XL (Explicit Language Channels)
Updating
XL on the radio display, after the channel name, indicates content with explicit language. Updating encryption code
No Signl
Loss of signal
Loading
Off Air
CH Unavl
No Info
No Info
3-84
Acquiring channel audio (after 4 second delay)
Channel not in service
Channel no longer available
Artist Name/Feature not available Song/Program Title not available
These channels, or any others, can be blocked at a customer’s request, by calling 1-800-852-XMXM (9696).
The encryption code in your receiver is being updated, and no action is required. This process should take no longer than 30 seconds. Your system is functioning correctly, but you are in a location that is blocking the XM signal. When you move into an open area, the signal should return. Your radio system is acquiring and processing audio and text data. No action is needed. This message should disappear shortly. This channel is not currently in service. Tune to another channel. This previously assigned channel is no longer assigned. Tune to another station. If this station was one of your presets, you may need to choose another station for that preset button. No artist information is available at this time on this channel. Your system is working properly. No song title information is available at this time on this channel. Your system is working properly.
Radio Display
Message
XM™ Radio Messages (cont’d)
Condition
Action Required
No Info
No Info
Not Found
XM Lock
Radio ID
Unknown
Check XM
Category Name not available No Text/Informational message available No channel available for the chosen category Theft lock active
Radio ID label (channel 0)
Radio ID not known (should only be if hardware failure) Hardware failure
No category information is available at this time on this channel. Your system is working properly. No text or informational messages are available at this time on this channel. Your system is working properly. There are no channels available for the category you selected. Your system is working properly. The XM receiver in your vehicle may have previously been in another vehicle. For security purposes, XM receivers cannot be swapped between vehicles. If you receive this message after having your vehicle serviced, check with the servicing facility. If you tune to channel 0, you will see this message alternating with your XM Radio 8 digit radio ID label. This label is needed to activate your service. If you receive this message when you tune to channel 0, you may have a receiver fault. Consult with your dealer.
If this message does not clear within a short period of time, your receiver may have a fault. Consult with your retail location.
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Playing a Cassette Tape Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. The longer side with the tape visible should face to the right. If the ignition is on and the radio is off, the tape can be inserted and will begin playing. A tape symbol is shown on the display whenever a tape is inserted. If you hear nothing but a garbled sound, the tape may not be in squarely. Press EJT to remove the tape and start over. If you want to insert a tape while the ignition is off, first press the EJT button or the DISPL knob. While the tape is playing, use VOL, TUNE, SEEK, and PSCAN controls just as you do for the radio. The radio will display TAPE and an arrow showing which side of the tape is playing. Your tape bias is set automatically when a metal or chrome tape is inserted. If an error appears on the display, see “Cassette Tape Messages” later in this section.
1 PREV (Previous): Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for previous to work. Press this pushbutton to go to the previous selection on the tape if the current selection has been playing for less than three seconds. If pressed when the current selection has been playing from 3 to 13 seconds, it will go to the beginning of the previous selection or the beginning of the current selection, depending upon the position on the tape. If pressed when the current selection has been playing for more than 13 seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current selection.
SEEK and a negative number will appear on the display while the cassette player is in the previous mode. Pressing this pushbutton multiple times will increase the number of selections to be searched back, up to -9.
2 NEXT: Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for next to work. Press this pushbutton to go to the next selection on the tape. If you press this pushbutton more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the tape. SEEK and a positive number will appear on the display. To forward through each selection press the right SEEK arrow.
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3 REV (Reverse): Press this pushbutton to reverse quickly within the tape. Press it again to return to playing speed. The radio will play while the tape reverses. The station frequency and REV will appear on the display. You may select stations during reverse operation using TUNE and the SEEK arrows.
4 FWD (Forward): Press this pushbutton to advance quickly within the tape. Press the pushbutton again to return to playing speed. The radio will play while the tape advances. The station frequency and FWD will appear on the display. You may select stations during forward operation using TUNE and the SEEK arrows. 5 X SIDE: Press this pushbutton to play the other side of the tape. q SEEK r: If the right or the left arrow is held or pressed more than once, the player will continue moving forward or backward through the tape. SEEK and a positive or a negative number will appear on the display.
