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If you use the proper coolant, you do not
What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
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Checking Coolant The engine coolant surge tank is located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle at the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant surge tank, but be careful not to spill it.
{CAUTION:
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.
{CAUTION:
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark or a little higher.
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-32. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
If your engine catches fire because you
Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-39.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
A. Coolant Surge Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.
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When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, you may have a leak at the surge cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.
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In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant in the coolant surge tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50
mixture of clean drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23 for more information.{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.
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Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir is located in the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. The cap to the reservoir has this symbol on it. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
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Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is,you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
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Checking Brake Fluid You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark. What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
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{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-74.
(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
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Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery. The battery is located under the rear of the vehicle. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-37 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-85.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or
(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to
ignite.
burn you.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
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3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio.
4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and
negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery.
The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
Ignoring these steps could result in costly
Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put your transmission in PARK (P) before setting the parking brake.
If you leave your radio or other accessories
Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.
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Press inward on the tabs located on the outboard sides of the remote positive (+) terminal cover and pull outward to access the terminal. The remote negative (−) terminal is located near the power steering fluid reservoir. It is marked “GND (−).” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located on the rear underside of the vehicle. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose.
{CAUTION:
An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to the negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And don’t connect the negative (−) cable to negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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6. Connect the red
positive (+) cable to the remote positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
9. Connect the other end
of the negative (−) cable to the remote negative (−) terminal, marked GND (−), on the vehicle with the dead battery.
Don’t let the other end of the cable touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it
won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
If the jumper cables are removed in the
Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal (GND)
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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check the rear axle fluid unless there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in the system indicates that you have a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13
for the type of fluid to use. Headlamp Aiming If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to the dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps by following the procedure in the service manual for your vehicle. Bulb Replacement See Replacement Bulbs on page 5-48 for the proper types of bulbs to use. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department.5-43
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps To replace the headlamp bulbs do the following: 1. Turn the front wheels as far as they will go in the
opposite direction of the bulb that is being changed.
2. Reach underneath the vehicle and locate the
headlamp door. Use a tool to remove the fastener retaining the door.
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3. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it from
the assembly. There are separate sockets for the high and low-beam headlamps.
4. Pull the socket out of the headlamp assembly.
5. Separate the bulb assembly from the wiring
harness and replace the unit.
6. Put the socket back into the headlamp assembly in
the vehicle by turning it clockwise.
7. Reinstall the headlamp cover and tighten the
fastener.
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Parking Lamps Front Turn and Parking Lamps To change the front turn or parking lamps do the following: 1. Locate the bar that runs across the front of the
vehicle and remove the two screws located near the front of the hood that hold the bar in place.
2. Release the tabs that attach the bar to the
headlamps.
3. Pull outward on the bar to remove it from the vehicle.
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Sidemarker Lamps To replace the bulbs in the sidemarker lamps do the following: 1. Reach underneath the vehicle to locate and release
the clips holding the lamp assembly in place.
2. Push the assembly forward. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise until you
hear a click.
4. Locate and release the tabs behind the grille that hold the lamp assembly in place. Unsnap the tabs and push forward to remove the lamp assembly. 5. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to access
the bulb.
6. Pull the old bulb out of the socket and push in a
new bulb.
7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.
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4. Pull the old bulb out of the socket and push in a
new bulb.
5. Reverse steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit. See your dealer.
Taillamps To change the taillamp bulbs, do the following: 1. Reach underneath the rear of the vehicle.
3. Pull the old bulb out of the socket and push in a
new bulb.
4. Reinstall the socket into the lamp assembly and
turn it clockwise to secure.
2. Find the bulb socket, twist counterclockwise, and
remove it from the lamp assembly.
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Back-Up Lamps To replace the bulb in the back-up lamps, do the following: 1. Reach underneath the vehicle near the license
plate and find the bulb socket.
3. Turn the bulb counterclockwise and then pull
outward to remove it from the socket.
4. Insert a new bulb into the socket and turn it
clockwise to secure it.
5. Reverse the previous steps to reinstall the lamp
assembly on the vehicle.
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamp Back-Up Lamps
High Beam Headlamp Low Beam Headlamp
Parking Lamps
Sidemarker Lamps
Taillamps
Turn Signal Lamps
Bulb Number 2057
9005HB3
H11
T20
194
3157
T20*For all other bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.
