2006 Cadillac CTS Owners Manual

information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine An overheat warning, along with a Check Coolant Level message, can indicate a serious problem. If you get an engine overheat warning with no Check Coolant Level message, but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you: (cid:127) Climb a long hill on a hot day. (cid:127) Stop after high-speed driving. Idle for long periods in traffic. Tow a trailer.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so: 1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.

2. Set the climate controls to the highest heat setting

and fan speed and open the windows, as necessary.

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come back on, you can drive normally. If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away. If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine for three minutes while you are parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Should an overheated engine condition exist, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance. A low coolant and/or engine overheat warning will indicate that an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided. Notice: After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See Engine Oil on page 5-16.

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Cooling System When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what you will see:

{CAUTION:

An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

If the coolant inside the coolant surge tank is boiling, do not do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

3.6L V6 Engine shown, 2.8L V6 and

6.0L V8 Engines similar

A. Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap B. Electric Engine Cooling Fans

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If the engine is warm or hot, the coolant level should be at or above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If the engine is cold, the coolant level should be near the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank. If it is not, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

{CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If you do, you can be burned. Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check to see if the electric engine cooling fans are running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should be running. If they are not, your vehicle needs service. Notice: Engine damage from running your engine without coolant is not covered by your warranty. See Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode on page 5-32 for information on driving to a safe place in an emergency. Notice: Using coolant other than DEX-COOL® may cause premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always use DEX-COOL® (silicate-free) coolant in your vehicle.

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How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Surge Tank If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible but the coolant level is not at the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant at the coolant surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it. See Engine Coolant on page 5-28 for more information.

{CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the coolant surge tank pressure cap — even a little — they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and coolant surge tank pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

{CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you would not get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL® coolant.

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack

Notice: the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts. Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

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{CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.

If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as follows: 1. You can remove the coolant surge tank pressure

cap when the cooling system, including the coolant surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise about one-quarter turn and then stop. If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

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2. Then keep turning the pressure cap slowly, and

remove it.

3. Fill the coolant surge tank with the proper mixture,

to slightly above the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start

the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. The upper radiator hose is the top hose coming out of the radiator, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Watch out for the engine cooling fans. By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant surge tank may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level reaches the FULL COLD/FROID line on the side of the coolant surge tank.

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up. If the Check Coolant Level message does not appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC), the coolant is at the proper fill level. If a Check Coolant Level message does appear, repeat Steps 1 to 3 then reinstall the pressure cap, or see your dealer.

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Power Steering Fluid

See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the power steering fluid reservoir.

When to Check Power Steering Fluid It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.

How to Check Power Steering Fluid To check the power steering fluid, do the following: 1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment

cool down.

2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean. 3. Unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a

clean rag.

4. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. 5. Remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on

the dipstick.

The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark. What to Use To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.

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Windshield Washer Fluid What to Use When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing. Adding Washer Fluid The CHECK WASHER FLUID message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid level is low. See DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-61
for more information.

Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for reservoir location.

Notice: (cid:127) When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the

manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.

(cid:127) Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.

Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water does not clean as well as washer fluid. Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters full when it is very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.

(cid:127) Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.

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(cid:127) Brakes Brake Fluid

Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.

There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not work well, or will not work at all.

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So, it is not a good idea to top off your brake fluid. Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you will have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add or remove brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

{CAUTION:

If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.

If the ignition is in ON and the brake fluid is low, the “Check Brake Fluid” message will be displayed in the DIC. See “Check Brake Fluid Message” under DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-61. When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See Brake System Warning Light on page 3-38.

What to Add When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.

{CAUTION:

With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.

Notice: (cid:127) Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they will have to be replaced. Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid. If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See Washing Your Vehicle on page 5-97.

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(cid:127) Brake Wear Your vehicle has four-wheel disc brakes. Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving, except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.

{CAUTION:

The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes will not work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.

Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.

Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes. Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications. Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. Brake Pedal Travel See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble. Brake Adjustment Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.

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Replacing Brake System Parts The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system — for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking performance you have come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.

Battery Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® replacement battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for battery location. Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

{CAUTION:

Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting on page 5-44 for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the engine will not run properly. 1. Turn the ignition key to ON. Do not start the engine. 2. Leave the ignition in ON for at least three minutes so that the electronic throttle control will cycle and re-learn its home position.

