Basic Step By Step Tutorial To Respray Your Vehicle In Acrylic  

pImPiN_tHe_pInK
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Post #1 post 3rd October 2006 - 11:40 PM
This is a basic step by step tutorial to respray your vehicle in Acrylic.

So your body isn’t looking too flash hot eh, strapped for cash but willing to put in the hard yards.

Well firstly I would suggest do not undertake a respray unless you can complete it, that means, make sure u have the time the space the patience and the money to complete it.

Here is a run down on the materials u will need:

 Approx 10 sheets of 180g wet rub sand paper
 Approx 10 sheets of 400g wet rub sand paper
 Approx 10 sheets of 800g wet rub sand paper
 4l Acrylic automotive primer
 4l Acrylic automotive solid colour
 2 rolls of 25mm masking tape
 1 roll of 2inch masking tape
 3-4 newspapers
 Spray gun with 1.4-1.6mm tip
 20l general purpose or acrylic thinners
 ½ sand paper sheet sized rubbing block
 4l prepwash-prepsol-wax & grease remover
 Minimum 50lt 2.5hp air compressor
 can of flat black

Ok once you have these materials we can now start to get stuck into it

1. Start by parking your vehicle in a shed garage etc where u will be able to keep it for at least 2 weeks.
2. Now start by getting your tools and removing the bumper bars, headlights, mirrors, tail lights, door and guard mouldings, chrome mouldings, indicators, etc. Remember the more u remove from the car the more professional it will look when completed because there is no chance of getting and overspray over the parts that don’t need to be painted. As for the front and rear windows just lift the rubber and squeeze a piece of rope around the length of the window, this lift the rubber off the body so it can easily be masked up later. As for the door windows wind then down and then remover the rubber around the bailey channels. Now it should be all ready to start sanding.
3. Okay get a nice decent sized bucket and fill it with clean water and put 2 sheets of 180g into the water and let sit for a few mins, then rip sheets in half and use one half to fit to your rubbing block, the others can just sit in the water. Start sanding from the roof down and then sand panel by panel keep enough water on the panel so that the block glides across the surface, a sponge or squeegee is good for this. I normally sand in a criss-cross style which is sand for 30seconds or so diagonally from the top of the panel and then sand for 30seconds or so diagonally from the bottom of the panel, just work on sections of the panel at a time using this method, eg a roof u can divide into 4-6 stages. u only need to sand the panel until it goes dull, stop sanding the section if it starts to go through to the primer.
4. Next get 2 rags one will be a wipe on rag and the other will be a wipe off rag. Saturate the wipe on rag in the prep sol and wipe on panel, before it dries wipe off with the wipe off rag. Do this to all the panels u have just sanded, do not interchange rags, rags can be replaced if it’s getting too dirty.
5. Now mask up your front and rear windows with masking tape and newspaper, mask up the door windows and mask up your tyres. Remember to mask in side door and boot and bonnet apertures if u don’t want any paint to go there
6. Now mix up your primer in a separate tin, mix it 1:1.5, this means 1 part primer to 1.5 parts thinners. Spray primer on lightly, we don’t want any runs, do a coat around edges first each time before u coat the whole panel. Apply 3-4 coats over the panels with a ½ overlap of each stroke so u get nice build up and no tiger stripes. Allow primer to cure for 10mins between coats.
7. Give the primer at least 24hrs dry before going on to the next stage.
8. Now with your can of flat black spray a mist of black over the panels.
9. Now wet rub the panels with 400g wet rub until the black spray (guide coat) is all sanded off.
10. Now re-guide coat it again and wet rub it again with 800g wet rub
11. Now prep sol the panels using the method as in part 4.
12. Now mask up as in part 5, remember to mask in side door and boot and bonnet apertures if u don’t want any paint to go there.
13. Now mix your paint up in a tin, mix it 1:1.5 same as u did with the primer.
14. Now apply the paint in with a spray gun offcourse, same way u did it with the primer, do your edges first then do the whole panel. Apply 3-4 coats. It can go on fairly wet but wait at least 10mins before for apply the next coat.
15. Let your new paintjob dry for at least 24hours before putting all your lights bumper bars etc back on.

