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perception time. Actually doing it is reaction time. Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a second. But that is only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between the vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake force applied. Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with the traffic and allowing realistic following distances eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Antilock Brake System (ABS) This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an advanced electronic braking system that helps prevent a braking skid. When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going on, and it might even be noticed that the brake pedal moves a little. This is normal.
If there is a problem with ABS, this warning light stays on. See Antilock Brake System (ABS) Warning Light on page 3-28.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely. Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what happens with ABS: A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each wheel. ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as required, faster than any driver could. This can help the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard. As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even with ABS.
Using ABS Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let antilock work. The antilock pump or motor operating might be heard and the brake pedal might be felt to pulsate, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies ABS allows the driver to steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help more than even the very best braking.
StabiliTrak® System The vehicle has a vehicle stability enhancement system called StabiliTrak which combines antilock brake, traction and stability control systems and helps the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle in most driving conditions. StabiliTrak activates when the computer senses a discrepancy between the intended path and the direction the vehicle is actually traveling. StabiliTrak selectively applies braking pressure at any one of the vehicle’s brakes to assist the driver with keeping the vehicle on the intended path. When the vehicle is started and begins to move, the system performs several diagnostic checks to insure there are no problems.
The system may be heard or felt while it is working. This is normal and does not mean there is a problem with the vehicle.
This light is located on the instrument panel cluster. It will flash when StabiliTrak is both on and activated. If the system fails to turn on or activate, this light will be on solid. When the light is on solid, the system will not assist the driver maintain directional control of the vehicle. Adjust your driving accordingly.
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The StabiliTrak system automatically comes on whenever the vehicle is started. To assist the driver with vehicle directional control, especially in slippery road conditions, the system should always be left on. StabiliTrak can be turned off if needed.
The Traction Control System (TCS)/StabiliTrak button is located on the instrument panel. TCS can be turned off or turned on by pressing and releasing the TCS/StabiliTrak button. To disable both StabiliTrak and TCS, press and hold the button until the TCS/ StabiliTrak warning light turns on solid.
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Driving Your Vehicle
It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if the vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow, and you want to “rock” the vehicle to attempt to free it. StabiliTrak may also turn off automatically if it determines that a problem exists with the system. The TCS/StabiliTrak warning light will be on solid to warn the driver that StabiliTrak is disabled and requires service. If the problem does not clear itself after restarting the vehicle, see your dealer/retailer for service. If cruise control is being used when StabiliTrak activates, the cruise control automatically disengages. The cruise control can be re-engaged when road conditions allow. See Cruise Control on page 3-9.
Trailer Sway Control (TSC) The vehicle has a Trailer Sway Control (TSC) feature as part of the StabiliTrak system. If the vehicle is towing a trailer and the system detects that the trailer is swaying, the vehicle’s brakes are applied without the driver pressing the brake pedal. The TCS/StabiliTrak warning light will flash on the instrument panel cluster to notify the driver to reduce speed. If the trailer continues to sway, StabiliTrak will reduce engine torque to help slow the vehicle. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.
Traction Control System (TCS) The vehicle has a Traction Control System (TCS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, TCS applies the brakes to limit wheel spin and also reduces engine power. The system may be heard or felt while it is working, but this is normal.
This light will flash when TCS is limiting wheel spin. It is recommended to leave the system on for normal driving conditions, but it may be necessary to turn the system off if the vehicle is stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow, and you want to “rock” the vehicle to
attempt to free it. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-17
and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 4-17 for more information.The TCS/StabiliTrak® button is located on the instrument panel. Press and release this button to turn off TCS. The TCS warning light will be displayed on the instrument panel. The traction control system can be turned back on by pressing the TCS/StabiliTrak button. If the system is limiting wheel spin when the button is pressed, the system will not turn off until there is no longer a current need to limit wheel spin. The system can be turned back on at any time by pressing the button again. If the TCS light does not come on,
TCS may not be functioning properly and the vehicle should be serviced at your dealer/retailer. Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect the vehicle’s performance. See Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for more information.