3. Turn the ignition to OFF. 4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.

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Jump Starting If your vehicle’s battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to use the following steps to do it safely.

{CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

(cid:127) They contain acid that can burn you. (cid:127) They contain gas that can explode

(cid:127) They contain enough electricity to

or ignite.

burn you.

If you do not follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

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Ignoring these steps could result in costly

Notice: damage to your vehicle that would not be covered by your warranty. Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it will not work, and it could damage your vehicle. 1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt

battery with a negative ground system.

If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt

Notice: system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle. 2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles are not touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you do not want. You would not be able to start your vehicle and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.

If you leave your radio or other accessories

Notice: on during the jump starting procedure, they could be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and other accessories when jump starting your vehicle. 3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug

unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that are not needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save the radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the positive (+) and

negative (−) terminal locations of the other vehicle, as well as the positive (+) terminal location on your vehicle’s battery. See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for more information on the location of the battery.

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If you connect a negative cable to the ECM,

Notice: ECM mounting bracket, or any cables that attach to the ECM bracket, you may damage the ECM. Always attach the negative cable to your vehicle’s remote negative ground location, instead of the ECM, ECM bracket, or any cables attached to the ECM bracket.

{CAUTION:

An electric fan can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.

Your vehicle has a remote negative (−) ground location, as shown in the illustration. It is located between the battery and the underhood fuse block. You should always use this remote ground location, instead of the terminal on the battery.

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{CAUTION:

{CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light. Be sure the battery has enough water. You do not need to add water to the battery installed in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you do not, explosive gas could be present. Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you. Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or

missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock. The vehicles could be damaged too. Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you will get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

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8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the

negative terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Do not let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at

least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less. Use a remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one. Your vehicle’s remote negative (−) ground location is for this purpose.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run

the engine for a while.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)

terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

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If the jumper cables are connected or

Notice: removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be covered by your warranty. Always connect and remove the jumper cables in the correct order, making sure that the cables do not touch each other or other metal.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote

Negative (−) Terminal

B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote

Negative (−) Terminals

C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following: 1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the

vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other

vehicle.

Rear Axle When to Check Lubricant It is not necessary to regularly check rear axle fluid unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss could indicate a problem. Have it inspected and repaired.

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What to Use Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See Recommended Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-13. Headlamp Aiming The vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system. The aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment. However, if the vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected and adjustment may be necessary. If oncoming vehicles flash their high beams at you, this may also mean the vertical aim needs to be adjusted. It is recommended that the vehicle is taken to your dealer for service if the headlamps need to be re-aimed. It is possible however, to re-aim the headlamps as described in the following procedure.

How to Check Lubricant

To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.

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The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows: The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface. The vehicle must have all four tires on a level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other flat surface. The vehicle should not have any snow, ice, or mud on it. The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being performed. The vehicle should be normally loaded with a full tank of fuel and one person or 160 lbs (75 kg) sitting on the driver’s seat. Tires should be properly inflated. The spare tire is in its original location in the vehicle.

Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle’s low-beam headlamps. The high-beam headlamps will be correctly aimed if the low-beam headlamps are aimed properly.

To adjust the vertical aim, do the following: 1. Open the hood. See Hood Release on page 5-11

for more information.

2. Find the aim dot on the lens of the low-beam

headlamp.

3. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on the low-beam headlamp. Record the distance.

4. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the ground upward the recorded distance from Step 2
and mark it.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) 7. Locate the vertical headlamp aiming screws, which are under the hood near each headlamp assembly. The adjustment screw can be turned with a 6 mm hex socket.

5. Draw or tape a horizontal line the width of the vehicle at the wall or other flat surface where it was marked it Step 4.

Notice: Do not cover a headlamp to improve beam cut-off when aiming. Covering a headlamp may cause excessive heat build-up which may cause damage to the headlamp. 6. Turn on the low-beam headlamps and place a piece of cardboard or equivalent in front of the headlamp not being aimed. This should allow only the beam of light from the headlamp being aimed to be seen on the flat surface.

8. Turn the vertical aiming screw until the headlamp

beam is aimed to the horizontal tape line. If you turn it clockwise, it will raise the beam and if you turn it counterclockwise, it will lower the beam. The top edge of the cut-off should be positioned at the bottom edge of the horizontal tape line.

