Sr20det In A Pulsar N14  

Reece_911

okay so p12 primera engine sounds really good but i just had a look on google and ebay and couldnt find any of the little buggers. a halfcut of one would be mint but id say you would need alot of luck or time to find one. correct iamhappy? and what is a pulsar VZ-R? ill google it but just give me some of ur insight please

Reece_911

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-SENT...sQ5fAccessories


What do u reckon? POUNCE???

iamhappy46

You wont find a P12 engine in Australia that was not already imported for someone, they are rare in Japan let alone Australia. A few went through a while ago and it was $2500 for motor + gearbox + freight + driveshafts + gear lever etc. costs around $10K for the P12 conversion all up. Hell, I did a VQ35 conversion for only a few hundred dollars more lol.

VZ-R is a 3 door hatch version of the N15 Pulsar SSS. It comes with an SR16VE engine, makes 127Kw stock

Its in the USA, so expect it to cost around $4K landed. Call up some of the australian engine importers

Reece_911

so dont pounce? wow thats impressive for a 1.6 to pull that much power. 10k is alot though. but man that power gain is huge. it shits all over sr20de

iamhappy46

Definitely dont pounce on that Ebay engine

Yeah, the SR16VE makes some good power and the front cuts in australia are around $2400 from an entire engine/gearbox etc. The SR16VE sounds like a powerful engine on paper but it really lacks midrange power. That SR20VE engine makes around 147Kw but the midrange grunt is awesome and makes it feel atleast twice as fast

There are SR20VE converted N14 Pulsars popping up for sale every know and then too for good prices. Considering they are faster than the Autech S15 Silvia's, I know what I would prefer

Reece_911

yeah so i guess maybe wait around for a bit longer for more sr20ve's to appear from primeras getting smashed in japan lol. shouldnt be too long

Reece_911

ive only got 1500 bucks saved up anyways. spending too much on fuel thanks to the hole in my crappy stock 1 1/2" exhaust or whatever it is.

Reece_911

iamhappy. you never told me vq35's are a V6 3.5 L engine!! i never even bothered to look at them as you didnt say too much about em but like holly shit. thats whats in ur pulsar hey?

iamhappy46

There is a few SR20VE engines is Japan, if you put down a deposit they will happily arrange to bring one in for you

Yeah, $1500 wont buy you much. I would strongly usggest selling your car though when your ready to upgrade and buying one of the tasty N14 SSS with a VE(or DET) conversion already done. Its MUCH cheaper haha

lol, yeah its basically a Maxima 3.5L V6(from an American Nissan Altima) but its also the same engine they use in the 350Z. This engine aint stock either

http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh40/ia...S35L/?start=all

Reece_911

well do you race it at all? cos im guessing there is not much out there that could beat that. and hey are you just telling me to get one with a sr20de or ve conversion already done cos u dont want me to get a vq35 and beat you? jokes

benking

I've done a GA16DE to SR20DET conversion in my N15 just recently. Worth while conversion if you've got people willing to help you and you're not paying a shop to do it. You'll want to know your way around the engine because it's common to have a lot of teething problems to begin with and you'll find yourself stuck on the side of the road if you can't diagnose problems.

The conversion needs quite a bit of time and money as well as patience. I've done up a how to on my site which (if you would like) you can PM me for a link to... unfortunately it's in the How-To section so you'd have to register... You can use your facebook ID anyway to log in if you use that.

I've attached a picture of my conversion - it'd be very similar to the N14. I actually purchased an N14 SSS wreck for the conversion... sold all the bits I didn't need such as interior parts, brakes (already had AD22VF calipers) and the motor as well as the body to scrap metal, and actually ended up making $200 profit! Not the cleanest looking conversion, I know, but it's basically been made to look as stock as possible. I REALLY need to spray that rocker cover though - it's driving me around the bend how dirty it looks... It has some rub marks on it from where we strapped it down to the trailer to bring it back to Brisbane.

The SSS gearbox will handle the standard W10 power well enough. I'm running a W11 motor which has slightly more power than that of the W10 as it runs a stock wastegate actuator at 9psi, rather than 7. The W10 motor will put down 154kw at the flywheel whereas the W11 makes 169 at the flywheel.

