1997 Chevrolet Astro Owners Manual

negative (-) terminal. Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Make your last connection away from the battery, to the engine block, frame or other unpainted metal parts of your vehicle. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it

won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

5-6

A. Heavy Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery C . Dead Battery

I A CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others:

Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is being towed. Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds. Never tow with damaged parts not fully secured. Never get under your vehicle after it has been lifted by the tow truck. Always use separate safety chains on each side when towing a vehicle. Use T-hooks on front or rear of vehicle.

Towing Your Vehicle Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your vehicle. They can provide the right equipment and know how to tow it without damage. See “Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these things can be damaged during towing. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

Whether your vehicle has rear-wheel drive or the all-wheel-drive option. That your vehicle cannot be towed from the front or rear with sling-type equipment. The make, model and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

5-7

A vehicle can fall from a car carrier if it isn’t adequately secured. This can cause a collision, serious personal injury and vehicle damage. The vehicle should be tightly secured with chains or steel cables before it is transported. Don’t use substitutes (ropes, leather straps, canvas webbing, etc.) that can be cut by sharp edges underneath the towed vehicle.

If your vehicle has the all-wheel-drive option, it can only be towed with all four wheels off the ground. A dolly must be used under the un-raised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier. Don’t have your vehicle towed with the wheels in contact with the ground if it has all-wheel drive. If a vehicle with all-wheel drive must be towed with sling-type or wheel-lift equipment, then either the front or rear wheels must be supported on a dolly.

I NOTICE:

When your vehicle is being towed, have the ignition key in the OFF position. The steering wheel should be clamped in a straight-ahead position, with a clamping device designed for towing service. Do not use the vehicle’s steering column lock for this. The transmission should be in NEUTRAL (N) and the parking brake released.

If your vehicle has all-wheel drive, do not have it towed with the wheels in contact with the ground or vehicle damage may occur. A dolly must be used under the un-raised wheels when towing or the vehicle must be transported on a flat bed carrier.

Towing From the Front (Except All-Wheel Drive) Tow Limits -- 35 mph (56 k d ) , 50 miles (80 km)

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

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Towing From the Front (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the rear wheels when towing from the front.

5-10

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the front bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment. Do not attach winch cables or J-hooks to suspension components when using car-carrier equipment. Always use T-hooks inserted in the T-hook slots.

Towing From the Rear (Except All-Wheel Drive)

I NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

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Towing From the Rear (All-Wheel Drive) A towing dolly must be used under the front wheels when towing from the reaK

NOTICE:

Do not tow with sling-type equipment or the rear bumper system will be damaged. Use wheel-lift or car-carrier equipment. Additional ramping may be required for car-carrier equipment. Use safety chains and wheel straps. Towing a vehicle over rough surfaces could damage a vehicle. Damage can occur from vehicle to ground or vehicle to wheel-lift equipment. To help avoid damage, install a towing dolly and raise the vehicle until adequate clearance is obtained between the ground and/or wheel-lift equipment.

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Engine Overheating You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Gages” in the Index. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

“‘ON:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-13

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get the overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: 0 Climb a long hill on a hot day. 0 Stop after high-speed driving. 0 Idle for long periods in traffic.

Tow a trailer, See “Driving on Grades” in the Index. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. Turn off your air conditioner. 2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);

otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving -- DRIVE (D).

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, push the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed. Bring the engine speed back to normal idle speed after two or three minutes. Now see if the warning stops. But then, if you still have the warning, turn o f t h e engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-14

Cooling System When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Engine Fan If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.

The coolant level should be at the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

5-15

A CAUTION:

- - - - - Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again. See if the fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

5-16

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean water (prefembly distilled) and DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) antifreeze at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information.)

CAU [ON:

- - -

,/!\ Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ coolant.

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mix.

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the ADD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mix directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-17

JTION:

even a little -- they can come out

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

- 0

5-18

How to Add Coolant to the radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

I 2. Then keep turning the

pressure cap, but now

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3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the ADD mark. 5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but

leave the radiator pressure cap off.

