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trailer.


4-39


• Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-35. Dirt and water can, too.


Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.


Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You will find these numbers on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31. Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue. Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow: • The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for


hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.


• If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will


weigh more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you are driving.


4-40


Trailer Brakes Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all. If you tow more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg), use trailer brakes. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with the trailer or from the brake manufacturer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.


Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You will need more passing distance up ahead when you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a good deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.


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Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.


Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.


4-42


Driving on Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On long uphill grades, reduce speed to 45 to 50 mph (70 to 90 km/h) and avoid prolonged use of SECOND (2) gear and engine speeds above 3800 rpm. Climbing grades steeper than four percent at temperatures above 90° F (32° C) with a loaded vehicle and trailer is not recommended. The cooling system may temporarily overheat. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26.


Parking on Hills


{CAUTION:


You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.


But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into


PARK (P).


2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer


wheels.


3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.


4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then shift into


PARK (P) firmly and apply your parking brake.


5. Release the regular brakes.


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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill: 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down


while you: • start your engine, • shift into a gear, and • make sure the parking brake has released.


2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the


chocks.


Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you are pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (do not overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-26.


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Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Service ............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work .........................5-3
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your


Vehicle ......................................................5-4
Fuel ................................................................5-4
Gasoline Octane ............................................5-4
Gasoline Specifications ....................................5-5
California Fuel ...............................................5-5
Additives .......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries ...............................5-6
Filling Your Tank ............................................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container .....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood ....................5-10
Hood Release ..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview .......................5-12
Engine Oil ...................................................5-13
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................5-18
Automatic Transaxle Fluid ..............................5-20
Engine Coolant .............................................5-23
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-26
Engine Overheating .......................................5-26
Cooling System ............................................5-29
Power Steering Fluid .....................................5-36
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-37


Brakes ........................................................5-38
Battery ........................................................5-41
Jump Starting ...............................................5-43
Headlamp Aiming ...........................................5-49
Headlamp Horizontal Aiming ...........................5-51
Headlamp Vertical Aiming ..............................5-51
Bulb Replacement ..........................................5-53
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting ............5-53
Halogen Bulbs ..............................................5-54
Headlamps ..................................................5-54
Front Turn Signal Lamps ...............................5-57
Center High-Mounted


Stoplamp (CHMSL) ....................................5-58
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps ...................5-58
Replacement Bulbs .......................................5-59
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ..............5-60
Tires ..............................................................5-61
Inflation - Tire Pressure .................................5-68
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation .....................5-69
Tire Inspection and Rotation ...........................5-71
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-72
Buying New Tires .........................................5-73
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ..........................5-74


5-1


Section 5


Service and Appearance Care


Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ..................5-75
Wheel Replacement ......................................5-75
Tire Chains ..................................................5-77
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................5-77
Changing a Flat Tire .....................................5-78
Compact Spare Tire ......................................5-87
Appearance Care ............................................5-87
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle .................5-88
Care of Safety Belts ......................................5-90
Weatherstrips ...............................................5-90
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle ..............5-90
Sheet Metal Damage .....................................5-92
Finish Damage .............................................5-92
Underbody Maintenance ................................5-93


Chemical Paint Spotting .................................5-93
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ..................5-94
Vehicle Identification ......................................5-95
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) .................5-95
Service Parts Identification Label .....................5-95
Electrical System ............................................5-96
Add-On Electrical Equipment ..........................5-96
Headlamp Wiring ..........................................5-96
Windshield Wiper Fuses ................................5-96
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-96
Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................5-97
Removing the Rear Seat Cushion ...................5-99
Capacities and Specifications ........................5-104


5-2


Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:


Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you will want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-12. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-50. You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Maintenance Record on page 6-14.


{CAUTION:


You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.


• Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,


experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


5-3


CAUTION:


(Continued)


• Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and


other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.


Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.


Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of your vehicle.


Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. However, for best performance and for trailer towing, you may wish to use middle grade or premium unleaded gasoline. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine.


5-4


Gasoline Specifications It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by automobile manufacturers around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel Charter which is available from the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.


In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.


California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-46 ) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.


Canada Only


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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.


Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you will be driving.


Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of gasoline. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage would not be covered under your warranty.


5-6


Filling Your Tank


{CAUTION:


Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to you and others, read and follow all the instructions on the pump island. Turn off your engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump unattended when refueling your vehicle — this is against the law in some places. Keep children away from the fuel pump; never let children pump fuel.


The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.


The fuel door release button is located on the left side of the instrument panel below the exterior lamp control.


5-7


To open the fuel door, press the fuel door release button upward. The vehicle must be in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and the valet lockout button must be in OFF.


