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Oils meeting these requirements should also have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API).


You should look for this on the oil container, and use only those oils that are identified as meeting GM Standard GM4718M and have the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. Your vehicle’s engine is filled at the factory with a Mobil 1® synthetic oil, which meets all requirements for your vehicle.


Substitute Engine Oil: When adding oil to maintain engine oil level, oil meeting GM Standard GM4718M may not be available. You can add substitute oil designated SAE 5W-30 with the starburst symbol at all temperatures. Substitute oil not meeting GM Standard GM4718M should not be used for an oil change. Engine Oil Additives Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM standards are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.


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If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles (5 000 km) since your last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system whenever the oil is changed. How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System and the Oil Life Indicator The Engine Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime your oil is changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where you change your oil prior to a change engine oil message in the DIC being turned on, reset the system.


Engine Oil Life System When to Change Engine Oil Your vehicle has a computer system that lets you know when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature, and not on mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change will be indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you must reset the system every time the oil is changed. When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary. A change engine oil message in the Driver Information Center (DIC) will come on. Change your oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if you are driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this time the system must be reset. Your dealer has GM-trained service people who will perform this work using genuine GM parts and reset the system. It is also important to check your oil regularly and keep it at the proper level.


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After the oil has been changed, the change engine oil message and the oil life indicator must be reset. To reset the message and indicator, use one of the following procedures: Base Audio System Press the CLR button located to the right of the DIC display to acknowledge the change engine oil message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it. To reset the oil life indicator, use the following steps: 1. Press the up or down arrow on the INFO


button located to the right of the DIC display to access the DIC menu.


2. Once XXX% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is


highlighted, press and hold the CLR button. The percentage will return to 100, and the oil life indicator will be reset. Repeat the steps if the percentage does not return to 100.


3. Turn the key to OFF. If the change engine oil message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.


Navigation System If you have the navigation system, see “Vehicle Customization” in the Navigation System Manual for how to reset the oil life indicator. What to Do with Used Oil Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.


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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter


CTS shown, CTS-V similar


The engine air cleaner/filter is in the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle, near the front. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for more information on location.


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When to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Inspect the air cleaner/filter at the Maintenance II intervals and replace it at the first oil change after each 50,000 mile (83 000 km) interval. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 463 for more information. If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions, inspect the filter at each engine oil change. How to Inspect the Engine Air Cleaner/Filter To inspect the air cleaner/filter, remove the filter from the vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new filter is required. To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following: 1. Remove the two screws located on the sides


of the cover.


2. Lift the cover off.


Automatic Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take your vehicle to your GM dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in Additional Required Services on page 466, and be sure to use the transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474. Notice: Use of the incorrect automatic transmission fluid may damage your vehicle, and the damages may not be covered by your warranty. Always use the automatic transmission fluid listed in Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474.


3. Inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 476 for the correct part number for the filter.


4. Reinstall the cover by reversing Steps 1 and 2.


{CAUTION:


Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps to stop flames if the engine backfires. If it is not there and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.


If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire


Notice: can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you are driving.


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To reset the transmission fluid life indicator, use the following steps: 1. Press the up or down arrow on the INFO (Information) button located to the right of the DIC display to access the DIC menu.


2. Once the XXX% TRANS FLUID LIFE menu


item is highlighted, press and hold the CLR button. The percentage will return to 100, and the transmission fluid life indicator will be reset. 3. Repeat the steps if the percentage does not


return to 100.


Navigation System If your vehicle has a navigation system, see your Navigation System Manual for instructions on how to acknowledge the Change Trans Fluid message and reset the transmission fluid life indicator.


How to Reset the Change Transmission Fluid Message and the Transmission Fluid Indicator After the transmission fluid has been changed, the Change Trans Fluid message and the transmission fluid life indicator must be reset. To reset the message and indicator, use one of the following procedures: Base Audio System Press the CLR (Clear) button located to the right of the Driver Information Center (DIC) display to acknowledge the CHANGE TRANS FLUID message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it.


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Manual Transmission Fluid When to Check Manual Transmission Fluid It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your GM dealer service department and have it repaired as soon as possible. How to Check Manual Transmission Fluid Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealer service department. If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading. Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.


Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case. To check the fluid level, do the following: 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the


bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. If the fluid level is good and your vehicle is a CTS, replace the gasket and reinstall the filler plug. If the fluid level is good and your vehicle is a CTS-V, apply LOCTITE ® #516 or equivalent sealant to the threads and then reinstall the filler plug. With either vehicle, be sure the plug is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.


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How to Add Manual Transmission Fluid Here is how to add fluid. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474 to determine which type of fluid to use. 1. Remove the filler plug. 2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.


3. If your vehicle is a CTS, replace the gasket


and reinstall the filler plug. If your vehicle is a CTS-V, apply LOCTITE ® #516 or equivalent sealant to the threads and then reinstall the filler plug. Again, with either vehicle, be sure the plug is fully seated.


Hydraulic Clutch It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid will not correct a leak. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


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When to Check and What to Use


The hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir cap has this symbol on it. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for reservoir location.


Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid to use. See Owner Checks and Services on page 469 and Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474. How to Check and Add Fluid Make sure the fluid level is at the MIN (Minimum) line on the side of the reservoir. If it is not, remove the cap and add the proper fluid until the level reaches the MIN line.


Engine Coolant The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with DEX-COOL® engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for five years or 150,000 miles (240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only DEX-COOL® extended life coolant. The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see Engine Overheating on page 360.


A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant will: (cid:127) Give freezing protection down


to −34°F (−37°C).


(cid:127) Give boiling protection up to 265°F (129°C). (cid:127) Protect against rust and corrosion. (cid:127) Help keep the proper engine temperature. (cid:127) Let the warning lights and gages work as they


should.


Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core, or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at the first maintenance service after each 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


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If you use an improper coolant


Notice: mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core, and other parts. If you have to add coolant more than once or twice a year, have your dealer check your cooling system. Notice: additives in your vehicle’s cooling system, you could damage your vehicle. Use only the proper mixture of the engine coolant listed in this manual for the cooling system. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474 for more information.


If you use extra inhibitors and/or


What to Use Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and one-half DEX-COOL® coolant which will not damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do not need to add anything else.


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


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Checking Coolant


The coolant surge tank and pressure cap are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle, toward the rear of the engine compartment. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for more information on location.


{CAUTION:


Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure cap — even a little — when the engine and radiator are hot.


The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the surge tank. Follow the arrow from the top of the tank down the side to the horizontal mark.


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Adding Coolant If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL® coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.


{CAUTION:


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand-tight and fully seated.


If the pressure cap is not tightly


Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap Notice: installed, coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured. The coolant surge tank pressure cap must be fully installed on the coolant surge tank. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for more information on location.


Engine Overheating There are two engine hot messages that may be displayed in the Driver Information Center (DIC). See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 228 for more information.


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If your engine catches fire because


Notice: you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 363 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine


{CAUTION:


Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood. If you keep driving when the vehicles engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 363 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency.


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If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An Engine Coolant Hot − Idle Engine warning, along with a low coolant, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an Engine Coolant Hot − Idle Engine warning, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. (cid:127) Idle for long periods in traffic. (cid:127) Tow a trailer.


If you get the Engine Coolant Hot − Idle Engine warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in


NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.


2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat


setting and fan speed and open the windows, as necessary.


If you no longer have the Engine Coolant Hot − Idle Engine warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally.


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If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.


Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Should an hot engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See Engine Oil on page 346.


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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:


3.6L V6 Engine shown, 2.8L V6 and 6.0L V8


Engines similar A. Electric Engine Cooling Fans B. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap


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{CAUTION:


An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface. If the engine is warm or hot, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If the engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.


{CAUTION:


Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.


If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine hot light is on, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service.


Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 363 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.


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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 357 for more information.


{CAUTION:


Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.


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{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.


In cold weather, water can freeze and


Notice: crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.


You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.


If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.


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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly,


and remove it.


3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper


mixture, to slightly above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.


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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off,


start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. The upper radiator hose is the top hose coming out of the radiator, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.


5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated. Recheck the coolant level in the bottle, the next time you use your vehicle to insure the system is full when cold. See Engine Coolant on page 357.


Power Steering Fluid


See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for the location of the power steering fluid reservoir.


When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.


