2007 Chevrolet AVEO Owners Manual

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..................... 332 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ............ 333 Wheel Replacement .................................. 333 Tire Chains ............................................... 335 If a Tire Goes Flat .................................... 335 Changing a Flat Tire ................................. 336 Removing the Spare Tire and Tools .......... 337 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire ......................... 339 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools ...... 344 Compact Spare Tire .................................. 344 Appearance Care ........................................ 345 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .......... 345 Fabric/Carpet ............................................. 346 Leather ...................................................... 347 Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ........................... 348 Care of Safety Belts .................................. 348 Weatherstrips ............................................ 348 Washing Your Vehicle ............................... 349 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses ................ 349 Finish Care ............................................... 349 Windshield and Wiper Blades .................... 350 Aluminum Wheels ...................................... 350 Tires ......................................................... 351 Sheet Metal Damage ................................. 351 Finish Damage .......................................... 352 Underbody Maintenance ............................ 352 Chemical Paint Spotting ............................ 352 Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ............ 353 262 Section 5 Service and Appearance Care Vehicle Identiﬁcation .................................. 354 Vehicle Identiﬁcation Number (VIN) ........... 354 Service Parts Identiﬁcation Label ............... 354 Electrical System ........................................ 355 Add-On Electrical Equipment ..................... 355 Headlamp Wiring ....................................... 355 Windshield Wiper Fuses ............................ 355 Power Windows and Other Power Options ... 356 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ....................... 356 Instrument Panel Fuse Block ..................... 357 Engine Compartment Fuse Block ............... 361 Capacities and Speciﬁcations .................... 368 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ..... 369 Engine Drive Belt Routing ......................... 370 263 Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks: Accessories and Modiﬁcations When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. 264 California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many ﬂuids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals. Doing Your Own Service Work {CAUTION: You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. (cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt. If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 421. 265 Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. Gasoline Speciﬁcations At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM speciﬁcation D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 267 for additional information. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 82. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 398. Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airﬂow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle. To help keep your engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, GM recommends the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. 266 California Fuel If your vehicle is certiﬁed to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California speciﬁcations. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal speciﬁcations, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 168 for sedans or Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181 for hatchbacks. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. 267 Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the speciﬁcations described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service. Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to ﬁnd. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving. 268 Filling the Tank {CAUTION: Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel ﬁre can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, ﬂames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle. This is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel. To open the fuel ﬁller door, pull up on the release lever with this symbol on it. It is located on the ﬂoor on the outboard side of the driver’s seat. 269 To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. {CAUTION: If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way. Hatchback shown. Sedan similar The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. 270 Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overﬁll the tank and wait a few seconds after you have ﬁnished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 349. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181. {CAUTION: If a ﬁre starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the ﬂow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately. If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to Notice: get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not ﬁt properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 181. 271 Filling a Portable Fuel Container CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Bring the ﬁll nozzle in contact with the inside of the ﬁll opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the ﬁlling is complete. (cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline. {CAUTION: Never ﬁll a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others: (cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. (cid:127) Do not ﬁll a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. CAUTION: (Continued) 272 Checking Things Under the Hood {CAUTION: An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. {CAUTION: Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a ﬁre. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake ﬂuid, windshield washer and other ﬂuids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine. 273 Hood Release To open the hood, do the following: 1. Pull the hood release handle inside the vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel. 274 2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and lift up on the secondary hood release lever, located under the front center of the hood. 3. Lift the hood and release the hood prop from its retainer located on the underside of the hood. 4. Securely place the hood prop into the slot on the inner fender. Before closing the hood, be sure all the ﬁller caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop. Remove the hood prop from the slot in the inner fender and return the prop to its retainer. Lower the hood 12 inches (30 cm) above the vehicle and release it so it fully latches. Check to make sure the hood is closed and repeat the process if necessary. 275 Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, here is what you will see: Automatic shown, Manual similar 276 A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 281. B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 277. C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 277. D. Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under Brakes on page 299 and Hydraulic Clutch on page 286. E. Automatic Transaxle Dipstick. See Automatic Transaxle Fluid on page 283. F. Engine Coolant Surge Tank. See Cooling System on page 292. G. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See Engine Compartment Fuse Block on page 361. H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering Fluid on page 297. I. Battery. See Battery on page 303. J. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 298. Engine Oil If the oil pressure light comes on, it means you need to check the engine oil level right away. The oil pressure light is on the instrument panel cluster for sedans. See Oil Pressure Light on page 185. For hatchbacks, the oil pressure light is on the Secondary Information Center (SIC). See Oil Pressure Light on page 185. You should check the engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. 277 Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. 2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down and check the level. When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is below the lower hole at the tip of the dipstick (B), you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 368. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper hole (A) that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for the location of the engine oil ﬁll cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range, between the holes on the dipstick. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. 278 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certiﬁed by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Look for two things: • GM6094M Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. • SAE 5W-30 As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Notice: Use only engine oil identiﬁed as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certiﬁed For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. 