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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.

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Engine Fan Noise This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages. You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-22

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

I A CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. 'hrn off the engine. 4. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-23

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored by your vehicle’s rear doors, along the passenger side wall. Remove your jack cover by pulling it away from the side wall and down to release the tabs securing the top of the cover.

Remove the wheel blocks by turning the top nut counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer, then pull the wheel blocks off the bolt. Push down on the bolt and remove the hooked end from the slot. Slide the jack toward the front of the vehicle and lift it from the mounting. Remove the extension and the ratchet from the pouch.

5-24

Your spare tire is stored underneath the rear of your vehicle. You will use the ratchet and extension to lower the spare tire.

It also has a DOWN side.

Attach the ratchet, with the DOWN side facing you, to the extension. The extension has a socket end and a flat chisel end.

5-25

Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Be sure the flat end connects into the hoist shaft.

When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening.

Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

I NOTICE:

To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before cable is restored.

Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Keep turning the ratchet until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle.

5-26

A

The tools you'll be using include the jack (A), wheel blocks (B), extension (C) and ratchet (D). Removing the Wheel Covers You will have to take off hub caps or wheel nut caps to reach your wheel nuts.

If you have a standard steel wheel, carefully pry along the edge of the hub cap until it comes off. Be careful, the rim edges may be sharp. Don't try to remove the hub cap with your bare hands. If you have the styled steel wheel, loosen the plastic nut caps with the ratchet and socket. Make sure the DOWN side faces you. To remove the hub cap from the aluminum wheel, fit the flat end of the extension into the notch. Then, remove the center cap.

5-27

5-28

4. Attach the ratchet to the extension with the UP side

facing you.

5. Rotate the ratchet to the right. That will raise the jack

lift head a little.

