1993 Buick Park Avenue Owners Manual

within 5 seconds to see how long the CD has been playing that track. The display will automatically return to the time of day. The track number also appears when you change the volume, or when a new track starts to play. COMP Pressing the COMP button makes soft and loud passages more equal in volume. COMP will appear in the display. RDM The RDM button means random and when it is pressed, your CD player will play the tracks in random order rather than sequential 1,2,3 ... order. Pressing RDM again will play the disc in sequential order.

REV Press and hold REV to return rapidly to a favorite passage in a track. Note the seconds counter reading in the display. Release it to play the passage. FWD Press and hold FWD to advance quickly within a track. Release it to resume playing. Watch the display to ston at a specific passage. PREV Press PREV to hear the previous track. If you hold this button or press it more than once, the disc will retreat to previous tracks. NEXT Press NEXT to hear the next track now (instead of waiting until the present track is finished.) If you hold this button, or press it more than once, the disc will advance further. STlPL Press ST/PL (Stop/Play) and the disc will stop and the radio will play. Press ST/PL again to restart the disc at the point where it stopped.

Press the PWR button or turn the ignition key off to stop the disc player. The disc stays in the player and will resume playing at the point where it stopped. EJECT Press EJCT, the disc will eject and the radio will play. The disc will start at track 1 when you reinsert it. As a feature to protect the disc, if you turn the ignition off with the disc partway out of the slot (after eject), it will be drawn back into the player in about 30 seconds. The disc will play at track 1 when the radio is turned on again. Anti-Theft Feature Delco-Loc I1 is a security feature for the compact disc player. It can be used or ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally. If it is used, your player won’t be usable if it’s ever stolen, because it won’t turn on. The instructions below tell you how to enter your personal secret code into the system. If your vehicle loses battery power for any reason, you must unlock the system with the secret code again before the system will turn on. Be sure to read through the entire procedure and become familiar with the appropriate buttons and knobs before starting. Step 1. Write clown any 6-digit number and keep it in a safe place.

Step 2. Turn the ignition to the ACC or RUN position. Step 3. Press PWR to turn the radio off. Step 4. Press preset 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them until “---” shows on the display (at least 5 seconds). You are now ready to enter your secret code. If you pause more than 15 seconds between steps you may have to start over. Step 5. Press SET and “000” will appear on the display. Step 6. Press SEEK and hold it until the first digit of your code appears. Step 7. Rotate the tune knob right or left to make the next two numbers agree with your code. Step 8. Press AM-FM knob and “000” will appear. Now you are ready to enter the second three digits of the code according to steps 6 and 7. Step 9. Press the AM-FM knob. The display will show “rEP” for 5 seconds, and then “OOO” will appear indicating that some steps are to be repeated for verification. Step 10. Repeat steps 6,7, and 8. Step 11. Press the AM-FM knob. If the display shows “SEC”, the verification process was successful and the system is SECURE. If the display shows “---”, the verification steps were not successful and the entire sequence must be started again.

To Unlock The System After a Power Loss When battery power is reapplied to a secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and “LOC” will appear in the display. Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps. Step 1. Turn the ignition ON (Radio off.) Step 2. Press the SET button. The display will show “000”. Step 3. Enter the six digits of the code following steps 6 thru 9 on the preceding page. The display will show the number as entered. Step 4. Press the AM/FM button and the time appears - indicating that the disabling sequence was successful. If the display indicates “SEC”, the number did not match and the unit is still secured.

Disabling The Theft System Step 1. Press presets 1 and 4 for 5 seconds with the ignition “On” and radio power “Off ”. The display will show “SEC”, indicating the unit is in the secure mode. Step 2. Press the SET button. The display will show “000”. Step 3. Enter the first three digits of the code following step 6 and 7 of the preceding directions. The display will show the numbers as entered. Step 4. Press the AM-FM button. The radio will display “000”. Step 5. Enter the second three digits of the code. The display will show the numbers as entered. Step 6. Press the AM-FM button. If the display shows “ --- ” , the disabling sequence was successful. (The numbers matched the user-selected code or the factory back-up code) and the unit is in the UNSECURED mode. If the display shows “SEC”, the disabling sequence was unsuccessful and the numbers did not match either of the codes and the unit will remain in the SECURED mode.

