2003 Buick Park Avenue Owners Manual

mountain roads.

0 Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

da

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tces could get

I ,ou don't shift so hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let

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downhill slope.

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(N) or with the

CoasL.3 dow ... Jill in NE - 'RP ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

Know how to go uphill. Drive in the highest gear possible. Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

I nn n t r a r thn tnn n f I hill hn alnrt There c ~ L I I ~

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/le I 'Lu y v u y v V Y " , be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

Here are some tips for winter driving:

Have your vehicle in good shape for winter. You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32°F; OOC) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition - smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow - drive with caution. If you have traction control, keep the system on. It will improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle has a traction control system you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9. If you don’t have a traction control system, accelerate gently. Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

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Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See Braking on page 4-6.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard flashers.

Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

,..ow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

your tires :,--n at high speed, they

.. yo et can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

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Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See “Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out.” For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-74. Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If your vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system off. See Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9.

Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” following.

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Towing

Towing Your Vehicle Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following. Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle behind another vehicle - such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”). With the proper preparation and equipment, many vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.

Here are some important things to consider before you do recreational vehicle towing:

What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. How far will you tow? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow Do you have the proper towing equipment? See your dealer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-23.

Dinghy Towing Notice: Towing your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground will damage drivetrain components. Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, you should use a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” that follows for more information.

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Dolly Towing

Loading Your Vehicle

TIRE-LOADING INFORMATION

CAP:

OCCUPANTS VEHICLE

WOT, ADD 28KPA(4PSI) I'S MANUAL FOR MORE INFORMATION

Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps:

1. Put the front wheels on the dolly. 2. Put the vehicle in PAHK (P). 3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key. 4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead

position.

5 Release the parking brake.

Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear edge of the driver's door tells y m ~ the proper si7e, speed ratins and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all GCCLlpmfS, cargo, and a!! !?enfactery-insta!!ec! eptims.

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I

MFD BY GENERAL MOTORS CORP

And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 176 Ibs (80 kg) in your trunk.

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

Notice: Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

The other label is the Certification Label, found on the rear edge of the driver’s door. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.

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If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

Put things in the trunk of your vehicle. In a trunk, put them as far forward as you can. Try to spread the weight evenly. Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle. When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

Automatic Level Control This feature keeps the rear of your vehicle level as the load changes. It’s automatic - you don’t need to adjust anything.

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Tovvilg a Trailer

r If you don’t use the correct equipment and

drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well - or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. You may also damage your vehicle; the resulting repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

Your vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.

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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls. Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles (1 600 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads. Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Pnn’t rlri?le f2ster t h m the m=lximc!m pcsted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on your vehicle’s parts.

Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer, the weight of the trailer tongue

0 and the total weight on your vehicle’s tires. Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 Ibs (450 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle. You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at: Buick Customer Assistance Center P.O. Box 33136 n-+--:+ n n ~ A O O Q O c . + o c UGLl U I 1 , l V l l Y V L 3 L - J I3V In Canada, write to: General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Communication Centre, 163-005 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Osha;n.la, Ontarie L! H 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33 for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch or a weight-distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10-15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer. Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the driver’s door, or see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

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Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-36. Dirt and water can also enter the vehicle.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

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Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform (and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns. Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

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Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a different turn signal flasher and/or extra wiring. Check with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.

When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug a trailer lighting system into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lamps goes out. So, when you have a trailer lighting system plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lamps from time to time to be sure they’re all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lamps, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lamps is out.

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Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well. On a long uphill grade, shift to THIRD (3) and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills

But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet.

3 . Have someone place chocks behind the trailer

wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P).

5. Release the regular brakes.

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

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When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you: * start your engine,

shift into a gear, and release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the

chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-30.

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

Service ............................................................ 5.3

Doing Your Own Service Work Adding Equipment to the Outside

......................... 5-3

of Your Vehicle ........................................... 5-4 Fuel ................................................................ 5-5 Gasoline Octane ............................................ 5-5 Gasoline Specifications .................................... 5-5 California Fuel ............................................... 5-6 Additives ....................................................... 5-6 Fuels in Foreign Countries ............................... 5-7 Filling Your Tank ............................................ 5-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container ....................... 5-9 Checking Things Under the Hood .................... 5-10 Hood Release .............................................. 5-10 Engine Compartment Overview ....................... 5-12 Engine Oil ................................................... 5-14 Supercharger Oil .......................................... 5-19 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ................................ 5-20 C Q Q A . . & - - - & r \ u ~ u ~ 3 LU Engine Coolant ............................................. 5-26 Radiator Pressure Cap .................................. 5-29 Engine Overheating ....................................... 5-30 Cooling System ............................................ 5-32 Power Steering Fluid ..................................... 5-40 .... wlndshieid Washer r " A 3-4 I

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................................