Steering Electric Power Steering If the engine stalls while driving, the power steering assist system will continue to operate until you are able to stop the vehicle. If power steering assist is lost because the electric power steering system is not functioning, the vehicle can be steered but it will take more effort. If you turn the steering wheel in either direction several times until it stops, or hold the steering wheel in the stopped position for an extended amount of time, you may
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notice a reduced amount of power steering assist. The normal amount of power steering assist should return shortly after a few normal steering movements. The electric power steering system does not require regular maintenance. If you suspect steering system problems and/or the Service Vehicle Soon light comes on, contact your dealer/retailer for service repairs.
Steering Tips It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed. Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control. If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering the curve, while the front wheels are straight.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. These problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time because there is no room. That is the time for evasive action — steering around the problem. The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply the brakes. See Braking on page 4-5. It is better to remove as much speed as possible from a
collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
Off-Road Recovery The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while driving.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy.
Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches, 8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
Passing Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:
Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads for situations that might affect a successful pass. If in doubt, wait.
(cid:129) Watch for traffic signs, pavement
markings, and lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection. Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side of the lane.
(cid:129) Do not get too close to the vehicle
you want to pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
(cid:129) Wait your turn to pass a slow
vehicle.
(cid:129) When you are being passed,
ease to the right.
Loss of Control Let us review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems — brakes, steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked. In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
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Skidding In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving those conditions. But skids are always possible. The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin. Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only the acceleration skid. If the traction control system is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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Driving Your Vehicle
If the vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, the vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs. Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited. While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until the
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down when you have any doubt. Remember: Any Antilock Brake System (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.
Driving at Night Night driving is more dangerous than day driving because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue. Night driving tips include: (cid:129) Drive defensively. (cid:129) Do not drink and drive. (cid:129) Reduce headlamp glare
by adjusting the inside rearview mirror.
(cid:129) Slow down and keep more space
between you and other vehicles because headlamps can only light up so much road ahead.
(cid:129) Watch for animals. (cid:129) When tired, pull off the road. (cid:129) Do not wear sunglasses. (cid:129) Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
(cid:129) Keep the windshield and all glass
on your vehicle clean — inside and out.
(cid:129) Keep your eyes moving,
especially during turns or curves. No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old driver might need at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always drive slower in these types of driving conditions and avoid driving through large puddles and deep-standing or flowing water.
{ CAUTION
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not work as well in a quick stop and could cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
(Continued)
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road is wet enough and you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road. There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips include: (cid:129) Allow extra following distance. (cid:129) Pass with caution. (cid:129) Keep windshield wiping
equipment in good shape.
(cid:129) Keep the windshield washer fluid
reservoir filled.
(cid:129) Have good tires with proper tread
depth. See Tires on page 5-38. Turn off cruise control.
CAUTION (Continued)
After driving through a large puddle of water or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until the brakes work normally. Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces. Driving through flowing water could cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not ignore police warnings and be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
Hydroplaning Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the water. This can happen if the
(cid:129) Highway Hypnosis Always be alert and pay attention to your surroundings while driving. If you become tired or sleepy, find a safe place to park your vehicle and rest. Other driving tips include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle well ventilated. (cid:129) Keep interior temperature cool. (cid:129) Keep your eyes moving — scan the road ahead and to the sides.
(cid:129) Check the rearview mirror and
vehicle instruments often.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Before Leaving on a Long Trip To prepare your vehicle for a long trip, consider having it serviced by your dealer/retailer before departing. Things to check on your own include: (cid:129) Windshield Washer Fluid: Reservoir full? Windows clean — inside and outside?
(cid:129) Wiper Blades: In good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: All levels checked? Lamps: Do they all work and are lenses clean? Tires: Are treads good? Are tires inflated to recommended pressure?
(cid:129) Weather and Maps: Safe to
travel? Have up-to-date maps?
Hill and Mountain Roads Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different than driving on flat or rolling terrain. Tips for driving in these conditions include: (cid:129) Keep the vehicle serviced
and in good shape.
(cid:129) Check all fluid levels and brakes,
tires, cooling system, and transmission.
(cid:129) Going down steep or long hills,
shift to a lower gear.
{ CAUTION
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let the engine assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) { CAUTION
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down and they could get so hot that they would not work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have the engine running and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
(cid:129) Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane. Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your lane (stalled car, accident).