Care of Your Cassette Tape Player A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes, or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight, and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or cause failure of the tape player. Your tape player should be cleaned regularly each month or after every 15 hours of use. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if the tape or the tape player is at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player. Clean your tape player with a wiping-action, non-abrasive cleaning cassette, and follow the directions provided with it. Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure that the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.

Care of Your Compact Discs Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge. Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.

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Fixed Mast Antenna The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it. Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the fender. Power Antenna Mast Care Your power antenna will look its best and work well if it’s cleaned from time to time. To Clean the Antenna Mast: 1. Turn on the ignition and radio to raise the antenna to

full mast extension.

2. Dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits or

equivalent solvent.

. 1

3. Wipe cloth over the

mast sections, removing any dirt.

4. Wipe dry with clean cloth before retracting. 5. Make the antenna go up and down by turning the

radio or ignition on and off.

6. Then repeat if necessary.

I NOTICE: I Don’t lubricate the power antenna. Lubrication

could damage it.

If the mast portion of your antenna is damaged, you can easily replace it. See your dealer for a replacement kit and follow the instructions in the kit.

I NOTICE:

. ,.

:. .

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I

I931 Buick Model 90

@ Part 4 Your Driving and the Road

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Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions . We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving . Part 4 includes:

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RoadSigns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DefensiveDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DrunkenDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ................................... Control of a Vehicle ......................... Braking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Passing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LossofControl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DrivingatNight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DrivingintheRain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Driving in Fog, Mist and Haze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CityDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FreewayDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DrivingonaLongTrip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HillandMountainRoads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ParkingonHills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WinterDriving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TowingaTrailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

160 166 167 170 171 176 178 180 181 183 186 187 188 190 192 194 197 201

Color of Road Signs

RED means STOP. It may also indicate that some movement is not allowed. Examples are DO NOT ENTER and WRONG WAY.

Road Signs The road signs you see everywhere are coded by color, shape and symbols. It’s a good idea to know these codes so that you can quickly grasp the basic meaning or intent of the sign even before you have a chance to read it.

h

RAILROAD ADVANCE CROSSING

NARROW BRIDGE

AHEAD

FLAGGER

LOW

SHOULDER

AHEAD

WORKERS

YELLOW indicates a general warning. Slow down and be careful when you see a yellow sign. It may signal a railroad crossing ahead, a no passing zone, or some other potentially dangerous situation. Likewise, a yellow solid line painted on the road means “Don’t Cross.’’

ORANGE indicates road construction or maintenance. You’ll want to slow down when you see an orange sign, as part of the road may be closed off or tom up. And there may be workers and maintenance vehicles around, too.

-

E X I T

WI Is

1 MILE

YT UN

HOSPITAL

INFORMATION

BLUE signs with white letters show motorists’ services.

GREEN is used to guide the driver. Green signs may indicate upcoming freeway exits or show the direction you should turn to reach a particular place.

II

-,::

SWIMMING

CANOEING

BROWN signs point out recreation areas or points of historic or cultural interest.

Shape of Road Signs The shape of the sign will tell you something, too.

v ST0 P $&

An OCTAGONAL (eight-sided) sign means STOP. It is always red with white letters.

A DIAMOND-shaped sign is a warning of something ahead - for example, a curve, steep hill, soft shoulder, or a narrow bridge.

A TRIANGLE, pointed downward, indicates YIELD. It assigns the right-of-way to traffic on certain approaches to an intersection.

A TRIANGULAR sign also is used on two-lane roads to indicate a NO PASSING ZONE. This sign will be on the left side of the roadway.

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Symbols on Road Signs x

IIoNLV!

KEEP RIGHT

LEFT OR THROUGH

RIGHT TURN

ONLY

RECTANGULAR (square or oblong) signs show speed limits, parking regulations, give directions, and such information as distances to cities.

There are many international road signs in use today. The basic message of many of these signs is in pictures or graphic symbols. A picture within a circle with a diagonal line across it shows what not to do.

