2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual

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the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be: If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs: Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). 4-37 It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inﬂated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Tire-Loading Information label. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. (cid:129) Will there be any holes in the body of the vehicle after installing a trailer hitch? If there are, then be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-37. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle. 4-38 Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. (cid:129) During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also ﬂash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel ﬂash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. 4-39 Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. When towing under severe conditions such as hot ambient temperatures or steep grades, the vehicle may experience more transmission shifting. A COOLING MODE ON message may also appear in the DIC. This alerts the driver that the shifting mode is in progress and is aiding engine cooling. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 DIC Warnings and Messages for more information. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Pay attention to the engine coolant gage. If the indicator is in the red area, turn off the air conditioning to reduce engine load. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32. Parking on Hills { CAUTION: Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a ﬂat surface. If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill. 2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load. 4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park). 5. Release the brake pedal. 4-40 Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you: start the engine, shift into a gear, and release the parking brake. 2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks. Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See this manual’s Maintenance Schedule or Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission ﬂuid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-32. Towing a Trailer (Manual Transmission) Do not tow a trailer if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission. 4-41 (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) ✍ NOTES 4-42 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Service ............................................................5-3 Accessories and Modiﬁcations ..........................5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4 California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4 Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle .................................................5-5 Fuel ................................................................5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations ....................................5-6 California Fuel ...............................................5-6 Additives .......................................................5-6 Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) ..................................5-7 Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-8 Filling the Tank ..............................................5-9 Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-12 Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-12 Hood Release ..............................................5-13 Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-14 Engine Oil ...................................................5-17 Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-21 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-23 Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-25 Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-26 Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-26 Cooling System ............................................5-26 Engine Coolant .............................................5-27 Pressure Cap ...............................................5-32 Engine Overheating .......................................5-32 Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-34 Brakes ........................................................5-35 Battery ........................................................5-38 Jump Starting ...............................................5-39 Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-44 Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-47 Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-47 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps ..........................................5-47 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) .........5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .........................................5-50 License Plate Lamp ......................................5-51 Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-51 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-52 Tires ..............................................................5-53 Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-54 Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions .....................5-58 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure .................................5-61 Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-62 Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-64 Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-67 5-1 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69 Buying New Tires .........................................5-70 Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-71 Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73 Wheel Replacement ......................................5-73 Tire Chains ..................................................5-74 If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-75 Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-76 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-77 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (All Models Except SS) ...............5-80 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (SS Model) ...............................5-85 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-94 Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-98 Appearance Care ............................................5-99 Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-99 Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-100 Leather ......................................................5-101 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-102 Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-102 Weatherstrips .............................................5-102 Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-103 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-103 Finish Care ................................................5-104 Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-104 Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels and Trim ................................................5-105 Tires .........................................................5-106 Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-106 Finish Damage ...........................................5-106 Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106 Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-106 Vehicle Identiﬁcation .....................................5-107 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ................5-107 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ...................5-107 Electrical System ..........................................5-108 Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-108 Headlamp Wiring ........................................5-108 Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-108 Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-108 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-109 Floor Console Fuse Block ............................5-109 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-111 Capacities and Speciﬁcations ........................5-114 5-2 Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certiﬁed parts, including control module modiﬁcations, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-78. 5-3 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate. 5-4 Doing Your Own Service Work { CAUTION: You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-17. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-77. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-18. Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-107. If the vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. If the vehicle has the 2.0L L4 engine (VIN Code X), use only unleaded gasoline. See Gasoline Octane on page 5-5. Gasoline Octane If the vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. If the vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V) or the 2.0L L4 engine (VIN Code X), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You can also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but the vehicle’s acceleration could be slightly reduced, and you might notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you might notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you could damage the engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service. 5-5 Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6 for additional information. California Fuel If the vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 5-6 Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service. Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) The 8th digit of the Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identiﬁes the vehicle’s engine. The VIN is at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) on page 5-107. If your vehicle has the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V), you can use either unleaded gasoline or ethanol fuel containing up to 85% ethanol (E85). See Fuel on page 5-5. In all other engines, use only the unleaded gasoline described under Gasoline Octane on page 5-5. Only vehicles that have the 2.2L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code V) can use 85% ethanol fuel (E85). We encourage the use of E85 in vehicles that are designed to use it. The ethanol in E85 is a “renewable” fuel, meaning it is made from renewable sources such as corn and other crops. Many service stations will not have an 85% ethanol fuel (E85) pump available. The U. S. Department of Energy has an alternative fuels website (www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/infrastructure/locator.html) that can help you ﬁnd E85 fuel. Those stations that do have E85 should have a label indicating ethanol content. Do not use the fuel if the ethanol content is greater than 85%. 5-7 At a minimum, E85 should meet ASTM Speciﬁcation D 5798. By deﬁnition, this means that fuel labeled E85 will have an ethanol content between 70% and 85%. Filling the fuel tank with fuel mixtures that do not meet ASTM speciﬁcations can affect driveability and could cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on. To ensure quick starts in the wintertime, the E85 fuel must be formulated properly for your climate according to ASTM speciﬁcation D 5798. If you have trouble starting on E85, it could be because the E85 fuel is not properly formulated for your climate. If this happens, switching to gasoline or adding gasoline to the fuel tank can improve starting. For good starting and heater efficiency below 32°F (0°C), the fuel mix in the fuel tank should contain no more than 70% ethanol. It is best not to alternate repeatedly between gasoline and E85. If you do switch fuels, it is recommended that you add as much fuel as possible — do not add less than three gallons (11 L) when refueling. You should drive the vehicle immediately after refueling for at least seven miles (11 km) to allow the vehicle to adapt to the change in ethanol concentration. E85 has less energy per gallon than gasoline, so you will need to reﬁll the fuel tank more often when using E85 than when you are using gasoline. See Filling the Tank on page 5-9. Notice: Some additives are not compatible with E85 fuel and can harm the vehicle’s fuel system. Do not add anything to E85. Damage caused by additives would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 5-8 Filling the Tank { CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. To open the fuel door, push the rearward center edge in and release and it will open. 5-9 To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. { CAUTION: Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger side of the vehicle. If the vehicle has E85 fuel capability, the fuel cap will be yellow and state that E85 or gasoline can be used. See Fuel E85 (85% Ethanol) on page 5-7. 5-10 When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. The CHECK GAS CAP message displays on the Driver Information Center (DIC) if the fuel cap is not properly installed. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50 for more information. To close the fuel door securely, push the door to the closed position. { CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-37. 5-11 Filling a Portable Fuel Container { CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:129) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while pumping fuel. Checking Things Under the Hood { CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 5-12 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following. 1. Pull the interior hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located to the left of the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the vehicle. 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and push the secondary hood release lever to the left. It is located under the front center of the grille. 3. After you have partially lifted the hood, gas struts will automatically take over to lift and hold the hood in the fully open position. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Lower the hood until the lifting force of the struts is reduced, then release the hood to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 5-13 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 2.4L engine (2.2L engine similar), here is what you will see: 5-14 A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. B. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-32. C. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 5-27. D. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23. E. Electric Engine Cooling Fan (Out of View). See Cooling System Cooling System on page 5-26. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. G. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26. I. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111. K. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Out of View). See Jump Starting on page 5-39. 5-15 When you open the hood on the 2.0L L4 engine, this is what you will see: 5-16 A. Pressure Cap. See Pressure Cap on page 5-32. B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-23. C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-34. D. Coolant Recovery Tank. See “Checking Coolant” under Engine Coolant on page 5-27. E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-17. G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 5-35 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-26. H. Underhood Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-111. I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel ﬁll. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level. 5-17 When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is below the MIN (minimum) mark, add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. 2.2L L4 Engine and 2.4L L4 Engine 2.0L L4 Engine See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through. 5-18 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine Look for three things: (cid:129) GM6094M Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. 5-19 For Vehicles with the 2.0L L4 Engine Only Look for three things: Notice: Using oils that do not have the GM4718M Standard designation can cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. (cid:129) SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. (cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (cid:129) GM4718M This vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M, such as Mobil 1® or equivalent. Oils meeting this standard may be identiﬁed as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. This vehicle’s engine was ﬁlled at the factory with a synthetic oil meeting all requirements for this vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M might not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. 5-20 Cold Temperature Operation For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required speciﬁcation, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information. Engine Oil Additives/Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system ﬂushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and ﬁlter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL SOON message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-50. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and ﬁlter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained service people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. 5-21 How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and ﬁlter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the engine oil, the system must be reset: 1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the engine off. 2. Press the information and reset buttons on the Driver Information Center (DIC) at the same time to enter the personalization menu. See DIC Vehicle Personalization on page 3-56. 3. Press the information button to scroll through the available personalization menu modes until the DIC display shows OIL-LIFE RESET. 