6. Position the jack under the vehicle.

- A CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

5-29

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

~~~~~~~~

~~

Do not jack up the vehicle with people in or near the vehicle.

5-30

7. Raise the vehicle by rotating the ratchet clockwise. Make sure the UP mark faces you. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.

8. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

A CAI'TION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

10. Put on the spare tire. Put the nuts on by hand. Make

sure the cone-shaped end is toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can't be turned by hand, use the extension and see your dealer as soon as possible.

9. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

I A CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-3 1

12. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a criss-cross sequence as shown. Turn the ratchet clockwise with the UP mark facing you.

A CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb-ft (140 Nom).

11. Lower the vehicle by turning the ratchet

counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

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NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

13. Remove the wheel blocks.

I NOTICE:

Wheel covers won’t fit on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on your compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

1. Put the flat tire on the ground at the rear of the

vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down.

2. Tilt the retaining bar downward and through the

wheel opening. Make sure it is fully seated across the underside of the wheel. Attach the ratchet, with the UP side facing you, to the extension.

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3. Put the flat end of the extension on an angle through

the hole in the rear door frame, above the bumper. Turn the ratchet clockwise until the tire is against the underside of the vehicle. You will feel two “clicks” when the tire is up all the way. Try to move the tire with your hands to make sure it is securely in place.

The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See “Compact Spare Tire” in the Index. See the storage instructions label to restore your compact spare properly. Return the jacking equipment to its proper location.

. Jacking Tool Storage Bag 2. Jack 3. Bracket 4. Jacking Instruction Tag 5. Bolt/Screw 6. Wheel Blocks 7. Washer 8. Nut

5-34

Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inflated when your vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inflation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure your spare tire is correctly inflated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 k d h ) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km), so you can finish your trip and have your full-size tire repaired or replaced where you want. Of course, it’s best to replace your spare with a full-size tire as soon as you can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles. And don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

NOTICE:

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

5-35

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow What you don’t want to do when your vehicle is stuck is to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 kmh) as shown on the speedometer.

1 NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

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b.6) NOTES

f i NOTES

5-38

Section 6 Service and Appearance Care

Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.

6- 2 6-3 6-4 6-5 6-7 6-1 1 6- 15 6- 19 6-20 6-23 6-25 6-25 6-29 6-30 6-30 6-3 1 6-32 6-36 6-36 6-36

Service Fuel Fuels in Foreign Countries Filling Your Tank Checking Things Under the Hood Engine Oil Engine Cover Air Cleaner Automatic Transmission Fluid All-Wheel Drive Rear Axle Engine Coolant Radiator Pressure Cap Thermostat Power Steering Fluid Windshield Washer Fluid Brakes Battery Bulb Replacement Halogen Bulbs

6-42 6-43 6-50 6-5 1 6-54 6-55

6-55 6-57 6-5 8 6-5 8 6-5 8 6-59 6-60 6-60 6-60 6-66 6-66 6-67 6-68

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Tires Appearance Care Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Glass Surfaces Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield, Backglass and Wiper Blades Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle Cleaning Tires Finish Damage Underbody Maintenance Chemical Paint Spotting Appearance Care Materials Chart Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Service Parts Identification Label Electrical System Replacement Bulbs Capacities and Specifications Air Conditioning Refrigerants Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts

6-1

Service Your GM dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

n w

Delco

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to get the proper GM Service Manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.

6-2

Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it. Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task. Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metrid’ fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your GM dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. At a minimum, it should meet specifications ASTM D48 14 in the United States and CGSB 3.5-M93 in Canada. Improved gasoline specifications have been developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system protection compared to other gasolines. Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine. If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid

of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem. If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (indicated on the underhood tune-up label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not his fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

6-3

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to help clean the air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier.

NOTICE:

Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.

Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving. You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

General Motors International Product Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario LlH 8P7

6-4

Filling Your Tank

A CAUTION:

Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.

The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.

6-5

A CAUTION:

If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.

While refueling, place the cap in the holder on the fuel filler door. To take off the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.

6-6

When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

NOTICE:

If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

Checking Things Under the Hoc4 m -

Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

6-7

Hood Release

6-8

When you open the hood, this is what you will see:

A. Windshield Washer Fluid

Fill Location

B. Coolant Fill Location C. Oil Dipstick Location

D. Transmission Dipstick/Fill

Location

G. Brake Master

Cylinder Reservoir

E. Air Cleaner F. Oil Fill Location

H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir I. Battery

6-9

:

Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then just pull the hood down and close it firmly.

Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.

6-10

The engine oil dipstick is a yellow ring. Turn off the engine and give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.

6-11

When to Add Oil If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications’’ in the Index.

What Kind of Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the “Starburst” symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (APT). Do not use any oil which does not carry this Starburst symbol.

NOTICE:

~~