Traffic Lights

L m

We’re all familiar with traffic lights or stop lights. Often green arrows are being used in the lights for improved traffic control. On some multilane roads, green arrows light up, indicating that traffic in one or more lanes can move or make a turn. Green arrows don’t mean “go no matter what.” You’ll still need to proceed with caution, yielding the right of way to pedestrians and sometimes to other vehicles. Some traffic lights also use red arrows to signify that

you must stop before turning on red. x MULTI- U

REVERSIBLE LANE ON

LANE

ROADWAY

Many city roads and expressways, and even bridges, use reversible-lane traffic control during rush hours. A red X light above a lane means no driving in that lane at that

165

time. A green arrow means you may drive in that lane. Look for the signs posted to warn drivers what hours and days these systems are in effect. Pavement Markings

NO

PASSING

ZONE

Pavement markings add to traffic signs and signals. They give information to drivers without taking attention from the roadway. A solid yellow line on your side of the road or lane means “don’t cross.” Your Own Signals Drivers signal to others, too. It’s not only more polite, it’s safer to let other drivers know what you are doing. And in some places the law requires driver signals. Turn and lane change signals. Always signal when you plan to turn or change lanes.

If necessary, you can use hand signals out the window: Left arm straight out for a left turn, down for slow or about-to-stop, and up for a right turn. Slowing down. If time allows, tap the brake pedal once or twice in advance of slowing or stopping. This warns the driver behind you. Disabled. Your four-way flashers signal that your vehicle is disabled or is a hazard. See “Hazard Warning Flashers” in the Index. Traffic Officer The traffic police officer is also a source of important information. The officer’s signals govern, no matter what the traffic lights or other signs say. The next section discusses some of the road conditions you may encounter. Defensive Driving The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive defensively. Please start with a very important safety device in your Buick: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)

Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.” On city streets, rural roads, or freeways, it means “always expect the unexpected.” Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes. Expect children to dash out from behind parked cars, often followed by other children. Expect occupants in parked cars to open doors into traffic. Watch for movement in parked cars -- someone may be about to open a door. Expect other drivers to run stop signs when you are on a through street. Be ready to brake if necessary as you go through intersections. You may not have to use the brake, but if you do, you will be ready. If you’re driving through a shopping center parking lot where there are well-marked lanes, directional arrows, and designated parking areas, expect some drivers to ignore all these markings and dash straight toward one part of the lot. Pedestrians can be careless. Watch for them. In general, you must give way to pedestrians even if you know you have the right of way. Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough

following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly. Here’s a final bit of information about defensive driving. The most dangerous time for driving in the U.S. is very early on Sunday morning. In fact, GM Research studies show that the most and the least dangerous times for driving, every week, fall on the same day. That day is Sunday. The most dangerous time is Sunday from 3 a.m. to 4 a.m. The safest time is Sunday from 10 a.m. to 11 a.m. Driving the same distance on a Sunday at 3 a.m. isn’t just a little more dangerous than it is at 10 a.m. It’s about 134 times more dangerous! That leads to the next section. Drunken Driving Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year. Alcohol takes away three things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle: 0 Judgment 0 Muscular Coordination 0 Vision

Police records show that half of all motor vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol - a driver, a passenger or someone else, such as a pedestrian, had been drinking. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. Over 25,000 motor vehicle-related deaths occur each year because of alcohol, and thousands of people are injured. Just how much alcohol is too much if a person plans to drive? Ideally, no one should drink alcohol and then drive. But if one does, then what’s “too much”? It can be a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general. information on the problem. The Blood Alcohol Content (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

How much alcohol is in the drink. The drinker’s body weight. The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking. The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.

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According to the American Medical Association, a 180-pound (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce (355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces (45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka. It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s

BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a slightly lower BAC level.

1 I 3 HOURS

I - ? HOURS

NUMBER OF DRINKS (as in piclure) 4

100 120 140

160 180 200 220 240

BODY WEIQHT IN POUNDS

The law in most U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In Canada the limit is 0.08 percent, and in some other countries it’s lower than that. The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how

much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them. But it’s very important to keep in mind that the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching 0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being in an accident increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of 0.06 percent (three beers in one hour for a 180-pound or 82 kg person) has doubled his or her chance of having an accident. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of that driver having an accident is six times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chances are twenty-five times greater! And, the body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street? A person with a higher BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision. There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that

Control of a Vehicle You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse. That’s especially true for brain, spinal cord and heart injuries. That means that if anyone who has been drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, the chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if that person had not been drinking. And we’ve already seen that the chance of a crash itself is higher for drinking drivers.

/I\ CAUTION:

Drlnklng and then driving Is very dangerous. Your reflexes, perceptions, and judgment wlll be could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You you drive after drinking. Please don’t drink and drive or rlde with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking.

