2005 Buick Lacrosse Owners Manual

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1. With the engine off, turn the ignition key to RUN. 2. Fully press and release the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ﬁve seconds. 3. Turn the key to OFF, then start the vehicle. If the light or message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the ﬁlter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter 3.6L V6 engine shown, 3.8L V6 engine similar The engine air cleaner/ﬁlter is located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 5-19 When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace at the ﬁrst oil change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the ﬁlter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/ﬁlter, remove the ﬁlter from the vehicle and lightly shake the ﬁlter to release loose dust and dirt. If the ﬁlter remains caked with dirt, a new ﬁlter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter do the following: 1. Lift the ﬁlter cover tabs on top of the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter housing. 2. Push the ﬁlter cover housing toward the engine. 3. Pull out the ﬁlter. 4. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/ﬁlter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. 5. To reinstall the cover, position the tabs through the slots on the housing. A notch on the sides of the ﬁlter cover will indicate the correct engagement. 6. Push the cover tabs on top of the housing to lock the cover in place. {CAUTION: Operating the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop ﬂame if the engine backﬁres. If it is not there and the engine backﬁres, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/ﬁlter off. If the air cleaner/ﬁlter is off, a backﬁre can Notice: cause a damaging engine ﬁre. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/ﬁlter in place when you are driving. 5-20 Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission ﬂuid level. A transmission ﬂuid leak is the only reason for ﬂuid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to the dealership service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change both the ﬂuid and ﬁlter every 50,000 miles (83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher. In hilly or mountainous terrain. (cid:127) When doing frequent trailer towing. (cid:127) Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service. If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the ﬂuid and ﬁlter do not require changing. Notice: Use of automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled other than DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation, may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use automatic transmission ﬂuid labeled DEXRON®-III, Approved for the H-Speciﬁcation. Engine Coolant The cooling system in the vehicle is ﬁlled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in the vehicle for ﬁve years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs ﬁrst, if only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant is added. The following explains the cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If there is a problem with engine overheating or if coolant needs to be added to the radiator, see Engine Overheating on page 5-24. A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down to −34°F (−37°C). (cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. Let the warning lights and gages work as they should. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-21 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® engine coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If this coolant mixture is used, nothing else needs to be added. {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you use the proper coolant, you do not If coolant needs to be added more than four times a year, have your dealer check the cooling system. Notice: have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful. Checking Coolant The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment toward the rear of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 3.8L V6 engine shown, 3.6L V6 engine similar If you use an improper coolant mixture, Notice: your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. The vehicle must be on a level surface when checking the coolant level. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the cold ﬁll line or a little higher. The cold ﬁll line is near the bottom of the surge tank and has an arrow pointing down at it. 5-22 Adding Coolant If more coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it. If the coolant recovery tank is completely empty, add coolant to the radiator. See Engine Overheating on page 5-24. {CAUTION: Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot. {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see Cooling System on page 5-26. 5-23 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine {CAUTION: Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch ﬁre. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-26 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Radiator Pressure Cap Notice: The radiator cap on your vehicle is a pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overﬂow tube on the radiator ﬁller neck. The radiator pressure cap is located in the front of the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. Engine Overheating There is a coolant temperature gage and a warning light on the instrument panel cluster that indicate an overheated engine condition. See Engine Coolant Temperature Gage on page 3-38 and Engine Coolant Temperature Warning Light on page 3-38 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), you will ﬁnd an ENGINE COOLANT HOT and a REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message displayed on the DIC. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. 5-24 If your engine catches ﬁre because you Notice: keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-26 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer. If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle. 2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting and fan speed and open the windows as necessary. If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode” later in this section. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away. 5-25 (cid:127) (cid:127) Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation. If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat protection mode which alternates ﬁring groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a signiﬁcant loss in power and engine performance. The REDUCED POWER STOP WHEN SAFE message will come on in the Driver Information Center (DIC), along with the engine coolant temperature warning light on the instrument panel, to indicate the vehicle has entered overheated engine protection operating mode. The temperature gage will also indicate an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the oil life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-15. 