Help With Fitting Turbo Or Conversion - RB25DE motor...in GTS skyline  

Hamish4danielle
  • Hamish4danielle
  • rb25det r32
  • Member No.: 62,921
  • Joined: 26-February 07
  • Posts: 2,561
  • From: Carindale, Queensland
Post #1 post 8th May 2007 - 08:53 PM
Hey guys wondering if anyone could help me here, i have a 1995 nissan skyline RB25DE GTS and well i love it n all but, it would be so much better boosted up! so i am not sure wheather it would be better ot turbo the N/A engine or transplant a RB25DET straight into her?

Recommendations/Help

Cheers guys Regards Hamish rant2.gif

--------------------
- 1992 Holden VP Commodore 3.8 V6
- 1998 R32 (4door) rb20det
- 1990 S13 rb20det, cage etc (ex Nizzpro drift car)
- 1995 Nissan Skyline HR33 The Lean Mean Green Machine
Current Ride
- 1990 r32 gts-t - with rb25det conversion

NEED ANY JAP PART (mostly skyline & silvia) PM me or 0419761510
tim510
Post #2

sell your car and a buy a turbo one.


they have better brakes, better diffs, the engines are designed to be turbo charged and it will be cheaper.

Rancher
Post #3

As Tim has just said. Sell it, and buy a turbo one.

GTS's have 4 stud small brakes. Crappy diffs, even worse gearbox's. No oil squirters in the block, so everythign will get hot.

If your adamant on doing it. To 'legaly' get it mod plated you need to do a suspension and brake upgrade from the car the motor came from.

It would be better to just transplant an RB25DET into it.

With turbo'ing the NA engine. You will need the,
Turbo,
exh manifold,
oil and coolant plugs in the block (Or do it dodgy and take the oil from the oil press sender, and the coolant from a heater hose)
Piggy back computer of some sort, as the ECU and AFM would have a fit with so much air being passed through the AFM. And positive press in the intake manifold.

Even after all of that, you couldnt run super dooper boost anyway, You'd put a foot out of bed becuase of the naturally high NA compression.

Work out the cost of it all. You'd probably find you will be able to sell your car + the cost to turbo it, would = an R33 GTS-t.

09ONE
Post #4

Whats been said above is pretty spot on (except RB oil squirters) but if you are only looking for a mild upgrade and aren't going to go too wild, then you can turbo the RB25DE.

With the highish static compression ratio you would make good torque from down low and spool a turbo quickly.

unarmed_skyline
Post #5

i've driven heaps of turbo skylines, and i got a na as i was on my p's then i did a turbo conversion ended up around the same cost as swaping a turbo motor except the you have to outlay more money to buy the engien which u get back when selling the na, na +t's are way more responsive i couldnt feel ANY turbo lag it was instant boost and at 5psi with a microtech stock turbo and stock na exhaust i canned a gtst with safc big exhuast 10psi, you can safely run up to 10 but never go over,
i say do it you will love it especially when the na cam kicks in at 5000 rpm and throws you back, go to sau and have a read about it its been done may times

Hamish4danielle
Post #6

QUOTE(unarmed_skyline @ May 10 2007, 08:09 PM) [snapback]1281046087[/snapback]

i've driven heaps of turbo skylines, and i got a na as i was on my p's then i did a turbo conversion ended up around the same cost as swaping a turbo motor except the you have to outlay more money to buy the engien which u get back when selling the na, na +t's are way more responsive i couldnt feel ANY turbo lag it was instant boost and at 5psi with a microtech stock turbo and stock na exhaust i canned a gtst with safc big exhuast 10psi, you can safely run up to 10 but never go over,
i say do it you will love it especially when the na cam kicks in at 5000 rpm and throws you back, go to sau and have a read about it its been done may times


Cheers man do you think you could show me a link, i am a little confused but i get the drift that you're sayin to turbo the NA engine wouldn be suh a bad idea if running under 10psi through it? i love the car with its custom look and it is clean from front to back just want to snail it.. so thank-you for you r advice and if you could show me a link to sau it would be apprieciatred.. cheers H hsdance.gif

JamieQ
Post #7

I also own a GTS Hamish4danielle its about to be turbo charged.

Heres the Skylines australia link, about turbocharging a Na.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=33407&hl=

TwinCam16
Post #8

People always jump on the "just sell it" band wagon...

Just ignore it and move on.