..............................

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Fiuia

T,

Brakes ........................................................ 5.42 Battery ........................................................ 5.45 Jump Starting ............................................... 5.46 Headlamp Aiming ........................................... 5-52 Bulb Replacement .......................................... 5-54 Halogen Bulbs .............................................. 5.54 Headlamps ................................................. -5-54 Front Turn Signal Lamps ............................... 5-57 Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamps and

Back-up Lamps .................... Rear Quarter Panel Turn Signal

......... 5.57

and Stoplamps .......................................... 5.61 Replacement Bulbs ....................................... 5.63 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement .............. 5.64 Tires .............................................................. 5.65 Inflation - Tire Pressure ................................ 5.66 Check Tire Pressure System .......................... 5-67 Tire Inspection and Rotation ........................... 5.68 When It Is Time for New Tires ....................... 5-69 Buying New Tires ......................................... 5.70 Uniform Tire Quality Grading .......................... 5-71 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance .................. 5-72 Wheel Replacement ......................... ..... 5-72 Tire Chains .................. ................. 5.74

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Section 5

Service and Appearance Care

If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................ 5-74 Changing a Flat Tire ..................................... 5-75 Compact Spare Tire ...................................... 5.84 Appearance Care ............................................ 5.85 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle ................. 5-85 Care of Safety Belts ...................................... 5.88 Weatherstrips ............................................... 5.88 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle .............. 5-89 Sheet Metal Damage ..................................... 5.91 Finish Damage ............................................. 5.91 Underbody Maintenance ................................ 5.91 Chemical Paint Spotting ................................ 5.92 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials ........... 5.92

Vehicle Identification ...................................... 5.94 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ................. 5.94 Service Parts Identification Label ..................... 5.94 Electrical System ............................................ 5.95 Add-on Electrical Equipment .......................... 5-95 Fuses and Circuit Breakers ............................ 5-95 Removing the Rear Seat Cushion .................. 5-100 Capacities and Specifications ........................ 5.104 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5.105 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts ......... 5.105

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Service Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and GM-trained and supported service people. We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM. Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:

Doing Your Own Service Work If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7- IO. Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-59.

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You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See Part E: Maintenance Record on page 6-28.

You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.

Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.

Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.

e Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and

other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.

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Fuel The 8th digit of your vehicle identification number (VIN) shows the code letter or number that identifies your engine. You will find the VIN at the top left of the instrument panel. See Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on page 5-94. Gasoline Bctan If your vehicle has the 3800 V6 engine (VIN Code K), use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. If your vehicle has the 3800 Supercharged V6 engine (VIN Code l ) , use only premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of 91 or higher. In an emergency, you may be able to use a lower octane - as low as 87 - if heavy knocking does not occur. Refill your tank with premilum f t ~ e l as soon as possible.

Otherwise, you might damage your engine. If you are using 91 octane or higher-octane fuel and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.

asoline Specifications

It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasoline.

In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the pump.

Canada Only

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California Fuel If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-42) and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.

Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly. You should not have to add anything to your fuel.

Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier. Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage the plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty. Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.

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Fuels in Foreign Countries If you plan on driving in another country outside the United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.

Filling “our Tank

Fuel vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries. Don’t smoke if you’re near fuel or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from fuel.

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged fuel door on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

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The release button for the fuel door is located to the left of the steering column.

There is also a manual fuel door release. It is located in the top of the trunk compartment, on the driver’s side of the vehicle.

While refueling, hang the tethered fuel cap from the hook on the fuel door. To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let the cap go too soon, it will spring back to the right.

Pull the tab to release the fuel door.

5-8

If you get fuel on yourself and then sorr,,.hing ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.

Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle on page 5-89. When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right (clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the armospnere. See iviaifuncrion inciicaror Lamp on page 3-42. Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may -..- v rnsusn v y w wnu~ ma!funct]en Indicator !amp to !jnht J“ may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.

If you get

and

Filling a Portable Fuel Container

it is in Nel. _: fil. -~ portable fuel container lile your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:

Dispense gasoline only into approved containers. Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground. 0 Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the

inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete. Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.

5-9

Checking Things Under the Hood

Hood Release To open the hood, do the following:

1. Pull the handle inside the

vehicle. It is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.

An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

lot engine . rts Things that burn can get o and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.

5-1 0

2. Then go to the front of the vehicle and locate the

secondary hood release lever under the front edge of the grille.