5-26 Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see: 3.8L V6 engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans 3.6L V6 engine A. Coolant Recovery Tank B. Radiator Pressure Cap C. Electric Engine Cooling Fans {CAUTION: An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. 5-27 When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the cold ﬁll line on the coolant recovery tank. If it is not, there may be a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump, or somewhere else in the cooling system. {CAUTION: Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine ﬁre, and you could be burned. Get any leak ﬁxed before you drive the vehicle. If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, the fans should be running. If the fans are not running, the vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-26 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs ﬁrst. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle. 5-28 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank {CAUTION: Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch ﬁre and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant. If you have not found a problem yet, but the coolant level is not at the cold ﬁll line, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See Engine Coolant on page 5-21 for more information. Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture. In cold weather, water can freeze and crack {CAUTION: You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine. When the coolant level in the coolant recovery tank is at the cold ﬁll line, start the vehicle. 5-29 If the overheat warning continues, there is one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the system is cool before you do it. {CAUTION: Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap. How to Add Coolant to the Radiator Notice: Your engine has a speciﬁc radiator ﬁll procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could cause your engine to overheat and be severely damaged. 1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it ﬁrst stops. Do not press down while turning the pressure cap. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left. 2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap. 5-30 3. If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine, open the coolant air bleed valve located on the thermostat housing near the heater hose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. 4. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture, up to the base of the ﬁller neck. See Engine Coolant on page 5-21 for more information about the proper coolant mixture. If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine and you see a stream of coolant coming from the air bleed valve, close the valve. Otherwise, close the valve after the radiator is ﬁlled. 5. Rinse or wipe any spilled coolant from the engine and the compartment. 6. Then ﬁll the coolant recovery tank to the cold ﬁll line. 7. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off. 3.8L V6 engine 3.8L V6 engine shown, 3.6L V6 engine similar 5-31 9. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator ﬁller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture through the ﬁller neck until the level reaches the base of the ﬁller neck. 10. Then replace the radiator pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to ﬂow out of the ﬁller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. 11. Check the coolant in the recovery tank. The level in the coolant recovery tank should be at the cold ﬁll line when the engine is cold. 3.8L V6 engine shown, 3.6L V6 engine similar 8. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. 5-32 Power Steering Fluid See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering ﬂuid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A ﬂuid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering ﬂuid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment cool down. 2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. 4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the ﬂuid level on the dipstick. If your vehicle has the 3.8L V6 engine, the ﬂuid level should be between the ADD and HOT marks when the engine is cold, and at the HOT mark when the engine is hot. If the ﬂuid is at the ADD mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering ﬂuid should be added. If your vehicle has the 3.6L V6 engine, the ﬂuid level should be between the Min and Max marks when the engine is cold, and at the Max mark when the engine is hot. If the ﬂuid is at the Min mark when the engine is cold or hot, power steering ﬂuid should be added. What to Use To determine what kind of ﬂuid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always use the proper ﬂuid. Failure to use the proper ﬂuid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals. 5-33 Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer ﬂuid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a ﬂuid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid When the windshield washer ﬂuid is low, a low washer ﬂuid light may appear on the instrument panel cluster. See Low Washer Fluid Warning Light on page 3-45 for more information. In addition, if your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), the LOW WASHER FLUID message will appear when the ﬂuid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-53 for more information. 5-34 Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer ﬂuid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location. Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer ﬂuid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water. (cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer ﬂuid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer ﬂuid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer ﬂuid. Fill your washer ﬂuid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full. (cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint. (cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid Your brake master cylinder reservoir is ﬁlled with DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake ﬂuid level in the reservoir might go down. The ﬁrst is that the brake ﬂuid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the ﬂuid level goes back up. The other reason is that ﬂuid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system ﬁxed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all. So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake ﬂuid. Adding brake ﬂuid will not correct a leak. If you add ﬂuid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much ﬂuid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake ﬂuid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. {CAUTION: If you have too much brake ﬂuid, it can spill on the engine. The ﬂuid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake ﬂuid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. When your brake ﬂuid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-36. 