The biggest problem you're going to have, is after you have done the conversion...You'll ALWAYS want more power... that's when you can join the 3rd gear club, which I'm yet to do... The RS5F32A boxes (SSS gearbox) have a tendency to strip 3rd gear under extreme load... So far my box has been OK, but I've been told about some gearboxes that you can import from the states that are a much better design, use the same clutch and have much better gear ratios (not that the SSS ones are bad though)...

This wikipedia page has some good info about the SR20DET variants too which will help you in deciding which motor you'd like to go with... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR20DET

Hope this helps a bit

Ben

Reece_911

yeah ive sort of got over the idea of an sr20de they are a bit common now and not as powerful as an sr20ve or vq35. i think ill just save up the money for now and get something alot better than the sr20de down the track. and maybe beg iamhappy46 to help me put it in lol

benking

SR20DET would be a much better option... and if you have the cash, an SR20VE+T or VET from the Xtrail in Japan.

VQ35 isn't such a grand plan as it just has too much torque and the extra weight up front from what I've heard makes it a pain to drive... Obviously that's me speaking from what I've heard - personally I've never driven one so I am happy to stand corrected on that.

You won't be able to do an SR20VE or VQ35DE conversion on your P's... Unfortunately under the laws you're not able to drive a car that requires a modification cert or plate (if you're in QLD anyway)...

There's just nothing like coming on boost... the Neo VVL engines just don't come close (unless they have a turbo of course)

benking

Just in case you misread - I wasn't talking about an SR20DE in my original post I was speaking about the SR20DET.

Reece_911

im in nsw. does that help? and yeah good point with the vq35. sr20ve i guess. with a bit of internal modification so no-one can tell. forged pistons etc etc

iamhappy46

I will be racing it once one small issue is fixed
I think you will have trouble finding a 6 speed manual gearbox to suit the VQ35 There are none in Australia besides mine lol.



Dont discount the SR20DE, with some decent camshafts and some work, they can make around 200Hp@flywheel but when you can buy an SR20VE for similiar money, I know which one I would buy haha. The VE also will have more low rpm power and use less fuel than a worked DE motor.
It took me over 12 months to do each of my own VQ35 swaps during my few hours each weekend I have free lol, I doubt I will be doing another one again any time soon.




The VQ35 weighs less than an SR20 There is less metal in the block due to the extra open space and the large bores. Dont worry, I was surprised as well when it went on the scales. The weight is also better distributed, with more weight behind the front axle than an SR20. It does have more low rpm torque but thats one of the reasons I fitted aftermarket cams, sacrfice low rpm torque to make gains up high Not many SR20's are making just short of 400hp@wheels and remaining daily drivers, with a HD clutch and a glass gearbox which is why I love my smooth indestructible gearbox and superlight twinplate

The SR20VE conversion in NSW is 'legal' as your still using an SR20 block with a later model SR20 engine.

Reece_911

haha how did u get yours if there is none in australia? is it out of a 350Z even? and i guess what you said would sort of make it illegal for me to do the sr20ve conversion as my original engine is a ga16de. WHICH SUCKS. oh i debadged my car too. looks decent. ill see if i can get some pics up tomorrow

iamhappy46

The N14 Pulsar was available with an SR20, so your allowed to fit one without requiring an engineers certificate BUT you can see why buying a SSS or Ti thats already had the conversion done is 'easier'

The gearbox is from an American Altima, which is a FWD gearbox(350Z is RWD) but the engines between the Maxima/Altima and 350Z are the same with very minor differences.