(cid:129) Pay attention to special road
signs (falling rocks area, winding roads, long grades, passing or no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving Driving on Snow or Ice Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be treated with salt or sand. Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
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Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more. The Antilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-6 improves vehicle stability during hard stops on slippery roads, but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry pavement. Allow greater following distance on any slippery road and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering maneuvers and braking while on ice. Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Blizzard Conditions Being stuck in snow can be a serious situation. Stay with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible, use the Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on the Hazard Warning Flashers on page 3-5. Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{ CAUTION
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle. This may cause exhaust gases to get inside. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
(cid:129) Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust pipe. (cid:129) Check again from time to time to be sure snow does not collect there.
(cid:129) Open a window about two
inches (5 cm) on the side of the vehicle that is away from the wind to bring in fresh air. (cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or
under the instrument panel. (cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control
system to a setting that circulates the air inside the vehicle and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.
(Continued)
For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-26. Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to keep warm, but be careful. To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off and close the window most of the way to save heat.
(cid:129) (cid:129) Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm also helps. If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-17.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off and use the rocking method. { CAUTION
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle, see Tire Chains on page 5-57.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-22.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Loading the Vehicle It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the Certification/Tire label.
{ CAUTION
Tire and Loading Information Label
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.
Example Label
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar) of your vehicle. With the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading information label shows the number of occupant seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows the size of the original equipment tires (C) and the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D). For more information on tires and inflation see Tires on page 5-38 and Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-43. There is also important loading information on the vehicle Certification/Tire label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle. See “Certification/Tire Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit 1. Locate the statement “The
combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. 4. The resulting figure equals
the available amount of cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the “XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity is 650 lbs (1400 − 750
(5 x 150) = 650 lbs).Driving Your Vehicle
4-19
5. Determine the combined
weight of luggage and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight may not safely exceed the available cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4. 6. If your vehicle will be towing a
trailer, the load from your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how this reduces the available cargo and luggage load capacity for your vehicle.
See Towing a Trailer on page 4-26 for important information on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and trailering tips.
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Driving Your Vehicle
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for Example 1 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant Weight
150 lbs (68 kg) × 2 = 300 lbs (136 kg).
C. Available Occupant and Cargo Weight = 700 lbs (317 kg).
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for
Example 2 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant Weight
150 lbs (68 kg) × 5 = 750 lbs (340 kg).
C. Available Cargo
Weight = 250 lbs (113 kg).
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight for
Example 3 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
B. Subtract Occupant Weight
200 lbs (91 kg) × 5 = 1,000 lbs (453 kg).
C. Available Cargo
Weight = 0 lbs (0 kg).
Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity weight and seating positions. The combined weight of the driver, passengers, and cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
Certification/Tire Label
Label Example
A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is attached to the lower area of the center pillar (B-Pillar). The label shows the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if the vehicle is pulling a trailer. The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline.
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Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
{ CAUTION
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of the vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause damage. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.
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Driving Your Vehicle
If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else, they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they will keep going.
{ CAUTION
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
(cid:129) Put things in the cargo
area of your vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
(cid:129) Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
(cid:129) Do not leave an unsecured
child restraint in your vehicle.
(cid:129) When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
(cid:129) Do not leave a seat folded down unless you need to.
Towing Towing Your Vehicle To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled vehicle must be towed. See Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-5. To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome, see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
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To tow the vehicle from the front with all four wheels on the ground: 1. Position the vehicle that will
be towed and secure it to the towing vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition key to
ACC/ACCESSORY.
Recreational Vehicle Towing Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome. The two most common types of recreational vehicle towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing. Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device known as a dolly. Here are some important things to consider before recreational vehicle towing: (cid:129) What is the towing capacity of the towing vehicle? Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
(cid:129) What is the distance that will be travelled? Some vehicles have restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Is the proper towing equipment going to be used? See your dealer/retailer or trailering professional for additional advice and equipment recommendations. Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is prepared to be towed. See Before Leaving on a Long Trip on page 4-14.
Dinghy Towing This vehicle may be dinghy towed from the front. This vehicle may also be towed by putting the front wheels on a dolly. See “Dolly Towing” later in this section. For vehicles being dinghy towed, the vehicle should be run at the beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication of transmission components.
(cid:129) (cid:129) 4-24
Driving Your Vehicle
3. Shift the transmission to
N (Neutral).
4. Turn fog lamps and all
accessories off.
