .......................................................5-50
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-51
Front Axle ......................................................5-52
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-53
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-53
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps ...................5-53
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-54
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-55
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-59
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-62
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-64
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-67
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-70


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-72
Buying New Tires .........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-78
Accessory Inflator .........................................5-78
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-79
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-80
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-82
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-85
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-91
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94
Spare Tire ...................................................5-97
Appearance Care ............................................5-98
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-98
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-99
Leather ......................................................5-100
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-100
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-101
Weatherstrips .............................................5-101


Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-101
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-102
Finish Care ................................................5-102
Windshield, Backglass, and Wiper Blades .......5-103
Aluminum Wheels .......................................5-103
Tires .........................................................5-104
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-104
Finish Damage ...........................................5-105
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-105
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-105
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-106
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-107
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-107
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-107
Electrical System ..........................................5-108
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108
Headlamps .................................................5-108
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-108
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-108
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-109
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-109
Rear Underseat Fuse Block ..........................5-116
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-121


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts,


and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-68. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


5-4


Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-107.


Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 4.2L L6 engine (VIN Code S) or the 5.3L V8 engine (VIN Code M), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


If your vehicle has the 6.0L V8 engine (VIN Code H), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.


5-5


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels.


5-6


Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-101. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42.


There may also be a light that comes on in the instrument panel to let you know if your gas cap is not properly installed. See Check Gas Cap Light on page 3-50 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


5-10


Hood Release


1. To open the hood, first pull the handle with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel on the driver’s side.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the


secondary hood release.


3. Lift the hood, release the prop rod from its retainer


and put the prop rod into the slot in the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the prop rod. Remove the prop rod from its slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 4.2L L6 engine, here is what you will see:


5-12


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-39.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of View).


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-26.


F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-45.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-41.


K. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44. L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-109.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 5.3L V8 engine, here is what you will see:


5-14


A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-26.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).


See Jump Starting on page 5-45.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-39.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-41.


K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-109.


L. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44.


5-15


When you open the hood on the 6.0L V8 TrailBlazer SS engine, here is what you will see:


5-16


A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Cooling System


on page 5-33.


B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-24.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-40.


D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-18. E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-26.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap (Under Engine Cover). See


“When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Radiator Pressure Cap


on page 5-31.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND). See


Jump Starting on page 5-45.


I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-39.


J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-41.


K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine


Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-109.


L. Battery. See Battery on page 5-44.


5-17


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil


L6 Engine


5-18


V8 Engine


If the oil is below the L mark for the L6 engine or the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick for the V8 engine, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-121. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area (F) that shows the proper operating range for the L6 engine or above the cross-hatched area for the V8 engine, your engine could be damaged.


Except 6.0L V8


(VIN Code H) Engine


6.0L V8


(VIN Code H) Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-19


SS Model Only Remove the engine cover for access to the engine oil fill cap as follows:


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Except Vehicles with 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine


1. Undo the screw in the middle of the cover. 2. Pop the cover off of the stud on the driver’s side. 3. Angle the cover up and pull it off of the bracket. 4. Reverse above steps to reinstall the cover.


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


5-20


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-21


For 6.0L V8 (VIN Code H) Engine Vehicles Only


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M


Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.


5-22


If you use oils that do not have the


Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed.


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil light will come on, or, if your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message will come. See Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-46 or DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-23


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil light or CHANGE ENGINE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly


three times within five seconds.


3. Turn the key to LOCK. If the light/message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. For vehicles with the Driver Information Center, see Driver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-50 to reset the system. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long.


5-24


Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.


4.2L L6 Engine shown,


5.3L and 6.0L V8
Engines similar


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws on the engine air cleaner/filter


and lift off the cover.


2. Remove the air cleaner/filter from the housing. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.


3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. 4. Reinstall the cover and tighten the screws.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-25


Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


5-26


Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:127) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:127) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:127) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.


(cid:127) Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower


level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


Consistency of Readings Always check the fluid level at least twice using the procedure described previously. Consistency (repeatable readings) is important to maintaining proper fluid level. If inconsistent readings persist, contact your dealer.


5-27


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:127) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


(cid:127) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


5-28


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature.


Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


(cid:127) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives


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Checking Coolant


The engine coolant recovery tank is in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. The cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


5-30


Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-33.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-42 for more information. If your vehicle has a Driver Information Center (DIC), the display will show an Engine Coolant Hot/Engine Overheated message. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55 for more information.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.


5-31


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan


speed and open the windows as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


5-32


(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


5.3L V8 Engine shown, 6.0L V8 Engine similar


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan


4.2L L6 Engine


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan


5-33


If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


{CAUTION:


The coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system.


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


5-34


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle.


5-35


If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-36


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when


the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Then keep turning the pressure cap. Remove the


pressure cap.


3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL®


coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL


COLD mark.


5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but


leave the radiator pressure cap off.


5-37


Engine Fan Noise Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages so you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during


this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


5-38


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on


the dipstick.


For vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine, the level should be at the C (Cold) mark. For vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines, the level should be at the FULL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


5-39


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


5-40


(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


5-41


Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.


{CAUTION:


Look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-101.


After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN, but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


5-42


(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.


5-43


Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-45 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location.


5-44


Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper


cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL.


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{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets, if equipped. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help to save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open both hoods and locate the batteries. Find


the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on each battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use this remote terminal instead of the terminal on the battery. The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket on vehicles with the 4.2L L6 engine or the engine accessory drive bracket for vehicles with the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines, and is marked GND (Ground). See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


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{CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


6. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect


it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND, for this purpose.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If


it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


4.2L L6 Engine


5.3L V8 Engine shown, 6.0L V8 Engine similar The remote negative (−) terminal is located on the front engine lift bracket for the 4.2L L6 engine, and on the accessory drive bracket for the 5.3L or 6.0L V8 engines.


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Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


All-Wheel Drive When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


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How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle.


What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. For vehicles equipped with the SS package, to add lubricant when the level is low, use SAE 75W–90
Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. U.S. 12378261, in Canada 10953455) meeting GM Specification 9986115. To completely refill after draining, add 4 ounces (118 ml) of Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part No. U.S. 1052358, in Canada 992694). Then fill to the bottom of the filler plug hole with the Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Four-Wheel Drive Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.


How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


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Front Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole. When the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use To determine what kind of lubricant to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-54. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate/Liftglass on


page 2-13 for more information.


2. Remove the


two screws from the lamp assembly.


3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.


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7. Push the new bulb into the socket until it clicks. 8. Reinstall the socket and screws. 9. Reconnect the wiring harness. 10. Reinstall the lamp assembly and tighten the screws. 11. Close the liftgate.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp Rear Turn Signal Lamps Taillamps


Bulb Number


3157
3157


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


4. Unclip the wiring harness (A) and remove the three


socket retaining screws (B).


5. Remove the socket by releasing the retaining tabs. 6. Holding the socket, pull the bulb to release it


from the socket.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm


until it locks into a vertical position.


A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab


D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook


2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking


tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.


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3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.


4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),


notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.


5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.


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A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation C. Incorrect Installation


6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.


7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly


onto the windshield.


Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement See Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement on page 5-55
for instructions on how to change the backglass wiper blade. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used


tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your

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