BAND: Press this button to listen to the radio when a cassette tape or a CD is playing. The inactive cassette or CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.
TAPE CD: Press this button to play a cassette tape or a CD when listening to the radio. The inactive cassette or CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening. Z EJT (Eject): Press this button to eject a tape. Eject may be activated with the radio off. Cassette tapes may be loaded with the radio off if this button is pressed first.
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Cassette Tape Messages
CHK TAPE (Check Tape): If this message appears on the display, the tape will not play because of one of the following errors:
The tape is tight and the player cannot turn the tape hubs. Remove the tape. Hold the tape with the open end down and try to turn the right hub counterclockwise with a pencil. Turn the tape over and repeat. If the hubs do not turn easily, your tape may be damaged and should not be used in the player. Try a new tape to make sure your player is working properly. The tape is broken. Try a new tape. The tape is wrapped around the tape head. Attempt to get the cassette out. Try a new tape.
CLEAN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See Care of Your Cassette Tape Player on page 3-93.
If the cassette is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good cassette.
If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your dealer. If you radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to the dealer when reporting the problem. CD Adapter Kits It is possible to use a portable CD player with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass feature on your tape player. To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps: 1. Turn the radio off. 2. Press and hold the TAPE CD button for five seconds. READY will appear on the display, indicating the feature is active.
3. Insert the adapter into the cassette slot. It will
power up the radio and begin playing.
The override feature will remain active until EJT is pressed.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Playing a CD Insert a CD partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in and the CD should begin playing. The CD symbol will appear on the display. If you want to insert a CD with the ignition off, first press the EJT button or the DISPL knob. If you turn off the ignition or radio with a CD in the player, it will stay in the player. When you turn on the ignition or the radio, the CD will start playing, where it stopped, if it was the last selected audio source. As each new track starts to play, the track number will appear on the display. The CD player can play the smaller 8 cm single CDs with an adapter ring. Full-size CDs and the smaller CDs are loaded in the same manner. If playing a CD-R the sound quality may be reduced due to CD-R quality, the method of recording, the quality of the music that has been recorded, and the way the CD-R has been handled. You may experience an increase in skipping, difficulty in finding tracks, and/or difficulty in loading and ejecting. If these problems occur try a known good CD. Do not add paper labels to CDs, they could get caught in the CD player.
Do not play 3 inch CDs without a standard adapter CD. If an error appears on the display, see “CD Messages” later in this section.
1 PREV (Previous): Press this pushbutton to go to the start of the current track if more than eight seconds have played. TRACK and the track number will appear on the display. If you hold this pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving backward through the CD.
2 NEXT: Press this pushbutton to go to the next track. TRACK and the track number will appear on the display. If you hold this pushbutton or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the CD.
3 REV (Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to reverse quickly within a track. Press and hold this pushbutton for less than two seconds to reverse at six times the normal playing speed. Press and hold it for more than two seconds to reverse at 17 times the normal playing speed. Release it to play the passage. The display will show ET and the elapsed time of the track.
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4 FWD (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to advance quickly within a track. Press and hold this pushbutton for less than two seconds to advance at six times the normal playing speed. Press and hold it for more than two seconds to advance at 17 times the normal playing speed. Release it to play the passage. The display will show ET and the elapsed time of the track.
6 RDM (Random): Press this pushbutton to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RDM ON will appear on the display. RDM T and the track number will appear on the display when each track starts to play. Press RDM again to turn off random play. RDM OFF will appear on the display. q SEEK r: Press the left arrow to go to the start of the current or of the previous track. Press the right arrow to go to the start of the next track. If you hold either arrow or press it more than once, the player will continue moving backward or forward through the CD.
DISPL (Display): Press this knob to see how long the current track has been playing. ET and the elapsed time of the track will appear on the display. To change the default on the display (track or elapsed time), press the knob until you see the display you want, then hold the knob for two seconds. The radio will produce one beep and the selected display will now be the default.
BAND: Press this button to listen to the radio when a cassette tape or a CD is playing. The inactive cassette or CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.
TAPE CD: Press this button to play a cassette tape or a CD when listening to the radio. The inactive cassette or CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening. Z EJT (Eject): Press this button to eject a CD. Eject may be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs may be loaded with the radio and ignition off if this button is pressed first.