2. To remove the socket from the lamp assembly,
locate and squeeze the release tab while turning the socket counterclockwise.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected periodically for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. Notice: Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield. 1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm
until it locks into a vertical position.
A. Blade Assembly B. Arm Assembly C. Locking Tab
D. Blade Pivot E. Hook Slot F. Arm Hook
2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking
tab. Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.
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3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.
4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D),
notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.
5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.
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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.
{CAUTION:
(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used
tires are dangerous.
(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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A. Claw in Notch B. Correct Installation
C. Incorrect Installation
6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook.
Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.
7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly
onto the windshield.
Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all
four wheel positions.
(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size as your
original equipment tires.
See Buying New Tires on page 5-60. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustration is an example of a typical P-Metric tire sidewall.
CAUTION:
(Continued)
(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact, such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.
If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.
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(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the Tire Size illustration later in this section for more detail.
(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.
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Tire Size The following illustration shows, an example of, a typical passenger car tire size.
(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-61.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
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(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C, of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75 percent as high as it is wide.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Definitions
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.
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GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. There are 6.9 kilopascals (kPa) to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.
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Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60.
UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-61.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 pounds (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight and cargo weight.
Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.
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Inflation - Tire Pressure The Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32, for examples of these labels and where they are located on your vehicle. If you’ll be driving at high speeds (speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher), where it is legal, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or to 35 psi (244 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example below. When you end this high-speed driving, return to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information Label. Example: You’ll find maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press.
For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 35 psi (244 kPa) for the front and rear tires. Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:
Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading
(cid:127) Bad wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Bad fuel economy If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Bad handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount.
If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation The tires on your vehicle are different sizes front to rear. Due to this, your tires should not be rotated. Each tire and wheel should be used only in the position it is in. Check your tires and wheels regularly for unusual wear and damage. Also see, Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4, When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-60
and Wheel Replacement on page 5-63.5-59
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
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The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the Certification/Tire label or the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32, for examples of these labels and where they are located on your vehicle. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, load range, speed rating, traction, ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow).
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes (other than those originally installed on your vehicle) may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size and type tires on all four wheels.
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type
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snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
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traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to the body and chassis.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to a crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause a crash. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or the threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a crash.
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Used Replacement Wheels
Tire Chains
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.
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If a Tire Goes Flat Your vehicle has no spare tire, no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire. It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-51. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blow out” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blow out, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blow out, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and stopping. Then do this: 1. Turn on the hazard warning flashers. 2. Set the parking brake firmly. 3. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Turn off the engine. 5. Inspect the flat tire. If the tire has been separated from the wheel or has damaged sidewalls or large tears that allow rapid air loss, call a tire repair facility. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If the flat tire is due to a slow leak caused by a nail or other similar road hazard, the tire inflator kit may be used to repair the damaged tire temporarily. The kit uses a liquid tire sealant to seal small punctures in the tread area of the tire. The flat tire is then inflated to at least 26 psi (179 kPa) and driven to evenly distribute the tire sealant. The tire pressure is checked after driving for a maximum of 10 minutes to see if the slow leak has been stopped. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire up to the standard operating pressure as shown on the tire and loading information label found on center pillar near the door latch or on the rear edge of the driver’s door. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.
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You should have the damaged tire repaired as soon as possible. The tire sealant is a temporary repair only. For more information regarding the tire inflator kit see Tire Inflator Kit on page 5-66. Notice: 19 psi (131 kPa), the vehicle should not be driven. Damage to the tire may be severe and the sealant will not be effective. Contact Roadside Assistance, see Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
If the tire pressure has dropped below
Tire Inflator Kit Your vehicle is equipped with a tire inflator kit. It is located behind the driver’s seat of your vehicle. Use the following directions for use of your tire inflator kit instead of directions you may find on or near the kit.
The repair kit contains the following:
A. Air Compressor B. Tire Sealant C. Sealant Filling Hose D. Air Compressor Accessory Plug E. Air Compressor
Inflator Hose
F. Air Pressure Gage G. Sealant Filling
Hose Plug
H. Valve Core Remover I. Spare Valve Core J. 55 mph (90 km/h) Label
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Accessing the Tire Inflator Kit To access the tire inflator kit for use, do the following: 1. Loosen the two nuts holding the tire inflator kit cover
in place.