279 • You frequently use a carrier on top of your vehicle. • The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi, or other commercial application. Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change the oil and ﬁlter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and ﬁlter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule: • Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. • Most trips include extensive idling, such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic. 280 What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station, or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. 281 {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂames if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre Notice: can cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) and replace it every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the ﬁlter, do the following: 1. Remove the screws and lift off the cover. 2. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. 3. Put the cover back on tightly and tighten the screws. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 374 for replacement intervals. 282 Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Check your automatic transaxle ﬂuid level at least twice a year. Add ﬂuid if needed. See At Least Twice a Year on page 389. How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little ﬂuid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the ﬂuid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a ﬁre. Too little ﬂuid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle ﬂuid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle ﬂuid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather. • At high speed for quite a while. • To get the right reading, the ﬂuid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 158°F to 176°F (70°C to 80°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. 283 Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: 1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. 2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). 4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ﬁve minutes. Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: The automatic transaxle dipstick is located toward the front of the engine compartment, near the power steering ﬂuid reservoir. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. 1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel. 2. Push the dipstick back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again. 3. Check both sides of the dipstick, ﬂuid should be between MIN and MAX mark of the hot area of the dipstick. 4. If the ﬂuid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. 284 How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle ﬂuid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. If the ﬂuid level is low, add only enough of the proper ﬂuid to bring the level into the area between the two dimples in the hot range on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough ﬂuid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much ﬂuid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overﬁll. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle ﬂuid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transaxle ﬂuid listed in Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. 3. After adding ﬂuid, recheck the ﬂuid level as described under “How to Check Automatic Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section. 4. When the correct ﬂuid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way. Manual Transaxle Fluid It is not necessary to check the transaxle ﬂuid level. A transaxle ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396 for the proper ﬂuid to use. 285 Hydraulic Clutch There is one reservoir for both the brake and the hydraulic clutch ﬂuid. See Brakes on page 299 for more information. The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with hydraulic ﬂuid. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. When to Check and What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the ﬂuid level in your master cylinder reservoir and for the proper ﬂuid. See Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 389 and Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. 286 How to Check and Add Fluid To check the ﬂuid level, look on the side of the reservoir. If the ﬂuid reaches the MAX (A) mark on the reservoir, the ﬂuid level is correct. If the ﬂuid does not reach the MIN (B) mark on the reservoir, then ﬂuid needs to be added. The reservoir is located near the back of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 290. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). • Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the ﬁrst maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 287 If you use an improper coolant Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396 for more information. If you use extra inhibitors and/or What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. 288 Checking Coolant The engine coolant surge tank is located in the rear of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. {CAUTION: Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. To check the engine coolant, the vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the Maximum (A) and Minimum (B) marks on the coolant surge tank. The level rises at engine operation temperature and drops again when the engine cools down. 289 Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. If the pressure cap is not tightly Engine Overheating You will ﬁnd a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 167. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant surge tank, but only when the engine is cool. If the coolant surge tank is empty, a special ﬁll procedure is necessary. See Engine Overheating on page 290 for instructions on “How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank.” {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated. 290 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. If your engine catches ﬁre because Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. 291 If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood, but to get service help right away. Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fan 292 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing, and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. To check the engine coolant, the vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Make sure that the air conditioning is turned off. The coolant level should be between the Minimum and Maximum marks on the coolant surge tank when the engine is cool. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running. If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running. If it is not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. 293 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank Notice: This vehicle has a speciﬁc coolant ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not between the Minimum and Maximum marks, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 287 for more information. If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. 294 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant. In cold weather, water can freeze and Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about two or two and one-half turns. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. This will allow any pressure still left to be vented out the discharge hose. 295 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and remove it. 3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture to the Maximum mark on the coolant surge tank. Wait about ﬁve minutes, then check to see if the level is below the mark. If the level is below the Maximum mark, add additional coolant to bring the level up to the mark. Repeat this procedure until the level remains constant at the Maximum mark for at least ﬁve minutes. 296 4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower than the Maximum mark, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the mark. 5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. See your dealer, if necessary. Power Steering Fluid When to Check Power Steering Fluid The power steering ﬂuid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for reservoir location. It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. 297 How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. The level should be between the MIN (B) and MAX (A) marks on the reservoir. If the level drops below the MIN (B) mark, add power steering ﬂuid. Do not overﬁll the reservoir and remember to replace the cap tightly when you are ﬁnished and clean up any spilled ﬂuid. 298 What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. (cid:127) Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. Brakes Brake Fluid Your vehicle has one reservoir for both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems. It is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake or clutch system. If it is, you should have your brake/clutch system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. 299 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 396. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake and/or clutch hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 164. 