0 Don’t “ride’’ the brakes by letting your left foot rest

lightly on the brake pedal while driving.

a==-- . . -.

Braking - time. Braking action involves perception time and reaction

First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal. That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time. Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important. And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; and the condition of your brakes. Most drivers treat their brakes with care. Some, however, overwork the braking system with poor driving habits.

1 A CAUTION:

“Riding” your brakes can cause them to overheat to the point that they won’t work well. You might not be able to stop your vehicle in time to avoid an accident. If you “ride” your brakes, they will get so hot they will require a lot of pedal force to slow you down. Avoid “riding” the brakes.

---

E: e brakes weafs them out much faster You would need costly brake replacement much sooner than normal, and it also reduces fuel

If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.

If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the

pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

‘I

Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Your Buick has an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent skidding. This light on the instrument panel will go on when you start your vehicle. See “Anti-lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.

ANTI LOCK

ANTI LOCK

KK

Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet. You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS. A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. The computer separately works the brakes at each front wheel and at the rear wheels.

You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

I

CAUTION:

Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes ifethat vehicle suddenly stows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have antblock brakes.

To Use Anti-Lock: Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down and let anti-lock work for you. When you start your vehicle and begin to drive away, you may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise. And you may even notice that your brake pedal moves a little while this is going on. This is the ABS system testing itself. You may also hear this during a hard stop. Traction Control System (Option) Your vehicle may have a traction control system that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The traction control system works at low speeds only, such as when you accelerate from a

174

stop. It applies brake pressure to an individual wheel that the system senses is about to spin. You may feel the system working, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal.

TRACTION

OFF

The “TRACTION OFF” warning light lets you know if your traction control system is not working. See “Traction Control System Warning Light” in the Index. Disc Brake Wear Indicators Your Buick has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come

and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).

I A CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.

Rear Drum Brakes Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brakes replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly. If you drive in that way, then -- very carefully -- make a few moderate brake stops about every 1000 miles (1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.

175

Braking in Emergencies Use your anti-lock braking system when you need to. With anti-lock, you ‘can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking. Steering Power Steering If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system fails to function, you can steer but it .will take much more effort. Steering Tips Driving on Curves It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed. A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why: Experienced driver or beginner, each.of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to changejts path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this. 176

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems -- steering .and acceleration -- can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control. What should you do if this ever happens? Let up on the .accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down. Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower. If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead. Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

When you drive into a curve at night, it’s harder to see the road ahead of you because it bends away from the straight beams of your lights. This is one good reason to drive slower. Steering in Emergencies There are timi% when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around the problem. Your Buick can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available. An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and

just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object. You must then be prepared to steer back to your original lane and then brake to a controlled stop. Depending on your speed, this can be rather violent for an unprepared driver. This is one of the reasons driving experts recommend that you use your safety belts and keep both hands on the steering wheel.

The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times.

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Off-Road Recovery You may find sometime that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving. If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to 1/4 turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

inches

If the shoulder appears to be about four (100 mm) or more below the pavement, this difference can cause problems. If there is not enough room to pull entirely onto the shoulder and stop, then follow the same procedures. But if the right front tire scrubs against the side of the pavement, do NOT steer more sharply. With too much steering angle, the vehicle may jump back onto the road with so much steering input that it crosses over into the oncoming traffic before you can bring it back under control. Instead, ease off again on the accelerator and steering input, straddle the pavement once more, then try again. Passing The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two-lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver? Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision.

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So here are some tips for passing:

“Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time. Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic. If you suspect that the driver of the vehicle you want to pass isn’t aware of your presence, tap the horn a couple of times before passing. Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle. Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start’’ that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity. If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot. Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

0

Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle. Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly. Even though the brake lights are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn. If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

Loss of Control Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger. Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.

The three types of skids correspond to your Buick’s three control systems. In the braking skid your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal. If your vehicle starts to slide (as when you turn a corner on a wet, snow- or ice-covered road), ease your foot off the accelerator pedal as soon as you feel the vehicle start to slide. Quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle will straighten out. As it does, straighten the front wheels. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid.sudden steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your

vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any anti-lock braking system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid. Steer the way you want to go- Driving at Night

...,.

.. -

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Here are some tips on night driving.