~~~

~~~~~~~

Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the Starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.

If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines. You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:

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RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST SAE VISCOSITY GRADE OIL FOR THE EXPECTED TEMPERATURE RANGE.

LOOK

FOR THIS SYMBOL

HOT

WEATHER 7 “C “F

c 100 -

t 38

+80.

t 21

+60.

t 16

+ 40.

t b

+20.

- 7

0 -

- 18

COLD

WEATHM

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 1OW-30 if it’s going to be 0°F (-18°C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.

NOTICE:

Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines “Starburst” symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.

GM Goodwrench@ oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29”C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.

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Engine Oil Additives Don’t add anything to your oil. Your GM dealer is ready to advise if you think something should be added. When to Change Engine Oil If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing. Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic). Most trips are through dusty areas. You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever occurs first.

If none of them is true, use the long triphighway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower. What to Do with Used Oil Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.) Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

6-14

Engine Cover Removing the Engine Cover 1. Move both front seats as far back as they will go.

3. The nuts are located at the bottom of the extension

on the driver’s and passenger’s side corners.

2. Remove the instrument panel extension by removing

the two nuts that secure it in place.

6-15

4. Unscrew the screws located near the top on each side of the extension. Grasp the extension from both sides and gently remove it.

5. Disconnect the electrical connectors and set the

extension aside.

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6. Grasp the top of the heater duct and pull down gently

to remove it.

7. Remove the two bolts at the engine cover. The bolts are not supposed to come out of the cover, only from the front of the dash. When removing the cover, be careful not to damage the instrument panel or the trim.

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Installing the Engine Cover 1. Lift the engine cover into the vehicle and slide it all the way forward. Make sure the rubber seal is over the latches.

2. Install the two bolts at the engine cover. 3. Put the heater duct over the engine cover studs. Push

up on the duct gently until it snaps into place.

4. Reconnect the electrical connectors. 5. Install the engine cover extension by gently squeezing the sides and sliding it into place. Make sure all of the fastener clips engage and the extension fits properly in place. Replace and tighten the two screws.

6. Install the two nuts to secure the extension in place.

8. Grasp the bottom of the cover and slide it rearward.

Then, lift it up and out of the vehicle.

6-18

4ir Cleaner

See “Scheduled Maintenance” in the Index.

Operating the engine with the air cleaner off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner off.

I NOTICE:

If the air cleaner is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner in place when you’re driving.

6-19

To remove the air filter, lift the hood, unsnap both clips and remove the top. After changing the filter, snap both clips to secure the air cleaner. Be sure the air cleaner lid is correctly positioned to seal out dust and contaminants that are harmful to your engine. Make sure the fresh air hose is still attached after the filter change. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter and the crankcase ventilation filter.

Automatic Transmission Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: 0 In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature

regularly reaches 90 O F (32 ” C ) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain.

0 When doing frequent trailer towing.

Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (50 000 km). See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership Service Department.

If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

NOTICE:

Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.

Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving: 0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 0 At high speed for quite a while. 0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather. 0 While pulling a trailer. To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).

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Checking Transmission Fluid Hot Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C)' drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.

Checking Transmission Fluid Cold A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it's colder than 50°F (lO°C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.

Checking the Fluid Hot or Cold

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.

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Then, without shutting ofT the engine, follow these steps:

1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and

wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower

level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.

4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the

dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

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How to Add Fluid Refer to the Mainterl‘ance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take.much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don P overjill.

I NOTICE:

We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-I11 is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.” When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.

All-Wheel Drive If you have an all-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication. Transfer Case When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections’’ in the Index.

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How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

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Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.

Rear Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index. How to Check Lubricant

If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Engine Coolant The cooling s stem in your vehicle is filled with new DEX-COOL J engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km) whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL’ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index. A 50/50 mixture of water and DEX-COOL@ coolant for your vehicle will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature.

0 Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

6-25

I NOTICE:

you use

When adding coolant, it is important that only DEX-COOL’ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL’ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the

engine coolant will require change sooner -- at

30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean wuter (preferably distilled) and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mix will, Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mix. With plain water or the wrong mix, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned, Use a 50/50 mix of clean water and DEX-COOL@ antifreeze.

6-26

NOTICE:

If you use an improper coolant mix, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mix can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.

I NOTICE:

If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

Checking Coolant

When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.

6-27

Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.

I I: A

Add coolant mix at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

I A CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don't spill coolant on a hot engine.

'hrning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.

Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.

6-28

Radiator Pressure Cap

I NOTICE:

~~

Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.

When you replace your radiator pressure cap, a GM cap is recommended.

6-29