9. Repeat Steps 7 and 8 for the opposite headlamp.

Passenger’s Side Shown

5-52

Halogen Bulbs

{CAUTION:

Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.

Bulb Replacement For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see Replacement Bulbs on page 5-56. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting

{CAUTION:

The low beam high intensity discharge lighting system operates at a very high voltage. If you try to service any of the system components, you could be seriously injured. Have your dealer or a qualified technician service them.

Your vehicle may have HID headlamps. After your vehicle’s HID headlamp bulb has been replaced, you may notice that the beam is a slightly different shade than it was originally. This is normal.

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Front Turn Signal and Fog Lamps

A. Turn Signal Lamp B. Fog Lamp

To replace a fog or turn signal lamp bulb, do the following:

1. Remove the protection shield located on the

underside of the front of the vehicle by pulling out the push-pins located on the underside of the protection shield.

2. Reach up behind the front bumper area from under

the vehicle to access the lamp housing.

3. Remove the bulb socket from the housing by

turning the bulb socket one-quarter turn counterclockwise.

4. Remove the electrical connector from the bulb by

lifting the two plastic clips.

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5. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

6. Install a new bulb. 7. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and Sidemarker Lamps

A. Taillamps and

Stoplamps

B. Turn Signal Lamp C. Sidemarker Lamp

1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12 for more

information.

2. Remove the compact spare tire cover by turning the

wing nut counterclockwise.

3. Remove the four convenience net wing nuts. 4. Pull the carpet back away from the body of the

vehicle on the side with the burned out bulb.

5. Remove the two mounting screws from the

lamp assembly.

6. Pull out the lamp assembly to expose the

bulb sockets.

7. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise and pull the bulb socket out of the lamp reflector.

8. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

9. Install a new bulb. 10. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Back-Up and License Plate Lamps

A. Back-Up Lamps B. License Plate Lamps To replace a back-up or license plate bulb, do the following: 1. Open the trunk. See Trunk on page 2-12 for more

information.

2. Remove the cloth cover on the trunk lid by pulling

out the three push-pins located on the underside of the trunk lid.

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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement Windshield wiper blades should be inspected for wear or cracking. See Owner Checks and Services on page 6-9. It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts on page 6-15. To replace the wiper blade assembly, do the following: 1. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine off. 2. Turn on the windshield wipers and turn them off

again when the wipers are in the out-wipe position. The driver’s side blade will be straight up and down on the windshield.

3. Pull the windshield wiper assembly away from the

windshield.

3. Remove the eight mounting nuts from the underside of the trunk lid by turning the nuts counterclockwise.

4. Pull the lamp assembly away from the vehicle

to expose the bulb sockets.

5. Turn the bulb socket one-quarter turn

counterclockwise and pull the bulb and socket out of the lamp reflector.

6. Pull the old bulb from the bulb socket keeping the

bulb straight as you pull it out.

7. Install a new bulb. 8. Reverse the steps to reinstall the lamp assembly.

Replacement Bulbs

Exterior Lamp

Bulb Number

Back-Up, Front/Rear Turn Signal, Stoplamp and Taillamp Fog Lamp License Plate Lamp Rear Sidemarker Lamp

3157K

9145
W5WLL 2825 L/W5WL

For replacement bulbs not listed here, contact your dealer.

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7. Reinstall the wiper blade assembly by sliding it over the wiper arm to engage the J-hooked end. Pull up on the assembly to lock it into place. 8. Repeat the steps for the other wiper.

4. Lift the wiper blade assembly up so it is in a

T-shaped position. You should be able to see a tab.

5. Squeeze the tab together and pull the wiper blade

assembly down far enough to release it from the J-hooked end of the wiper arm. Slide the assembly away from the arm. Allowing the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield when no wiper blade is installed could damage the windshield. Any damage that occurs would not be covered by your warranty. Do not allow the wiper blade arm to touch the windshield.

6. Replace the blade with a new one.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

(cid:127) Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.

(cid:127) Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by a sudden impact — such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.

(cid:127) Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If

your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.

See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66 for inflation pressure adjustment for high speed driving.

Tires Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

{CAUTION:

(cid:127) Poorly maintained and improperly used

tires are dangerous.