Doing a +t will be ALOT more responsive than a DET outright anyway, if your not looking for bullshit high power, this would be the way to go.

Hamish4danielle
Post #9

cheers man, i think it sounds good to, running 10psi max

TwinCam16
Post #10

It's not a case of limiting to "X" boost.

You have to remember, 7 psi on a high comp motor is the same "basicly" as 14 or so on a low comp motor.

The main thing you have to look / listen for is detonation.

Having a knock meter is going the be the best purchase as far as insurance you can ever have with a boosted high comp motor.

Keep the detonation to a minimum and get the timming right and there is no reason why the motor wont last.

Hamish4danielle
Post #11

QUOTE(TwinCam16 @ Jun 9 2007, 10:42 PM) [snapback]1281141663[/snapback]

It's not a case of limiting to "X" boost.

You have to remember, 7 psi on a high comp motor is the same "basicly" as 14 or so on a low comp motor.

The main thing you have to look / listen for is detonation.

Having a knock meter is going the be the best purchase as far as insurance you can ever have with a boosted high comp motor.

Keep the detonation to a minimum and get the timming right and there is no reason why the motor wont last.


yeah agree with the high comp/low comp differences because i understand the DE was built for no boost and the DET obviously for boost, what is a knock meter? detonation?

Hamish

TwinCam16
Post #12

Exactly that, the knock meter gives you an idication of the detonation that is going on.

sussba
Post #13

i like the way u think twincam

as said if ur not after big power go for it but get a managment system so it can be tuned for it i think from memory the rb25de can withstand about 250rwkw and then brakes rod bolts its not so much how much boost u run its about how much power u want u can run 15psi from 1500rpm to say 4000 or 5000 and as the revs come up start backing it off alot of after market computers can control boost like that

get it tuned safe and u will hava nice streater with reasonable drivable power

Hamish4danielle
Post #14

Sussba and twincam16, you guys have been of great help, so you think it is worth turbocharging the high comp n/a engine? as long as it is all done correctly i should have reasonable power and good realiability? I have started to get parts for the conversion slowly? any idea's on what size turbo? Hamish

sussba
Post #15

dont worry bout going to big cos u dont wont to much power id just go a standard turbo and exaust manifold and nice and cheap nice drivably power

TwinCam16
Post #16

^ bingo.

I have done it both ways in regards to management.

My first sr20de+t only lasted about 12 months before it spun a big end. On that motor i had the standard ecu with just larger injectors, basicly making it run rich as. never had a problem with leaning out, thats for sure. The side effect was, running so rich cause the side of the bore to have the oil washed away from so much petrol being in there as well, contaminating the oil and killing rings then taking it toll on the oil pump, no oil pressure and the rest is history.

This time round i am running the same setup, altho, having a Greedy emanage controling the show, not only is it alot more driveable, but due to not running over rich, makes more power than last time as well and feels more stronger.

There is no reason why, in your situation, you cant get yourself an r33 turbo, manifold, and injectors, jump onto ebay and get a dump and front pipe, this will mate up to your stock cat converter, if your budget is tight, just leave the stock exhaust for the time being and focus on the engine management.

Take the turbo down to pirtek and get an oil feed line made out of braided hose long enough to go from your oil pressure switch to the turbo, use a T on the oil switch to give your a place to hook up the line to the motor. Drill an oil return in the sump and weld on a simple fitting.

Tap the water lines from the throttle body and run them to the turbo to keep the thing cool.

Jump back onto ebay and pick yaself up a hybrid type cooler and pipe kit.

While all this is going on, keep an eye out for an emanage, i picked mine up just by keeping my eyes open real cheap.

Thats basicly all you need, sure, you can put a bov on, full 3" system etc etc, but its all optional. The beauty of using the stock r33 gear is, most owners are upgrading these items all the time and just selling it off cheap, perfect for people doing the +t conversions.

Basic run down in price from what i estimate is
- Turbo 200
- Manifold 50
- injectors 100
- Dump 100
- Front pipe 100
- Intercooler 140
- Pipe kit 150
- Oil feed 120
- Emanage 300
- Randoms 100

So for arround 1300 bucks + tune you have it all done... and will make more power than the rb25det with the same mods.

If you get a decent tune, you should get prolly a fraction over 200 rwkw with that setup...