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How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine


compartment cool down.


2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir


clean.


3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a


clean rag.


4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the


fluid level on the dipstick.


The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.


What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.


Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.


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Adding Washer Fluid The CHECK WASHER FLUID message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 228 for more information.


Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342
for reservoir location.


Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.


(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer


fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid.


(cid:127) Fill your washer fluid tank only


three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.


(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in


your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.


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Brakes Brake Fluid


Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for the location of the reservoir.


There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.


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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


{CAUTION:


If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.


If the ignition is in ON and the brake fluid is low, the “Check Brake Fluid” message will be displayed in the DIC. See “Check Brake Fluid Message” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 228. When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 197.


What to Add When you do need brake fluid, DOT-3 brake fluid is recommended for use. DOT-4 brake fluid is also compatible with your vehicle’s brake system parts. However, if you choose to use DOT-4
fluid, it is recommended that you flush your brake hydraulic system and refill it with new DOT-4
fluid at a regular maintenance service every two years. See Additional Required Services on page 466. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.


{CAUTION:


With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.


Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 439.


(cid:127)


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Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.


{CAUTION:


The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.


Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair. Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.


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Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.


Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.


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After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the engine will not run properly. 1. Turn the ignition key to ON. Do not start the


engine.


2. Leave the ignition in ON for at least three


minutes so that the electronic throttle control will cycle and re-learn its home position.


3. Turn the ignition to OFF. 4. Start and run the engine for at least


30 seconds.


Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.


{CAUTION:


Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 377 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.


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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.


{CAUTION:


Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:


(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode or


(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to


ignite.


burn you.


If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.


Ignoring these steps could result in


Notice: costly damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a


12-volt battery with a negative ground system.


If the other vehicle’s system is not


Notice: a 12-volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper


cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.


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Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug


unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!


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4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+)


and negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle, as well as the positive (+) terminal location on your vehicle’s battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 342 for more information on the location of the battery.


If you connect a negative cable to the


Notice: ECM, ECM mounting bracket, or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Always attach the negative cable to your vehicle’s remote negative ground location, instead of the ECM, ECM bracket, or any cables attached to the ECM bracket.


{CAUTION:


An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.


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Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground location, as shown in the illustration. It is located between the battery and the underhood fuse block. You should always use this remote ground location, instead of the terminal on the battery.


{CAUTION:


{CAUTION:


Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.


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Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.


5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.


8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.


9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) ground location is for this purpose.


10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery


and run the engine for a while.


11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead


battery. If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.


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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect


it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.


To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle that had the dead battery.


2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from


the vehicle with the good battery.


3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


vehicle with the good battery.


4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the


other vehicle.


Notice: If the jumper cables are connected or removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.


Jumper Cable Removal


A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or


Remote Negative (−) Terminal


B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and


Remote Negative (−) Terminals


C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal


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Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired. How to Check Lubricant


If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole. What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 474.


To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.


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Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure.


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The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: (cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so the


headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle must have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be placed so it is


perpendicular to the wall.


(cid:127) The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or


mud on it.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed.


(cid:127) The vehicle should be normally loaded with a


full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat. (cid:127) Tires should be properly inflated. (cid:127) The spare tire is in its original location in the


vehicle.


Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly. To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on


page 341 for more information.


2. Locate the aim dot on the lens of the


low-beam headlamp.


3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.


4. At the wall measure from the ground


upward (A) to the recorded distance from Step 3 and mark it.


5. Draw or tape a horizontal line (B) the width of


the vehicle at the wall where it was marked it Step 4.


Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a


piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.


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8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the


headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. If you turn it clockwise, it will raise the beam and if you turn it counterclockwise, it will lower the beam. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.


Passenger’s Side Shown


7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws,


which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket.


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9. Make sure that the light from the headlamp is positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line. The lamp on the left (A) shows the correct headlamp aim. The lamp on the right (B) shows the incorrect headlamp aim.


10. Repeat Steps 7 through 9 for the opposite


headlamp.


Halogen Bulbs


{CAUTION:


Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.


Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 390. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.


High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting


{CAUTION:


The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.


Your vehicle has HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.


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4. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb


by lifting the two plastic clips.


5. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping


the bulb straight as you pull it out.