An alternate fuel door release strap is located inside the trunk on the driver’s side of the vehicle.


Pull the strap to release the fuel door.


While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether from the hook on the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.


5-8


{CAUTION:


The CHECK GAS CAP message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on if the fuel cap is not properly reinstalled.


If you spill fuel and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.


{CAUTION:


If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by shutting off the pump or by notifying the station attendant. Leave the area immediately.


Be careful not to spill fuel. Do not top off or overfill your tank, and wait a few seconds after you have finished pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-90. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-46.


If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get


Notice: the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-46.


5-9


Filling a Portable Fuel Container


{CAUTION:


Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:


• Dispense gasoline only into approved


containers.


• Do not fill a container while it is inside a


vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. • Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the


inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.


• Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.


Checking Things Under the Hood


{CAUTION:


An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


{CAUTION:


Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.


5-10


Hood Release To lift the hood, use the following steps:


1. Pull the lever inside the


vehicle to open the hood. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.


2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and find the secondary hood release which is located below the front grille.


3. Move the release lever to the left as you raise


the hood.


Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.


5-11


Engine Compartment Overview When you open the hood, you will see:


5-12


A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See Windshield


Washer Fluid on page 5-37.


B. Underhood Fuse Block. See “Underhood Fuse


Block” Fuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-97.


C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See Power Steering


Fluid on page 5-36.


D. Engine Oil Fill Location. See Engine Oil on


page 5-13.


E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. F. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See Brakes


on page 5-38.


G. Transaxle Fluid Cap and Dipstick. See Automatic


Transaxle Fluid on page 5-20.


H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See Engine Air


Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.


I. Engine Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap. See


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-26
and Cooling System on page 5-29.


Engine Oil


If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see “CHECK OIL LEVEL” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder. Checking Engine Oil It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground. The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil dipstick. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.


5-13


Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the engine oil fill cap.


Turn the cap counterclockwise to remove it. Be sure to add enough oil to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you are through. What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Look for two things: • GM6094M


Your vehicle’s engine requires oil meeting GM Standard GM6094M. You should look for and use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M.


When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you will need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This section explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5-104. Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.


5-14


• SAE 5W-30


As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F (–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available, you may use SAE 10W-30. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50.


Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this information on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.


5-15


Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


When to Change Engine Oil (GM Oil Life System) Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level. If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed.


5-16


How to Reset the CHANGE ENGINE OIL Message The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) being turned on, reset the system. After the oil has been changed, the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message must be reset. To reset the message, do the following: 1. Turn the key to the ON position without starting the


engine.


2. Press the INFO button on the Driver Information


Center (DIC) until ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed.


3. Press and hold the INFO RESET button until 100%


ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed. This resets the oil life indicator.


4. Turn the key to OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


The percentage of oil life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO button until ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed on the DIC. For more information on the oil life indicator, see Oil Life Indicator on page 3-74. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


5-17


Engine Air Cleaner/Filter See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for location of the engine air cleaner/filter.


How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the filter, do the following:


1. Loosen the air duct


clamp, which is located at the mass airflow sensor end of the air duct.


When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at every oil change and replace at the first oil change after 25,000 miles (40 000 km).


2. Disconnect the air duct from the mass airflow


sensor.


5-18


3. Unhook both of the engine air cleaner/filter cover


latches.


4. Move the cover out of the way.


5. Take out the engine air cleaner/filter and


remove any loose debris that may be found lying in the base.


6. Install a new air filter element. See Normal


Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13 for the proper type.


5-19


Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: • In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature


regularly reaches 90° F (32° C) or higher.


• In hilly or mountainous terrain. • When doing frequent trailer towing. • Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery


service.


If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require change until the message CHANGE TRANS FLUID appears on the Driver Information Center. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.


Follow these steps to reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter assembly: 1. Slide the cover into the slots in the bottom of


the base.


2. Close the cover and make sure that both latches


are secure and fully engaged.


3. Reinstall the clean air duct over the mass airflow sensor. Make sure that the duct is secure around the entire outer edge of the sensor.


4. Tighten the air duct clamp.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can


Notice: cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


5-20


How to Check Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check the transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving: • When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). • At high speed for quite a while. • In heavy traffic – especially in hot weather. • While pulling a trailer.


To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180° F to 200° F (82° C to 93° C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50° F (10° C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you may have to drive longer. Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows: • Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine


running.


• With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever


in PARK (P).


• With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).


• Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.


5-21


Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:


The transaxle fluid cap is located next to the radiator hose and below the engine air cleaner/filter assembly in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.


1. After removing the engine air cleaner/filter assembly


to reach the transaxle fluid cap, turn the cap counterclockwise to remove. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.