Drive defensively. Remember, this is the most dangerous time. Don’t drink and drive. (See “Drunken Driving” in the Index for more on this problem.) Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlights behind you. Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles. It’s hard to tell how fast the vehicle ahead . is going just by looking at its taillights. Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlights can light up only so much road ahead. In remote areas, watch for animals. If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

Night Vision No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old. What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlights, but they also make a lot of things invisible that should remain visible - such as parked cars, obstacles, pedestrians, or even trains blocking railway crossings. You may want to put on your sunglasses after you have pulled into a brightly-lighted service or refreshment area. Eyes shielded from that glare may adjust more quickly to darkness back on the road. But be sure to remove your sunglasses before you leave the service area. You can be temporarily blinded by approaching lights. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching lights. If there is a line of opposing traffic,

make occasional glances over the line of headlights to make certain that one of the vehicles isn’t starting to move into your lane. Once you are past the bright lights, give your eyes time to readjust before resuming speed. High Beams If the vehicle approaching you has its high beams on, signal by flicking yours to high and then back to low beam. This is the usual signal to lower the headlight beams. If the other driver still doesn’t lower the beams, resist the temptation to put your high beams on. This only makes two half-blinded drivers. On a freeway, use your high beams only in remote areas where you won’t impair approaching drivers. In some places, like cities, using high beams is illegal. When you follow another vehicle on a freeway or highway, use low beams. True, most vehicles now have day-night mirrors that enable the driver to reduce glare. But outside mirrors are not of this type and high beams from behind can bother the driver ahead. A Few More Night Driving Suggestions Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Tobacco smoke also

Driving in the Rain

makes inside glass surfaces very filmy and can be a vision hazard if it’s left there. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly. You might even want to keep a cloth and some glass cleaner in your vehicle if you need to clean your glass frequently. Remember that your headlights light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlights should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and aren’t even aware of it.

Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads. And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction.

It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement. The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road, and even people walking. Road spray can often be worse for vision than rain, especially if it comes from a dirty road. So it is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles. But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

A CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle. After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. You might not be aware of hydroplaning. You could drive along for some time without realizing your tires aren’t in constant contact with the road. You could find out the hard way: when you have to slow, turn, move out to pass -- or if you get hit by a gust of wind. You could suddenly find yourself out of control. Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the

road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles, or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a’hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining, and be careful. Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

Turn on your headlights -- not just your parking lights -- to help make you more visible to others. Look for hard-to-see vehicles coming from behind.. You may want to use your headlights even in daytime if it’s raining hard. Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray. If the road spray is so heavy you are actually blinded, drop back. Don’t pass until conditions improve. Going more slowly is better than having an accident. Use your defogger if it helps. Have good tires with proper tread depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)

Driving in Fog, Mist and Haze

Fog can occur with high humidity or heavy frost. It can be so mild that you can see through it for several hundred feet (meters). Or it might be so thick that you can see only a few feet (meters) ahead. It may come suddenly to an otherwise clear road. And it can be a major hazard.

When you drive into a fog patch, your visibility will be reduced quickly. The biggest dangers are striking the vehicle ahead or being struck by the one behind. Try to "read" the fog density down the road. If the vehicle ahead starts to become less clear or, at night, if the taillights are harder to see, the fog is probably thickening. Slow down to give traffic behind you a chance to slow down. Everybody then has a better chance to avoid hitting the vehicle ahead. A patch of dense fog may extend only for a few feet (meters) or for miles (kilometers); you can't really tell while you're in it. You can only treat the situation with extreme care. One common fog condition -- sometimes called mist or ground fog -- can happen in weather that seems perfect, especially at night or in the early morning in valley and low, marshy areas. You can be suddenly enveloped in thick, wet haze that may even coat your windshield. You can often spot these fog patches or mist layers with your headlights. But sometimes they can be waiting for you as you come over a hill or dip into a shallow valley. Start your windshield wipers and washer, to help clear accumulated road dirt. Slow down carefully.

Tips on Driving in Fog If you get caught in fog, turn your headlights on low beam, even in daytime. You’ll see -- and be seen -- better. Don’t use your high beams. The light will bounce off the water droplets that make up fog and reflect back at you. Use your defogger. In high humidity, even a light buildup of moisture on the inside of the glass will cut down on your already limited visibility. Run your windshield wipers and washer occasionally. Moisture can build up on the outside glass, and what seems to be fog may actually be moisture on the outside of your windshield. Treat dense fog as an emergency. Try to find a place IO pull off the road. Of course you want to respect another’s property, but you might need to put something between you and moving vehicles -- space, trees, telephone poles, a private driveway, anything that removes you from other traffic. If visibility is near zero and you must stop but are unsure whether you are away from the road, turn your lights on, start your hazard warning flashers, and sound your horn at intervals or when you hear approaching traffic.