(cid:127) Overloading your tires can cause

overheating as a result of too much friction. You could have an air-out and a serious accident. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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If your vehicle has P245/45R18 or

Notice: P225/50R18 size tires, they are classified as low-profile tires. Low-profile tires are more susceptible to damage from road hazards or curb impact than standard profile tires. Tire and or wheel assembly damage can occur when coming into contact with road hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged objects or when sliding into a curb. Your GM warranty does not cover this type of damage. Keep tires set to the correct inflation pressure and when possible avoid contact with curbs, potholes and other road hazards. Winter Tires If you expect to drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may want to get winter tires for your vehicle. All season tires provide good overall performance on most surfaces but they may not offer the traction you would like or the same level of performance as winter tires on snow or ice covered roads.

See your dealer for details regarding winter tire availability and proper tire selection. Also, see Buying New Tires on page 5-74. If you choose to use snow tires: (cid:127) Use tires of the same brand and tread type on all

four wheel positions.

(cid:127) Use only radial ply tires of the same size,

load range, and speed rating as the original equipment tires.

Winter tires with the same speed rating as your original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose snow tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

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Tire Sidewall Labeling Useful information about a tire is molded into its sidewall. The examples below show a typical passenger vehicle tire and a compact spare tire sidewall.

Passenger (P-Metric) Tire Example

(A) Tire Size: The tire size is a combination of letters and numbers used to define a particular tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type, and service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration later in this section for more detail.

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(B) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines. (C) DOT (Department of Transportation): The Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. (D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture. (E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread. (F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. For more information see Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-76. (G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(C) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and numbers following the DOT (Department of Transportation) code is the Tire Identification Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the tire, although only one side may have the date of manufacture.

(D) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum load that can be carried and the maximum pressure needed to support that load.

(E) Tire Inflation: The temporary use tire or compact spare tire should be inflated to 60 psi (420 kPa). For more information on tire pressure and inflation see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.

(F) Tire Size: A combination of letters and numbers define a tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and service description. The letter T as the first character in the tire size means the tire is for temporary use only.

(G) TPC Spec (Tire Performance Criteria Specification): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.

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Compact Spare Tire Example

(A) Temporary Use Only: The compact spare tire or temporary use tire has a tread life of approximately 3,000 miles (5 000 km) and should not be driven at speeds over 65 mph (105 km/h). The compact spare tire is for emergency use when a regular road tire has lost air and gone flat. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-93 and If a Tire Goes Flat on page 5-82. (B) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of plies in the sidewall and under the tread.

Tire Size The following illustration shows an example of a typical passenger vehicle tire size.

(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter P as the first character in the tire size means a passenger vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire and Rim Association. (B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. (C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if the tire size aspect ratio is 60, as shown in item C of the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is 60 percent as high as it is wide. (D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means belted-bias ply construction.

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(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.

(F) Service Description: These characters represent the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certified to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certified to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.

Tire Terminology and Definitions

Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).

Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight of optional accessories. Some examples of optional accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering, power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air conditioning.

Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its width.

Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made from steel or other reinforcing materials.

Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.

Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when mounted on a vehicle.

Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from driving. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.

Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard and optional equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without passengers and cargo.

DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand and date of production.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.

Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.

Load Index: An assigned number ranging from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying capacity of a tire.

Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.

Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.

Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight; and production options weight.

Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.

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Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of an asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that faces outward when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears manufacturer, brand, and/or model name molding that is higher or deeper than the same moldings on the other sidewall of the tire. Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose vehicles. Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66 and Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. Radial Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire beads are seated. Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire can operate. Traction: The friction between the tire and the road surface. The amount of grip provided.

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Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact with the road.

Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire when only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) of tread remains. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73.

UTQGS (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards): A tire information system that provides consumers with ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature, and treadwear. Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using government testing procedures. The ratings are molded into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality Grading on page 5-76.

Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs (68 kg) plus the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight, occupant weight, and cargo weight.

Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a vehicle showing the vehicle’s capacity weight and the original equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure. See “Tire and Loading Information Label” under Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

Run-Flat Tires (CTS-V) If your vehicle has run-flat tires, there is no spare tire and no tire changing equipment. Your vehicle also has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) which will alert you if there is a loss of tire pressure in any of the tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-69.

{CAUTION:

When the low tire warning light is displayed on the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Do not drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.