Tire Sealant The kit contains a liquid sealant that when injected into a flat tire, may temporarily repair nail holes or cuts in the tread area of the tire. The tire sealant cannot repair tire damage caused while driving on a flat tire or a tire that has had a “blow out” or a tire that has punctures in the sidewall areas. The tire sealant solution is a one-time use application for one tire only. Check the tire sealant expiration date; the sealant may not be as effective beyond the expiration date. The tire sealant can be peeled off easily after drying. Using Tire Sealant Before using the tire sealant, be sure the valve stem area is clean and free of debris, such as mud, snow, ice, brake dust, etc. The valve stem should be located at the bottom of the tire before applying the tire sealant.
2. Remove the cover. 3. Grasp the handle and pull the tire inflator kit out. 4. Open the tire inflator kit case by lifting up the
two tabs located on either side of the kit handle.
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To apply the tire sealant, do the following: 1. Turn the valve cap on the tire valve
counterclockwise to remove it.
2. Remove the valve core using the valve core tool
provided in the tire inflator kit. An extra valve core is also provided in the kit.
3. Shake the bottle to make sure the sealant is well
mixed.
4. Attach the tire sealant filling hose to the bottle of
tire sealant to pierce the seal on the bottle.
5. Remove the sealing plug from the end of the filling
hose and insert the end of the hose over the tire valve.
6. Hold the bottle upside down over the tire valve and
squeeze the sealant into the tire until the bottle is empty.
7. Remove the sealant filling hose from the tire valve
and reinstall the sealing plug.
8. Insert the valve core back into the tire valve. Turn valve core tool clockwise to secure the valve core.
Once the tire sealant is applied, you can use the compressor to inflate the tire.
Air Compressor
A. Inflating Hose B. Air Pressure Gage
C. ON/OFF Switch D. Air Compressor Plug
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The air compressor included in the tire inflator kit was designed exclusively for your vehicle. After the sealant has been injected into the flat tire, use the air compressor to inflate the flat tire. Follow these instructions: 1. Put the transmission in PARK (P) and apply the
parking brake. See Shifting Into Park (P) on page 2-19 and Parking Brake on page 2-18.
2. Attach the nozzle on the compressor to the valve stem of the flat tire, and then insert the plug into an accessory power outlet on your vehicle.
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{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
Idling the engine in a closed-in place or with the climate control system off can cause deadly carbon monoxide (CO). See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
Notice: The car engine must be running to avoid draining the battery while running the air compressor. 3. Start your vehicle. 4. Turn the compressor on to inflate the tire.
Inflating something too much can make it explode, and you or others could be injured. Be sure to read the inflator instructions, and inflate the tire to its recommended pressure. Do not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
5. Inflate the tire to at
least 26 psi (179 kPa), but not more than 36 psi (248 kPa).
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If the air compressor runs for more than
Notice: six minutes, at a time, it may overheat. The excessive heat could damage the compressor. Always operate the compressor for six minutes or less when inflating a tire.
6. Inflate the tire for up to a maximum of six minutes.
7. If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure is reached in
six minutes or less, disconnect the air compressor.
8. Attach the enclosed
maximum speed label to the inside upper left corner of the windshield or to the face of the radio/clock.
The maximum speed label reminds you to drive cautiously and not to exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) until you have the damaged tire inspected and repaired.
If 26 psi (179 kPa) tire pressure cannot be
Notice: reached after six minutes the vehicle should not be driven further. Damage to the tire is severe and the sealant will not be effective. Remove the air compressor plug from the accessory power outlet and unscrew the inflating hose from the tire valve. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index.
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9. Drive the vehicle immediately to distribute the tire
sealant evenly inside the tire.
10. After driving for 10 minutes, recheck the tire
pressure. If the tire pressure is 19 psi (131 kPa) or more, inflate the tire to the standard operating pressure as shown on the Certification/Tire label located on the edge of the driver’s door. If the tire pressure has dropped below 19 psi (131 kPa), do not continue to drive the vehicle. The tire is severely damaged and the tire sealant will not be effective. Repair or replace the tire as soon as possible.