300 Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 349. (cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. 301 Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 395. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and ﬁrmly applying the brakes a few times. 302 Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 304 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 303 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. 304 Ignoring these steps could result in Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicle’s system is not a Notice: 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlet. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio! 4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on each vehicle. Your vehicle’s positive (+) terminal is located under a red tethered cap on the battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 276 for more information on location. Flip the cap up to access the positive (+) terminal. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. 305 {CAUTION: {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 306 Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 307 To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the positive (+) terminal cap to its original position. Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote Negative (–) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote Negative (−) Terminals C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal 308 Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. Headlamp Aiming Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers ﬂash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 317. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. 309 Headlamps (Hatchback) To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 274 for more information. 2. Remove the ﬁve screws from top of the radiator grille. 3. Remove the radiator grille. 5. Remove the headlamp assembly. 6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the rear of the bulb. 7. Remove the headlamp cap. 4. Remove the three bolts from the headlamp assembly. 310 8. Release the spring that retains the bulb by loosing the screw. 9. Remove the old bulb. 10. Install the new bulb. 11. Install the bulb retaining spring. 12. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to install the headlamp assembly. Headlamps (Sedan) To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 274 for more information. 2. Remove the three bolts from the headlamp assembly. 3. Remove the headlamp assembly. 4. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the rear of the bulb. 5. Remove the headlamp cap. 311 Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps (Hatchback) To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the radiator grille and the headlamp assembly. See Steps 2 through 5 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 for instructions on how to remove the headlamp assembly. 6. Release the spring that retains the bulb. 7. Remove the old bulb. 8. Install the new bulb. 9. Install the bulb retaining spring. 10. Reverse Steps 1 through 6 to install the headlamp assembly. 312 2. Turn the front turn signal bulb socket counterclockwise. 3. Pull the front turn signal bulb socket out of the lamp housing. 4. Press the bulb inward and turn it counterclockwise to remove it from the bulb socket. 5. Install the new bulb into the socket by pressing it in and turning it clockwise. 6. Install the socket into the lamp housing by turning it clockwise. 7. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to install the assembly. Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps (Sedan) To replace a front turn signal or parking lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 274 for more information. 2. Remove the headlamp assembly. See Steps 2 through 4 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 for instructions on how to remove the headlamp assembly. 3. Turn the front turn signal bulb socket counterclockwise. 4. Pull the front turn signal bulb socket out of the lamp housing. 5. Press the bulb inward and turn it counterclockwise to remove it from the bulb socket. 313 6. Install the new bulb into the socket by pressing it in and turning it clockwise. 7. Install the socket into the lamp housing by turning it clockwise. 8. Reverse Steps 1 through 2 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 to install the assembly. Turn Signal Lamps (Side) To replace a side turn signal bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 274 for more information. 2. See Steps 2 through 5 under Headlamps (Hatchback) on page 310 or Headlamps (Sedan) on page 311 to access the side turn signal lamps. 3. Remove the side turn signal lamp assembly by pulling it forward. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise. 314 5. Remove the bulb from the lamp housing by pulling the bulb straight out of the socket. 6. Install the new bulb into the bulb socket by pushing it in and rotating the bulb socket clockwise. 7. Push the side turn signal lamp assembly back into its original position. Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) (Sedan) To replace a CHMSL bulb on the hatchback, contact your dealer. To replace a CHMSL bulb on the sedan do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 98 for more information. 2. Remove the two screws and the lamp housing. Disconnect the wiring harness connector before removing the lamp housing. 3. Remove the ﬁve screws and the reﬂector assembly. 4. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight out of the bulb holder. 5. Install the new bulb. 6. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall. 315 Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal lamp, stoplamp, or back-up bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk or liftgate. See Trunk on page 98 or Liftgate (Hatchback) on page 100 for more information. Sedan 2. Remove the two screws and the lamp assembly. 3. Remove the bulb socket by turning it counterclockwise. 4. Remove the bulb from the socket by pressing the bulb and turning it counterclockwise. 5. Install the appropriate bulb into the socket. 6. Replace the bulb socket into the lamp housing. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to secure. 7. Reverse Step 2 to reinstall the lamp housing. Hatchback 316 License Plate Lamp To replace one of these bulbs, do the following: Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamp Bulb Number Back-Up Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) Headlamps Front Parking/Turn Signal (Hatchback) Front Parking/Turn Signal (Sedan) Side Turn Signal (Hatchback) Side Turn Signal (Sedan) Stoplamp/Taillamps Turn Signal Lamps 94535571 94535587 94535548 94535574 94535574 94535587 94535587 94535574 94535572 1. Remove the two screws holding each of the license plate lamps. 2. Turn and pull the license plate lamp forward through the opening. For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. 3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket. 4. Install the new bulb. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall the license plate lamp. 317 Here is how to remove the Shepherd’s Hook type: Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade Check” under Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 389 for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. 1. Pull the windshield wiper arm away from the windshield. 2. Press the retaining clip (A) and pull the wiper blade off the arm. 3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2. 318 Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your vehicle’s tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. CAUTION: (Continued) CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your vehicle’s tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 326. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If the tire’s tread is badly worn, or if your vehicle’s tires have been damaged, replace them. 319 Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger Car Tire Example 320 (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (E) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 332. (F) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 326 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 344 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 335. 321 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 344 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 326. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. 322 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 70, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/ transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 326. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. 323 DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. 324 Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 326 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 329. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 332. Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. 325 Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much ﬂexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 248. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 344. 326 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 329 and Wheel Replacement on page 333 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 374. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire

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2007 Chevrolet AVEO Owners Manual