1994 Chevrolet Blazer Owners Manual

things:

0 How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control? 0 What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery? Hard-packed dirt?

Gravel?

0 Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts? Logs? Boulders? 0 What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a

river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

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Q: Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill? A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose

control and have a serious accident. When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the h11. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across. You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down. Never go downhill with the transmission in “N” (Neutral) , or with the clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift . This is called “free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill? A: It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going

downhill, here’s what to do. Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes. Apply the parking brake. Shift to “P’ (Park) (or to Neutral with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine. Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down. If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

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Driving Across an Incline Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover. Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over. Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more. For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

Q: What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit I do? some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should At If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This

should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and “walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

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Stalling on an lncline If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path. If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

Driving In Mud, Sand, Snow, Or lce When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances. It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck. When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

Driving In Water Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution. Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts. If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

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After Off-Road Driving Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard. After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage. Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information. Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Don’t drink and drive. Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

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Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it. Driving in the Rain

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even

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less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.

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Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your low-beam headlights - not just your parking lights - to help make you more visible to others. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals. Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip.

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0 Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll

save time and energy. (See the next section, “Freeway Driving.”)

0 Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

Freeway Driving

-.

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot.

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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside? Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape? Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

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High way Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off-road.)

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Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

0 Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this:

let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

0 Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

0 Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or

mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

0 As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in

your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

0 You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special

problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. Be sure your engine coolant mix is correct. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle. Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle. Driving on Snow or /ce Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index.

0 Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. Recreational Vehicle To wing (Four-wheel Drive Only) If your vehicle has 4-wheel drive, you may tow it behind another vehicle providing it does not have the optional electronic shift transfer case.

Recreational vehicle towing is not recommended for vehicles with the optional electronic shift transfer case because the electronic shift has no neutral position.

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Before towing, you should: 1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Place the automatic transmission in "P" (Park) or the manual

transmission in the lowest gear (1st gear).

3. Firmly attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle. Refer to the

hitch manufacturer's instructions.

4. Place the transfer case shift lever in "N" (Neutral).

NOTICE: Removal of either propeller shaft is unnecessary.

1. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly

attached to the tow vehicle.

2. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch and turn it one notch forward of the LOCK position. This places the key into the OFF position, which unlocks the steering column while preventing battery drain. Unlocking the steering column will allow for proper movement of the front wheeldtires during towing.

NOTICE: You should exercise extra care whenever towing another vehicle.

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Towing a Trailer

NOTICE: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section, and see your GM dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Every vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If it was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

0 There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

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Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet. In Canada, write to General Motors of Canada Limited, Customer Assistance Center, 1908 Colonel Sam Drive, Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7. Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The gross vehicle weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label on the driver’s door lock pillar or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle.

Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you

install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

If your vehicle has a deadweight hitch and a endgate-mounted spare tire, and your trailer has a winch or tongue jack, you could have interference between them.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

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Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Your trailer brakes system can tap into vehicle’s hydraulic brake system except: Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than 0.02 cubic inch ( 0 . 3 ~ ~ ) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes. Will the trailer parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle. If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.

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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Disfance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

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Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 k d h ) to reduce the possibility of engine and transmission overheating. If you have an automatic transmission, you should use “D” when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in “D” when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission. Or, if you have a manual transmission with fifth gear, it’s better not to use fifth gear, just drive in fourth gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:

1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “P” (Park) yet, or into

gear for a manual transmission.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the

chocks absorb the load.

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4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then

shift into “P” (Park), or “R” (Reverse) for a manual transmission.

5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case

shift lever, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear-not (Neutral).

in “N”

6. Release the parking brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

Start your engine;

0 Shift into a gear; and 0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

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Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

Trailer Light Wiring See “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index. Power Winches If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

! NOTICE:

When operating a power winch on your vehicle always leave the transmission in the neutral position. Do not leave an automatic transmission in P (Park) or a manual transmission in gear or the transmission may be damaged.

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.

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Seciion

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems Hazard Warning Flasher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Other Warning Devices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jump Starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Towing Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine Overheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine Fan Noise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . If a Tire Goes Flat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Changing a Flat Tire ....................

If You’re Stuck: In Sand. Mud. Ice or Snow . . . .

the road . that can occur on . . . . 5-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-3 . . . . 5-7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-32

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar. When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.

5 - 2

Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle. Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

NOTICE: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it could damage your vehicle, even if you have a manual transmission. And if you have an automatic transmission, it won’t start that way.