Pass other vehicles in fog only if you can see far enough ahead to pass safely. Even then, be prepared to delay your pass if you suspect the fog is worse up ahead. If other vehicles try to pass you, make it easy for them. City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Here are ways tohcrease your safety in city driving: Know the best way to get to where you are going. Try not to drive around trying to pick out a familiar street or landmark. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross-country trip. Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You'll save time and energy. (See the next section, "Freeway Driving.") Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light. Obey all posted speed limits. But remember that they are for ideal road, weather and visibility conditions. You may need to drive below the posted limit in bad weather or when visibility is especially poor. Pull to the right (with care) and stop clear of intersections when you see or hear emergency vehicles.

Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules. The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or

too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane. Entering the Freeway At the entrance there is usually a ramp mat leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to. determine where you expect to blend with the flow. If traffic is light, you may have no problem. But if it is heavy, find a gap as you move along the entering lane and time your approach. Try to merge into the gap at,close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your rearview mirrors as you move along, and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffi.c flow. Driving on the Freeway Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to ‘pass. If you are on a two-lane freeway, treat the right Lane as the slow lane and the left lane as the passing lane. If you are on a three-lane freeway, treat the right lane as the slower-speed through lane, the middle lane as the higher-speed through lane, and the left lane as the passing lane.

Before changing lanes, check your rearview mirrors. Then use your turn signal. Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your “blind” spot. If you are moving from an outside.to a center lane on a freeway having more than two lanes, make sure another vehicle isn’t about to move into the same spot. Look at the vehicles two lanes over and watch for telltale signs: turn signals flashing, an increase in speed, or moving toward the edge of the lane. Be prepared to delay your move. . Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night. Leaving the Freeway When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. Dashing across lanes at the last minute is dangerous. If you miss your exit do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit. At each.exit point is a’deceleration lane. Ideally it should be long enough for you to enter it at freeway speed (after signaling, of course) and then do your

braking before moving onto the exit ramp. Unfortunately, not all deceleration lanes are long enough -- some are too short for all the braking. Decide when to start braking. If you must brake on the through lane, and if there is traffic close behind you, you can allow a little extra time and flash your brake lights (in addition to your turn signal) as extra warning that you are about to slow down and exit. The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply. The exit speed is usually posted. Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are. For example, 40 mph (65 km/h) might seem like only 20 mph (30 km/h). Obviously, this could lead to serious trouble on a ramp designed for 20 mph (30 km/h)! Driving a Long Distance Although most long trips today are made on freeways, there are still many made on regular highways. Long-distance driving on freeways and regular highways is the same in some ways. The trip has to be planned and the vehicle prepared, you drive at higher-than-city speeds, and there are longer turns behind the wheel. You’ll enjoy your trip more if you and

your vehicle are in good shape. Here are some tips for a successful long trip. Before Leaving on a Long Trip Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in. Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in Buick dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it. Here are some things you can check before a trip:

Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean inside and outside?

0 Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?

Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels? Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean? Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for

Highway Hypnosis Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever. There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured. What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure? Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system? Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?

On the Road Unless you are the only driver, it is good to share the driving task with others. Limit turns behind the wheel to about 100 miles (160 km) or two hours at a sitting. Then, either change drivers or stop for some refreshment like coffee, tea or soft drinks and some limbering up. But do stop and move around. Eat lightly along the way. Heavier meals tend to make some people sleepy. On two-lane highways or undivided multilane highways that do not have controlled access, you’ll want to watch for some situations not usually found on freeways. Examples are: stop signs and signals, shopping centers with direct access to the highway, no passing zones and school zones, vehicles turning left and right off the road, pedestrians, cyclists, parked vehicles, and even animals.

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Then here are some tips:

Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior. Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your rearview mirrors frequently and your instruments from time to time. This can help you avoid a fixed stare. Wear good sunglasses in bright light. Glare can cause drowsiness. But don't wear sunglasses at night. They will drastically reduce your overall vision at the very time you need all the seeing power you have. If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service, or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

As in any driving situation, keep pace with traffic and allow adequate following distances.