If a tire goes flat, you won’t need to stop on the side of the road to change the tire. You can just keep on driving. The tire can operate effectively with no air pressure for up to 65 miles (105 km) at speeds up to 55 mph (90 km/h). The shorter the distance you drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance that the tire will not have to be replaced. When a tire is filled with air, it provides a cushion between the road and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion when driving on a deflated run-flat tire, try to avoid potholes that could damage your wheel and require replacement of it. Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair. This damage could occur even before you’ve driven on the tire in a deflated condition. When a tire has been damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a run-flat tire, check with an authorized run-flat tire service center to determine whether the tire can be repaired or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-flat feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting tires.

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As soon as possible, contact the nearest authorized GM or run-flat servicing facility for inspection and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM or run-flat servicing facility, call Roadside Service. See Roadside Service on page 7-6 for details.

{CAUTION:

Run-flat tires are constructed differently than other tires and could explode during improper service. You or others could be injured or killed if you attempt to repair, replace, dismount, or mount a run-flat tire. Let only an authorized run-flat service center repair, replace, dismount, and mount run-flat tires.

The valve stems on your run-flat tires have sensors that are part of the Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS). These sensors contain batteries which are designed to last for 10 years under normal driving conditions. See your dealer if you ever need to have a wheel replaced, or if the sensors ever need replacement. Notice: Using liquid sealants can damage the tire valves and tire pressure monitor sensors in your vehicle’s run-flat tires. This damage would not be covered by warranty. Do not use liquid sealants in your vehicle’s run-flat tires.

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Inflation - Tire Pressure Tires need the correct amount of air pressure to operate effectively. Notice: Do not let anyone tell you that under-inflation or over-inflation is all right. It is not. If your tires do not have enough air (under-inflation), you can get the following:

Too much flexing Too much heat Tire overloading

(cid:127) Premature or irregular wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Reduced fuel economy If your tires have too much air (over-inflation), you can get the following: (cid:127) Unusual wear (cid:127) Poor handling (cid:127) Rough ride (cid:127) Needless damage from road hazards

(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) A Tire and Loading Information label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch. This label lists your vehicle’s original equipment tires and shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they are cold. The recommended cold tire inflation pressure, shown on the label, is the minimum amount of air pressure needed to support your vehicle’s maximum load carrying capacity. For additional information regarding how much weight your vehicle can carry, and an example of the tire and loading information label, see Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32. How you load your vehicle affects vehicle handling and ride comfort, never load your vehicle with more weight than it was designed to carry. When to Check Check your tires once a month or more. Do not forget to check the compact spare tire, if your vehicle has one. The compact spare should be at 60 psi (420 kPa). For additional information regarding the compact spare tire, see Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-93.

How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.

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Use the following chart to determine the cold tire inflation pressure when operating your vehicle under these conditions.

Tire Size: 245/45R18 96W Recommended Cold Tire Inflation Pressure for High Speed Operation

at 130 mph (209 km/h) or more:

Occupant and Cargo

600 lbs (272 kg) Up to

Weight: Less than

600 lbs (272 kg)

Occupant and Cargo

Weight:

882 lbs (400 kg) (Vehicle Capacity

Weight)

Front Tires 30 psi

(210 kPa)

Rear Tires

Front Tires Rear Tires

30 psi

(210 kPa)

32 psi

(220 kPa)

34 psi

(235 kPa)

When you end high-speed driving, return the tires to the cold inflation pressures shown on the tire and loading information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32.

High Speed Operation (CTS-V)

{CAUTION:

Driving at high speeds, 100 mph (160 km/h) or higher, puts an additional strain on tires. Sustained high-speed driving causes excessive heat build up and can cause sudden tire failure. You could have a crash and you or others could be killed. Some high-speed rated tires require inflation pressure adjustment for high speed operation. When speed limits and road conditions are such that a vehicle can be driven at high speeds, make sure the tires are rated for high speed operation, in excellent condition, and set to the correct cold tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load.

The CTS-V performance series has 245/45R18 96W size tires. These high-performance tires require inflation pressure adjustment when driving your vehicle at speeds of 130 mph (209 km/h) or higher with occupants and cargo weighing 600 lbs. (272 kg) up to 882 lbs. (400 kg).