To Jump Start Your Vehicle: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative

ground system.

NOTICE: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

5-3

2.

3.

Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start you1 vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transmission in “P’ (Park) or a manual transmission in “N” (Neutral). If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer case is not in “N” (Neutral). Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

NOTICE: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

~~~

~~

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and

negative (-) terminals on each battery.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If

they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (-) will go to

5-4

negative (-) or a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the

vehicle with the dead battery.

Dead Battery

(+)

Good Battery (+)

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+)

terminal of the good battery.

8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative

(-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable duesn ’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

5-5

Good Battery (-)

Heavy Metal Engine Part

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a

while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it won't start after a few

tries, it probably needs service.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take

care that they don't touch each other or any other metal.

Remove Cables In This Order:

1. Heavy Metal Engine Part

2. Good Battery (-) 3. Good Battery (+) 4. Dead Battery (+)

5-6

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. If your vehicle has been changed since it was factory-new by adding things like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things could be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

0 That your vehicle has rear-wheel drive, or that it has the four-wheel

drive option. The make, model, and year of your vehicle.

0 Whether you can move the shift lever for the transmission and shift the

transfer case, if you have one.

0 If there was an accident, what was damaged.

5-7

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key off. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission (either automatic or manual) should be in “ N ’ (Neutral) and the transfer case (either manual shift or electronic shift), if you have one, should be in 2 WHEEL (two-wheel drive). The parking brake should be released.

5-8

Towing From the Front

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.

5-9

Towing From the Rear

NOTICE: Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. If your vehicle has the four-wheel drive option, a dolly MUST be used under the front wheels when towing from the rear.

Don’t have your vehicle towed on the rear wheels, unless you have to. If the vehicle must be towed on the rear wheels, don’t go more than 35 mph (56 km/h) or farther than 50 miles (80 km) or your transmission will be damaged. If these limits must be exceeded, then the rear drive wheels have to be supported on a dolly.

5-10

Engine Overheating You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle's instrument panel. lf Steam /s Coming From Your Engine

NOTICE: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-11

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. If you have an air conditioner, turn it off. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the

window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to “N” (Neutral). If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND GET EVERYONE OUT OF THE VEHICLE until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see: A. Coolant recovery

tank

B. Radiator pressure

cap

C. Engine fan

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

5-12

B'

The coolant level should be at or above the ADD mark. If it isn't, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

NOTICE: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn't covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn't, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine. How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven't found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn't at or above the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and a proper antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See "Engine Coolant" in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mix.)

5-13

NOTICE: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system,

including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly to the left until it first stops. (Don't press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-15

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

3. Fill the radiator with the proper mix, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the

coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark.

I -

5-16

5. Put the cap back

on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off'.

6. Start the engine

and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.

7. By this time the coolant level inside the filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mix through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on pressure cap line up like this.

5-17

Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages. If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next section shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-18

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

L Blocked Tire

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-19

Your jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks are stored in your vehicle's rear area, along the left wall.

To remove your jack cover on two-door models, turn the plastic wing nut to the left until you can pull it out. Remove the jack cover.

To remove your jack t l A T 7 - V n m four-door b U V C 1 U11 . models, p lull up on the latch and remove the jack cover. Pull the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench off.

5-20

Jacking Tool Storage (Two-Door Models)

1. Jack 2. Nut 3. Wheel Blocks 4. Cover 5. Rubber Band 6. Wheel Wrench

Jacking Tool Storage (Four-Door Models)

1. Wheel Blocks 2. Eye Bolt 3. Rubberband 4. Cover (Rear-Mounted only) 5. Cover

6. Bolt 7. Wheel Wrench 8. Retainer 9. Jack

5-21

Side-Mounted Spare Tire (Two-Door Models except P235/75R15 Tire)

1. Hook 2. Valve Stem

(Pointed Outboard)

3. Nut 4. Retainer

(2-wheel drive)

5. Retainer

(4-wheel drive)

6. Spare Tire

Rear-Mounted Spare Tire (Two-Door Models)

1. Valve Stem

(Pointed Rearward)

2. Wheel Carrier 3. Spare Tire 4. Wheel Nut

Floor-Mounted Spare Tire (P235/75R15 Tire Two-Door Models)

Steel Wheel: 1 . Nut 2. Retainer 3. Valve Stem (Pointed Up)

4. Hook 5. Spare Tire

5-22

Aluminum Wheel:

I . Nut 2. Retainer 3. Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

4. Hook 5. Spare Tire

1. Valve Stem

(Pointed Rearward)

2. Wheel Carrier 3. Spare Tire :1 Nut 4. Whee

1 . Hook 2. Spare Tire 3. Nut 4. Retainer

(2-Wheel Drive)

5. Retainer

(4-Wheel Drive)

6. Valve Stem

(Pointed Outboard)

7. Wheel Carrier

Rear-Mounted Spare Tire (Four-Door Models)

Inside-Mounted Spare Tire (Four-Door Models)

5-23

Spare Tire

Your spare tire is in your vehicle's rear area, either mounted to the left wall, the floor, or the endgate. If you have a left-wall or floor-mounted spare tire, the tire must be removed in order to have access to the jack storage. TO Remove the Side-Mounted or Floor-Mounted Spare Tire

