Vz Ignition Barrel Problems  

milehigheric
  • milehigheric
  • Budding User
  • Member No.: 63,495
  • Joined: 6-March 07
  • Posts: 595
Post #1 post 20th November 2011 - 10:55 AM
Went to start the VZ yesterday and the locking pin has seized in place. From a quick google it seems as if this is a common fault between VS-VZ and I am just curious as to why? On other forums it has been said that it also tends to happen when it is hot which happens to coincide with mine . I already have the barrel out, ill grab a new one today but yeah as I said I am just curious as to what the problem actually is. There was no warning signs, never had a sticky barrel or anything just out of the blue it seized. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this happening again?

This post has been edited by milehigheric: Nov 20 2011, 10:55 AM
TXR05
Post #2

From what I was reading on Just Commodores. No real fix to it. It's luck of the draw really. I had mine for 2 years and never had a problem. They just get stuck in place.

(mr2)
Post #3

There are a couple of issues that happen with them.

First, there is a pin on the back of the barrel that rides on a ramp, because the barrel is made out of crappy die-cast the ramp gets a flat spot and the pin gets stuck.

Second, the shaft on the back of the ignition that goes in to the switch breaks, so the key turns but the car won't start/ turn off.

Also the switch can wear out on these but that is normally on cars prior to VT.

The ignition problem is also common with the Astras/ combos/ vectras ( all the same part)

There is no such thing as a Holden original ignition, they are made by an after market company called NICE, they are crap, if you are replacing it yourself you might be lucky but most the time the barrel is slightly too bit to fit into the housing and needs a bit of material filed off.

untamed ss
Post #4

Haha i had the exact same thing happen in my ute. Was a small lug on the end of the barrel that snapped and jammed. No warning just went one day. Luckily its a very easy fix and no new remote needed. smile.gif

Mr Zed
Post #5

check your key blade hasn't worn, also a bit of graphite powder down the barrel into the tumblers now and then helps with wear. Never use spray grease/WD40 to keep the locks smooth.

mr031
Post #6

From to many things on your key ring, the weight might have have something to do with it, very common problem on Daewoo's, perhaps some graphite powder every now and then too

milehigheric
Post #7

Yeah tried graphite/spare key first, didn't make any difference... after about 10 mins i hit the sweet spot and thought screw it ill pull it out while i can. For some reason the ignition switch was not in the right position when i put the new barrel in though. The barrel would slide all the way in but obviously foul when it hit the actual switch at the back. Ended up getting a hex key in there to manually turn the switch back to the ACC position and the the new barrel slid right in...hopefully this one outlasts the rest of the car now - does seem very hit an miss.

And also just a bit of fuel to feed the fire on the hate for dealerships....barrel cost 40 bucks which i thought was reasonable but the quote to key it up was $150. I just said are you serious mate, he gave me a funny look and I just said don't worry about it. For the record, my local locksmith charged $30 to key it up....It is a shit of a job but certainly not worth $150 haha.

Mr Zed
Post #8

they're not that hard to code actually. If you remove all the old tumblers from the barrel in order, you'll see each tumbler has a number on it from 1 to 8 as I recall. Then you just take the new tumblers and springs from the barrel kit, match up the numbers and fit them in the order the old ones were removed. thumbsup.gif

(mr2)
Post #9

DO not use graphite, use WD-40 or INOX for locks, but this wouldn't o fixed your problem anyway.

Graphite mixed with grease ( Which comes in locks from the factory) plus all the grit and shit that gets in there over the years, it will go pasty and not work how it is supposed too. you need to flush the crap out of locks to get them working better.

mcgaulley58101
Post #10

Just got my daughter a 2004 VZ commodore, it was not used for about 6 months, wouldnt start and was thought to be needing a new battery, got that and still wouldnt go, next step was a new starter motor,still no luck, was told it might be a problem with the key and getting re coded.Have just had this done also but no luck.The car can be hotwired and the key works if stopped and started with in 15 minute, but cant just come out in the morning and start it with the key.any ideas???

matty_niggz101
Post #11

QUOTE (mcgaulley58101 @ Oct 14 2016, 10:17 PM) *
Just got my daughter a 2004 VZ commodore, it was not used for about 6 months, wouldnt start and was thought to be needing a new battery, got that and still wouldnt go, next step was a new starter motor,still no luck, was told it might be a problem with the key and getting re coded.Have just had this done also but no luck.The car can be hotwired and the key works if stopped and started with in 15 minute, but cant just come out in the morning and start it with the key.any ideas???


I am having the exact same issue with my VZ, I have also tried new battery, starter and key... did you have any luck? if so can you please share with me what your solution was... I'm about ready to give up, its really breaking me... Thanks in advance.

  • Member Login

    If you have a BoostCruising account enter your user name and password into the yellow box.

    Alternatively, you can quickly login with Facebook.

    If you don't have an account create one below.

    Create Account
  • Login with Facebook

    Login using your Facebook account!

2 User(s) are reading this topic (2 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
Loading...
x