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Tire Pressure Monitor System The Tire Pressure Monitor System (TPMS) uses radio and sensor technology to check tire pressure levels. If your vehicle has this feature, sensors are mounted on the tire and wheel assembly. The TPMS sensors transmit tire pressure readings to a receiver located in the vehicle once every 60 seconds while the vehicle is being driven, and once every 60 minutes if the vehicle is stationary for more than 15 minutes. If your vehicle has the base audio system, the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays TPMS warnings and messages on the radio’s display screen. See System Controls on page 3-53 and DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-61 for additional information and details about the DIC operation and displays. If your vehicle has the Navigation system, TPMS warnings and messages are displayed on the message center screen, located inside the tachometer. See Message Center (CTS-V) on page 3-47 for information about the message center operation and displays. If a low tire pressure condition is detected, the TPMS will display the Check Tire Pressure message on the DIC or message center and, at the same time, illuminate the low tire pressure warning symbol on the instrument panel cluster.

Each tire, including the spare (if provided), should be checked monthly when cold and inflated to the inflation pressure recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or tire inflation pressure label.

When the low tire pressure telltale is illuminated, one or more of your tires is significantly under-inflated.

You should stop and check your tires as soon as possible, and inflate them to the proper pressure. Driving on a significantly under-inflated tire causes the tire to overheat and can lead to tire failure. Under-inflation also reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability. The Tire and Loading Information label shows the size of your vehicle’s original tires and their recommended cold inflation pressures. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32, for the location of the tire and loading information label. Also see Inflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-66.

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Your vehicle’s TPMS can alert you about a low tire pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire maintenance. See Tire Inspection and Rotation on page 5-72 and Tires on page 5-58. Notice: Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle has Tire Pressure Monitors. The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure monitor sensors. TPMS Sensor Identification Codes Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire and wheel position. The sensors are matched, to the tire and wheel positions, in the following order: left front (LF), right front (RF), right rear (RR), and left rear (LR) using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your GM dealer for service. The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire and wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing tire pressure do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. You will have two minutes to match the first tire and wheel position, and five minutes overall, to match all four tire and wheel positions. If it takes longer than two minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over.

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The TPM matching process is outlined below:

1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the engine off. 3. Using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter,

lock and unlock the vehicle’s doors.

4. Press the lock and unlock buttons, at the same

time, on the RKE transmitter. A single horn chirp will sound, indicating that the TPMS system is ready, and the sensor matching process can begin.

5. Start with the driver’s side front tire. 6. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for five seconds, or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which may take up to 30 seconds, confirms that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire position. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.

7. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 6.

8. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 6.

9. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and repeat the

procedure in Step 6.

10. After hearing the confirming double horn chirp, for

the left rear tire, exit the matching process by turning the ignition switch to OFF.

11. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the tire and loading information label.

12. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems. The TPMS will not function properly, if one or more of the TPMS sensors are missing or inoperable. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, the spare tire and wheel assembly does not contain a TPMS sensor. If you replace one of the road tires with the spare, or if the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor, the Service Tire Monitor System message will be displayed on the DIC. If you have replaced a tire and wheel assembly without transferring the TPMS sensors, the error message will be displayed. Once you re-install the TPMS sensors, the message should go off. See your GM dealer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on. Have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible. If your vehicle has a message center and the system detects a missing or inoperable sensor an error message of several dashes – – – will be shown on the message center display. If you have replaced a tire and wheel assembly without transferring the TPMS sensors, the error message will be displayed.

Once you re-install the TPMS sensors, the error message should go off. See your GM dealer for service if all TPMS sensors are installed and the error message comes on and stays on. The TPMS operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry and Science Canada. This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation.

This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: 1. This device may not cause interference. 2. This device must accept any interference received,

including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.

Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.

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Tire Inspection and Rotation Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 5-73 and Wheel Replacement on page 5-77 for more information. The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See Scheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.

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When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here. If your vehicle has a compact spare tire, do not include it in the tire rotation. After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire and Loading Information label. See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32, for an example of the tire and loading information label and its location on your vehicle.

If your vehicle has run-flat tires, the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system will need to have the sensors reset after a tire rotation is performed. A special tool is needed to reset the sensor identification codes. See your dealer for service. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and Specifications on page 5-114.

{CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off. See Changing a Flat Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-84.

When It Is Time for New Tires

One way to tell when it is time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.

You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true: (cid:127) You can see the indicators at three or more places

around the tire.

(cid:127) You can see cord or fabric showing through the

tire’s rubber. The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut, or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric. The tire has a bump, bulge, or split. The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that cannot be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.