Thermostat Engine coolant temperature is controlled by a thermostat in the engine coolant system. The thermostat stops the flow of coolant through the radiator until the coolant reaches a preset temperature. Power Steering Fluid

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How To Check Power Steering Fluid When the engine compartment is cool, unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

6-30

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid

Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

NOTICE:

When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. Don’t use radiator antifreeze in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

6-3 1

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should

have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in the Index.

Checking Brake Fluid

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid -- such as Delco Supreme 11 No. 12377967). Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

(GM Part

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap. Just look at the window on the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak. After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above MIN and below the top of the window.

6-33

NOTICE:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

Brake Wear Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and

go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

A CAUThN:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

I NOTICE:

Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean somethim is wrong with your brakes.

6-34

Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications. Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See “Brake System Inspection’’ in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.” Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.

Brake Adjustment Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear. If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a modern vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system -- for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change -- for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

6-35

Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent Feature” in the Index. Bulb Replacement For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer service department. Before replacing any bulbs, make sure all lamps are off and the vehicle is not running. See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. Halogen Bulbs

I A CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Battery Every new vehicle has a Delco Freedom@ battery. You never have to add water to one of these. When it’s time for a new battery, we recommend a Delco Freedom battery. Get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, take off the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.

6-36

Headlamps Sealed Beam Lamps

1. Remove the four retainer screws and the retainer.

2. Pull the connector out and unplug the lamp.

3. Install the new bulb into the connector. 4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the headlamp.

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Composite Headlamps 1. Open the hood.

6-38

3. Completely remove the sidemarkedturn signal lamp

by pulling out the assembly and disconnecting the sidemarkedturn signal lamp sockets from the lamp.

4. Remove the screw located behind the corner reflector in order to remove the entire corner reflector.

5. Remove the remaining three screws; the first one

from the corner reflector pocket and the two remaining from the composite assembly.

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6. Remove the

composite assembly.

Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. Remove the two screws at the inside edge of the

parking/turn signal lamp assembly.

2. Remove the

lamp assembly.

3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket counterclockwise.

7. Turn the halogen bulb counterclockwise to remove

from the assembly.

8. Install the new bulb into the composite assembly by turning it clockwise until it is completely tightened.

9. Replace the composite assembly by installing and tightening all of the screws previously removed.

6-40

4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly. 5. Pull the bulb from the socket. 6. Gently push the new bulb into the socket. 7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn

it clockwise until it locks.

8. Put the parkinghrn signal lamp assembly back into

the vehicle and tighten the screws.

Taillamps 1. Open the rear door.

2. Remove the two screws

from behind the door.

3. Pull out the taillamp assembly so you can see the socket.

6-41

Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement To replace your windshield wiper blade inserts, lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.

4. Press the tab and

turn the socket counterclockwise to remove the socket from the bezel. If the socket does not have a tab, turn the socket counterclockwise to remove the socket from the bezel.

5. Reverse Steps 1 through 4 to reinstall the taillamp.

Pinch the two tabs on the wiper arm and slide the insert out of the blade. Slide the new one in place. Make sure the tabs are locked into position. See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index for the proper type of replacement blade.

6-42

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your warranty booklet for details.

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.

CAUTION: (Continued)

Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden

impact -- such as when you hit a pothole.

Keep tires at the recommended pressure. Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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Inflation -- Tire Pressure

The CertificationRire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).

NOTICE:

Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat

0 Tire overloading

Bad wear Bad handling Bad fuel economy.

NOTICE: (Continued)

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NOTICE: (Continued)

If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following: 0 Unusual wear 0 Bad handling

Rough ride

0 Needless damage from road hazards.

When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).

How to Check use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles ( 10 000 to 1 3 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires’’ and “Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.

When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certificatioflire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. (See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)

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When It’s Time for New Tires -

One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: 0 You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

0 You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s

rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.

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The tire has a bump, bulge or split.

0 The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that

can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

Buying New Tires To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certificationrnire label. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.

1 /r\ CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.

Uniform Tire Quality Grading The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger

car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.

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Traction -- A, B, C

The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, €3, and C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not include cornering (turning) traction.

Temperature -- A, B, C

The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not 6-48

overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced. Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your GM dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.

Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

A CAUTIO, .:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

NOTICE:

The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.

See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.

Used Replacement Wheels

A CAU JON:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

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Tire Chains

NOTICE:

If your vehicle has P235/65R15 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance. If you have other size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only