2006 Cadillac Escalade Owners Manual

positive (+) or to a remote positive terminal (+) if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal, if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.

{CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) terminal is marked GND.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for awhile.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If

it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

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If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

5. Return the positive (+) remote terminal cover, if

equipped, to its original position.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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How to Check Lubricant

All-Wheel Drive Transfer Case Be sure to perform the lubricant checks described in this section. There are two additional systems that need lubrication. When to Check Lubricant Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

(A) Drain Plug (B) Filler Plug

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the transfer case, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use care not to overtighten the plug.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. All axle assemblies are filled by volume of fluid during production. They are not filled to reach a certain level. When checking the fluid level on any axle, variations in the readings can be caused by factory fill differences between the minimum and the maximum fluid volume. Also, if a vehicle has just been driven before checking the fluid level, it may appear lower than normal because fluid has traveled out along the axle tubes and has not drained back to the sump area. Therefore, a reading taken five minutes after the vehicle has been driven will appear to have a lower fluid level than a vehicle that has been stationary for an hour or two. Remember that the rear axle assembly must be supported to get a true reading.

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How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. The proper level is from 5/8 inch to 1-5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

Front Axle When to Check and Change Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check front axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the front axle, you may need to add some lubricant: (cid:127) When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant

to raise the level from 1/2 inch (12 mm) to about 5/8 inch (18 mm) below the filler plug hole.

(cid:127) When the differential is at operating temperature

(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

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Headlamp Aiming

Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales. If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.

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Notice: To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inflated.

(cid:127) Start the vehicle and rock it to level the suspension. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.

Headlamp Horizontal Aiming Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.

If you believe your headlamps need horizontal (H) (left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (V) (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure. Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx® socket or T15 Torx® screwdriver.

Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.

5-47

Headlamp Vertical Aiming Notice: Horizontal aiming must be performed before making any adjustments to the vertical aim. Adjusting the vertical aim first will result in an incorrect headlamp aim. To adjust the headlamp veritcal aiming, do the following:

3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.

4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp.

1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low beam lamps. 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim

dot on each low beam lamp. Record this distance.

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Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-56. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

{CAUTION:

5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (V) until the

headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.

6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp.

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

5-49

Headlamps

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp

D. High-Beam Headlamp

B. Daytime Running

E. Front Parking/Turn

Lamp (DRL)

C. Sidemarker Lamp

Signal Lamp

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To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood of the vehicle. See Hood Release

on page 5-9 for more information.

2. Pry up the eight fastener plugs on the radiator

cover and pull the fasteners out.

3. Lift off the radiator cover.

4. Pull the top left or right corner of the grill out so the

clips release. This will give you the needed clearance for removing the headlamp assembly.

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5. Remove the horizontal pin from the headlamp assembly by lifting the end of the pin upward until it unsnaps and then pulling it toward the center of the vehicle.

6. Remove the vertical pin from the headlamp

assembly by turning the end of the pin away from you until it unsnaps and then pulling it upward.

7. Remove the headlamp assembly by lifting it up and

then pulling it out and away from the front of the vehicle.

8. Disconnect the electrical connector from the lower

corner of the headlamp assembly. This will give you better access to the headlamp assembly.

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9. Remove the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap of the affected bulb from the headlamp assembly.

10. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and remove it with the old bulb from the headlamp assembly.

11. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb. 12. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb,

using care not to touch the bulb with your hands, fingers or anything damp or oily.

13. Place the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle,

being sure to align the lower locator tab with the pocket on the vehicle (see arrow). Push the headlamp assembly straight in and then down into position.

14. Install the two pins and snap the ends into their

locked position.

15. Reinstall the grille and radiator cover by reversing

the removal procedure described previously.

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Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime Running Lamps

To replace a front turn signal, sidemarker or DRL bulb, do the following: 1. Remove the headlamp assembly as described

previously. See Headlamps on page 5-50 for more information.

2. Remove the rubber, circular-shaped bulb cap for

the affected bulb from the headlamp assembly.

3. Press the locking release lever, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it from the headlamp assembly. (There is no lock for the sidemarker lamp.)

4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket. 5. Put the new bulb into the bulb socket. 6. Put the bulb socket into the turn signal housing and

turn it clockwise until it locks. (There is no lock for the sidemarker lamp.)

7. Reverse the steps to reinstall.

A. Low-Beam Headlamp

D. High-Beam Headlamp

B. Daytime Running

E. Front Parking/Turn

Lamp (DRL)

C. Sidemarker Lamp

Signal Lamp

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Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps

A. Turn Signal/Taillamp B. Stoplamp/Taillamp C. Back-up Lamp D. Sidemarker Lamp

To replace one of these bulbs, do the following:

1. Remove the

two screws from the taillamp assembly.