6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp


assembly.


Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps


A. Taillamps and


Stoplamps


B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp


Front Turn Signal and Fog Lamps A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Fog Lamp


To replace a turn signal or fog lamp bulb, do the following:


1. Remove the protection shield located on the


underside of the front of the vehicle by pulling out the push-pins located on the underside of the protection shield.


2. Reach up behind the front bumper area from under the vehicle to access the lamp housing. 3. Remove the bulb socket from the housing by


turning the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise.


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1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 100 for


more information.


2. Remove the compact spare tire cover by


turning the wing nut counterclockwise.


3. Remove the four convenience net wing nuts. 4. Pull the carpet back away from the body of the vehicle on the side with the burned out bulb.


5. Remove the two mounting screws from the


lamp assembly.


6. Pull out the lamp assembly to expose the bulb


sockets.


7. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn


counterclockwise and pull the bulb socket out of the lamp reflector.


8. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping


the bulb straight as you pull it out.


9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp


assembly.


Back-Up and License Plate Lamps


A. Back-Up Lamps B. License Plate Lamps To replace a back-up or license plate bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 100 for


more information.


2. Remove the cloth cover on the trunk lid by pulling out the three push-pins located on the underside of the trunk lid.


3. Remove the eight mounting nuts from the


underside of the trunk lid by turning the nuts counterclockwise.


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4. Pull the lamp assembly away from the vehicle


to expose the bulb sockets.


5. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn


counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket out of the lamp reflector.


6. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping


the bulb straight as you pull it out.


7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp


assembly.


Replacement Bulbs


Exterior Lamp


Bulb Number


Back-Up, Front/Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamp and Taillamp Fog Lamp License Plate Lamp Rear Sidemarker Lamp


3157K


9145


W5WLL W5WLL


For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.


Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 469. It is a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 476. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine off. 2. Turn on the windshield wipers and turn them off again when the wipers are in the out-wipe position. The driver’s side blade will be straight up and down on the windshield.


3. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from


the windshield.


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6. Replace the blade with a new one.


4. Lift the wiper blade assembly up so it is in a


T-shaped position. You should be able to see a tab.


5. Squeeze the tab together and pull the wiper


blade assembly down far enough to release it from the J-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.


7. Reinstall the wiper blade assembly by sliding it over the wiper arm to engage the J-hooked end. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place.


8. Repeat the steps for the other wiper.


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Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle.


{CAUTION:


(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly


used tires are dangerous.


(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause


overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


CAUTION:


(Continued)


392


CAUTION:


(Continued)


(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same


danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 402.


(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely


to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.


(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents.


If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.


See High-Speed Operation on page 404 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.


If your vehicle has 245/45R18,


Notice: P245/45ZR18 or P225/50R18 size tires, they are classified as low-profile tires. Low-profile tires are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes and other road hazards.


Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads.


Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased traction on snow and ice covered roads. With winter tires, there may be decreased dry road traction, increased road noise, and shorter tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert for changes in vehicle handling and braking. See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 411. If you choose to use winter tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on


all four wheel positions.


(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size, load


range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.


Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, Y, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose winter tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.


393


Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example


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(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.


(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.


(C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.


(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 414.


(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


Compact Spare Tire Example


(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 434
and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 422.


395


(B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.


(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.


(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.


(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 402.


(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.


396


(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.


(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association.


(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.


(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide.


(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.


(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.


(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.


Tire Terminology and Definitions


Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).


Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission/transaxle, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.


Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.


Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.


Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.


Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


397


Cold Tire Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 402.


Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.


DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand, and date of production.


GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


398


Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle. Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure. Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles. Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire. Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall. Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire. Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity weight, and production options weight. Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.


Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.


Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire.


Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles.


Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure as shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 402 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.


Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated.


Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate.


Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.


Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.


Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called wear bars, that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 411.


UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 414.


399


Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.


Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


Run-Flat Tires (CTS-V) If your vehicle has run-flat tires, there is no spare tire and no tire changing equipment. Your vehicle also has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) which will alert you if there is a loss of tire pressure in any of the tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 405.


400


{CAUTION: When the low tire warning light is displayed on the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Do not drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.


If a tire goes flat, you will not need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 65 miles (105 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h). The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you will not have this cushion when driving on a deflated run-flat tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it.


Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you have driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you have driven any distance on a run-flat tire, check with an authorized run-flat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-flat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-flat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-flat servicing facility, call Roadside Service. See Roadside Service on page 488 for details.


{CAUTION:


Run-flat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-flat tire. Let only an authorized run-flat service center repair, replace, dismount, and mount run-flat tires.


The valve stems on your run-flat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your vehicle’s run-flat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Do not use liquid sealants in your vehicle’s run-flat tires.


401


A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 321. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry.


Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Too much flexing (cid:127) Too much heat (cid:127) Tire overloading (cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards


402


When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, if your vehicle has one. The compact spare should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 434. How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).


Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.


403


High-Speed Operation


{CAUTION:


Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.


The CTS-V high-performance tires, size 245/45R18 96V and P245/45ZR18 96W require inflation pressure adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher. Set the cold tire inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 41 psi (282 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 710 kg (1565 lbs) 350 kPa (51 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the cold inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 41 psi (282 kPa) When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressures shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


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The high-performance tires, size P225/55R16, P225/50R17 or P2225/50R18 require inflation pressure adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds of 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher. Set the cold tire inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or 38 psi (262 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example following. Example: You will find the maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 710 kg (1565 lbs) 350 kPa (51 psi) Max. Press. For this example, you would set the cold inflation pressure for high-speed driving at 38 psi (262 kPa) When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressures shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321.


Tire Pressure Monitor System Your vehicle may have a Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). This system uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted on each the tire and wheel assembly, except for the spare tire. The TPMS sensors monitor the air pressure in the vehicle’s tires and transmits the tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle. If your vehicle has the base audio system, the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays TPMS warnings and messages on the radio’s display screen. See System Controls on page 218
and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 228 for additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays. If your vehicle has the Navigation system, TPMS warnings and messages are displayed on the message center screen, located inside the tachometer. See Message Center (CTS-V) on page 209 for information about the message center operation and displays.


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If a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS will display the Check Tire Pressure message on the DIC or message center and, at the same time, illuminate the low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster. Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label. (If your vehicle has tires of a different size than the size indicated on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label, you should determine the proper tire inflation pressure for those tires.)


As an added safety feature, your vehicle has been equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) that illuminates a low tire pressure telltale when one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.


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Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale illuminates, you should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to the tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure, even if under-inflation has not reached the level to trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure telltale. The Tire and Loading Information label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and their recommended cold inflation pressures. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 321, for the location of the tire and loading information label. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 402. The tire pressure warning light may come on in cool weather when the vehicle is first started, and then turn off as you start to drive. This could be an early indicator that the tire pressures are getting low and need to be inflated to the proper pressure.


Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 409 and Tires on page 392. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. Resetting the TPMS Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire and wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire and wheel positions in the following order: driver’s side front tire, passenger’s side front tire, passenger’s side rear tire, and driver’s side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your GM dealer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire and wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing tire pressure do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall.


You will have two minutes to match the first tire and wheel position, and five minutes overall to match all four tire and wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over. The TPM matching process is outlined below: 1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the


engine off.


3. Using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter, lock and unlock the vehicle’s doors.


4. Press the lock and unlock buttons, at the same


time, on the RKE transmitter. A single horn chirp will sound, indicating that the TPMS system is ready, and the sensor matching process can begin.


5. Start with the driver’s side front tire.


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6. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem.


Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.


7. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire, and


repeat the procedure in Step 6.


8. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire, and


repeat the procedure in Step 6.


9. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and


repeat the procedure in Step 6.


10. After hearing the confirming double horn


chirp, for the left rear tire, exit the matching process by turning the ignition switch to OFF.


11. Set all four tires to the recommended


air pressure level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.


12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.


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The TPMS will not function properly, if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, the spare tire and wheel assembly does not contain a TPMS sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, or if the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor, the Service Tire Monitor System message will be displayed on the DIC. If you have replaced a tire and wheel assembly without transferring the TPMS sensors, the error message will be displayed. Once you re-install the TPMS sensors, the message should go off. See your GM dealer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on. Have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. If your vehicle has a message center and the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor an error message of several dashes – – – will be

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