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6. Use an adequate clamping device designed for


towing to ensure that the front wheels are locked into the straight position.


{ CAUTION:


Shifting a full-time four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the automatic transmission is in P (Park) or the manual transmission is in any gear. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before the transfer case is shifted to N (Neutral).


7. Shift the transfer case to N (Neutral). See “Shifting


into N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26.


8. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.


If the vehicle being towed will not be started or driven for six weeks or more, remove the battery cable from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to prevent the battery from draining.


After towing, see “Shifting Out of N (Neutral)” under Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26.


Towing a Trailer


{ CAUTION:


The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.


Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer.


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Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.


(cid:129) Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later


in this section.


(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles


(800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:129) Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If the vehicle has a manual transmission it is better not to use the highest gear.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The weight on the vehicle’s tires


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Use the following chart to determine how much the vehicle can weigh, based upon the vehicle model and options.


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(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) Vehicle 2WD Regular Cab


2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


2WD Extended Cab


2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission, ZQ8 Sport Suspension


2WD Crew Cab


2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission, ZQ8 Sport Suspension


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
3.73
3.73


3.73
3.73
3.73
3.42
3.73


3.42


3.73
3.73
3.73
3.42
3.73


3.42


3,400 lbs (1 542 kg) 2,400 lbs (1 089 kg) 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)


7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)


3,200 lbs (1 452 kg) 2,200 lbs (998 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)


7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)


10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)


4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)


8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)


3,000 lbs (1 361 kg) 2,100 lbs (953 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)


7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,500 lbs (4 309 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)


10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)


3,800 lbs (1 724 kg)


8,500 lbs (3 856 kg)


4-49


Vehicle 4WD Regular Cab


2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


4WD Extended Cab


2.9L L4 Automatic Transmission 2.9L L4 Manual Transmission 3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission


4WD Crew Cab


3.7L L5 Automatic Transmission


5.3L V8 Automatic Transmission


Axle Ratio


Maximum Trailer Weight


GCWR*


3.73
3.73
3.73


3.73
3.73
3.73
3.42
4.10


3.73
3.42
4.10


3,100 lbs (1 406 kg) 2,100 lbs (953 kg) 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg)


7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,000 lbs (4 082 kg)


2,900 lbs (1 315 kg) 1,900 lbs (861 kg) 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)


7,000 lbs (3 175 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg) 9,800 lbs (4 445 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)


10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)


5,500 lbs (2 495 kg)


9,800 lbs (4 445 kg)


6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)


10,400 lbs (4 717 kg)


*The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment and conversions. The GCWR for the vehicle should not be exceeded.


Ask your dealer/retailer for our trailering information or advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices. See Customer Assistance Offices on page 7-6 for more information.


4-50


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of 500 lbs (226 kg) with a weight carrying hitch.


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Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for the vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle. After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight.


Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:


Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much. The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).


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If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:


Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700 additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits. The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR.


The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer. Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification/Tire label located at the bottom of the center pillar on the driver’s side of the vehicle, or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-33. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue. If using a weight distributing hitch, make sure not to go over the rear axle limit before applying the weight distribution spring bars.


4-53


Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight Carrying Hitches A step bumper hitch can be used for trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) total weight, and 200 lbs (90 kg) tongue weight. Notice: If a step-bumper hitch is used, the bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.


Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. For trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) safety chains may be attached to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Since the vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, the trailer cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.


4-54


Driving with a Trailer


{ CAUTION:


When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer:


(cid:129) Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip.


(cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or


rear-most window open.


(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or under the


instrument panel.


(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.


Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.


For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-35.


4-55


Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Vehicles with automatic transmissions can tow in D (Drive), but you may want to shift to a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If the vehicle has a manual transmission it is better not to use the highest gear. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in N (Neutral) with the parking brake applied, for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32.


Parking on Hills


{ CAUTION:


Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.


If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park)


yet for vehicles with an automatic transmission, or into gear for vehicles with a manual transmission. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.


2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the


brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park) for vehicles with an automatic transmission or into gear for vehicles with a manual transmission.


4-57


5. If the vehicle has four-wheel-drive, be sure


the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in N (Neutral). See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26
for more information.


6. Release the brake pedal. Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:


(cid:129) Start the engine (cid:129) Shift into a gear (cid:129) Release the parking brake


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 or the Index for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.