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Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain. If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're ,planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.

Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transaxle. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Don’t make your brakes do it all. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill. That way, you will slow down without excessive use of your brakes.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Sh‘rft down to let your mgilne assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

I I A

Coastlng downhill On “ N (Neutral) or with the ignltbn off 5s dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They touid get so hot that they woufdn’t work well. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go dawnhill,

Know how to go uphill. Shift down to “D’ (Drive). This will help cool your engine and transaxle, and you can climb the hill better.

0 Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane

roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. That way, you won’t be surprised by a vehicle coming toward you in the same lane. It takes longer to pass another vehicle when you’re going uphill. You’ll want to leave extra room to pass. If a vehicle is passing you and doesn’t have enough room, slow down to make it easier for the other vehicle to get by. As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident. You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

0 Winter driving can present special problems. See

“Winter Driving” in the Index.

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Parking on Hills

You can turn your front wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling downhill or out into traffic. Here’s how: Parking Downhill

Hills and mountains mean spectacular scenery. But please be careful where you stop if you decide to look at the view or take pictures. Look for pull-offs or parking areas provided for scenic viewing. Another part of this manual tells how to use your parking brake (see “Parking Brake” in the Index). But on a mountain or steep hill, you can do one more thing.

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Turn your wheels to the right. You don’t have to jam your tires against the curb, if there is a curb. A gentle contact is all you need.

Parking Uphill

If there is a curb, turn your wheels to the left if the curb is at the right side of your vehicle.

If you’re going uphill on a one-way street and you’re parking on the left side, your wheels should point to the right.

Torque Lock (Automatic Transaxle) If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transaxle into “P” (Park) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transaxle. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of “F‘” (Park). This is called “torque lock.” To prevent torque lock, always be sure to shift into “P” (Park) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into ‘P’ (Park)” in the Index. When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of “P” (Park) BEFORE you release the parking brake. If “torque lock” does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the transaxle, so you can pull the shift lever out of “P” (Park).

If there is no curb when you’re parking uphill, turn the wheels to the right. If there is no curb when you’re parking uphill on the left side of a one-way street, your wheels should be turned to the left.

Winter Driving

You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your trunk.

Here are some tips for winter driving: 0 Have your Buick in good shape for winter. Be sure

your engine coolant mix is correct. Snow tires can help in loose snow, but they may give you less traction on ice than regular tires. If you do not expect to be driving in deep snow, but may have to travel over ice, you may not want to switch to snow tires at all.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth, and a . couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

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Driving on Snow or Ice Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction. However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction

of all. You can get “wet ice” when it’s about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there. Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow -- drive with caution. Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. Your anti-lock brakes improve your ability to make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have the anti-lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti-lock” in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any slippery road. Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

If You're Caught in a Blizzard

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe: Turn on your hazard flashers. Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you've been stopped by the snow. Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm. You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

LCAUTION:

A CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time snow doesn’t collect there. Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

to time to be sure

CAUTION: (Continued)

Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlights. Let the heater run for awhile.

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes. If You’re Stuck in Deep Snow This manual explains how to get the vehicle out of deep snow without damaging it. See “Rocking Your Vehicle” in the Index. Towing a Trailer

1 A CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section.

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not cover by your warranty. To pull the advice in this section

Your car can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability, and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly. That’s the reason for this section, In it are many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

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Load-pulling components such as the engine, transaxle, wheel assemblies, and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. All of that means changes in:

Handling Durability Fuel economy

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer If you do, here are some important points.

There are many different laws having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh 2,000 pounds (900 kg) or less. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg).

You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

Three important considerations have to do with weight: Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg), unless you have the optional 3,000 pound (1 350 kg) trailer towing package. But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at

Buick Motor Division Customer Assistance Center 902 E. Hamilton Avenue Flint, MI 48550. In Canada, write to

General Motors of Canada Limited Customer Assistance Center 1908 Colonel Sam Drive Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7.

Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total capacity weight of your vehicle. The capacity weight includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must subtract the tongue load from your vehicle’s capacity weight because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

If you’re using a “dead-weight” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you have a “weight-distributing” hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12% of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door (or see “Tire Loading” in the Index). Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle. Hitches It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 2,000 pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving. Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the Index). Dirt and water can, too.