2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and


then pull it back out again.


5-22


3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the


lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area.


4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the


dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter assembly.


How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick. 1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the


dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It does not take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.


Notice: Use of automatic transaxle fluid labeled other than DEXRON®-III may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEXRON®-III labeled automatic transaxle fluid. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as


described under How to Check.


4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the


dipstick back in all the way and turn the handle clockwise. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter assembly.


How to Reset the Transaxle Fluid Change Indicator Once the transaxle fluid has been changed, the transaxle fluid change indicator must be reset. Use the following steps to reset the indicator: 1. Press the INFO button on the Driver Information


Center (DIC) until TRANS FLUID LIFE is displayed. 2. Press and hold the INFO RESET button until 100%


is displayed.


The indicator is now reset. The percentage of transaxle fluid life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO button several times until the TRANS FLUID LIFE message appears.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-26.


5-23


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: • Give freezing protection down to −34° F (−37° C). • Give boiling protection up to 265° F (129° C). • Protect against rust and corrosion. • Help keep the proper engine temperature. • Let the warning lights and gages work as they


should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


5-24


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


If you use an improper coolant mixture,


Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.


If you use the proper coolant, you do not


Checking Coolant


The engine coolant surge tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD mark, which is at or above the fill mark at the forward edge of the surge tank.


If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you are low on engine coolant.


5-25


Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight.


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.


Engine Overheating You will find an ENGINE COOLANT HOT, IDLE ENGINE message or an ENGINE OVERHEATED, STOP ENGINE message displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). You will also hear a chime. There is also an engine temperature warning light and/or gage on the instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-45 and Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-45. Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode If an overheated engine condition exists and the message ENGINE OVERHEATED, STOP ENGINE is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km). Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.


5-26


Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-26
for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If your engine catches fire because you


Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” under Engine Overheating on page 5-26 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a low coolant message, can indicate a serious problem. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55. If you get an engine overheat warning with no low coolant message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: • Climb a long hill on a hot day. • Stop after high-speed driving. • Idle for long periods in traffic. • Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)


while stopped. If it safe to do so, pull of the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Set the temperature control to the highest heat


setting and open the windows, as necessary.


5-28


Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.


A. Coolant Surge Tank with Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans


5-29


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


A low coolant level should be indicated by a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message on the Driver Information Center. If it is, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.


5-30


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL®(silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at or above the fill mark at the forward edge of the surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-23
for more information.


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If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows:


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


5-32


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and crack


Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


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3. Then fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture, to or above the fill mark at the forward edge of the surge tank.


1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise (left) until it first stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


2. Press down on the pressure cap and keep turning it


slowly. Remove the cap.


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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start


the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches at or above the fill mark at the forward edge of the surge tank.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.


Start the engine and allow it to warm up. If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message does not appear on the Driver Information Center, coolant is at the proper fill level. If a CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message does appear, repeat Steps 1 to 3 and reinstall the pressure cap or see your dealer.


5-35


Power Steering Fluid


The power steering fluid reservoir is located next to the underhood fuse block on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-36


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Notice: • When using concentrated washer fluid, follow


the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


• Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.


Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


• Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters


full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


• Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When your vehicle’s windshield washer fluid level becomes low, a CHECK WASHER FLUID message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC). You will need to add fluid soon.


The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located next to the underhood fuse block on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.


5-37


Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,


5-38


the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


If the ignition is in ON and the brake fluid is low, the CHECK BRAKE FLUID message will be displayed in the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-55.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: • Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.


• If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted


surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-87.


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.


Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


5-40


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco® battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery.


Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. The battery is located under the rear seat cushion. To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion”. You do not need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See Jump Starting on page 5-43.


{CAUTION:


A battery that is not properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.


5-41


Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive you vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-43 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3-99. To re-program the power windows, see Power Windows on page 2-17.


To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).


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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


• They contain acid that can burn you. • They contain gas that can explode or


• They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in costly


Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.


1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt


battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt


Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle in PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


If you leave your radio or other accessories


Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!


5-43


You will not see the battery of your vehicle under the hood. It is located under the rear passenger’s seat. You will not need to access the battery for jump starting. The remote positive (+) terminal is for that purpose.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and


negative (−) terminal locations on the other vehicle. Your vehicle has a remote (+) jump starting terminal and a remote negative (−) jump starting terminal. You should always use these remote terminals instead of the terminals on the battery. The remote positive (+) terminal is located in the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. A second remote positive (+) terminal is located on the rear underseat fuse block. Lift the red plastic cap to access the terminal.