4-58


Trailer Wiring Harness The vehicle may be equipped with a four-pin trailer towing harness. This harness has a four-pin trailer connector that is attached to a bracket on the hitch platform. The four-wire harness contains the following trailer circuits: (cid:129) Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal (cid:129) Brown: Taillamps/Park lamps (cid:129) White: Ground Trailer Recommendations Subtract the hitch loads from the Cargo Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of the load the vehicle can carry. It does not include the weight of the people inside, but you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each passenger. The total cargo load must not be more than the vehicles CWR. Weigh the vehicle with the trailer attached, so the GVWR or GAWR are not exceeded. If using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the spring bars in place. The best performance is obtained by correctly spreading out the weight of the load and choosing the correct hitch and trailer brakes. For more information see Towing a Trailer on page 4-47.


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-4
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


the Vehicle .................................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-15
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-20
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-21
Manual Transmission Fluid .............................5-24
Hydraulic Clutch ...........................................5-25
Cooling System ............................................5-26


Engine Coolant .............................................5-28
Engine Overheating .......................................5-32
Engine Fan Noise .........................................5-33
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-35
Brakes ........................................................5-36
Battery ........................................................5-39
Jump Starting ...............................................5-40
Rear Axle .......................................................5-44
Four-Wheel Drive ............................................5-44
Front Axle ......................................................5-45
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-46
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-46
Headlamps ..................................................5-47
Front Turn Signal, Parking and Daytime


Running Lamps (DRL) ................................5-48


Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp (CHMSL) ....................................5-48


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and


Back-up Lamps .........................................5-49
License Plate Lamp ......................................5-50
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-50
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-51


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Tires ..............................................................5-53
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-54
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-57
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-60
High-Speed Operation ...................................5-61
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-62
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-64
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-67
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-69
Buying New Tires .........................................5-70
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-71
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-72
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-73
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-73
Tire Chains ..................................................5-75
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-76
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-76
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools ................5-78
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the


Spare Tire ................................................5-82
Secondary Latch System ...............................5-89
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ............5-92
Spare Tire ...................................................5-97
Appearance Care ............................................5-99
Interior Cleaning ...........................................5-99
Fabric/Carpet ..............................................5-100
Leather ......................................................5-101


5-2


Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces .......................................5-101
Care of Safety Belts ....................................5-102
Weatherstrips .............................................5-102
Washing Your Vehicle ..................................5-102
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ....................5-103
Finish Care ................................................5-103
Windshield and Wiper Blades .......................5-104
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated


Wheels and Trim .....................................5-104
Tires .........................................................5-105
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-105
Finish Damage ...........................................5-105
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-106
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-106
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-106
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-106
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-107
Electrical System ..........................................5-107
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-107
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-107
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-107
Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................5-108
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-114


Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle. Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-76.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{ CAUTION:


You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:129) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/perchlorate.


5-4


If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-16. This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-75. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle.


Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.


5-5


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.


California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


5-6


Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: This vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in the fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under the vehicle warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions can contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese


tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. We recommend against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system could be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp might turn on. If this occurs, return to your dealer/retailer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{ CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off the engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling the vehicle. Do not use cellular phones. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling the vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Do not re-enter the vehicle while pumping fuel. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


5-8


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver side of the vehicle. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


{ CAUTION:


Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. This spray can happen if the tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-102. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. If the fuel


cap is not properly installed, the FUEL CAP message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the check engine light will be lit on the instrument panel cluster. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38
and Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30 for more information.


{ CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer/retailer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause the malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage the fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30.


5-9


Checking Things Under the Hood


{ CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{ CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in the vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the fuel vapor. You can be badly burned and the vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:129) Dispense fuel only into approved containers. (cid:129) Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground.


(cid:129) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:129) Do not smoke while pumping fuel. (cid:129) Do not use a cellular phone while


pumping fuel.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the handle


with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.


3. Lift the hood. 4. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the


hood prop into the slot in the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) above the vehicle and release it to latch fully. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the procedure if necessary.


2. Release the secondary latch on the hood.


It is located below the front center of the hood.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood on the 3.7L engine (2.9L engine similar), you will see the following:


5-12


A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer


Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine


Coolant on page 5-28.


C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine


compartment). See Power Steering Fluid on page 5-34.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


G. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System on


page 5-26.


H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (GND). See Jump


Starting on page 5-40.


I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


J. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See Jump Starting on


page 5-40.


K. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-36.


L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-108. M. Battery on page 5-39. N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).


See Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-25.


5-13


When you open the hood on the 5.3L engine, you will see the following:


5-14


A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20. B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped). See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.


C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.


D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See Engine Coolant


on page 5-28.


E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).


See “Checking the Fluid Level” under Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.


F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-15.


H. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under


Brakes on page 5-36. I. Battery on page 5-39. J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-34.


K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-108. L. Radiator Pressure Cap. See Cooling System


on page 5-26.