That will wake your car up smile.gif

Hamish4danielle
Post #17

QUOTE(TwinCam16 @ Jun 13 2007, 08:15 PM) [snapback]1281152904[/snapback]

^ bingo.

I have done it both ways in regards to management.

My first sr20de+t only lasted about 12 months before it spun a big end. On that motor i had the standard ecu with just larger injectors, basicly making it run rich as. never had a problem with leaning out, thats for sure. The side effect was, running so rich cause the side of the bore to have the oil washed away from so much petrol being in there as well, contaminating the oil and killing rings then taking it toll on the oil pump, no oil pressure and the rest is history.

This time round i am running the same setup, altho, having a Greedy emanage controling the show, not only is it alot more driveable, but due to not running over rich, makes more power than last time as well and feels more stronger.

There is no reason why, in your situation, you cant get yourself an r33 turbo, manifold, and injectors, jump onto ebay and get a dump and front pipe, this will mate up to your stock cat converter, if your budget is tight, just leave the stock exhaust for the time being and focus on the engine management.

Take the turbo down to pirtek and get an oil feed line made out of braided hose long enough to go from your oil pressure switch to the turbo, use a T on the oil switch to give your a place to hook up the line to the motor. Drill an oil return in the sump and weld on a simple fitting.

Tap the water lines from the throttle body and run them to the turbo to keep the thing cool.

Jump back onto ebay and pick yaself up a hybrid type cooler and pipe kit.

While all this is going on, keep an eye out for an emanage, i picked mine up just by keeping my eyes open real cheap.

Thats basicly all you need, sure, you can put a bov on, full 3" system etc etc, but its all optional. The beauty of using the stock r33 gear is, most owners are upgrading these items all the time and just selling it off cheap, perfect for people doing the +t conversions.

Basic run down in price from what i estimate is
- Turbo 200
- Manifold 50
- injectors 100
- Dump 100
- Front pipe 100
- Intercooler 140
- Pipe kit 150
- Oil feed 120
- Emanage 300
- Randoms 100

So for arround 1300 bucks + tune you have it all done... and will make more power than the rb25det with the same mods.

If you get a decent tune, you should get prolly a fraction over 200 rwkw with that setup...

That will wake your car up smile.gif


Sounds good man, perfect way of breaking it down, you live in holland park correct? i live just down the roa in carindale so when i get round to it think you could show me a few things dosen't sound too hard..i'm trying to buy the parts week by week now...regards hamish

DOp i have to have it checked or mod platted at all??

Hamish

Rookie ROX
Post #18

Depends

No it wouldn't if you were only using stock Skyline parts, yes it would if you were using aftermarket parts.

"A turbocharger (or supercharger) installation does not require certification, only if the installation is available as an option from the original vehicle manufacturer. All vehicle components that were supplied by the manufacturer as part of the original specification for the turbocharged vehicle must also be fitted."

ROCK ON
R~R

metalhead
Post #19

Yes, but that also means he would have to upgrade his brakes and/or anything else that was different on the turbo models (I'm not very familiar with Skylines).

Hamish4danielle
Post #20

YEah metalhead i agree therefore i would have to upgrade brakes and anything else to comply with the gts-t model...

H@me

summoner
Post #21

QUOTE(TwinCam16 @ Jun 6 2007, 10:55 PM) [snapback]1281133667[/snapback]

People always jump on the "just sell it" band wagon...

Just ignore it and move on.

Doing a +t will be ALOT more responsive than a DET outright anyway, if your not looking for bullshit high power, this would be the way to go.


yes and there is a reason people say "just sell it and get a turbo"

I am sure you know the reasons too but let us just go over them since you made such a compelling arguement. Some reasons are cosmetic others performance.

Turbo's are 5 stud, therefore much larger choice of rims to choose from
Turbo's run larger brakes all round, as the saying goes 1 can never have too good a braking system(especially if making a car faster.. something many forget)
the RB25DET has lower compression, yes will not be as responsive but it will last longer to boosted mods(perhaps negligible time frame for most but still a valid point).
The RB25DET(MX72) gearbox is a very strong unit, from memmory the N/A box resembles more the RB20 box which has fragile 3rd+ gears.
Legality, many people in the QLD car scene like to do things on the cheap, including getting items mod plated therefore having a turbo car already will save the hassle of getting approval.

There are many more differances i'm sure which owners of these cars can point out but those spring to mind.