0 The bumpers on your vehicle are not intended for

hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to them. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.

Safety Chains You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on the ground. Trailer Brakes If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly. Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do, both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.

Driving with a Trailer Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly so responsive as your vehicle is by itself. Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety chains, electrical connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time. During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working. Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane. Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you. Making Turns When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance. lbrn Signals When Towing a Trailer When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have a different turn signal flasher and extra wiring. The green arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,

the trailer lights will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop. When towing a trailer, the green arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working. Your vehicle has bulb warning lights. When you plug trailer lights into your vehicle’s lighting system, its bulb warning lights may not let you know if one of your lights goes out. So, when you have trailer lights plugged in, be sure to check your vehicle and trailer lights from time to time to be sure they’re-all working. Once you disconnect the trailer lights, the bulb warning lights again can tell you if one of your vehicle lights is out. Driving On Grades Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

On a long uphill grade, shift down to “D or 3” (Drive) and reduce your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of engine and transaxle overheating. Parking on Hills You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it: 1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into “F’”

(Park) yet.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels. 3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking

brake, and then shift to “ P ’ (Park).

5. Release the regular brakes.

When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down

while you:

Start your engine;

0 Shift into a gear; and 0 Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks. 4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, belt, cooling system, and brake adjustment. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

.

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I954 Buick Model 56C

@ Part 5 Problems on the Road

=I Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road . Part 5 includes:

~~

Hazard Warning Flashers ............................................................ 210 OtherWarningDevices ............................................................. 211 “Jump”Starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 TowingYourBuick ................................................................ 217 Engineoverheating ................................................................ 221 IfaTireGoesFlat ................................................................. 228 ChangingaFlatTire ................................................................ 229 CompactSpareTire ................................................................ 237 If You’re Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow .............................................. 239

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. . . . . .

c - ~ ~

Hazard Warning Flashers I 7 '.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lights will flash on and off.

210

, , . ..,

, >., :,

Press the button in to make your front and rear turn signal lights flash on and off. Your hazard flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn't in.

To turn off the flashers, pull out on the collar. When the hazard flashers are on, your turn signals won't work. Other Warning Devices If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

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Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your Buick. But please follow the steps below to do it safely.

A CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

They contain acid that can burn you. They contain ass that can explode or ignite. They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactlp, all of these things can hurt you.

damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your Buick by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle. To Jump Start Your Buick: 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your Buick, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

I A CAUTION:

A CAUTION:

You could be injured if the vehicles roll. Set the parking brake firmly on each vehicle. Put an automatic transaxle in “P” (Park) or a manual transaxle in “N” (Neutral).

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing anA tools away from any underhood electric fan

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Turn off all

lights that aren’t needed, and radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

1 NOTICE:

If you leave your ram0 or damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered b) your warranty.

’t could be baaly

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries.

Find the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on eact battery.

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a metal engine part. Don’t connect (+) to (-) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.

‘ A CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engines are running.

A CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enoug,h water. You don’t need to add water to the Delco Freedom@ battery installed in’ every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to’ take care of that first If you don’tt, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic th.ings you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) a ~ d mgative (-) will go to negative (-) or

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8. Now connect the black negative (-) cable to the good battery’s negative (-) terminal.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.

6. Connect the red

positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other

end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent

electrical shorting. Take care that they don't touch each other or any other metal.

9. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The elecbical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.

If it won't start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

Towing Your Car Try to have a GM dealer or a professional towing service tow your Buick . The usual towing equipment is a sling-type (A) or a wheel lift (B) or car carrier (C) tow truck.

If your vehicle has been changed or modified since it was factory-new by adding aftermarket items like fog lamps, aero skirting, or special tires and wheels, these instructions and illustrations may not be correct. Before you do anything, turn on the hazard warning flashers. When you call, tell the towing service:

That your vehicle has front-wheel drive. The make, model, and year of your vehicle. Whether you can still move the shift lever. If there was an accident, what was damaged.

When the towing service arrives, let the tow operator know that this manual contains detailed towing instructions and illustrations. The operator may want to see them.

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r /r\ CAUTION:

To help avoid injury to you or others: 0 Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that

0 Never tow faster than safe or posted

is being towed.

speeds.

0 Never get under your vehicle after it has

been lifted by a tow truck.

0 Always use separate safety chains on each

side when ?owing a vehicle.