The remote negative (−) terminal is located near the power steering fluid reservoir. It is marked “GND (−).” See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.


5-44


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the ACDelco® battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or


missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could also be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to the negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


5-45


6. Connect the red


positive (+) cable to the remote positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other


end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


8. Now connect the black


negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location of the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.


Do not let the other end of the cable touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


5-46


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) terminal marked GND (−).


11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it


will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


If the jumper cables are removed in the


Notice: wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run


the engine for a while.


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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other


vehicle.


5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its


original position.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote


Negative (−) Terminals


C. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote


Negative (−) Terminal (GND)


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Headlamp Aiming


Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.


If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.


5-49


The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: • The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are


25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.


• The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.


• The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular


to the wall or other flat surface.


• The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud


attached to it.


• The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.


• The vehicle should be normally loaded with a


full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat.


• Tires should be properly inflated. • Start the vehicle and rock it to level the suspension. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly.


5-50


The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.


If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx ® socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.


Headlamp Horizontal Aiming


Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.


Headlamp Vertical Aiming Notice: Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim. 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low


beam lamps.


Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.


2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each low beam lamp. Record this distance.


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3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.


4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.


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5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the


headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.


High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting


6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5


for the opposite headlamp.


{CAUTION:


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulb, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-59. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.


Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.


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Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Headlamps 1. Open the hood. 2. Remove the upper filler panel by loosening all the


screws and then removing the grommets.


3. Remove the two bolts fastening the headlamp to


the headlamp mounting bracket.


4. Pull the headlamp straight forward to disengage the


locator pin at the outboard edge of the headlamp.


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5. To replace the low-beam bulb, first remove the rubber housing cover on the rear of the lamp.


6. Then, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to


unlock the socket from the lamp housing.


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7. Remove the headlamp bulb socket.


8. After removing the wiring harness connector from


the headlamp bulb socket, replace the bulb assembly. Reconnect it to the wiring harness and reinstall the headlamp bulb assembly back into the headlamp housing.


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9. After reinstalling the bulb and socket, reinstall the


rubber cover. Make sure it fully covers the headlamp socket.


10. To replace the high-beam bulb, turn the bulb socket


counterclockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing. Follow the instructions in Step 6 through 8 to install the new bulb.


11. Reinstall the upper filler panel by inserting the


grommets, along with the screws, back into the holes.


Front Turn Signal Lamps 1. The turn signal lamps are located on the outboard


side of the headlamps. To access, remove the headlamp. See Steps 1, 2, 3, and 10 under Headlamps on page 5-54.


2. Press the bulb socket tab and turn the bulb socket


counterclockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing.


3. To remove the old bulb, grasp the socket firmly and


pull the bulb out.


4. Install the new bulb and reverse the steps to


reinstall the lamp housing.


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Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) It is recommended that this component be replaced as a unit. See your dealer.


Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps 1. Open the trunk to gain access to the lamp housing.


2. Remove the rear


compartment sill plate by removing the upper convenience net retainers, located at each end, as shown.


3. Move the spare tire cover out of the way. 4. Pull the trunk trim away to access the wing nuts.


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5. Remove the three wing nuts that fasten the taillamp


to the body.


6. Gently remove the taillamp from the body. The taillamp is on the bottom of the housing and the rear turn signal lamp is on the upper part of the housing.


Replacement Bulbs For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer. Exterior Lamp Front Turn Signal Headlamps, Composite


Bulb Number 2357NA


High Beam Low Beam


9005HB3
9006HB4


Rear Turn Signal Stop/Taillamp


3057
3057


7. Press the bulb socket tab and turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it. To remove the bulb, grasp the socket firmly and pull the bulb out. Once you have replaced the burned-out bulb, reverse the steps to reassemble the lamp assembly.


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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected each time maintenance is performed. See Wiper Blade Check under Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. To replace the wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper up from the windshield and set into the


vertically-locked position.


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2. Press the tab that holds the wiper blade to the arm. 3. Slide the blade down and off the arm. 4. Slide in the new blade and snap into place.


Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.


{CAUTION:


• Poorly maintained and improperly used


tires are dangerous.


• Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


• Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.


• Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact— such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


• Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If


your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. See “Inflation – Tire Pressure” in this section for inflation pressure adjustment for higher speed driving.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger car tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


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(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


Passenger Car Tire Example


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(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For more information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-68 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


Compact Spare Tire Example


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(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-77.


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-68.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter “T” as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(G) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-87 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-31.


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Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger car tire size.


(A) P-Metric Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is “70,” as shown in item “C” of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 70% as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D” means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and the speed rating of a tire. The load range represents the load carrying capacity a tire is

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