5. To prevent the battery from
draining while the vehicle is being towed, remove the 2 amp IGN SW fuse from the instrument panel fuse block and store it in a safe location. See Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 5-76
If the vehicle is towed
Notice: without performing each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,” the automatic transmission could be damaged. Be sure to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure prior to and after towing the vehicle.
If the vehicle has a
Notice: four-speed automatic transmission, it can be dinghy towed from the front for unlimited miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). The vehicle could be damaged If 65 mph (105 km/h) is exceeded while towing the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while towing the vehicle. Once the destination has been reached: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Shift the transmission to
P (Park).
3. Reinstall the 2 amp IGN SW fuse
to the instrument panel fuse block.
4. Turn the ignition key to
LOCK/OFF and remove the key from the ignition.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage the transmission. Be sure that the transmission fluid is at the proper level before towing with all four wheels on the ground. Notice: Do not tow a vehicle with the front drive wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a compact spare tire. Towing with two different tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause severe damage to the transmission.
Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel-Drive Vehicles)
4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Remove the key from the
ignition.
6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly. 7. Release the parking brake. Towing the Vehicle From the Rear
To tow the vehicle from the front with the rear wheels on the ground, do the following: 1. Put the front wheels on a dolly. 2. Move the shift lever to P (Park). 3. Set the parking brake.
Driving Your Vehicle
4-25
Notice: Towing the vehicle from the rear could damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed from the rear.
4-26
Driving Your Vehicle
Towing a Trailer
{ CAUTION
The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even at all. The driver and passengers could be seriously injured. The vehicle may also be damaged; the resulting repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only if all the steps in this section have been followed. Ask your dealer/ retailer for advice and information about towing a trailer with the vehicle.
Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this section and see your dealer/retailer for important information about towing a trailer with the vehicle. The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
The following information has many time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before pulling a trailer. Load-pulling components such as the engine, transmission, rear axle, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements. The vehicle has Trailer Sway Control (TSC). See “Trailer Sway Control (TSC)” in StabiliTrak® System on page 4-7 for more information.
Pulling A Trailer Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure the rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you will be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (800 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged. Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
(cid:129) Vehicles can tow in D (Drive).
Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
(cid:129) Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer. Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
(cid:129) Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is above 100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer The weight of the trailer tongue The total weight on the vehicle’s tires
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4-27
Weight of the Trailer How heavy can a trailer safely be? It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even that can be too heavy. It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. It can depend on any special equipment on the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this section for more information. Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight. Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or advice.
(cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) (cid:129) 4-28
Driving Your Vehicle
Weight of the Trailer Tongue The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total gross weight of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo carried in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See Loading the Vehicle on page 4-18 for more information about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
The effect of additional weight may reduce the trailering capacity more than the total of the additional weight. Consider the following example: A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs (2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs (6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
Expect tongue weight to be at least 10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and because the weight is applied well behind the rear axle, the effect on the rear axle is greater than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times as much.
For a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving some items around in the trailer. Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating).
The weight at the rear axle could be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg). Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg). If the vehicle has many options and there is a front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well, 300 lbs (136 kg) could be added to the front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle weight. The vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you might think 700
additional pounds (318 kg) should be subtracted from the trailering capacity to stay within GCWR limits.The maximum trailer would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think the tongue weight should be limited to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding GVWR. But the effect on the rear axle must still be considered. Because the rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs (408 kg) can be put on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight that can be handled. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight, expect that the largest trailer the vehicle can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg). It is important that the vehicle does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure it is not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh the vehicle and trailer.
Driving Your Vehicle
4-29
Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the Certification label or see Loading the Vehicle on page 4-18
for more information. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for the vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.Hitches It is important to have the correct hitch equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why the right hitch is needed.
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
(cid:129) 4-30
Driving Your Vehicle
(cid:129) Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle when the trailer hitch is installed? If so, be sure to seal the holes when the hitch is removed. If they are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the engine’s exhaust can get into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust on page 2-26. Sealing the holes will also prevent dirt and water from entering the vehicle.
Safety Chains Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,000 lbs (900 kg) needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed, adjusted and maintained properly. Because the vehicle has StabiliTrak®, do not try to tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer { CAUTION
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO) which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause unconsciousness and even death. To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
(cid:129) Have the exhaust system
inspected for leaks and make necessary repairs before starting a trip.
(cid:129) Never drive with the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window open.
(cid:129) Fully open the air outlets on or
under the instrument panel.
