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happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.


A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. With StabiliTrak®, you may see the STABILITY SYS ACTIVE message on the Driver Information Center. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-79. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.


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While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.


If you use your vehicle for racing or other


Competitive Driving See your warranty book before using your vehicle for competitive driving. Notice: competitive driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine. Be sure to check the oil level often during racing or other competitive driving and keep the level at or near the upper mark that shows the proper operating range on the engine oil dipstick. For information on how to add oil, see Engine Oil on page 5-18.


Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving. (cid:127) Drive defensively. (cid:127) Do not drink and drive. (cid:127) Adjust the inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare


from headlamps behind you.


(cid:127) Since you cannot see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.


(cid:127) Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.


Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare, as from a driver who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps, slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.


Keep the windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and are not even aware of it.


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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads


Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.


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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer fluid reservoir filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.


{CAUTION:


Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.


Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before you hit them.


Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops dimple the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining. Driving Through Deep Standing Water Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.


Driving Through Flowing Water


{CAUTION:


Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.


Some Other Rainy Weather Tips (cid:127) Besides slowing down, allow some extra following


distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.


(cid:127) Have good tires with proper tread depth. See Tires


on page 5-57.


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City Driving


Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving: (cid:127) Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You will save time and energy. See Freeway Driving on page 4-23. Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.


One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) Freeway Driving


Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.


The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow. Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass. Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in your blind spot.


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Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.


Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you are not fresh — such as after a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.


Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you will find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They will be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip: (cid:127) Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are


all windows clean inside and outside?


(cid:127) Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?


Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?


(cid:127) Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook


along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?


(cid:127) Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?


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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as highway hypnosis? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen. Then here are some tips: (cid:127) Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a


comfortably cool interior.


(cid:127) Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors and your instruments frequently. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.


Hill and Mountain Roads


Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.


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(cid:127) If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (cid:127) Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system, and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.


{CAUTION:


If you do not shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.


{CAUTION:


Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they would not work well.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


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CAUTION:


(Continued)


You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.


(cid:127) Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.


(cid:127) Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down


to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.


(cid:127) Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.


(cid:127) As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There


could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.


(cid:127) You may see highway signs on mountains that


warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.


Winter Driving


Here are some tips for winter driving: (cid:127) Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. (cid:127) You may want to put winter emergency supplies in


your trunk.


Also see Tires on page 5-57.


Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.


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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very careful.


traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution. Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS), you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to turn the TCS off, such as when driving through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle motion at lower speeds. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9, StabiliTrak® System on page 4-11, Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-32, and “Winter Tires” under Tires on page 5-57.


What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least


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Your Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. (cid:127) Allow greater following distance on any


slippery road.


(cid:127) Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine


until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.


If You Are Caught in a Blizzard If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:


Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you have been stopped by the snow.


(cid:127) Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.


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(cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:


Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.


You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.


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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.


If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use caution.


{CAUTION:


If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.


Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission. For more information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-78.


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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. You should turn your traction control system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-37.


Loading Your Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification label.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


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Tire and Loading Information Label


Label Example


A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.


The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-57
and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-65. There is also important loading information on the Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification Label” later in this section. Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.


2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and


passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.


3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and


passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.


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4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of


cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).


5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.


6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from


your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity of your vehicle. If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a Trailer (STS Only) on page 4-40 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.


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Example 1


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = Available Occupant and Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


300 lbs (136 kg)


700 lbs (317 kg)


Example 2


Example 3


Item


Description


Total


Item


Description


Total


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 2 = Subtract Occupant Weight 150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


750 lbs (340 kg)


250 lbs (113 kg)


Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 3 = Subtract Occupant Weight 200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = Available Cargo Weight =


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


1,000 lbs (453 kg)


0 lbs (0 kg)


Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.


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Certification Label


A vehicle specific Certification label is attached to the rear edge of the driver’s door, and tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and tongue weight, if pulling a trailer. The Certification label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this.


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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle. And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Do not carry more than 141 lbs (64 kg) in your trunk.


{CAUTION:


Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.


Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.


If you put things inside your vehicle, like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.


{CAUTION:


Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.


(cid:127) Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly.


(cid:127) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,


inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.


(cid:127) Do not leave an unsecured child restraint


in your vehicle.


(cid:127) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.


Automatic Level Control This feature keeps the rear of your vehicle level as the load changes. It is automatic, you do not need to adjust anything. Towing


Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Service on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see Recreational Vehicle Towing following.