2. Remove the taillamp assembly. 3. Press the release tab and turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the taillamp assembly. The sidemarker lamp does not have a release tab.

4. Pull the bulb straight out from the socket. 5. Install a new bulb into the socket and insert it into

the taillamp assembly

6. Turn the bulb socket clockwise until it clicks. The sidemarker lamp does not have a release tab and therefore will not click when it is installed.

7. Reinstall the taillamp assembly and tighten the

screws.

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Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-up Lamp, Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamp and Taillamp Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Front Turn Signal Lamps High-Beam Headlamp Sidemarker Lamp

3157K

4114K 3157AK 9005 or 9005 LL 194

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear and cracking. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4
for more information. Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15.

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To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly do the following: 1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.

{CAUTION:

Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,

punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

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2. Push the release lever (B) to disengage the hook and push the wiper arm (A) out of the blade (C). 3. Push the new wiper blade securely on the wiper

arm until you hear the release lever click into place. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

20-Inch Tires If your vehicle has the optional 20-inch P275/55R20
size tires, they are classified as touring tires and are designed for on road use. The low-profile, wide tread design is not recommended for off-road driving. See Off-Road Driving on page 4-17, for additional information.

Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into the sidewall. The following illustrations are examples of a typical P-Metric and a LT-Metric tire sidewall.

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Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information, see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74.

(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used in a dual configuration. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

(D) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load when used as a single. For information on recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

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Tire Size The following examples show the different parts of a tire size.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letters LT as the first two characters in the tire size means a light truck tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.

(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.

(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 75, as shown in item C of the light truck (LT-Metric) tire illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 75% as high as it is wide.

(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: The service description indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

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Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64.

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Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.

Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.

Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71.

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UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-74.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46.

Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door lock post (striker). This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and their recommended cold tire inflation pressures. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the spare tire. For additional information regarding the spare tire, see Spare Tire on page 5-97.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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High Speed Operation

{CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

If your vehicle has P265/70R17 AL2 or P275/55R20 AL2
size tires and you will be driving at high speeds, speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following.

When you end this high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs) 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa).

Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted on each tire and wheel assembly, except the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in your vehicle’s tires and transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. The TPMS is designed to alert the driver, if a low tire pressure condition exists. This system also allows the driver to check tire pressure levels using the Driver Information Center (DIC).

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When a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS displays the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message on the DIC, and at the same time illuminates the low tire pressure warning symbol. For additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays see DIC Operation and Displays on page 3-50 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-54. You may notice, during cooler weather conditions, that the tire pressure monitor light, located on the instrument panel cluster, and the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will appear when the vehicle is first started and then turn off as you start to drive the vehicle. This could be an early indicator that the tire pressures are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper inflation pressure for those tires.)

As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

Accordingly, When the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. The CHECK TIRE PRESSURE warning message and low tire pressure light (telltale) will appear at each ignition cycle until the tires are inflated to the correct inflation pressure.

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You will have one minute to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than one minute, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN with the engine off. 3. Turn the headlamp switch from off to the parking lamps setting four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light will begin to flash. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicate that the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing throughout the matching procedure. The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC). 4. Start with the driver’s side front tire.

The Tire and Loading Information label (tire information placard) shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the correct inflation pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64. For the location of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46. Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-70 and Tires on page 5-57. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. Resetting the TPMS Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires or replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. Each tire/wheel position is matched to a sensor, by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: LF TIRE (left front tire on the driver’s side of the vehicle), RF TIRE (right front tire on the passengers side of the vehicle), RR TIRE (right rear tire on the passengers side of the vehicle), and LR TIRE (left rear tire on the driver’s side of the vehicle).

5-68

5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, you will need to start over with Step 1. To let air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage or a key.

6. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and repeat the

procedure in Step 5.

9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the left rear tire, check to see if the TPMS warning light is still flashing. If it is, turn the ignition switch to LOCK to exit the sensor matching process. If the TPMS warning light is not flashing, the five minute time limit has passed and you will need to start the process over beginning with Step 1.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE message will be displayed on the DIC screen. This message should go off once you re-install the road tire containing the TPMS sensor. The SERVICE TIRE MONITOR message is displayed when the TPMS is malfunctioning. One or more missing or inoperable TPMS sensors will cause the service tire monitor message to be displayed. See your dealer for service. Federal Communications Commission (FCC) and Industry and Science Canada The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause harmful interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

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The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) operates on a radio frequency and complies with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-71 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-76 for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the ratchet/wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78.