Reach into your tire's cover and unscrew the wingnut at the center of the wheel. Remove it and the retainer. Unhook the tire from the mounting bracket and remove the cover.

To Remove the Endgate-Mounted Spare Tire

5-24

Changing the Tire

Use the socket end of your wheel wrench to remove the wheel nuts that secure the tire to the carrier. Then, lift the tire off its mounting bracket.

Start with the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks.

Rotate the jackhandle to the right. That will raise the jack lifthead a little.

5-25

Before you start, block the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. Put your spare tire near the flat tire.

Hub Caps And Wheel Nut Caps You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.

- -

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps.

Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps before you take off the hub cap. If you have just an aluminum or plastic molded hub cap, pry it off with the chisel end of your wheel wrench.

5-26

k

...

Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts. Don’t remove them yet. Position the jack under the vehicle.

ce,

A B-

A. Front Frame Hole B. Rear Frame Hole Your vehicle has a hole in the frame near each front wheel, and a hole in the spring hanger near each rear wheel for the jack. Fit the jack into the hole nearest the flat tire.

5-27

NOTICE: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned will damage the vehicle or may allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising your vehicle.

h.

Raise the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to the right. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

Remove all the wheel nuts.

5-28

Take off the flat tire.

Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

5-29

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might cum@ loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

Put on the spare tire.

~~

Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel.

Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

Lower the vehicle by rotating the wheel wrench to the left. Lower the jack completely.

si:..

5-30

Tightening Wheel Nut

Tightening Sequence

Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Remove the wheel blocks.

Storing The Jack and Spare Tire Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location on the left wall of your vehicle’s rear area. Secure the items and replace the jack cover. Put the flat tire in the rear area of your vehicle where the spare tire was stored.

5-31

If you have a floor-mounted spare tire and it has an aluminum wheel, place the hook in the floor ring before placing it through the wheel. If you have a endgate-mounted spare tire carrier, tighten the nuts to 22-32 ft. lb. (30-40 Nem) torque.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

I NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

as

5-32

Rocking your vehicle to get it out: First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between “R” (Reverse) and a forward gear (or with a manual transmission, between First or Second gear and Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index. Using the Recovery Hooks

If you ever get stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

5-33

..... . .. 8

NOTICE: Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered

by warranty.

5 -34

Service & Appearance Care

Section

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle . This part begins with service and fuel information. and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels . There is also technical information about your vehicle. and a section devoted to its appearance care . Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-2 Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-3 Checking Things Under the Hood .............................. 6-6 Engineoil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-8 Aircleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-14 Automatic Transmission Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-15 Manual Transmission Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-18 Hydraulic Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-20 RearAxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-20 Transfer Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-21 FrontAxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-22 Enginecoolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-23 Power Steering Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-26 Windshield Washer Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-28 Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-29 Replacing Brake System Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-30 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-31 Vehiclestorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-31 Bulb Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-32 Other Maintenance Items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-35 Loading Your Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-39 Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-42 Appearance Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-49 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-58 Service Parts Identification Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-60 Fuses and Circuit Breakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-60 Capacities and Specifications Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-62

6-1

Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Dohg Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service Publications” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

NOTICE:

I If you try to do your own service work without knowing enough

about it, your vehicle could be damaged.

6-2

Fuel The 8th digit of your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) shows the code letter for your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of your instrument panel. (See “Vehicle Identification Number” in the Index.) Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. With the 4.3L (Code W) engine, use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for high power performance, when towing a trailer or with a high payload requirement. But when operating with a light load as a normal condition, you may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines. The gasoline you use should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the U.S. and CGSB 3.5-92 in Canada. These fuels should have the proper additives, so you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In the U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be sure you get the right kind of gasoline (unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right on the pump. And only unleaded nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler neck. Be sure the posted octane is at least 9 1 for premium, 89 for middle grade and 87 for regular. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or higher and you still hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. What about gasoline with blending materials that contain oxygen (oxygenates), such as MTBE or alcohol? MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.” Fuel that is no more than 15% MTBE is fine for your vehicle. Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol. Properly-blended fuel that is no more than 10% ethanol is fine for your vehicle. Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.