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Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following. Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing: (cid:127) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.


(cid:127) How far will you tow? Some vehicles have


restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.


(cid:127) Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you will want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-24.


If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels


Dinghy Towing Notice: on the ground, the drivetrain components could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section for more information.


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(cid:127) Dolly Towing (Rear-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) (STS Only) Notice: Dolly towing or dinghy towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always tow your vehicle using the dolly towing or dinghy towing procedure listed in this section or put your vehicle on a flatbed truck.


If your vehicle is a rear-wheel drive, it can be towed using a dolly.


To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps: 1. Put the rear wheels on the dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead


position with a clamping device designed for towing.


5. Release the parking brake. Dolly Towing (STS-V) Notice: Dolly towing or dinghy towing your vehicle may cause damage because of reduced ground clearance. Always put your vehicle on a flatbed truck. If you have an STS-V, it can only be towed on a flat-bed trailer. Dolly Towing (All-Wheel-Drive Vehicles) Notice: Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, or even with only two of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle if any of its wheels will be on the ground. If you have an All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicle, it can only be towed on a flat-bed trailer.


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Towing a Trailer (STS Only)


{CAUTION:


If you do not use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.


Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.


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That is the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What is more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. If You Do Decide To Pull a Trailer If you do, here are some important points:


There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. (cid:127) Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch


dealer about sway controls.


(cid:127) (cid:127) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.


(cid:127) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.


Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.


Three important considerations have to do with weight:


the weight of the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires


Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg). These are total maximum weights including the load. But even that can be too heavy. The STS-V is not rated or designed to tow any trailer. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.


4-41


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:


Cadillac Customer Assistance Center Cadillac Motor Car Division P.O. Box 33169
Detroit, MI 48232-5169


In Canada, write to:


General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7


Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.


4-42


If you are using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:


The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


(cid:127) Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-39. Dirt and water can, too.


Trailer Brakes Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.


4-43


(cid:127) Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You will need more passing distance up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.


Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


4-44


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into PARK (P). When parking uphill, turn the wheels away from the curb. When parking downhill, turn the wheels into the curb.


2. Have someone place chocks behind the


trailer wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then shift into


PARK (P) firmly and apply your parking brake.


5. Release the regular brakes.


Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. Climbing grades steeper than four percent at temperatures above 90° F (32° C) with a loaded vehicle and trailer is not recommended. The cooling system may temporarily overheat. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31. Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


4-45


When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you:


start your engine shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store


the chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (do not overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


4-46


(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications ..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning .....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of


Your Vehicle ..............................................5-5
Fuel ................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-6
California Fuel ...............................................5-6
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-7
Filling the Tank ..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-18
Engine Oil Life System ..................................5-24
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-25
Automatic Transmission Fluid .........................5-27
Engine Coolant .............................................5-27
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-31
Engine Overheating .......................................5-31
Overheated Engine Protection


Operating Mode ........................................5-32


Cooling System ............................................5-33
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-40
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-41
Brakes ........................................................5-42
Battery ........................................................5-45
Jump Starting ...............................................5-46
All-Wheel Drive ..............................................5-51
Rear Axle .......................................................5-52
Front Axle ......................................................5-53
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-54
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-54
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-54
Back-Up Lamps ............................................5-54
Windshield Replacement .................................5-56
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-56
Tires ..............................................................5-57
Tire Sidewall Labeling ...................................5-59
Tire Terminology and Definitions .....................5-61
Run-Flat Tires (STS-V) ..................................5-64
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-65
Tire Pressure Monitor System .........................5-67
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-70
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-72
Buying New Tires .........................................5-72
Different Size Tires and Wheels ......................5-74


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-75
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-76
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-76
Tire Chains ..................................................5-78
Lifting Your Vehicle (STS-V) ...........................5-79
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-81
Changing a Flat Tire (STS Only) .....................5-83
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools


(STS Only) ...............................................5-85


Removing the Flat Tire and Installing


the Spare Tire (STS Only) ..........................5-86


Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and


Tools (STS Only) ......................................5-92
Compact Spare Tire (STS Only) .....................5-93
Appearance Care ............................................5-94
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-94
Fabric/Carpet ...............................................5-96
Leather .......................................................5-96
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other


Plastic Surfaces ........................................5-97
Wood Panels ...............................................5-97
Speaker Covers ............................................5-97
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-97
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-97