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil level at each fuel fill. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If this is not done, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


5-15


When to Add Engine Oil


L4 and L5 Engines


Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when through.


V8 Engine


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area (L), add at least one quart/liter of the recommended oil. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114.


5-16


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for three things:


(cid:129) GM6094M


Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:129) SAE 5W-30


SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


(cid:129) American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol


Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Cold Temperature Operation If in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 engine oil. Both provide easier cold starting for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Always use an oil that meets the required specification, GM6094M. See “What Kind of Engine Oil to Use” for more information.


5-17


Engine Oil Additives / Engine Oil Flushes Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed.


When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE OIL message comes on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38. Change the oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer/retailer has trained people who will perform this work using genuine parts and reset the system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, the oil must be changed at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since the last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-18


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.


How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change the engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Whenever the oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where the oil is changed prior to a CHANGE OIL message being turned on, reset the system. To reset the Engine Oil Life system: 1. With the engine off, turn the ignition to ON/RUN. 2. Press and release the stem in the lower center


of the instrument cluster until the OIL LIFE message is displayed.


3. Once the alternating OIL LIFE and RESET messages appear, press and hold the stem until several beeps sound. This confirms that the oil life system has been reset.


4. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-38.


5-19


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


The engine air cleaner/filter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


5-20


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (80 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Unfasten the clips that hold the cover on and


remove the cover.


2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter. 3. Inspect or replace the air filter. See Maintenance


Replacement Parts on page 6-14 to determine which filter to use.


4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter cover. Fasten the clips to hold the cover in place.


{ CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into the engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving. Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid A good time to check the automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealer/retailer service department. If adding it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or there could be a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: (cid:129) When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). (cid:129) At high speed for quite a while.


In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.


(cid:129) While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).


5-21


(cid:129) Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle in 3 (Third) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), the engine might have to idle longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot gives a more accurate reading of the fluid level. Checking the Fluid Level To prepare the vehicle: 1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in P (Park).


3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in P (Park).


4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more. Then, without shutting off the engine: 1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick


and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


The automatic transmission dipstick handle with this symbol on it is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and


pull it back out again.


5-22


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the dipstick pointed down to get an accurate reading.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


How to Add Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. A cold check is used only as a reference. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage the vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. (cid:129) After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.


(cid:129) When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.


5-23


Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check A good time to check the manual transmission fluid is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in the manual transmission does not require changing. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer/retailer service department. If doing it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or there could be a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid. Check the fluid level only when the engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough to touch the transmission case.


5-24


After this is done:


1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of


the filler plug hole.


3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure


it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


How to Add Fluid Here is how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough


fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully


seated.


Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch linkage in the vehicle is self-adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.


The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless a leak in the system is suspected. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


5-25


When to Check and What to Use


Cooling System The cooling system allows the engine to maintain the correct working temperature.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. How to Check and Add Fluid The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it is in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.


2.9L Engine shown (3.7L Engine similar)


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Engine Cooling Fan C. Radiator Pressure Cap


5-26


{ CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® can cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant could require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in the vehicle.


5-27


5.3L Engine


A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Cooling Fan


{ CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first. The following explains the cooling system and how to check and add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-32. What to Use


{ CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to the cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. The vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, the engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. The engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


5-28


Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If using this mixture, nothing else needs to be added. This mixture: (cid:129) Gives freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C),


outside temperature.


(cid:129) Gives boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C),


engine temperature.


(cid:129) Protects against rust and corrosion. (cid:129) Will not damage aluminum parts. (cid:129) Helps keep the proper engine temperature. Notice: If an improper coolant mixture is used, the engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. Notice: in the vehicle’s cooling system, the vehicle could be damaged. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information.


If extra inhibitors and/or additives are used


Checking Coolant The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level.


The coolant recovery tank cap has this symbol on it.


It is located toward the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Check to see if coolant is visible in the coolant recovery tank. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant recovery tank, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD, or a little higher. When the engine is warm, the level could be above the FULL COLD level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the FULL COLD mark. If it is not, there could be a leak in the cooling system. How to Add Coolant to the Recovery Tank


{ CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause the engine to overheat and be severely damaged. When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the FULL COLD mark, start the vehicle. If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.


5-29


How to Add Coolant to the Radiator


{ CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can cause injury. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{ CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-30


If coolant is needed, add the proper mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before this is done.


1. Remove the radiator pressure cap when the


cooling system, including the upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Keep turning the cap to remove it.


3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information about the proper coolant mixture.


4. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the


FULL COLD mark.