Will turbo'ing the N/A work? yes of course it will aslong as you do it properly.. would I personally recommend it? no. But everyone is differant so do as you wish.

Hamish4danielle
Post #22

QUOTE(summoner @ Jun 22 2007, 08:24 AM) [snapback]1281177363[/snapback]

yes and there is a reason people say "just sell it and get a turbo"

I am sure you know the reasons too but let us just go over them since you made such a compelling arguement. Some reasons are cosmetic others performance.

Turbo's are 5 stud, therefore much larger choice of rims to choose from
Turbo's run larger brakes all round, as the saying goes 1 can never have too good a braking system(especially if making a car faster.. something many forget)
the RB25DET has lower compression, yes will not be as responsive but it will last longer to boosted mods(perhaps negligible time frame for most but still a valid point).
The RB25DET(MX72) gearbox is a very strong unit, from memmory the N/A box resembles more the RB20 box which has fragile 3rd+ gears.
Legality, many people in the QLD car scene like to do things on the cheap, including getting items mod plated therefore having a turbo car already will save the hassle of getting approval.

There are many more differances i'm sure which owners of these cars can point out but those spring to mind.

Will turbo'ing the N/A work? yes of course it will aslong as you do it properly.. would I personally recommend it? no. But everyone is differant so do as you wish.


Well thank you for pointing those differences out my build plan is as followed in small detail:
GTST ECU - for now
BREMBO Brakes all around
t3/t4 turbo - maybe standard s2 gtst turbo
running 7psi max
My gear box has a heavy duty clutch..this still may not fix the gear box problem but it a start
And i have been told if i use standard parts from the skyline 33 series i will not have to have it approved..
as stated earier -- A turbocharger (or supercharger) installation does not require certification, only if the installation is available as an option from the original vehicle manufacturer. All vehicle components that were supplied by the manufacturer as part of the original specification for the turbocharged vehicle must also be fitted."
But we'll see what happens i am trying to accumulate parts slowly...
ALl in all its a learning experience for me and anyone who reads this thread so please don;t hesitate to let me know your personal opinion once again thank-you sommoner

smiley
Post #23

i]A turbocharger (or supercharger) installation does not require certification, only if the installation is available as an option from the original vehicle manufacturer. All vehicle components that were supplied by the manufacturer as part of the original specification for the turbocharged vehicle must also be fitted."[/i]

That means that you have to change the brakes, diff and all that shit too... it will cost you more to buy all the extra shit yo need rather than just getting a mod plate... most places see the gts brakes sufficient enough to stop a turbo rb25... people put rb20dets in ca18de silvias without changing brakes and get it plated...

Rookie ROX
Post #24

QUOTE(metalhead @ Jun 20 2007, 03:32 PM) [snapback]1281172549[/snapback]

Yes, but that also means he would have to upgrade his brakes and/or anything else that was different on the turbo models (I'm not very familiar with Skylines).


Yes that's correct, but I gave the topic starter the added bonus of assuming he was smart enough to know he'd have to do it anyway, which I've apparantly been right in guessing wink.gif

Threadstarter - Keep in mind that if you don't use the standard GTST turbo (which it sounds like you're planning on doing) you WILL have to get it mod plated, because it won't be deemed a manufacturer part. Only $100 anyway, keeps everyone happy.

ROCK ON
R~R

Hamish4danielle
Post #25

Thank you R~R i'll keep that ib mind not as expensive as i thought...
Regards Hamish

Rookie ROX
Post #26

Differs according to who does it, but general price is around $100 per plate, usually they'll discount for every plate after if you do multiple at the same time.

ROCK ON
R~R

JamieQ
Post #27

Hamish ive dropped a DEt into mine, Rb25DEt droped in for 7500 on 13psi and i love it , now its getting a 4 to 5 stud conversion so i can get some nice brambos.

Hamish4danielle
Post #28

QUOTE(JamieQ @ Jul 18 2007, 10:09 PM) [snapback]1281255987[/snapback]

Hamish ive dropped a DEt into mine, Rb25DEt droped in for 7500 on 13psi and i love it , now its getting a 4 to 5 stud conversion so i can get some nice brambos.



yeaha well that sounds good what did u get for the $7500, just standard cooler and dump into standard exaust???

Hame wavey.gif

Hamish4danielle
Post #29

CAR IS NOW GETTING AN rb25det CONVSERSION - all details are on SAU http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t174698.html

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