Reece_911

ur a hard man iamhappy46. i love my car and i dont want to let it go cos ive already invested so much time and money into it and i know i wont get nearly as much back on it as ive spent. but yeah ill look around get prices of converted SSS's

Reece_911

cant find too many sr20ve conversions around. there is heaps of sr20det's the only ve i could find was the sr16ve but it had a car attached to it. so how did you manage to get ur hands on 350Z brakes? and how come you have a 5 stud pattern? or do the SSS's come with that?

pipster11

a lot of his car is pure custom work

but the v6 has 5 stud hubs

and the bolt spacing is prob the same as v35 skylines and 350z's

khubner

i know this has been covered long ago but with an awd box coul you not convert it into a fwd box by binding the visciuos coupling. (this is how the 4g63 awd box is changed for fwd lancer coupes) now i don't have much experience with nissan boxes so forgive me if they're completly different in the way they transfer the power to the rear

iamhappy46

As above, a LOT of custom work went into my Black car. Its 'special' since it is the first Jap Spec N14 SSS Each time I look at the pile of receipts that belong to it, it threatens to topple over on top of me and crush me with its weight of paper lol
I have Maxima 5 stud hubs, Maxima rear brakes, 350Z rotors(bigger than R32 GTR brakes) and calipers with Pulsar suspension. It is NOT an easy conversion
I can fit any Skyline, 200SX, 350Z, Maxima or even Murano wheel(which is whats on it now, bought them for $200 haha)




The Pulsar GTiR gearbox has an 'outer' tube style shaft off the final drive in the gearbox, which is what powers the AWD transfer case. It then puts power through a solid shaft which goes right through the centre of the final drive to power the passenger front wheel. There is no way of 'locking' the final drive up to power both wheels since there is no spline inside the Final Drive. Essentially, it is impossible

Reece_911

wow i didnt know you could change the stud pattern. but i suppose most things are interchangeable on cars. hey do you know why my car would be running sluggish after i leave it out in the sun for a few hours? i give it a decent driving and it returns to normal again. also i overtook my girlfriend the other day in the top of 4th and she said it was blowing alot of smoke. reason?

iamhappy46

EVAP solenoid
next time you leave it out in the sun, before you start the car, unscrew the fuel cap and then screw it back on

Reece_911

ahh my hero. and the smoke?

iamhappy46

What engine oil are you using?

Reece_911

Penrite Semi-Synthetic HPR-10 SAE10W-50

iamhappy46

If you were in the top of 4th gear, I would say your washing oil off the cylinder bores. Your engine is not designed for such hi-rpm abuse The EVAP solenoid would be making it worse though, so get it fixed and if your not blowing too much blue smoke under 'normal' acceleartion then its fine

Reece_911

aww stupid non abuse taking engine. so who would do the EVAP solenoid? just a normal mechanic? what is it?

iamhappy46

In the passenger side of the engine bay, just below the air filter pipe you will see a black cylinder bolted near the firewall. That is the EVAP canister, also known as the Carbon Canister. It will have 3 hoses on it. One goes to 3 metal hoses on the firewall, the other 2 will go to the engine. One of the black rubber hoses will got to a little black box which has a 2 wire plug on it. This is the EVAP solenoid. Disconnect the electrical plug on the solenoid, take car for a drive around the block and let me know if the car feels better or worse

Reece_911

righto im going away for a few days up to hervey bay so ill let you know when i get back. if i can find this thread lol

Reece_911

yeah my bad for not replying in so long i kind of forgot about this thread. disconnecting the evap solenoid didnt really make a huge difference but the problem has kind of gone away now. which is weird. hey mate would you mind explaining how you changed the pulsar wheel hubs for the maxima ones? that seems like it would be beneficial as it is much easier to find 5-stud rims that actually look good. also how did you go about importing the altima gearbox and other things. or was it already imported and you just bought it? thanks

iamhappy46

The Evap solenoid usually works. Atleast the problem has gone away for now

The 5 stud conversion is not simple or cheap... bolt on conversion kit would cost around $2K in total + wheels + tyres

I imported the Altima gearbox/engine/front brake calipers/etc myself, the air freight bill was $3K + cost of the parts I bought. Not cheap but worthwhile

Reece_911

yeah well im not all that worried about the problem seeing as i wont be driving it for 3 months soon. rego has ran out so yeah. and i wont need it when im gone. so you got the bolt-on conversion kit yourself? or did you make one? cos judging by some of the things you have told me i wouldnt be surprised. thats not actually a bad price for the stud conversion. how easy was it to import the altima parts? would i be able to do it or did you have special contacts known only to you lol.