5-70

The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

When rotating your vehicle’s tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. Do not include the spare tire in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64, for more information.

Vehicles that have the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) will need to have the TPMS sensors reset after a tire rotation. See “TPMS Sensor Identification Codes” under Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-66. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control, and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-58 for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size, brand, and type tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a different size spare than the road tires (those originally installed on your vehicle). When new, your vehicle included a spare tire and wheel assembly with a similar overall diameter as your vehicle’s road tires and wheels, so it is all right to drive on it. Because this spare was developed for use on your vehicle, it will not affect vehicle handling.

5-72

{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles that have a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-66. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 5-72 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

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Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance, and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-78 for more information.

5-76

Used Replacement Wheels

Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

5-77

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use the jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning flashers. See Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6 for more information.

5-78

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the

vehicle.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

When your vehicle has a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

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Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

Regular Models - Rear Access Panel

A. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

B. Tool Kit and

Jack Tools

C. Wing Nut Retaining

Wheel Blocks

D. Wheel Blocks E. Jack F. Knob

Extended Models

A. Knob B. Removable

Storage Tray

C. Retaining Hook D. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

E. Tool Kit and

Jack Tools

F. Mounting Bracket G. Wing Nut Retaining

Wheel Blocks H. Wheel Blocks I. Jack

5-80

On the regular models, the equipment is located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, behind the left trim panel in the rear of the vehicle. Unlatch the release lever to open the trim panel door. Skip the first step and follow the last three. On the extended models, the equipment you will need is under the storage tray on the driver’s side of the vehicle, in the trim panel. 1. Remove the tray to access the tools. 2. Remove the wing nut used to retain the tool kit by

turning it counterclockwise.

3. Turn the knob on the jack counterclockwise to

release the jack from its holder and to lower the jack head.

4. Remove the wheel blocks and the wheel block

retainer by turning the wing nut counterclockwise.

You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.

A. Spare Tire

(Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle

Extensions

J. Spare Tire Lock

(If Equipped)

5-81

1. Open the spare tire lock cover on the bumper and

use the ignition key to remove the lock if your vehicle is equipped with a spare tire lock (J).

3. Insert the spare tire

end (open end) (F) of the extension through the hole (G) in the rear bumper.

2. Assemble the wheel wrench (H) and the two jack

handle extensions (I) as shown.

Be sure the hoist end of the extension connects to the hoist shaft (E). The ribbed square end of the extension is used to lower the spare tire.

4. Turn the wheel wrench (H) counterclockwise to lower the spare tire to the ground. Continue to turn the wheel wrench until the spare tire can be pulled out from under the vehicle. If the spare tire does not lower to the ground, the secondary latch is engaged causing the tire not to lower. See Secondary Latch System on page 5-89.

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5. Use the wheel wrench hook that allows you to pull the hoist cable towards you to assist in reaching the spare tire.

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire Use the following pictures and instructions to remove the flat tire and raise the vehicle.

6. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable when the tire has been lowered, so it can be pulled up through the wheel opening.

7. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

The tools you will be using include the jack (A), the wheel blocks (B), the jack handle (C), the jack handle extensions (D), and the wheel wrench (E).

5-83

1. Remove the center cap by placing the chisel end of

the wheel wrench in the slot on the wheel and gently pry the cap out.

2. Use the wheel wrench to loosen all the wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen the wheel nuts. Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

5-84

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Jack Positions (Overall View)

A. Front Position B. Rear Position

3. Position the jack under the vehicle as shown in

this step.

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

5-85

Rear Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a rear tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle and both jack handle extensions. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extensions. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Use the jacking pad provided on the rear axle.

Rear Position

Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

Front Position

Front Tire Flat: If the flat tire is on a front tire of the vehicle, you will need to use the jack handle (C) and only one jack handle extension (D). Attach the wheel wrench to the jack handle extension. Attach the jack handle to the jack. Position the jack on the frame behind the flat tire where the frame sections overlap. Turn the wheel wrench clockwise to raise the vehicle. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to clear the ground.

5-86

4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5. Remove any rust or dirt

from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

{CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.

5-87

6. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare. Tighten each wheel nut by hand. Then use the wheel wrench to tighten the nuts until the wheel is held against the hub.

7. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the vehicle. Lower the jack completely.

{CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116 for wheel nut torque specification.

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead

Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification. See Capacities and Specifications on page 5-116 for the wheel nut torque specification.

8. Tighten the nuts firmly

in a crisscross sequence as shown by turning the wheel wrench clockwise.