3. Lift up on this lever as you lift up the hood. Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.

5-1 1

Engine Compartment Overview

5-1 2

A. Battery B. Underhood Fuse Block C. Radiator Pressure Cap D. Engine Oil Dipstick E. Engine Oil Fill Cap

F. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir H. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir I. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

5-1 3

Engine Oil

ENGINE OIL LOW CHECK LEVEL

If the DIC message, ENGINE OIL LOW - CHECK LEVEL appears on the instrument cluster, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see Driver information Center (DIC) on page 3-48. You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.

Checking Engine Oil It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.

The engine oil dipstick is located behind the engine cooling fans and in front of the engine oil fill cap. The top of the dipstick is a round, yellow loop. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

5-1 4

When to Add Engine Oil If the oil is at or below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity, see Capacities and Specifications on page 5- 104.

Notice: Don’t add too much oil. If your engine nas so mucn oii inai ihe oii ievei yeis above iht: cross-hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.

Add engine oil at the engine oil fill cap next to the oil dipstick. See Engine Comparfment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range in the cross-hatched area. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.

5-1 5

What Kind of Engine Oil to Use Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol. 7 If you choose to perform

WEATHER

HOT

~-

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY GRADE ENGINE OILS

FOR BEST FUEL ECONOMY AND COLD STARTING, SELECT THE LOWEST

the engine oil change service yourself, be sure the oil you use has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum

You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the viscosity chart. SAE 1 OW-30 is the viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 5W-30 if it’s going to be colder than 60°F (1 6°C) before your next oil change. When it’s very cold, colder than 0°F (-1 8°C) you should use an SAE 5W-30 oil. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 1 OW-40 or SAE 2OW-50 under any conditions.

5-1 6

SAE 1OW-30 PREFERRED above 0°F (-18T)

SAE iw-30

COLD

WEATHER

DO NOT USE SAE 2OW-50 OR ANY OTHER GRADE OIL NOT RECOMMENDED

Notice: Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty. GM GoodwrenchB oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle. If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C) it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or an SAE OW-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures. Engine Oil Additives

Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.

When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles Without the GM Oil Life System) If any one of these is true for you, use the short tripkity maintenance schedule:

Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

e Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent

driving in stop-and-go traffic). You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle. The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first . ii none oi inem is irue, use ‘rile iorly iripihiyirway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.

5-1 7

When to Change Engine Oil (Vehicles With the GM Oil Life System) If so equipped, your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next two times you stop for fuel. It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.

If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Oil Life System The GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message being turned on, reset the system. Always reset the engine oil life to 100% after every oil change. It will not reset itself. To reset the Oil Life System, do the following: 1. Display OIL LIFE INDEX on the DIC. 2. Press and hold the DIC RESET button for more than

five seconds. The oil life will change to 100%.

5-1 8

What to Do with Used Oil

Supercharger Oil

Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.

Unless you are technically qualified and have the proper tools, you should let your dealer or a qualified service center perform this maintenance.

When to Check Check oil level every 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or every 36 months, whichever occurs first.

Use only the recommended supercharger oil. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-26.

5-1 9

How to Check and Add Oil Park the vehicle on a level surface. Check oil only when the engine is cold. Allow the engine to cool two to three hours after running.

Engine Air Cleaner/Filter

If you remove the supercharger oil fill plug while the engine is hot, pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the oil fill hole. You may be burned. Do not remove the plug until the engine cools.

1. Clean the area around the oil fill plug before

removing it.

2. Remove the oil fill plug. 3. The oil level is correct when it just reaches the

bottom of the threads of the inspection hole. 4. Replace the oil plug with the O-ring in place.

Tighten to 88 Ib-in (1 0 N*m ).

5-20

The engine air cleanerlfilter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:

1. Remove the wing nuts on the engine air

cleanedfilter housing cover.

2. Remove the air intake hose that snaps over the

throttle body by pulling the hose upward and away from the throttle body. As you are detaching the hose, remove the housing cover by pulling upward and rearward.

5-21

Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.

Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.

3. Check or replace the engine air cleanedfilter. 4. Reattach the air intake hose. 5. Reinstall the air cleaner housing cover. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter.

5-22

Automatic Transaxle Fluid When to Check and Change A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed. Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:

In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. When doing frequent trailer towing. Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.

If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at 100,000 miles (1 66 000 km). How to Check I7 ^^_.. -- +L:^ uccIauac3 LIIID w p c 3 1 a u w 1 1 b a I I U G (;I I I L c t G U I I I I ~ U I I , y v u I I I U Y choose to have this done at the dealership service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.

1-n h- - I;++l- A:#:-,,[+

. , _ . I mn , ,

Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid. Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:

When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). At high speed for quite a while. In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather. While pulling a trailer.

To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C). Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). If it's colder than 50°F (IO'C), you may have to drive longer.