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Theft-Deterrent Feature THEFTLOCK® is designed to discourage theft of your radio. The feature works automatically by learning a portion of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). If the radio is moved to a different vehicle, it will not operate and LOCKED will be displayed. When the ignition is off and RAP is not active, the blinking red light indicates that THEFTLOCK is armed. With THEFTLOCK activated, your radio will not operate if stolen.
CD Messages If CHECK CD appears on the display and the CD comes out, it could be for one of the following reasons:
It is very hot. When the temperature returns to normal, the CD should play.
(cid:127) You are driving on a very rough road. When the
road becomes smooth, the CD should play. The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down. The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and try again. There may have been a problem while burning the CD. The label may be caught in the CD player.
If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason, try a known good CD. If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be corrected, contact your dealer. If your radio displays an error message, write it down and provide it to your dealer when reporting the problem.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) SEEK by TYPE: Press this button to go to a station with the last selected PTY and the last selected PTY will appear on the display, if it is not already showing. If a station with the selected PTY is not found, the radio will return to the original station. If both SEEK by TYPE and TRAF are on, the radio will search for stations with the selected PTY and traffic announcements.
PRESET: Press this button to play a station you have programmed on the radio preset pushbuttons.
MODE: Press this button to choose FM1, FM2, AM, or XM1 or XM2, (48 contiguous US states, if equipped). If a cassette tape or CD is playing, it will stop and the radio will play.
MUTE: Press this button to silence the system. Press it again to turn on the sound. w VOL x (Volume): Press the up or the down arrow to increase or to decrease volume.
Audio Steering Wheel Controls If your vehicle has this feature, you can control certain radio functions using the buttons on your steering wheel.
w SEEK x: Press the up or the down arrow to seek to the next or to the previous station.
If a cassette tape or CD is playing, the player will advance with the up arrow and reverse with the down arrow. Holding SEEK for three seconds or more will activate the preset scan mode.
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Understanding Radio Reception AM The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise. FM Stereo FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go. XM™ Satellite Radio Service (48 Contiguous US States) XM™ Satellite Radio gives you digital radio reception from coast to coast. Just as with FM, tall buildings or hills can interfere with satellite radio signals, causing the sound to come and go. Your radio may display NO SIGNAL to indicate interference.
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes, or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat. If they are not, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every 50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLEAN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. For best results, use a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn. The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealer.
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The broken tape detection feature of your cassette tape player may identify the cleaning cassette as a damaged tape, in error. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps: 1. Turn the ignition on. 2. Turn the radio off. 3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX or the TAPE CD
button for five seconds. READY will appear on the display and a cassette symbol will flash for five seconds.
4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette. 5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s
recommended cleaning time.
After the cleaning cassette is ejected, the broken tape detection feature will be active again. You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner. The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning cassette is not recommended.
After you clean the player, press and hold the EJT button for five seconds to reset the CLEAN indicator. The radio will display CLEANED to show the indicator was reset. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.
Care of Your CDs Handle CDs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a CD is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the side without writing when handling CDs. Pick up CDs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.
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Care of Your CD Player The use of CD lens cleaners for CDs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.
Backglass Antenna The AM-FM antenna is integrated with the rear window defogger, located in the rear window. Be sure that the inside surface of the rear window is not scratched and that the lines on the glass are not damaged. If the inside surface is damaged, it could interfere with radio reception. Also, for proper radio reception, the antenna connector at the top-center of the rear window needs to be properly attached to the post on the glass. Notice: Using a razor blade or sharp object to clear the inside rear window may damage the rear window antenna and/or the rear window defogger. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not clear the inside rear window with sharp objects.
Notice: Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting with metallic film. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Any damage caused to your backglass antenna due to metallic tinting materials will not be covered by your warranty. Because this antenna is built into your rear window, there is a reduced risk of damage caused by car washes and vandals. If you choose to add a cellular telephone to your vehicle, and the antenna needs to be attached to the glass, be sure that you do not damage the grid lines for the AM-FM antenna. There is enough space between the lines to attach a cellular telephone antenna without interfering with radio reception Do not apply aftermarket glass tinting to the back glass. The metallic film in some tinting materials will interfere with or distort the incoming radio reception. Care must be taken when cleaning the rear window because it breaks in the resistive material heating element and will adversely affect radio and defogger performance. See your dealer for details.