When you reinstall the regular wheel and tire, you must also reinstall the center cap. Place the cap on the wheel and tap it into place until it seats flush with the wheel. The cap only goes on one way. Be sure to line up the tab on the center cap with the indentation on the wheel.

5-88

Secondary Latch System Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist assembly equipped with a secondary latch system. It is designed to stop the spare tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle. For the secondary latch to work, the spare must be installed with the valve stem pointing down. See Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-92.

{CAUTION:

Before beginning this procedure read all the instructions. Failure to read and follow the instructions could damage the hoist assembly and you and others could get hurt. Read and follow the instructions listed below.

To release the spare tire from the secondary latch, do the following:

1. Check under the

vehicle to see if the cable end is visible. If the cable is not visible proceed to Step 6.

2. If it is visible, first try to tighten the cable by turning

the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

3. Loosen the cable by turning the wrench

counterclockwise three or four turns.

4. Repeat this procedure at least two times. If the

spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with Step 5 of Removing the Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-80.

5-89

5. If the spare does not lower, turn the wrench

counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.

6. Stand the wheel blocks on their shortest ends, with

the backs facing each other.

7. Place the bottom edge

of the jack (A) on the wheel blocks (B), separating them so that the jack is balanced securely.

5-90

8. Attach the jack handle, extension, and wheel

wrench to the jack and place it (with the wheel blocks) under the vehicle toward the front of the rear bumper.

{CAUTION:

Someone standing too close during the procedure could be injured by the jack. If the spare tire does not slide off the jack completely, make sure no one is behind you or on either side of you as you pull the jack out from the spare.

13. Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and

carefully remove the jack. Use one hand to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire with the other hand. If the spare tire is hanging from the cable, insert the hoist handle, extension and wheel wrench into the hoist shaft hole in the bumper and turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare the rest of the way.

5-91

9. Position the center lift point of the jack under the

center of the spare tire.

10. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it

lifts the end fitting.

11. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops

moving upward and is held firmly in place. The secondary latch has released and the spare tire is balancing on the jack.

12. Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench

counterclockwise. Keep lowering the jack until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.

14. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

{CAUTION:

15. Turn the wheel wrench in the hoist shaft hole in the bumper clockwise to raise the cable back up if the cable is hanging under the vehicle.

Have the hoist assembly inspected as soon as you can. You will not be able to store a spare or flat tire using the hoist assembly until it has been replaced. To continue changing the flat tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-83.

Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

Notice: Storing an aluminum wheel with a flat tire under your vehicle for an extended period of time or with the valve stem pointing up may damage the wheel. Always stow the wheel with the valve stem pointing down and have the wheel/tire repaired as soon as possible.

5-92

Store the tire under the rear of the vehicle in the spare tire carrier. Use the art and text following to help you:

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle with the valve stem pointed down, and to the rear.

2. Tilt the retainer

downward and through the wheel opening. Make sure the retainer is fully seated across the underside of the wheel.

A. Spare Tire

(Valve Stem Pointed Down) B. Hoist Assembly C. Hoist Cable D. Tire Retainer E. Hoist Shaft F. Hoist End of

Extension Tool

G. Hoist Shaft

Access Hole

H. Wheel Wrench I. Jack Handle

Extensions

J. Spare Tire Lock

(If Equipped)

3. Attach the wheel wrench (H) and extensions (I)

together.

5-93

4. Insert the hoist end (F) through the hole (G) in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

5. Raise the tire part way upward. Make sure the

retainer is seated in the wheel opening.

6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten the cable.

7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull (A),

and then try to turn (B) the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

8. Reinstall the spare tire lock (if equipped).

5-94

Regular Models - Rear Access Panel

A. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

B. Jack Tools C. Wing Nut Retaining

Wheel Blocks

D. Wheel Blocks E. Jack F. Knob

1. Put the jack tools (B), in the tool bag and place in

the retaining clip above the jack (E). 2. Tighten down with the wing nut (A). 3. Assemble the wheel blocks (D) and jack (E) together with the wing nut (D) and knob (F).

4. Position the jack storage cover in the left rear side panel and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket.

5-95

1. Return the jack tools (E), to the tool bag. 2. Assemble wheel blocks (H) and jack (I) together

with the wing nut (G) and retaining hook (C).

3. Position under the jack storage tray (B) in the left rear side panel below the wheelbase and tighten, adjusting clockwise until the jack is secured tight in the mounting bracket. Be sure to position the holes in the base of the jack onto the pin in the mounting bracket.

4. Use the retaining clip to fasten the tool kit on the

stud in the storage compartment in the rear left trim panel and turn the wing nut clockwise to secure.