5-23

Checking the Fluid Level Prepare your vehicle as follows:

Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK P). With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P). Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:

The transaxle fluid dipstick top is a round, red loop and is located next to the brake master cylinder reservoir behind the engine block. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location.

1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or

paper towel.

2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and

then pull it back out again.

5-24

3.

4.

Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross-hatched area. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.

How to Add Fluid Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-26. If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the dipstick.

1. Pull out the dipstick. 2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at the

dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.

Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled DEXRON@-Ill, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission. Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON@-Ill is not covered by your new vehicle warranty. 3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described

under “How to Check,” earlier in this section.

4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the

dipstick back in all the way.

5-25

Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL@ engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL@ extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 5-30. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ will:

Give freezing protection down to -34°F (-37°C). Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). Protect against rust and corrosion. Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.

5-26

Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.

What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL@ coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture you don’t need to add anything else.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DFX-COOL~ cnnlant-

5-27

The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL COLD or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT or a little higher. Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL@ coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.

Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.

>hecking Coolant

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

5-28

Radiator Pressure Cap

Notice: Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for more information on location.

You can be burned if you spill coolant or. ,,ot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-32.

5-29

Engine Overheating You will find a warning light about a hot engine, as well as a coolant temperature gage, on your instrument panel. If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

Notice: If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-30

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

Climb a long hill on a hot day. Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan

speed and open the window as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there’s still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

5-31

Cooling System

When you decide it's safe to lift the hood, here's what you'll see:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, jon't do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

A. Radiator Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans C. Coolant Recovery Tank

5-32

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. The coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they aren’t, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant. If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

5-33

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL@ engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information.

Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL@ coolant.

5-34

You can be burned if you spill coc ._...- on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL COLD mark, start your vehicle. If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

_ _ _ ~ - .

5-35

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push

down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.) If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

5-36

3. Remove the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield

to access the bleed valve.

3.1. Clean the area around the engine oil fill tube

and cap before removing. Twist the oil fill tube, with cap attached, counterclockwise 2nd TPrn"'!E!

it.

3.2. If you have the supercharged engine,

remove the nut in the center of the cover shield.

3.3. Lift the engine cover shield at the front, slide the catch tab out of the engine bracket and remove the cover shield.

3.4. Put the oil fill tube, with cap attached, in the valve cover oil fill hole until you're ready to replace the cover shield.

?. After the engine cools,

open the coolant air bleed valve. There is one bleed valve. It is located on the thermostat housing.

5-37

6. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine

and the compartment.

7. Replace the 3800 Series II V6 engine cover shield. 7.1. Remove the oil fill tube, with cap attached,

from the valve cover.

7.2. Insert the catch tab on the cover shield

under the bracket on the engine.

7.3. Place the hole in the cover shield over the

hole in the valve cover. Install oil fill tube and cap by twisting clockwise.

7.4. If you have the supercharged engine,

install

the nut in the center of the cover shield. 8. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the FULL

COLD mark.

5. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL@

coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-26 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If you see a stream of coolant coming from an air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is filled.

9. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank,

but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-38

Power Steering Fluid

How to Check Power Steering Fluid Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick. The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-26. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

5-40

Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for reservoir location. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer fluid reservoir is low, a WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID LOW message will be displayed on the DIG (if equipped).

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.

Notice: * When using concentrated washer fluid, follow

the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

* Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

0 Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your

windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

5-41

Brakes Brake Fluid

Your master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is

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leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all. So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off’ your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

11 ,DU have toc ..wch brake fluid, it ,,n the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

s , d on

When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. A chime will sound if you try to drive with this warning light on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-39.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Refer to Part D: Recommended fluids and Lubricants on page 6-26. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

With the wrong kind of fluid system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

in your bra

Notice:

Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash See “Appearance Care” in the Index.

it off immediately.

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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

The brake wear war ng so d means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. See Brake System Inspection on page 6-25. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free ACDelco@ battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco@ battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5- 12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

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Vehicle Storage If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.

Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain gas that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

Batteries have acid tllai can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” next for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods. Also, for your audio system, see Theft-Deterrent Feature on page 3- 75.

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1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

Notice: If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transaxle In PARK (P) or a manual transaxle in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake.

Nofice: If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlet(s). Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+> and negative (-) terminal locations on each vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12

lr more information on location.

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands; clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

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Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco@ battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you’h get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black

negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (-) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

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10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Notice: Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that the cables don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

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B

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

other vehicle.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (-) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive or Remote

Negative (-) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

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If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to your dealer for service; however, it is possible for you to re-aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure. Notices To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts. To check the aim, the vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:

The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface. If necessary, pads may be used on an uneven surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it.

Headlamp Aiming

The headlamp aiming device is under the hood,