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XM™ Satellite Radio Antenna System (48 Contiguous US States) Your XM™ Satellite Radio antenna is located on the roof of your vehicle. Keep this antenna clear of snow and ice build up for clear radio reception. The performance of your XM system may be affected if your sunroof is open.
Vehicle Customization Settings
Your audio system can be used to control vehicle
customization settings using the DISPL knob when the
radio is off. See Vehicle Personalization on page 2-42
for more information.
Chime Level Adjustment
The radio is the vehicle chime producer. To change the
volume level, press and hold pushbutton 6 with the
ignition on and the radio power off. The chime volume
level will change from the normal level to loud, and
LOUD will appear on the display. To change back to the
default or normal setting, press and hold pushbutton 6
again. The chime level will change from the loud level
to normal, and NORMAL will appear on the display.
Each time the chime volume is changed, three chimes
will sound as an example of the new volume selected.
Removing the radio and not replacing it with a
factory radio or chime module will disable vehicle
chimes.
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Section 4
Driving Your Vehicle
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle ..........4-2
Defensive Driving ...........................................4-2
Drunken Driving .............................................4-2
Control of a Vehicle ........................................4-6
Braking .........................................................4-6
Traction Control System (TCS) .......................4-10
Steering ......................................................4-12
Off-Road Recovery .......................................4-14
Passing .......................................................4-14
Loss of Control .............................................4-16
Driving at Night ............................................4-17
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads ..................4-18
City Driving ..................................................4-21
Freeway Driving ...........................................4-22
Before Leaving on a Long Trip .......................4-23
Highway Hypnosis ........................................4-24
Hill and Mountain Roads ................................4-24
Winter Driving ..............................................4-26
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow ...4-30
Towing ..........................................................4-31
Towing Your Vehicle .....................................4-31
Recreational Vehicle Towing ...........................4-31
Loading Your Vehicle ....................................4-33
Towing a Trailer ...........................................4-38
4-1
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle
Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone on page 1-10. Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It is the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.
Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task — such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor — makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It is the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:
Judgment
(cid:127) Muscular Coordination (cid:127) Vision (cid:127) Attentiveness.
4-2
(cid:127) The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:
The amount of alcohol consumed The drinker’s body weight The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.
Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, more than 16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured. Many adults — by some estimates, nearly half the adult population — choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol. There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws. The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if someone plans to drive? It is a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem.
4-3
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) According to the American Medical Association, a 180 lb (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of liquors like whiskey, gin or vodka.
It is the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level. There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight will when each has the same number of drinks. The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent. In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we have seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.
4-4
{CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious — or even fatal — collision if you drive after drinking. Please do not drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater! The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There is something else about drinking and driving that many people do not know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
4-5
Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
Braking Braking action involves perception time and reaction time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That is reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it is pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it is easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle. Also see Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10.
4-6
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life. If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.
When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.
4-7
The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.
4-8
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti-lock brakes. Using Anti-Lock Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal. Braking in Emergencies At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking. If you have anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you do not have anti-lock, your first reaction — to hit the brake pedal hard and hold
it down — may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can not respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic. If you do not have anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You can do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure. In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. If you do have anti-lock, it is different. See “Anti-Lock Brake System” in this section. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.
4-9
Traction Control System (TCS) Your vehicle is equipped with a Traction Control System that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power and may also upshift the transaxle and apply the front brakes to limit wheel spin.
United States
Canada
This light will come on when your Traction Control System is limiting wheel spin. See Traction Active Message on page 3-43. You may feel or hear the system working, but this is normal.
4-10
If your vehicle is in cruise control when the traction control system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control Light on page 3-41. The Traction Control System operates in all transaxle shift lever positions. But the system can upshift the transaxle only as high as the shift lever position you’ve chosen, so you should use the lower gears only when necessary. See Automatic Transaxle Operation on page 2-21.
When the system is on, this warning light will come on to let you know if there’s a problem.
See Traction Control System (TCS) Warning Light on page 3-36. When this warning light is on, the system will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.