This is a very basic beginners way to paint your car, basically I suggest if you want it resprayed in 2pac get a professional to do it, there are varies different methods adopted by different people when respraying a car this is just one way to do it

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skitz32
Post #2

hi i am respraying my car in kandy electric blue and i hear that if you spray a base coat of silver it will better the shine quality

my car is already silver but it is a metalic silver can i still use the original metalic silver as the base coat or do you have any other sugestions.

obrim
Post #3

Wow.

Great article, well written and very informative.

Good work thumbsup.gif

vato_trucho
Post #4

srry to be a pooper but i'm a spray painter for a living and i can tell u it may sound and look easy but it's far from it and also the primmer is best mixed 4 to 1 4 parts primmer 1 part hardener and if ur gnna respray ur car dun't use acrylic it's the worst paint makes ur car look tacky ur better off using 2 pac paint and spraying it in a booth as u won't get unwanted shit on ur paint will look more profesional also ur gonna need more than 1 roll of 2 inch tape ur gonna need at least 3 and also make sure u blow the dust off b4 u start washing with prepsol another thing make sure u wear a mask and spray painting overalls ,best place to get ur materials is a place called brisbane paint refinishes over in salisbury thumbsup.gif any questions or small jobs or full resprays gimme a buzz might be able to help u cheaper than spray shops and quality work thumbsup.gif

Capriv8
Post #5

cool article, some mention of cleaning the spray gun would be good.
makes me want to paint my celica biggrin.gif

mz20_drifter
Post #6

good write up mate

224EMP
Post #7

if your sparying kandy get a pro to do not the easiest thing to do, i have house of kolor kandy Violette with house of kolor orion silver base and it came up very well, also recommend a flow coat.

VN-COM
Post #8

If an acrylic job is done properly, then blocked and buffed it will have plenty of shine and depth. If you are doing a spray job at home and are an ameture then acrylic is much easier. The effects of spraying 2 pack can be more damaging at home as apposed to acrylic. Not to mention the quality of the job if not enough hardner is used or it is not baked. There are less parts to an acrylic paint job which make it easier for a novice.
Sure if you are a painter and have the booth and equipment then 2pac can give a better finish with less work. but I have seen 2pac jobs that look shithouse.

Eeyore
Post #9

Could someone add some tips or a how-to on the body work side of things i.e. using filler for small dints/ripples etc? Also is any brand of filler considered better then another? Cheers!

1jz jzx90
Post #10

anyone want there bonnet or boot painted even roof

gach2
Post #11

just wondering which type of gun is better
suction feed or gravity feed

also is 50L tank minimum or would 25 be enough and could some explain why

playingwithfire
Post #12

grate right up on a basic beginners way to paint a car thumbsup.gif

barside
Post #13

[font=Arial][size=2]Is 2 Ltr's of paint enough to repaint a small Ford sedan?.Also, what is the difference between applying acrylic to enamel.

adamp
Post #14

Gravity feed gun is more suited to the application than suction feed, 2 litres of paint wouldn't be enough for a small ford sedan get 3-4 u could get away with 3 providing u weren't doing in the door jams etc and u didnt allow any extra paint for mistakes if u get runs and have to re-do them etc, but its always good to have paint left over encase u ding the car later on down the track. Acrylic paint is easy to apply ive sprayed a car with acrylic in the freezing cold weather in a shed and didnt get any runs or anything u just have to make sure u have your gun set up right, run the correct air pressure etc. Acrylic paint will dry dull and ull have to face it back with a 1200-1500 grit wet n' dry then hit it with some cutting compound to get a shine out of it, it is alot of work getting it to shine but can get a real nice result. Whereas 2pac paint goes on heavier u really need a hot day if ur not using a booth, and it runs easily their is a fine line between getting it on thick enough to look nice and just that little bit too thick and it'll run and its really annoying. But in saying that if u practise on a scrap piece of metal u should be fine, i would recommend it simply because of the finish off the gun is great.

haverbeer
Post #15

so i'm considering doing this. my only issue is my cars original paint is 2 pack

and i want to paint over it with acrylic.

what issues am i going to have with primers and things like that?

jashneilk
Post #16

QUOTE(barside @ May 28 2008, 12:00 PM) [snapback]1282390094[/snapback]