5-35 What to Add When you do need brake ﬂuid, use only DOT-3 brake ﬂuid. Use new brake ﬂuid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12. Always clean the brake ﬂuid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir. {CAUTION: With the wrong kind of ﬂuid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake ﬂuid. Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong ﬂuid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of ﬂuid. If you spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint ﬁnish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake ﬂuid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance Care on page 5-78. Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal ﬁrmly. 5-36 (cid:127) {CAUTION: The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced. Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are ﬁrst applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque speciﬁcations. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear. Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts. 5-37 Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling. If the battery has a very low charge or is dead, you may not be able to remove the ignition key from the ignition switch or shift out of PARK (P). Refer to Shifting Out of Park (P) on page 2-29. Vehicle Storage If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down. {CAUTION: Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-39 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt. 5-38 Jump Starting If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely. {CAUTION: Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because: (cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode (cid:127) They contain enough electricity to or ignite. burn you. If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you. Ignoring these steps could result in costly Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt battery with a negative ground system. If the other vehicles system is not a 12-volt Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake ﬁrmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL (N) before setting the parking brake. If you leave your radio or other accessories Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio! 5-39 4. Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. You will not use your vehicle’s battery for jump starting. It has a remote positive (+) jump starting terminal, located on the underhood fuse block, for that purpose. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on location. {CAUTION: An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. To uncover the remote positive (+) terminal, press the tab at the bottom of the fuse block and lift the cover up. {CAUTION: Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running. 3.8L V6 engine shown, 3.6L V6 engine similar Always use the remote positive (+) terminal instead of the positive (+) terminal on the battery. 5-40 the vehicle has one. Negative will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−), or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks. {CAUTION: Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a ﬂashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has ﬁller caps, be sure the right amount of ﬂuid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that ﬁrst. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery ﬂuid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, ﬂush the place with water and get medical help immediately. 5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if 3.8L V6 engine shown, 3.6L V6 engine similar 6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 5-41 7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. 8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle with the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (–) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery. 9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. 10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while. 11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service. 5-42 If the jumper cables are connected or Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal. Jumper Cable Removal A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery. 2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery. 4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle. 5. Return the fuse block cover to its original position. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment However, If the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles ﬂash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure. The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other ﬂat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud on it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done. The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inﬂated. Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. The vertical headlamp aiming screws are located under the hood near the headlamps. 5-43 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) 2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the lamp. Record the distance. 3. At the wall or other ﬂat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2 and draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm male hex. To adjust the vertical aim on the headlamps, do the following: 1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam lamp. 5-44 4. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the ﬂat surface. Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 5. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the opposite headlamp. Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-50. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer. Halogen Bulbs {CAUTION: Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package. 5-45 Headlamps and Sidemarker Lamps A. Sidemarker Lamp B. Low-Beam Headlamp C. High-Beam Headlamp Low-Beam Headlamp and Sidemarker Bulbs To replace a low-beam headlamp or sidemarker bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Remove the fastener from the front fascia. The fastener is located inboard of the headlamp assembly, near the high-beam headlamp. 5-46 3. Pull up on the plastic retaining clip (C) while pushing rearward on the headlamp. Align the square cut-out on the retaining clip with the notch on the headlamp. 4. Remove the screw (A) from the metal headlamp retainer to pull up and release the headlamp assembly. 5. Remove the push pin (B) retaining the front fascia. 6. Pull back on the front fascia and then pull the headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Moving the headlamp up and down slightly may help with its removal. You may have someone assist you with this step. 7. Remove the access cover from behind the bulb being replaced. 8. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter of a turn to remove it from the headlamp assembly. 9. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 10. Replace with a new bulb. 11. Reverse all the steps to reassemble the headlamp assembly. When replacing the plastic retaining clip, push down on it while pushing rearward on the headlamp, making sure the headlamp assembly is secure. High-Beam Headlamp Bulbs To replace the high-beam headlamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11 for more information. 2. Locate the high-beam headlamp bulb socket. 3. Remove the access cover from behind the bulb being replaced. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it from the headlamp assembly. 5. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 6. Replace with a new bulb. 7. Reverse Steps 2 through 4 to reinstall. Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps To replace a front turn signal/parking lamp bulb in the front fascia, do the following: 1. Locate the front turn signal/parking bulb socket by reaching behind the front bumper. 2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the assembly. 3. Holding the base of the socket, pull the old bulb from the socket. 4. Push the new bulb into the socket. 5. Reverse Steps 1 through 3 to reinstall. 5-47 Fog Lamps Your vehicle may have fog lamps. To replace a fog lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Locate the access door in the splash shield. It is located behind the front fascia. To do this, reach up under and behind the front fascia. 2. Open the access door. 3. Locate the fog lamp bulb socket. 4. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise one-quarter of a turn while pressing the socket in ﬁrmly. 5. Pull the socket rearward until the bulb socket clears the fog lamp housing. 7. Remove the bulb assembly and replace it with the appropriate bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the fog lamp bulb socket. Taillamps, Turn Signal, Sidemarker, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps To replace a taillamp, turn signal, sidemarker, stoplamp or back-up lamp bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for more information. 2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle has one. 6. Disconnect the wire connector from the bulb by lifting the lock tab and pulling it away from the plastic base. 5-48 3. Remove the four plastic wing nuts retaining the trunk trim. There are two wing nuts located on the driver’s side (shown) and two located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. 4. Pull back the trunk trim. 5. Remove the two wing nuts holding the taillamp assembly in place. 6. Pull out the taillamp assembly and disconnect the wiring harness. 5-49 Replacement Bulbs Exterior Lamps Bulb Number Back-Up Lamps Fog Lamp Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps Headlamps High-Beam Low-Beam Front/Rear Sidemarker and Taillamp Stoplamps and Taillamps 921 H11 3157NAK H9 H11 194 3057 For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer. Signal D. Stoplamp/Taillamp/Turn A. Taillamp B. Back-up C. Taillamp 7. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it. 8. Replace with a new bulb. 9. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall. 10. Reverse these steps to reinstall the E. Sidemarker taillamp assembly. 5-50 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking each time maintenance is performed. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. 1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until is facing away from the windshield. 2. Push the release lever under the windshield wiper arm, and slide the wiper assembly off of the wiper arm. 3. Slide the new wiper blade securely on the wiper arm until you hear the release clip click into place. For wiper blade type and length, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-13. 5-51 CAUTION: (Continued) (cid:127) Underinﬂated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (cid:127) Overinﬂated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure. (cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them. Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner Manual. {CAUTION: Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous. (cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-52 Tire Sidewall Labelling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example (A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to deﬁne a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail. (B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-63. (G) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. 5-53 (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (C) Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (D) Maximum Cold Inﬂation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load. (E) Tire Inﬂation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inﬂated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inﬂation see Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. (F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers deﬁne a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only. (G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s speciﬁc tire performance criteria have a TPC speciﬁcation code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC speciﬁcations meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Compact Spare Tire Example (A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone ﬂat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-67. 5-54 Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size. (A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the ﬁrst character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction. (E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches. (F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certiﬁed to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certiﬁed to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z. Tire Terminology and Deﬁnitions Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascal (kPa). Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning. 5-55 Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width. GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials. Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim. Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Cold Inﬂation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58. Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo. DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identiﬁcation Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production. GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. KiloPascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inﬂation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inﬂated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inﬂation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight. 5-56 Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions. Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inﬂation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inﬂation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inﬂation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided. Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road. Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-61. UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-63. 5-57 Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inﬂation or over-inﬂation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inﬂation), you can get the following: Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight. Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inﬂation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. Inﬂation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Too much ﬂexing Too much heat Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inﬂation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards 5-58 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar), below the driver’s door latch. This label shows your vehicle’s original equipment tires and the correct inﬂation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inﬂation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inﬂated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inﬂated even when they are under-inﬂated. Check the tire’s inﬂation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage ﬁrmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inﬂation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inﬂation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overﬁll the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture. 5-59 Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-61 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-65 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The ﬁrst rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4. When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. 5-60 Do not include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inﬂation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-92. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-68. When It Is Time for New Tires One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining. You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire. (cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage. 5-61 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Buying New Tires To ﬁnd out what kind and size of tires your vehicle needs, look at the tire and loading information label. For more information about this label and its location on your vehicle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29. The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Speciﬁcation (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, GM recommends that you get tires with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud and snow). If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires. 5-62 {CAUTION: Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels. It’s all right to drive with your compact spare temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77. {CAUTION: If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim ﬂanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle. Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart signiﬁcantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on speciﬁed government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics. 5-63 Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a speciﬁed indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inﬂated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinﬂation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure. Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis. 5-64 Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces. If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle. {CAUTION: Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement. Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire on page 5-68 for more information. 5-65 Used Replacement Wheels {CAUTION: Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel. Tire Chains {CAUTION: If your vehicle has P225/55R17 size tires, do not use tire chains, there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. CAUTION: (Continued) 5-66 CAUTION: (Continued) Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do ﬁnd traction devices that will ﬁt, install them on the front tires. Notice: If your vehicle has a tire size other than P225/55R17 size tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle. If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the ﬂat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel ﬁrmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane. A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you would; use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible. {CAUTION: Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a ﬂat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a ﬂat tire. If a tire goes ﬂat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a ﬂat tire safely. 5-67 Changing a Flat Tire If a tire goes ﬂat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your vehicle’s hazard warning ﬂashers. When your vehicle has a ﬂat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks. {CAUTION: Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving: 1. Set the parking brake ﬁrmly. 2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P). 3. Turn off the engine and do not restart while the vehicle is raised. 4. Do not allow passengers to remain in the vehicle. To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you should put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire, on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle. 5-68 The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire. Removing the Spare Tire and Tools The equipment you will need is located in the trunk. 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-13 for more information. 2. Remove the convenience net if the vehicle has one. 3. Lift the handle on the spare tire cover. The handle may hook on the front edge of the trunk’s weatherstrip to hold the cover out of the way. 4. Turn the wing nut counterclockwise and remove it. 5. Remove the compact spare tire. 5-69 6. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the jack and wrench. The tools needed to change a tire include the jack (A), extension and protection guide (B, and wheel wrench (C). 5-70 Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire If your vehicle has wheel covers with center caps, the wheel nuts are hidden behind the cap. The center cap must be removed before you can remove the ﬂat tire and install the spare tire. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the plastic nut caps in a counterclockwise direction. If needed, ﬁnish loosening them by hand. The nut caps will not come off. Then, using the ﬂat end of the wheel wrench, pry along the edge of the wheel cover until it comes off. Be careful; the edge may be sharp. Do not try to remove the cover with your bare hands. Once you have removed the center cap or wheel cover, use the following procedure to remove the ﬂat tire and install the spare tire. To remove a center cap, use the wrench to pry gently at the notch on the cap. Do not use a tool that is narrower than the wrench to pry at this notch. Then pry off the cap. 1. Place the wheel wrench securely over the wheel nut. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to loosen all the wheel nuts, but do no remove them yet. 5-71 2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack lift head. {CAUTION: Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack. {CAUTION: Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to ﬁt the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle. 3. Find the jacking location using the diagram above and corresponding hoisting notches located on the underside of the vehicle’s plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you ﬁnd them. The front location is about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well. The rear location is about 9 inches (22.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well. 4. Put the compact spare tire near you. 5-72 5. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to ﬁt under the vehicle. 6. Remove all wheel nuts and take off the ﬂat tire. {CAUTION: Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. 7. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel. 5-73 8. Install the compact spare tire. {CAUTION: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident. 9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. 5-74 10. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely. {CAUTION: Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts. Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-92 for wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead Notice: to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque speciﬁcation. See Capacities and Speciﬁcations on page 5-92 for the wheel nut torque speciﬁcation. 11. Tighten the wheel nuts ﬁrmly in a crisscross sequence as shown. Notice: Wheel covers will not ﬁt on your compact spare. If you try to put a wheel cover on the compact spare, you could damage the cover or the spare. Do not try to put the wheel cover on the compact spare tire. It will not ﬁt. Store the wheel cover in the trunk until you have the ﬂat tire repaired or replaced. 5-75 Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools {CAUTION: Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place. After the compact spare tire has been installed on the vehicle, store the ﬂat tire in the trunk. Use the following procedure to secure the ﬂat tire in the trunk. When storing a full-size tire, use the extension with the protector, located in the foam holder, to help avoid wheel surface damage. To store a full-size tire, place the tire valve stem facing down, and then remove the protector and attach the retainer securely. Store the cover as far forward as possible. When storing a compact spare tire in the trunk, put the protector back in the foam holder. The compact spare is for temporary use only. Replace the compact spare tire with a full-size tire as soon as you can. See Compact Spare Tire on page 5-77. See the storage instructions label to return the compact spare to the trunk properly. 5-76 A. Cover B. Wing Nut C. Compact Spare Tire D. Wing Nut E. Jack F. Wheel Wrench G. Extension Protector H. Bolt Screw I. Foam Holder Compact Spare Tire Although the compact spare tire was fully inﬂated when the vehicle was new, it can lose air after a time. Check the inﬂation pressure regularly. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa). After installing the compact spare on the vehicle, check to make sure it is correctly inﬂated. The compact spare is made to perform well at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). However, it is best to replace the compact spare with a full-size tire as soon as possible. The spare will last longer and be in good shape in case it is needed again. Notice: When the compact spare is installed, do not take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle. Do not use the compact spare on other vehicles. Do not mix the compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires. They will not ﬁt. Keep the spare tire and its wheel together. Notice: Tire chains will not ﬁt your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Do not use tire chains on your compact spare. 5-77 Appearance Care Cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Other cleaning products can burst into ﬂames if a match is struck near them or if they get on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if their fumes are inhaled in an enclosed space. When anything from a container is used to clean the vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. Always open the doors or windows of the vehicle when cleaning the inside. Never use these to clean the vehicle: (cid:127) Gasoline (cid:127) Benzene (cid:127) Naphtha (cid:127) Carbon Tetrachloride (cid:127) Acetone (cid:127) Paint Thinner Turpentine Lacquer Thinner (cid:127) Nail Polish Remover They can all be hazardous — some more than others — and they can all damage the vehicle, too. Do not use any of these products unless this manual says you can. In many uses, these will damage the vehicle: (cid:127) Alcohol Laundry Soap (cid:127) Bleach (cid:127) Reducing Agents Fabric/Carpet Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic, and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth. GM-approved cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer. Here are some cleaning tips: (cid:127) Always read the instructions on the cleaner label. (cid:127) Clean up stains as soon as you can before they set. (cid:127) Carefully scrape off any excess stain. (cid:127) Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn. To avoid forming a ring on the fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set. 5-78 (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) Most stains can be removed with club soda water. To clean, use the following instructions: 1. For liquids: blot with a clean, soft, white cloth. For solids: remove as much as possible and then vacuum or brush. 2. Apply club soda water to a clean, soft, white cloth. Do not over-saturate; the cloth should not drip water. 3. Clean the entire area. Avoid getting the fabric too wet. 4. Start cleaning from the seams into the stain to avoid a ring effect. 5. Continue cleaning, using a clean area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled. 6. When the stain is removed, blot the cleaned area with another dry, clean, soft, white cloth.

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2005 Buick Lacrosse Owners Manual