Tire Inflator Kit Storage The tire inflator kit is stored behind the driver’s seat in your vehicle. To reinstall the kit after use, do the following:
{CAUTION:
Storing the tire inflator kit or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store the tire inflator kit in the proper place.
1. Place the air compressor pump and accessories
into the inflator kit case.
2. Move the driver’s seat forward and tilt the seatback
forward out of the way.
3. Place the cover over the tire inflator kit. 4. Hold the kit with the cover on against the back wall
of the passenger compartment in the designated storage area as you perform the next step.
5. Reinstall the two nuts holding the tire inflator kit
cover in place.
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Do not use any of these unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol
Laundry Soap
(cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. Cleaning Fabric/Carpet Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-81.
Appearance Care Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space. When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you are cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean your vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner
Turpentine Lacquer Thinner
(cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can — before
they set.
(cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean
area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.
Using Cleaner on Fabric 1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt. 2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.
Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Follow the directions on the container label. 4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate
the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a
sponge to remove any excess cleaner.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened
towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge
the soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions
described earlier.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,
treat the area with a water/baking soda solution: 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking sold to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.
4. Let dry. Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows: 1. Carefully scrape off excess stain. 2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry
completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions
described earlier.
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(cid:127) Cleaning Vinyl Use warm water and a clean cloth. (cid:127) Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.
You may have to do this more than once. Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
Cleaning Leather Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.
For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.
(cid:127) Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
(cid:127) Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned
immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions. Cleaning Interior Plastic Components Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish. Cleaning Glass Surfaces Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-81. Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner.
If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning
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(cid:127) (cid:127) Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.
{CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability. Washing Your Vehicle The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-81. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
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If you drive your vehicle through an
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle. Notice: automatic car wash that does not have enough clearance for the wide rear tires and wheels, you could damage your vehicle. Verify with the manager of the car wash that your vehicle will fit before entering the car wash or use a touchless car wash. Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.” Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-81.
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
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Cleaning Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels Your vehicle will have either aluminum or chrome-plated wheels. Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied. The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Do not use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels. Do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary. Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts. Cleaning the Windshield and Wiper Blades If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield. Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water. Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water. Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
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Cleaning Tires To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner. Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing products on your vehicle may damage the paint finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing, always wipe off any overspray from all painted surfaces on your vehicle.
Sheet Metal Damage If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection. Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
Finish Damage Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair expense. Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection. At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed. Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations, and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface. Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing the following products.
Description
Polishing Cloth Wax-Treated Tar and Road Oil Remover Chrome Cleaner and Polish White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
Vinyl Cleaner
Glass Cleaner
Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner
Finish Enhancer
Usage
Interior and exterior polishing cloth. Removes tar, road oil and asphalt. Use on chrome or stainless steel. Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls. Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops. Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints. Removes dirt and grime from chrome wheels and wire wheel covers. Removes dust, fingerprints, and surface contaminants. Spray on wipe off.
Description
Usage
Cleaner Wax
Swirl Remover Polish
Wash Wax Concentrate
Foaming Tire Shine Low Gloss
Removes swirl marks, fine scratches and other light surface contamination. Removes light scratches and protects finish. Cleans, shines and protects in one easy step, no wiping necessary. Medium foaming shampoo. Cleans and lightly waxes. Biodegradable and phosphate free. Quickly and easily removes spots and stains from carpets, vinyl and cloth upholstery. Odorless spray odor eliminator used on fabrics, vinyl, leather and carpet. See your General Motors parts department for these products. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.
Odor Eliminator
Spot Lifter
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Vehicle Identification
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Service Parts Identification Label You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:
your VIN, the model designation, paint information and a list of all production options and special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration. Engine Identification The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Electrical System
Add-On Electrical Equipment Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-55.
Headlamps The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.
Windshield Wiper Fuses The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.
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Fuses and Circuit Breakers The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems. Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without — like the radio or cigarette lighter — and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage. Replace it as soon as you can.
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Center Console Fuse Block
The center console fuse block is located on the center console between the two seats.
To remove the fuse block cover and access the fuses, do the following:
1. Move the passenger’s seat all the way forward and
tilt the seatback forward. See Power Seats on