Washing Your Vehicle ...................................5-98
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .....................5-98
Finish Care ..................................................5-98
Windshield and Wiper Blades .........................5-99
Aluminum or Chrome-Plated Wheels ................5-99
Tires .........................................................5-100
Sheet Metal Damage ...................................5-100
Finish Damage ...........................................5-101
Underbody Maintenance ...............................5-101
Chemical Paint Spotting ...............................5-101
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ................5-102
Vehicle Identification .....................................5-103
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................5-103
Service Parts Identification Label ...................5-103
Electrical System ..........................................5-104
Add-On Electrical Equipment .........................5-104
Headlamp Wiring ........................................5-104
Windshield Wiper Fuses ...............................5-104
Power Windows and Other Power Options ......5-105
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ..........................5-105
Underhood Fuse Block ................................5-106
Rear Underseat Fuse Block ..........................5-110
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-116


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Accessories and Modifications When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety, including such things as, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. Some of these accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not covered by warranty. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories.


California Proposition 65 Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.


5-3


Doing Your Own Service Work


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


(cid:127) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


(cid:127) Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts, and


other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14. Your vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-62. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-16.


5-4


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle. Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-103.


Gasoline Octane If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine (VIN Code 7), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. For best performance or trailer towing, you may choose to use middle grade 89 octane unleaded gasoline. If the octane rating is less than 87, you may notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 4.6L V8 engine (VIN Code A), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. You may also use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced, and you may notice a slight audible knocking noise, commonly referred to as spark knock. If the octane is less than 87, you may notice a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


5-5


If your vehicle has the 4.4L V8 engine (VIN Code D), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher. For best performance, use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 93. In an emergency, you can use regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 or higher. If 87 octane fuel is used, do not perform any aggressive driving maneuvers such as wide open throttle applications. You may also hear audible spark knock during acceleration. Refill your tank with premium fuel as soon as possible to avoid damaging your engine. If you are using gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.


Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5 in Canada. Some gasolines may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). General Motors recommends against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-6
for additional information.


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-67. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations.


5-6


To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also, your GM dealer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and other fuels containing more than 10% ethanol must not be used in vehicles that were not designed for those fuels. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors recommends against the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


5-7


Filling the Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


To open the fuel door, apply pressure in the center of the rear edge of the fuel door and it will pop open. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly counterclockwise. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if the cap is released too soon, it will spring back to the right. While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door.


5-8


{CAUTION:


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any hiss noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill the tank, and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before removing the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-98. When replacing the fuel cap, turn it clockwise until it clicks. Make sure the cap is fully installed. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-67.


The CHECK GAS CAP message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) display if the fuel cap is not reinstalled properly. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-79 for more information.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-67.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


(cid:127) Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


(cid:127) Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed, or on any surface other than the ground. (cid:127) Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


(cid:127) Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:


1. Pull the hood release lever with this symbol on it. It is located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and find the


secondary hood release lever. The lever is located under the front edge of the grille near the center. Move the release lever to the side and raise the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview Your vehicle may be equipped with front compartment underhood sight shields, which surround the vehicle’s engine cover. These sight shields will need to be removed in order to access some of the underhood components in your vehicle. To remove the sight shields, turn the fasteners on each shield to the left until they pop out. Then remove the fasteners and lift the shields up and away from the tower to tower brace.


3.6L V6 Engine


5-12


After you have removed the sight shields (if equipped) on the 3.6L V6 engine, here is what you will see:


A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-106.


B. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.


C. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45. D. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger


Compartment Air Filter on page 3-55.


E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-40.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


G. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-42.


I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-31
and Cooling System on page 5-33.


J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.


5-13


4.6L V8 Engine


5-14


After you have removed the sight shields (if equipped) on the 4.6L V8 engine, here is what you will see:


A. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-106.


B. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45. C. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger


Compartment Air Filter on page 3-55.


D. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.


E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-40.


F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


G. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


H. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-42.


I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-31
and Cooling System on page 5-33.


J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.


5-15


4.4L V8 STS-V Engine


5-16


After you have removed the sight shields (if equipped) on the 4.4L V8 STS-V engine, here is what you will see:


A. Battery. See Battery on page 5-45. B. Underhood Fuse Block. See Underhood Fuse Block


on page 5-106.