5. Reinstall the cap on the coolant recovery tank,


but leave the radiator pressure cap off.


6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the


upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.


7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator


filler neck might be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.


8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,


5-31


If Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment


{ CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.


Engine Overheating The vehicle has a coolant temperature gage displayed on the instrument panel to warn if the engine is overheating. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-29. If the engine is too hot, the air conditioning might stop working. This is normal and helps cool the engine. You may decide not to lift the hood when the warning appears, but instead get service help right away. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-7. If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it does not, the vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. Notice: Engine damage from running the engine without coolant is not covered by the warranty. Notice: driven with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty.


If the engine catches fire because of being


5-32


If No Steam is Coming from the Engine Compartment If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when the vehicle: (cid:129) Climbs a long hill on a hot day. (cid:129) Stops after high-speed driving. Idles for long periods in traffic. Tows a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under Towing a Trailer on page 4-47.


If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of steam: 1. Turn the air conditioning off. 2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and


to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as necessary.


3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in N (Neutral)


while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to P (Park) or N (Neutral) and let the engine idle.


If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays, the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive


the vehicle slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come back on, continue to drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the vehicle right away. If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while parked. If the warning is still displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down.


Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.


5-33


(cid:129) (cid:129) Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment, behind the radiator. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


How to Check Power Steering Fluid 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment


cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid


level on the dipstick.


The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Notice: Use of the incorrect fluid may damage the vehicle and the damages may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty. Always use the correct fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When windshield washer fluid is needed, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If operating the vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:129) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:129) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill the washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for fluid expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:129) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage the vehicle’s windshield washer system and paint.


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(cid:129) Do not top off the brake fluid. Adding fluid does not correct a leak. If fluid is added when the linings are worn, there will be too much fluid when new brake linings are installed. Add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{ CAUTION:


If too much brake fluid is added, it can spill on the engine and burn, if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and the vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check the brake fluid. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


Brakes Brake Fluid


The brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT 3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down:


The brake fluid level goes down because of normal brake lining wear. When new linings are installed, the fluid level goes back up.


(cid:129) A fluid leak in the brake hydraulic system can also


cause a low fluid level. Have the brake hydraulic system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later the brakes will not work well.


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(cid:129) Checking Brake Fluid Check brake fluid by looking at the brake fluid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12.


{ CAUTION:


The fluid level should be above the PP mark. If it is not, have the brake hydraulic system checked to see if there is a leak.


After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the PP mark but not over the MAX mark. What to Add Use only new DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This helps keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


With the wrong kind of fluid in the brake hydraulic system, the brakes might not work well. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:129) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake


hydraulic system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in the brake hydraulic system can damage brake hydraulic system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If brake fluid is spilled on the vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-102.


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(cid:129) Brake Wear This vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound can come and go or be heard all the time the vehicle is moving, except when applying the brake pedal firmly.


{ CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon the brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When the brake wear warning sound is heard, have the vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates can cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with the brakes.


Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to torque specifications in Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114. Rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer/retailer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign that brake service might be required. Brake Adjustment Every brake stop, the brakes adjust for wear.


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Vehicle Storage


{ CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-40 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Infrequent Usage: If the vehicle is driven infrequently, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This helps keep the battery from running down. Extended Storage: For extended storage of the vehicle, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This helps maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. The vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality brake parts. When parts of the braking system are replaced — for example, when the brake linings wear down and new ones are installed — be sure to get new approved replacement parts. If this is not done, the brakes might not work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for the vehicle, the balance between the front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance expected can change in many other ways if the wrong replacement brake parts are installed.


Battery This vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


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Jump Starting If the vehicle battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{ CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:129) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:129) They contain gas that can explode or ignite. (cid:129) They contain enough electricity to burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in Neutral before setting the parking brake. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in Neutral.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to the vehicle that would not be covered by the warranty. Trying to start the vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage the vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


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If you leave the radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by the warranty. Always turn off the radio and other accessories when jump starting the vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and


negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote positive (+) and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the terminal locations.


{ CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the batteries have enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery (or batteries) installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


{ CAUTION:


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at


least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal for this purpose.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.


If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)


terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


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If the jumper cables are connected or


Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


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Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


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The proper level is from 0 to 3/8 inch (0 mm to 10 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. What to Use See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12
to determine which kind of lubricant to use. Four-Wheel Drive Lubricant checks in this section apply to this vehicle. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Additional Required Services on page 6-6. How to Check Lubricant To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check your front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


A. Drain Plug B. Filler Plug If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Remove the plug and add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a

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