5. Return the storage tray (B) to its original location.

Extended Models

A. Knob B. Removable

Storage Tray

E. Jack Tools F. Mounting Bracket G. Wing Nut Retaining

C. Retaining Hook D. Retaining Bracket

and Wing Nut

Wheel Blocks H. Wheel Blocks I. Jack

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Spare Tire Your vehicle, when new, had a fully-inflated spare tire. A spare tire may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-64 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-46
for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire on page 5-83 and Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools on page 5-92. After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again. Your vehicle may have a different size spare tire than the road tires, those originally installed on your vehicle. This spare tire was developed for use on your vehicle, so it is all right to drive on it.

Appearance Care

Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle Your vehicle’s interior will continue to look its best if it is cleaned often. Although not always visible, dust and dirt can accumulate on your upholstery. Dirt can damage carpet, fabric, leather, and plastic surfaces. Regular vacuuming is recommended to remove particles from your upholstery. It is important to keep your upholstery from becoming and remaining heavily soiled. Soils should be removed as quickly as possible. Your vehicle’s interior may experience extremes of heat that could cause stains to set rapidly. Lighter colored interiors may require more frequent cleaning. Use care because newspapers and garments that transfer color to your home furnishings may also transfer color to your vehicle’s interior. When cleaning your vehicle’s interior, only use cleaners specifically designed for the surfaces being cleaned. Permanent damage may result from using cleaners on surfaces for which they were not intended. Use glass cleaner only on glass. Remove any accidental over-spray from other surfaces immediately. To prevent over-spray, apply cleaner directly to the cleaning cloth.

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If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning

Notice: glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch the glass and/or cause damage to the integrated radio antenna and the rear window defogger. When cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft cloth and glass cleaner. Many cleaners contain solvents that may become concentrated in your vehicle’s breathing space. Before using cleaners, read and adhere to all safety instructions on the label. While cleaning your vehicle’s interior, maintain adequate ventilation by opening your vehicle’s doors and windows. Dust may be removed from small buttons and knobs using a small brush with soft bristles. Your GM dealer has a product for cleaning your vehicle’s glass. Should it become necessary, you can also obtain a product from your GM dealer to remove odors from your vehicle’s upholstery.

Do not clean your vehicle using the following cleaners or techniques: (cid:127) Never use a knife or any other sharp object to

remove a soil from any interior surface.

(cid:127) Never use a stiff brush. It can cause damage to

your vehicle’s interior surfaces.

(cid:127) Never apply heavy pressure or rub aggressively

with a cleaning cloth. Use of heavy pressure can damage your interior and does not improve the effectiveness of soil removal.

(cid:127) Use only mild, neutral-pH soaps. Avoid laundry

detergents or dishwashing soaps with degreasers. Using too much soap will leave a residue that leaves streaks and attracts dirt. For liquid cleaners, about 20 drops per gallon (3.78 L) of water is a good guide.

(cid:127) Do not heavily saturate your upholstery while

cleaning.

(cid:127) Damage to your vehicle’s interior may result from the use of many organic solvents such as naptha, alcohol, etc.

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Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used on floor carpet and carpeted floor mats. For soils, always try to remove them first with plain water or club soda. Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as possible using one of the following techniques:

For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel until no more can be removed. For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and then vacuum.

To clean, use the following instructions: 1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or

club soda.

2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture. 3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the

cleaning cloth remains clean.

5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild

soap solution and repeat the cleaning process that was used with plain water.

If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first. If the locally cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation may result, clean the entire surface. After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the fabric or carpet.

Leather A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather. Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather. Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently change the appearance and feel of your leather and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, a clean soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can be used to gently remove dust and dirt. Never use spot lifters or removers on plastic surfaces. Many commercial cleaners and coatings that are sold to preserve and protect soft plastic surfaces may permanently change the appearance and feel of your interior and are not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based products, or those containing organic solvents to clean your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform manner. Some commercial products may increase gloss on your instrument panel. The increase in gloss may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.

Wood Panels Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth.

Speaker Covers Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker will not be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap.

Care of Safety Belts Keep belts clean and dry.

{CAUTION:

Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.

Weatherstrips Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather frequent application may be required. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13.

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Washing Your Vehicle The paint finish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention, and durability. The best way to preserve the vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water. Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun. Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-104. Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter the vehicle.

Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-101.

Finish Care Occasional waxing or mild polishing of the vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-104. Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish on your vehicle. The vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish. Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage the vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter. Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather, and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. To help keep the paint finish looking new, keep the vehicle in a garage or covered whenever possible.