To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the Traction Control System on. But you can turn the system off if you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow on page 4-30.
To turn the system on or off, press the TRAC OFF button on the console.
When you turn the system off, a chime will sound and the Traction Control System warning light will come on and stay on. If the Traction Control System is limiting wheel spin when you press the button to turn the system off, the warning light will come on and the system will turn off right away. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The Traction Control System warning light should go off.
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Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here is why: Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you will understand this. The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
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Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems — steering and braking — have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control. The same thing can happen if you are steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems — steering and acceleration — can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you will want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can not; there is not room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels. See Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
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Off-Road Recovery You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
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Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision. So here are some tips for passing:
“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
(cid:127) Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it is all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
(cid:127) (cid:127) Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you are following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
(cid:127) When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and do not get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone is not trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.
(cid:127) Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.) Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.
(cid:127) Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you are being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow down when you have any doubt. If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
(cid:127) Since you can not see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.
(cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can not stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can not, try to slow down before you hit them.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
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Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can not avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.
(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires
on page 5-65.
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City Driving
Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-22. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your “blind” spot.
Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
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Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are
all windows clean inside and outside?
(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?
(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
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(cid:127) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better. (cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could
be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your trunk.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow — drive with caution. Keep your traction control system on. It improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock, see Braking on page 4-6. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking system or not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer. (cid:127) Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.
(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can not see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
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CAUTION:
(Continued)
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause anengine compartment fire or other damage.When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See “Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out.” For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-80.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of
CAUTION:
(Continued)
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-10. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Towing
Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-23.
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(cid:127) If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels
Dinghy Towing Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” following for more information. Dolly Towing
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the front wheels on the dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position.
5. Release the parking brake.
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Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight
Example 1
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A. Vehicle Capacity Weight The Tire and Loading Information label shows the seating capacity and the total weight your vehicle can properly carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight. If your vehicle has the Tire and Loading Information label, Example 1, the label is attached to the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. If your vehicle has the Tire-Loading Information label, Example 2, the label is on the inside trunk lid. The Tire and Loading Information label also gives you the size and recommended inflation pressure for the factory-installed, original equipment tires on your vehicle. For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-65 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-72. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section.
Example 2
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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX pounds” on your vehicle placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer on page 4-38, for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and trailering tips.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds. 4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of
cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be five 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs. (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.).
5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from
your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle.
Example 1
Loading Your Vehicle
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 1=
Subtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs (68
kg) × 2 =
Available Occupant and
Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
700 lbs (317 kg)
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Example 2
Example 3
Loading Your Vehicle
Loading Your Vehicle
Item
Description
Total
Item
Description
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 2 =
Subtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs (68
kg) × 5 =
Available Occupant and
Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
750 lbs (340 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 3 =
Subtract Occupant
Weight 200 lbs (91
kg) × 5 =
Available Occupant and
Cargo Weight =
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
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Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight. Also see Towing a Trailer on page 4-38. Certification Label
The Certification label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. If you do have a heavy load, spread it out. Don’t carry more than 167 pounds (75 kg) in your trunk.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.
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If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else — they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:127) Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
(cid:127) Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles
(1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Don’t drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (454 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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If you’re using a weigh-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label, See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-29. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
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(cid:127) Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. Do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need additional wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. If you have overdrive, you may want to drive in THIRD (3), instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (X).
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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-34.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
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✍ NOTES
4-46
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your
Vehicle ......................................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-4
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel
...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .......................5-9
Checking Things Under
the Hood ....................................................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-10
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-18
Supercharger Oil
..........................................5-24
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-26
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-28
Engine Coolant .............................................5-31
Radiator Pressure Cap ..................................5-34
Engine Overheating .......................................5-34
Cooling System ............................................5-37
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-47
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-48
Brakes ........................................................5-50
Battery ........................................................5-53
Jump Starting ...............................................5-54
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-60
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-60
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-60
Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker,
and Parking Lamps ....................................5-60
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Sidemarker Lamps .....................................5-62
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-63
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-63
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-64
Tires ..............................................................5-65
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-72
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-73
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-75
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-76
Buying New Tires .........................................5-76
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-77
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-79
5-1
Section 5
Service and Appearance Care