4. Press and hold the reset button until the DIC display shows ACKNOWLEDGED. This will tell you the system has been reset. 5. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. For vehicles with the 2.2L (VIN code V) or 2.4L (VIN code B) engines, you can also reset the system as follows: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON/RUN with the engine off. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. 3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF, then start the engine. If the CHANGE OIL SOON message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the reset procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. 5-22 Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the ﬁrst oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. The 2.0L engine inspect at each oil change. Replace ﬁlter if appears dusty or dirty. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.2L and 2.4L Engines) See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the ﬁlter. Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. 5-23 How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (2.0L Engine Only) To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow sensor, PCV hose, and both ducts. 2. Pull the entire system from the top of the engine. 3. Turn the system over and place it on a soft, non-abrasive surface. 4. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the housing. 5. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 6. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. Never use compressed air to clean the ﬁlter. Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. 5-24 To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws that hold the housing and cover together and lift off the cover. 2. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 3. Reverse the steps to reinstall the system. Be sure to reinstall the housing tightly. { CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to a dealer/retailer and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the ﬂuid and ﬁlter at the intervals listed in the Maintenance Schedule. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. Be sure to use the transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission ﬂuid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission ﬂuid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. 5-25 Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to a dealer/retailer for service. Have it repaired as soon as possible. You may also have the ﬂuid level checked by your dealer/ retailer when the oil is changed. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for the proper ﬂuid to use. Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. This system does not have its own reservoir. It receives ﬂuid from the brake master cylinder reservoir. See Brakes on page 5-35 for more information. 5-26 Cooling System The Cooling System allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature. A. Pressure Cap B. Coolant Recovery Tank C. Electric Engine Cooling Fan { CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. 5-27 What to Use { CAUTION: Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C), outside temperature. (cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C), engine temperature. If an improper coolant mixture is used, (cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14 for more information. 5-28 Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it. The tank is located in the engine compartment toward the front of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the COLD FILL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD FILL (A) line or a little higher. The COLD FILL line is near the bottom of the tank and sticks out from the rear of the tank. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD FILL line. If it is not, you may have a leak in the cooling system. 5-29 How to Add Coolant to the Cooling System { CAUTION: { CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 5-30 If no coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank, add coolant at the pressure cap as follows: 1. Remove the pressure cap when the cooling system, including the pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left to be vented. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap and remove it. 3. Add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture to the coolant ﬁll port, up to the base of the port. See Engine Coolant on page 5-27 Engine Coolant for more information about the proper coolant mixture. 4. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 5. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the COLD FILL (A) line. 6. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the pressure cap off. 7. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. 5-31 8. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller port may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁll port until the level reaches the base of the ﬁll port. 9. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure, if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁll port, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 10. When the engine has cooled, check the coolant in the coolant recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the COLD FILL line when the engine is cold. If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Pressure Cap Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on location. Engine Overheating The vehicle has several indicators to warn of engine overheating. You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature warning light and a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-36 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-36 for more information. You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, do not continue to run the engine and have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If the engine catches ﬁre because of being 5-32 If Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment { CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If No Steam Is Coming From The Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary. 3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle. 5-33 (cid:129) (cid:129) If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill the washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for ﬂuid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint. 5-34 (cid:129) Brakes Brake Fluid The brake master cylinder and, on manual transmission vehicles, the clutch hydraulic system use the same reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for the location of the reservoir. The reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT 3 brake ﬂuid. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down: The brake ﬂuid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the ﬂuid level goes back up. (cid:129) A ﬂuid leak in the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system can also cause a low ﬂuid level. Have the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes and/or clutch will not work well. Do not top off the brake/clutch ﬂuid. Adding ﬂuid does not correct a leak. If ﬂuid is added when the brake linings are worn, there will be too much ﬂuid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake/clutch hydraulic system. { CAUTION: If too much brake ﬂuid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. When the brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, the brake warning light comes on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-33. 5-35 (cid:129) What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake ﬂuid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-14. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir. { CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in the brake or clutch hydraulic system, the brakes or clutch might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake or clutch hydraulic system can damage brake or clutch hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If brake ﬂuid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-103. 5-36 (cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and could have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal ﬁrmly. { CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque speciﬁcations in Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-114. If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if a rear brake rubbing noise is heard, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When the front brake pads are replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every time the brakes are applied, with or without the vehicle moving, the brakes adjust for wear. 5-37 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. The battery is located in the cargo area. Access to the battery is not necessary to jump start the vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 5-39. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage { CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time. 5-38 Jump Starting If the vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start the vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. { CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start the vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) before setting the parking brake. 5-39 You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located in the rear cargo area. You will not need to access your battery for jump starting. The vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. Locate the remote positive terminal which is located under a red tethered cap on the engine compartment fuse block. Remove the cap to access the terminal. Do not remove fuse block cover to jump start the vehicle. If you leave the radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. 5-40 Locate the remote negative (−) ground terminal, marked GND (−), which is located at the front of the engine compartment on the driver side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-14 for more information on the location of the positive (+) and negative (−) terminals on the vehicle. { CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. { CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5-41 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground terminal marked GND (−). 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. { CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-42 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cover to its original position. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND) B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 5-43 Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in a crash, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer/retailer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described. The vehicle should: (cid:129) Be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall. (cid:129) Have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall. (cid:129) Be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. (cid:129) Not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. (cid:129) Be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. (cid:129) Normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver seat. (cid:129) Have all tires properly inﬂated. (cid:129) Have the spare tire is in its original location in the vehicle. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. 5-44 To adjust the vertical aim: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-13 for more information. 2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam headlamp. 3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance. 4. At the wall measure from the ground upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it. 5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) on the wall the width of the vehicle at the height of the mark in Step 4. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being adjusted. Do not place directly on the headlamp. This allows only the beam of light from the headlamp being adjusted to be seen on the ﬂat surface. 5-45 The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim. 10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite headlamp. Driver Side Shown 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket. 8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. Turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to raise or lower the angle of the beam. 5-46 Headlamps, Front Turn Signal, and Parking Lamps Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-51. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer/retailer. Halogen Bulbs { CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. A. Headlamp B. Turn Signal/Parking Lamp 5-47 To replace the headlamp, turn signal, or parking lamp bulb: 1. Turn the wheel to access the wheel well. 3. Reach in behind the wheel well liner and locate the bulb to be changed. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamp assembly. 5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 6. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until it clicks. 7. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 8. Reinstall the wheel well liner using fasteners. 2. Remove the fasteners located on the wheel liner. To access the headlamp and the turn signal/parking lamp bulbs. 5-48 Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) To replace the center high-mounted stoplamp bulb: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-12. 4. Pull the old bulb straight out of the bulb socket. 5. Push the new bulb straight into the bulb socket until it clicks. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 7. Reinstall the center trim. 2. Remove the center trim located near the top of the liftgate. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamps assembly. 5-49 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Open the liftgate. See Liftgate on page 2-12. A. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal Lamp B. Back-up Lamp 5-50 2. Remove the cover in the rear cargo area of the vehicle to access the bulbs. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it straight out of the lamp assembly. 4. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 5. Install a new bulb. When installing the bulb socket into the assembly, line up the tabs with the slots in the bulb assembly. 6. Push the bulb socket straight into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 7. Reinstall the cover. License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs: 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps to the fascia. 4. Push the new bulb into the bulb socket and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. 5. Push and turn the license plate back through the fascia opening. 6. Reinstall the two screws holding the license plate lamps to the fascia. Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-up Lamp and CHMSL Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp (Amber) Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp (Clear) Headlamp High/Low-Beam 921 5702KA B2N H13 Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn Signal 3057KX For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer/retailer. 5-51 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward through the fascia opening. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information on wiper blade inspection. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For the proper type and length, see Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-16. Here’s how to remove the wiper blade: 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 5-52 2. While holding the wiper arm, lift the clip up from the blade connecting point, and pull the blade assembly down toward the windshield to remove it from the wiper arm. 3. Install the new wiper blade on the wiper arm and press down on the clip to snap it into place. Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement 1. Remove the protective cap from the wiper arm. If the protective cap is not removed before lifting the wiper arm, the wiper arm could be damaged. 2. Pull the wiper arm away from the backglass and into the service position. 3. Rotate the wiper blade, and pull down on it to remove it from the wiper arm. 4. Install the new wiper blade, then set the wiper arm back into its original position and replace the protective cap. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your vehicle Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer. { CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:129) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much ﬂexing. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-25. (cid:129) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. (cid:129) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:129) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. 5-53 If the vehicle has low-proﬁle tires, Low-Proﬁle Performance Tire If your vehicle has P225/45R18 size tires, they are classiﬁed as low-proﬁle performance tires. These tires are designed for very responsive driving on wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more road noise with low-proﬁle performance tires and that they tend to wear faster. Notice: they are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard proﬁle tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects, or when sliding into a curb. The vehicle warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inﬂation pressure and, when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes, and other road hazards. Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. 5-54 Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-72. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 5-55 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-61. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-98 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-75. 5-56 (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed

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2009 Chevrolet HHR Owners Manual