NOTICE: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. And even at 5% or less, there must be “cosolvents” and corrosion preventers in this fuel to help avoid these problems.

6-3

Gasolines for CIeaner Air Your use of gasoline with deposit control additives will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system. That helps keep your engine in tune and your emission control system working properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air. Many gasolines are now blended with oxygenates. General Motors recommends that you use gasolines with these blending materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high carbon monoxide levels. In addition, some gasoline suppliers are now producing reformulated gasolines. These gasolines are specially designed to reduce vehicle emissions. General Motors recommends that you use reformulated gasoline. By doing so, you can help clean the air, especially in those parts of the country that have high ozone levels. You should ask your service station operators if their gasolines contain deposit control additives and oxygenates, and if they have been reformulated to reduce vehicle emissions. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel may be hard to find. Do not use leaded gasoline. If you use even one tankful, your emission controls won’t work well or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs can get fouled, the exhaust system can corrode, and your engine oil can deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor will be damaged. All of that means costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

6-4

Filling ‘Your Tank

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the left side of your vehicle.

To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index. When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right until you hear a clicking noise.

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NOTICE: If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit or have proper venting, and your fuel tank and emissions system might be damaged.

Checking Things Under the Hood

Then go to the front of the vehicle and release the secondary hood release.

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Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. You may have a light that comes on when you lift the hood.

Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood Prop.

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Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer.

Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on

level ground. I Turn off the engine

and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

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To Check Engine Oil Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip lower.

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add some oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.

NOTICE: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

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Just fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

What Kind of Oil to Use Beginning midyear 1993, oils of the proper quality for your vehicle will be identified with this new “starburst” symbol. The “starburst” symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API), and is preferred for use in your gasoline engine.

You should look for this on the front of the oil container, and use only oils that display this new symbol.

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You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAL VISCOSITY GRADE 011 FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS

HOT

- +38

WEATHER [ f 20 I

- + 4 - - 7 - - 1 8

- +27 - +16

SAE 5W-30 PREFERRED

+ 40

+ 60

COLD

WEATHER

SAE 1OW-30

IF NEITHER SAE 5W-30 NOR SAE 1OW-30 GRADE OILS ARE AVAILABLE, SAE 30 GRADE MAY BE USED AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 40 DEGREES F (4 DEGREES C). DO NOT USE SAE 1OW-40, SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE low-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-1 8°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 1OW-40 or SAE 20W-50. If you cannot find oils with the new “starburst” symbol on the front of the container, you should look for and use oils containing the following three things:

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SHorSG “SH” or “SG” must be on the oil container, either by itself or combined with other quality designations, such as “SH/CD,” “SH, SG, CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. These letters show American Petroleum Institute (API) levels of quality. SAE 5W-30 Energy Conserving I1 Oils with these words on the container will help you save fuel.

These three things are usually included in a doughnut shaped logo (symbol) on most containers. If you cannot find oils with the “starburst” symbol, you should look for oils with the doughnut shaped symbol, containing the three things noted above.

NOTICE: If you use oils that do not have either the “starburst” symbol or an API SH or SG designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil (in Canada, GM Engine Oil) meets all the requirements for your vehicle. Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added.

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When to Change Engine Oil See if any one of these is true for you:

Most trips are less than 4 miles (6 km). It’s below freezing outside and most trips are less than 10 miles ( I 6 km).

0 The engine is at low speed most of the time (as in door-to-door

delivery, or in stop-and-go You tow a trailer often.

traffic).

0 Most trips are through dusty places. 0 The vehicle is frequently operated off-road.

If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil andfilter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever comes first. If none of them is true, change the oil every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first. Change the filter at the first oil change and at every other oil change after that. Four-wheel Drive Remote Oil Filter If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you will have a remote oil filter located under the hood. It is mounted to the front left inner fender, behind the headlights. Engine Coolant Heater (Engine Block Heater) An engine coolant heater can be a big help if you have to park outside in very cold weather, 0°F (-18°C) or colder. If your vehicle has this option, see “Engine Coolant Heater ” in the Index. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

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Air Cleaner

To remove the round air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN Z) engine, turn the wing nuts to the left. Remove the cover and change the filter. Care should be taken during reassembly to ensure that the cover is on straight and the wingnuts are properly tightened.

I “ a

To remove the square air cleaner filter for the 4.3L (VIN W) high performance engine, loosen both wingnuts (one on the duct and one on the cover). Lift the air cleaner assembly up from the vehicle. Open both clamps and lift off cover to change the filter. While reassembling the air cleaner assembly, ensure that the air cleaner cover tabs are fully inserted into the slots in the air cleaner housing, the two wingscrews are secured, and the PCV air tube is properly seated in the left hand valve cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services’’ in the Index.