C. Passenger Compartment Air Filter. See Passenger


Compartment Air Filter on page 3-55.


D. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding


Washer Fluid” under Windshield Washer Fluid on page 5-41.


E. Intercooler System Pressure Cap. See Engine


Coolant on page 5-27.


F. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-40.


G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”


under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


H. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See “Checking


Engine Oil” under Engine Oil on page 5-18.


I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”


under Brakes on page 5-42.


J. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-31
and Cooling System on page 5-33.


K. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-25.


If your vehicle is equipped with front compartment underhood sight shields, before closing the hood be sure to reinstall the sight shields. To reinstall the shields, locate the tabs on the left and right sides and insert them into the openings in the tower to tower brace. Then insert the fasteners into the top of the shield and push the fasteners back into place.


5-17


Engine Oil Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. 1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


When to Add Engine Oil


V6 Engine


V8 Engine


5-18


If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, you will need to add at least one quart/liter of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If the engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, the engine could be damaged.


V6 Engine


V8 Engine


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through.


5-19


What Kind of Engine Oil to Use For V6 Engine Vehicles Only


Look for two things: (cid:127) GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


(cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


5-20


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.


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Look for two things: (cid:127) GM4718M


Your vehicle’s engine requires a special oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M. Oils meeting this standard may be identified as synthetic. However, not all synthetic oils will meet this GM standard. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M.


If you use oils that do not have the


Notice: GM4718M Standard designation, you can cause engine damage not covered by your warranty. (cid:127) SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


For V8 Engine Vehicles Only


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Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle. Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


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Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. Notice: engine uses a special oil filter. The use of any other engine oil filter could lead to filter failure and result in severe engine damage. Damage caused by use of the wrong engine oil filter would not be covered by your new vehicle warranty. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message in the DIC will come on. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-79. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that,


If your vehicle is an STS-V model, the


if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message in the DIC being turned on, reset the system.


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After the oil has been changed, the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message must be reset. To reset the message use the following procedure: 1. Press the up or down arrow to scroll the DIC to


show OIL LIFE.


2. Once the XXX% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is


highlighted, press and hold the RESET button until the percentage shows 100%. If the percentage does not return to 100% or if the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


4.6L V8 Engine shown, 3.6L V6 Engine similar


The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, near the front. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on locating the air cleaner/filter.


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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the filter in the 3.6L V6 or 4.6L V8
engines, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws located on the top of


the cover.


2. Disconnect the coolant recovery hose so that it is


not going across the top of the engine air cleaner/filter.


3. Loosen the clamp and remove the duct from the passenger’s side of the engine air cleaner/filter.


4. The two sides of the airbox are hinged at the bottom. Open the airbox by pushing the top of the airbox cover toward the engine.


5. Remove the air filter by lifting it straight up through


the opening in the airbox.


6. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See


Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-14 for the correct part number for the filter. 7. Reinstall the cover by reversing Steps 1 through 4. If your vehicle has the 4.4L V8 STS-V engine, there is a special procedure for checking and changing the air cleaner/filter. Because this procedure is difficult, you should have this done at the dealership service department. Contact your dealer for additional information or the procedure can be found in the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-14.


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{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-31.


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A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 25,000 miles (41 500 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.


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(cid:127) If you use extra inhibitors and/or additives


If you have to add coolant more than once or twice a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12 for more information. Checking Coolant


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the surge tank. Follow the arrow from the top of the tank down the side to the horizontal mark. If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-79 for more information.


The coolant surge tank and pressure cap are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, toward the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the intercooler fill neck, but only when the engine is cool. See Cooling System on page 5-33 for instructions on how to add coolant to the intercooler fill neck.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing a pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.


Checking Intercooler System Coolant (4.4L V8 STS-V Engine Only)


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the intercooler system pressure cap. Notice: This vehicle has a specific coolant fill procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. Park the vehicle on a level surface and turn off the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD line. The FULL COLD line has an arrow pointing to it.


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Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, Notice: coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating You will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT IDLE ENGINE, an ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE and a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-79 for more information. There is also a coolant temperature gage and a coolant warning light on the instrument panel. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-67 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-66
for more information.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.


If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting


and fan speed and open the windows, as necessary.


If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.


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If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Should an overheated engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. A low coolant and/or engine overheat warning will indicate that an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See Engine Oil on page 5-18.

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