[font=Arial][size=2]Is 2 Ltr's of paint enough to repaint a small Ford sedan?.Also, what is the difference between applying acrylic to enamel.

enamel is the cheap alternative to acrylic
costs only 60 bucks for 4 L which is more than enough for a whole car
doesn;t have a naturnal shine but after a bit of sanding wit 1200 wet and dry and a cut and polish it doens;t turn out too bad ey
obviously its not as good as 2pac or acrylic but its decent enough for someone who want s a paintjob on a budget
i did my whole car and it cost me 60 bucks in paint
also bought other materials eg thinners, sandpaper, masking tape etc
the whole car was done for under 100 bucks so thats not bad for a whole car respray
better than paying like 2-3 gs
obviously not as good quality but still goes alrite

my car in enamel paint

532MAN
Post #17

QUOTE(jashneilk @ Dec 21 2008, 12:55 AM) [snapback]1283319675[/snapback]

enamel is the cheap alternative to acrylic
costs only 60 bucks for 4 L which is more than enough for a whole car
doesn;t have a naturnal shine but after a bit of sanding wit 1200 wet and dry and a cut and polish it doens;t turn out too bad ey
obviously its not as good as 2pac or acrylic but its decent enough for someone who want s a paintjob on a budget
i did my whole car and it cost me 60 bucks in paint
also bought other materials eg thinners, sandpaper, masking tape etc
the whole car was done for under 100 bucks so thats not bad for a whole car respray
better than paying like 2-3 gs
obviously not as good quality but still goes alrite

my car in enamel paint



Did you spray that on the road?

jashneilk
Post #18

QUOTE(532MAN @ Jan 10 2009, 08:28 PM) [snapback]1283408495[/snapback]

Did you spray that on the road?

lol yep

4X4Luxie
Post #19

Great tutorial man!
Painted my car midnight blue..
Stupid tihng looks purple sometimes sad.gif
But still looks great, and turned out better!


 
boost101
Post #20

haha you sprayed your car on the road... did anyone ask wtf are you doing? haha mad kid lol

Little Rippa
Post #21

QUOTE
Great tutorial man!
Painted my car midnight blue..
Stupid tihng looks purple sometimes sad.gif
But still looks great, and turned out better!


umm...did you forget to cover the running boards or is that shadows???

Colby
Post #22

QUOTE (VN-COM @ May 10 2007, 08:31 PM) *
If an acrylic job is done properly, then blocked and buffed it will have plenty of shine and depth. If you are doing a spray job at home and are an ameture then acrylic is much easier. The effects of spraying 2 pack can be more damaging at home as apposed to acrylic. Not to mention the quality of the job if not enough hardner is used or it is not baked. There are less parts to an acrylic paint job which make it easier for a novice.
Sure if you are a painter and have the booth and equipment then 2pac can give a better finish with less work. but I have seen 2pac jobs that look shithouse.

Well said. I started off about ten years ago spraying with acrylic paints and as got better and more confident went to 2pack,
nowadays 2pack all the way but would recomend any novice to probley take the same route?

And oldmate painting ya car out in the street classic LOL! Wish i had neighbours with the same attitude

yep20t
Post #23

hey just finished my 1st spray was alot ALOT bigger job then i thought... but i got no clue on cut and buff and need a run down... what products do i need in cuttin compounds sand paper polishes buffin pads...

so i needs a step by step buffing guide

heres a pic off a my car at current stATE

vato_trucho
Post #24

QUOTE (yep20t @ Nov 17 2009, 05:07 PM) *
hey just finished my 1st spray was alot ALOT bigger job then i thought... but i got no clue on cut and buff and need a run down... what products do i need in cuttin compounds sand paper polishes buffin pads...

so i needs a step by step buffing guide

heres a pic off a my car at current stATE


i usually use 1500 to wet rub the car with,
and then just use any cut and polish compound,
as long as it cuts and polishes and just use a foam pad on the buffer theres sheeps wool but in my opinion foam will make life easier ,stay clear of the edges tho u might rub through if ur not familiar with wot ur doing . if u need any help or tips with painting or buffing send me a pm i'm a qualified spray painter not a home dodgy wannabe one lol

Statham
Post #25

you can get instant shine if you blow a clear coat over the top
makes such a difference and protects your paint

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