(Continued)
CAUTION (Continued)
(cid:129) Adjust the Climate Control
system to a setting that brings in only outside air and set the fan speed to the highest setting. See Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see Engine Exhaust on page 2-26.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself. Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps, tires and mirror adjustments.
If the trailer has electric brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection at the same time. During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer. Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to the lane.
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4-31
Backing Up Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering. When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
4-32
Driving Your Vehicle
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle is turning, changing lanes or stopping. When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. For this reason you may think other drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades Notice: Do not tow on steep continuous grades exceeding 6
miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher than normal engine and transmission temperatures may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent stops are very important to allow the engine and transmission to cool. Vehicles can tow in D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if the transmission shifts too often under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before starting down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of the engine and the transmission overheating. When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If the engine is turned off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, the vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with the automatic transmission in P (Park) for a few minutes before turning the engine off. If the overheat warning comes on, see Engine Overheating on page 5-23.
Parking on Hills
{ CAUTION
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a flat surface.
If parking the rig on a hill: 1. Press the brake pedal, but do
not shift into P (Park) yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks
under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in
place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then
apply the parking brake and shift into P (Park).
5. Release the brake pedal. Leaving After Parking on a Hill 1. Apply and hold the brake pedal
while you: (cid:129) Start the engine (cid:129) Shift into a gear (cid:129) Release the parking brake
2. Let up on the brake pedal. 3. Drive slowly until the trailer is
clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up
and store the chocks.
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4-33
Maintenance When Trailer Towing The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a trailer. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-3 for more information. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid, engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good idea to inspect these before and during the trip. Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight. Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing The cooling system may temporarily overheat during severe operating conditions. See Engine Overheating on page 5-23.
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Driving Your Vehicle
✍ NOTES
Service and Appearance Care
5-1
Service and Appearance Care
Service Service ...............................5-3
Accessories and Modifications .....................5-3
California Proposition 65
Warning ............................5-3
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements .....5-4
Doing Your Own Service Work ....................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle ......5-4Fuel Fuel ....................................5-5
Gasoline Octane .................5-5
Gasoline Specifications .......5-5
California Fuel ....................5-5
Additives .............................5-5Fuels in Foreign Countries ..........................5-6
Filling the Tank ...................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container ..........................5-8Checking Things Under the Hood Checking Things Under the Hood ..........................5-9
Hood Release .....................5-9
Engine Compartment Overview .........................5-10
Engine Oil .........................5-11
Engine Oil Life System .....5-14
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter ...5-15
Automatic Transmission Fluid ................................5-17
Cooling System .................5-17
Engine Coolant .................5-20
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap ..................5-22
Engine Overheating ...........5-23
Windshield Washer Fluid ................................5-24Brakes ..............................5-25
Battery ..............................5-27
Jump Starting ...................5-28
Headlamp Aiming Headlamp Aiming ..............5-33
Bulb Replacement Bulb Replacement .............5-35
Halogen Bulbs ..................5-35
Headlamps ........................5-35
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamps ................5-36
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Back-up Lamps .............................5-36
License Plate Lamp ..........5-37
Replacement Bulbs ...........5-37
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement ...................5-385-2
Service and Appearance Care
Tires Tires .................................5-38
Tire Sidewall Labeling .......5-39
Tire Terminology and Definitions .......................5-41
Inflation - Tire Pressure ....5-43
Tire Pressure Monitor System ............................5-45
Tire Pressure Monitor Operation ........................5-46
Tire Inspection and Rotation ..........................5-50
When It Is Time for New Tires .......................5-51
Buying New Tires .............5-51
Different Size Tires and Wheels ............................5-53
Uniform Tire Quality Grading ...........................5-54
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance ....................5-55
Wheel Replacement ..........5-55
Tire Chains .......................5-57
If a Tire Goes Flat ............5-58Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit ...............5-59
Tire Sealant and Compressor Kit Storage ...........................5-66Appearance Care Interior Cleaning ................5-66
Fabric/Carpet ....................5-68
Leather .............................5-68
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and Other Plastic Surfaces ..........................5-69
Care of Safety Belts .........5-69
Weatherstrips ....................5-69
Washing Your Vehicle .......5-69
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses .................5-70
Finish Care .......................5-70
Windshield and Wiper Blades .............................5-71
Aluminum Wheels .............5-72
Tires .................................5-72
Sheet Metal Damage ........5-73
Finish Damage ..................5-73
Underbody Maintenance ....5-73
Chemical Paint Spotting ....5-73Vehicle Identification Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ..................5-74
Service Parts Identification Label ...........5-74Electrical System Intermediate Voltage Devices and Wiring .........5-74
Add-On Electrical Equipment .......................5-75
Windshield Wiper Fuses ....5-75
Power Windows and Other Power Options .......5-75
Fuses and Circuit Breakers .........................5-75
Instrument Panel Fuse Block ...............................5-76
Underhood Fuse Block ......5-77
Capacities and Specifications Capacities and Specifications ..................5-81Service For service and parts needs, visit your dealer/retailer. You will receive genuine Saturn parts and Saturn-trained and supported service people. Genuine Saturn parts have one of these marks.