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NOTICE: If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your fluid. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

a fire. Be sure to get

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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:

0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

At high speed for quite a while.

0 In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.

While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). To check transmission fluid hot: Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), drive the vehicle in “D” (3rd Gear) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for ten minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures. To check transmissionfluid cold: A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO”C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

To check the fluid hot or cold 0 Park your vehicle on a level place. 0 With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in “P’ (Park).

With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in “P” (Park). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting ofSthe engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a

clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out

again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid

level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

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4. If the fluid level

is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the COLD area for a cold check or the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than a pint. Don’t overfill. We recommend you use only fluids labeled DEXR0N’-I11 or DEXR0N’-IIE, because fluids with those labels are made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluids other than DEXRON@-I11 or DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

Manual Transmission Fluid

When to Check A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing. How fo Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at a GM dealership Service Department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.

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I NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. Then, follow these steps:

1. Remove the filler (upper) plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole. 3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If

the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.

How to Add Fluid Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants’’ in the Index.

1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the

fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.

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Hydraulic Clutch The hydraulic clutch in your vehicle is self-adjusting. A slight amount of play (114 inch to 1/2 inch) in the pedal is normal. When to Check and What to Use

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

How to check The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap. Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Four-Wheel Drive Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. TrariSfer Case

When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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Wow to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

The arrow on the the left shows the drain plug location. The arrow on the right shows the filler plug location.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Front Axle

When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.

How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. If the differential is at operating temperature (warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

, .’ @”,

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If the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.

What to use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolanr The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. The proper coolant for your vehicle will:

0 Give freezing protection down to -20 “F (-29”C), or -34°F (-37°C) in

Canada and for vehicles with the cold climate option. Give boiling protection up to 258°F (125°C).

0 Protect against rust and corrosion.

Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean water (preferably distilled) and one-half antifreeze that meets “GM Specification 6038-M,” which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can use a recycled coolant conforming to “GM Specification 6038-M,” with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

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I NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Some conditions, such as air trapped in the cooling system, can affect the coolant level in the radiator. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold and follow the steps under “Adding Coolant” for the proper way to add coolant. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

NOTICE: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Adding Coolant

To Check Coolant When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at “ADD,” or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to “FULL HOT,” or a little higher.

To Add Coolant

If you need more coolant, add the proper mix at the coolant recovery tank.

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Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Radiator Pressure Cap

NOTICE: Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an A P cap is recommended. See “Service Replacement Part and Filter Recommendations” in the Index.

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Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. When you replace your thermostat, an AC@ thermostat is recommended. Power Steering Fluid

NOTICE: Always turn the engine off before checking or adding power steering fluid. The power steering cap is close to the fan and other moving parts.

Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it.

Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.

0 When the engine compartment is hot, the level should be at the “HOT”

mark.

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0 When the engine compartment is cool, the level should be at the

“FULL COLD” mark.

What to Add Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

NOTICE: When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

Windshield Washer Fluid To Add

Open the cap labeled “WASHER FLUID ONLY.” Add washer fluid until the bottle is full.

NOTICE: 0 When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

0 Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid, Water can

cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.

0 Fill your washer fluid tank only 3/4 full when it’s very cold.

This allows for expansion, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint,

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Brakes Brake Master Cylinder

Your brake master cylinder is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in your master cylinder might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

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To Check Brake Fluid

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the windows