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(cid:127) (cid:127) (cid:127) {CAUTION:

Mixing tires could cause you to lose control of your vehicle while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes, brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires) the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash. Using tires of different sizes, brands or types may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the correct size, brand and type of tires on all wheels. Your vehicle may have a compact spare tire and wheel assembly. If equipped, it is all right to drive with your vehicle’s compact spare tire temporarily, it was developed for use on your vehicle. See Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-93.

Buying New Tires GM has developed and matched specific tires for your vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet General Motors Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC spec) system rating. If you need replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you get tires with the same TPC Spec rating. This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give the same performance and vehicle safety, during normal use, as the original tires. GM’s exclusive TPC Spec system considers over a dozen critical specifications that impact the overall performance of your vehicle, including brake system performance, ride and handling, traction control and tire pressure monitoring performance. GM’s TPC Spec number is molded onto the tire’s sidewall by the tire manufacturer. If the tires have an all-season tread design, the TPC spec number will be followed by an MS for mud and snow. See Tire Sidewall Labeling on page 5-60 for additional information. Winter tires with the same speed rating as your vehicle’s original equipment tires may not be available for H, V, W, and ZR speed rated tires. If you choose snow tires with a lower speed rating, never exceed the tire’s maximum speed capability.

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{CAUTION:

If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.

If you must replace your vehicle’s tires with those that do not have a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (radial and bias-belted tires) as your vehicle’s original tires. Vehicles equipped with a tire pressure monitoring system may give an inaccurate low-pressure warning if non-TPC spec rated tires are installed on your vehicle. Non-TPC Spec rated tires may give a low-pressure warning that is higher or lower than the proper warning level you would get with TPC Spec rated tires. See Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-69. Your vehicle’s original equipment tires are listed on the Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). See Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-32, for more information about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its location on your vehicle.

Different Size Tires and Wheels If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than your original equipment wheels and tires, this may affect the way your vehicle performs, including its braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle has electronic systems such as, antilock brakes; traction control; and electronic stability control, the performance of these systems can be affected.

{CAUTION:

If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle may not provide an acceptable level of performance and safety if tires not recommended for those wheels are selected. You may increase the chance that you will crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM specific wheel and tire systems developed for your vehicle, and have them properly installed by a GM certified technician.

See Buying New Tires on page 5-74 and Accessories and Modifications on page 5-3 for additional information.

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Uniform Tire Quality Grading Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example: Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires. While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.

Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate. Traction – AA, A, B, C The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.

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Temperature – A, B, C The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law. Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.

Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance The tires and wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance. Adjustments to wheel alignment and tire balancing will not be necessary on a regular basis. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling to one side or the other, the alignment may need to be checked. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your tires and wheels may need to be rebalanced. See your dealer for proper diagnosis.

Wheel Replacement Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist. Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need. Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.

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If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.

Used Replacement Wheels

{CAUTION:

Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You cannot know how it has been used or how far it has been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.

{CAUTION:

Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous. It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.

Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis. See Changing a Flat Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-84 for more information.

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Tire Chains

{CAUTION:

Do not use tire chains. There is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, re-adjust or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.

Lifting Your Vehicle (CTS-V)

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured. Find a level place to lift your vehicle. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Place the shift lever in REVERSE (R) and

firmly apply the parking brake.

2. Turn off the engine.

To be even more certain the vehicle will not move, you can put blocks in front of and behind the wheels. Also see Parking Your Vehicle (Manual Transmission) on page 2-36
and Parking Brake on page 2-33 for additional information.

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Notice: Lifting your vehicle improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To lift your vehicle properly, follow the advice in this part. To help prevent vehicle damage: (cid:127) Be sure the jack you are using meets the weight

standards for your vehicle and is in good working order.

(cid:127) Be sure to place a block or pad between the

jack and the vehicle.

(cid:127) Make sure the jack you are using only contacts the jacking location lift points and is not leaning on any other vehicle components such as the rocker panels, the floor pan, or the stone guard moldings. Lift only in the areas shown in the following pictures.

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to place the jack in the proper location before raising the vehicle.

If you ever use a jack to lift your vehicle, follow the instructions that came with the jack, and be sure to use the correct lifting points to avoid damaging your vehicle.

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(cid:127) Lifting From the Front The front lifting points can be accessed from either side of your vehicle, behind the front tires.