Service and Appearance Care
5-3
Accessories and Modifications When non-dealer/non-retailer accessories are added to the vehicle, they can affect vehicle performance and safety, including such things as airbags, braking, stability, ride and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics, durability, and electronic systems like antilock brakes, traction control, and stability control. Some of these accessories could even cause malfunction or damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. Damage to vehicle components resulting from the installation or use of non-GM certified parts, including control module modifications, are not covered under the terms of the vehicle warranty and may affect remaining warranty coverage for affected parts. GM Accessories are designed to complement and function with other systems on the vehicle.
Your GM dealer/retailer can accessorize the vehicle using genuine GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer/retailer and ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained and supported service technicians will perform the work using genuine GM Accessories. Also, see Adding Equipment to Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-55.
California Proposition 65
Warning Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or emit chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems (including some inside the vehicle), many fluids, and some component wear by-products contain and/or emit these chemicals.5-4
Service and Appearance Care
California Perchlorate Materials Requirements Certain types of automotive applications, such as airbag initiators, seat belt pretensioners, and lithium batteries contained in remote keyless transmitters, may contain perchlorate materials. Special handling may be necessary. For additional information, see www.dtsc.ca.gov/hazardouswaste/ perchlorate.
Doing Your Own Service Work
{ CAUTION
Never try to do your own service on hybrid components. You can be injured and the vehicle can be damaged if you try to do your own service work. Service and repair of these hybrid components should only be performed by a trained service technician with the proper knowledge and tools.
{ CAUTION
You can be injured and the vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
(cid:129) Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts, and tools before attempting any vehicle maintenance task. (cid:129) Be sure to use the proper
nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. English and metric fasteners can be easily confused. If the wrong fasteners are used, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
If doing some of your own service work, use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service the vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-13.
This vehicle has an airbag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Airbag-Equipped Vehicle on page 1-54. Keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work performed. See Maintenance Record on page 6-14.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of the Vehicle Things added to the outside of the vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This can cause wind noise and can affect fuel economy and windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer/retailer before adding equipment to the outside of the vehicle.
Fuel Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance of this vehicle. To help keep the engine clean and maintain optimum vehicle performance, we recommend the use of gasoline advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Gasoline Octane Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 87 or higher. If the octane rating is less than 87, you might notice an audible knocking noise when you drive, commonly referred to as spark knock. If this occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as soon as possible. If you are using gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, the engine needs service.
Service and Appearance Care
5-5
Gasoline Specifications At a minimum, gasoline should meet ASTM specification D 4814 in the United States or CAN/CGSB-3.5
or 3.511 in Canada. Some gasolines contain an octane-enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (MMT). We recommend against the use of gasolines containing MMT. See Additives on page 5-5 for additional information.California Fuel If the vehicle is certified to meet California Emissions Standards, it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. See the underhood emission control label. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, the vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance might be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp could turn on and the vehicle
might fail a smog-check test. See Malfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-30. If this occurs, return to your authorized dealer/retailer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.
Additives To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing the emission control system to work properly. In most cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean, or if the vehicle experiences problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
5-6
Service and Appearance Care
For customers who do not use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline regularly, one bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change, can help clean deposits from fuel injectors and intake valves. GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the only gasoline additive recommended by General Motors. Also, your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and prevent most deposit-related problems. Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines might be available in your area. We recommend that you use these gasolines, if they comply with the specifications described earlier. However, E85 (85% ethanol) and