Lifting From the Rear The rear lifting points can be accessed from either side of your vehicle, in front of the rear tires.

1. Locate the front lifting points using the diagram

shown above and corresponding hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them. The front lifting location is about 14 inches (35.6 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well.

2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack

and the vehicle.

3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack

is centered on the front lifting point.

1. Locate the rear lifting points using the diagram

shown above and corresponding hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them. The rear lifting location is about 7 inches (17.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well.

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2. Be sure to place a block or pad between the jack

and the vehicle.

3. Lift the vehicle with the jack, making sure the jack

is centered on the rear lifting point.

See Doing Your Own Service Work on page 5-4 for additional information.

If a Tire Goes Flat It is unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. See Tires on page 5-58. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do: If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop — well off the road if possible. If a tire goes flat, and your vehicle has a spare tire, see Changing a Flat Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-84. This information shows you how to use your vehicle’s tire changing equipment and how to change a flat tire safely.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

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Run-Flat Tires (CTS-V) If your vehicle has run-flat tires, there is no spare tire and no tire changing equipment. Run-flat tires can operate effectively with no air pressure for a limited distance and speed. Your vehicle also has a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) which will alert you if there is a loss of tire pressure in any of the tires. These tires perform so well without any air pressure that a Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) is used to alert you when there is a low tire condition.

{CAUTION:

When the low tire warning light is displayed on the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s handling capabilities will be reduced during severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you could lose control of your vehicle. You or others could be injured. Do not drive over 55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check your tire pressures as soon as you can.

See Run-Flat Tires (CTS-V) on page 5-65 and Tire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-69, for additional information.

{CAUTION:

Special tools and procedures are required to service a run-flat tire. If these special tools and procedures are not used you or others could be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Always be sure the proper tools and procedures, as described in the service manual, are used.

To order a service manual see Service Publications Ordering Information on page 7-15.

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CAUTION:

(Continued)

3. Turn off the engine and do not restart

while the vehicle is raised.

4. Do not allow passengers to remain in

the vehicle.

Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.

Changing a Flat Tire (CTS Only) If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

{CAUTION:

Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you or other people. You and they could be badly injured or even killed. Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly. 2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P), or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

CAUTION:

(Continued)

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When you have a flat tire, use the following example as a guide to assist you in the placement of wheel blocks.

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools (CTS Only) The equipment you will need is in the trunk. To gain access to the spare tire and jacking equipment, do the following:

1. Turn the center nut on the compact spare tire cover counterclockwise to remove it. Then remove the cover.

The following information will tell you next how to use the jack and change a tire.

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2. Turn the nut holding the jack counterclockwise and remove it. Then remove the jack and wheel wrench.

3. Remove the compact spare tire. See Compact Spare Tire (CTS Only) on page 5-93 for more information about the compact spare tire.

4. The tools you will be using next include the jack (A)

and the wheel wrench (B).

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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the Spare Tire (CTS Only)

1. Loosen the wheel nuts, but do not remove them

yet, using the wheel wrench. Turn the handle about 180 degrees, then flip the handle back to the starting position. This avoids taking the wrench off the lug nut for each turn.

2. Find the jacking location using the diagram above and corresponding hoisting notches located in the plastic molding. The notches in the plastic molding are marked with a triangle shape to help you find them. The front location (A) is about 14 inches (35.6 cm) from the rear edge of the front wheel well, and the rear location (B) is about 7 inches (17.8 cm) from the front edge of the rear wheel well.

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{CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

If you position the jack under the rocker

Notice: molding and attempt to raise the vehicle, you could break the molding and/or cause other damage to your vehicle. Always position the jack so that when the jack head is raised, it will fit firmly in the notch located inboard from the rocker molding. 4. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower

the jack lift head until the jack fits under the vehicle.

3. Attach the wheel wrench to the jack.

{CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

{CAUTION:

Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do maintenance or repairs is dangerous without the appropriate safety equipment and training. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is used for anything else, you or others could be badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the jack provided with your vehicle only for changing a flat tire.

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5. Raise the jack by turning the wheel wrench

clockwise until the slots in the jack head fit into the metal flange located behind the triangle on the plastic molding as shown.

7. Raise the vehicle by turning the wheel wrench clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground for the compact spare tire to fit under the vehicle.