R32 Small Issues  

pipster11
  • pipster11
  • Now in Tas :-O
  • Member No.: 71,156
  • Joined: 10-June 07
  • Posts: 5,447
  • From: Tasweigia
Post #1 post 27th February 2009 - 04:15 PM
so i got the 32. yay smile.gif
but it's been idling funny (starts at 1000-900rpm and slowly drops down to the point where it chokes and splutters and i have to give it some revs to keep it going)
so i went to supermole and got some carby cleaner to hit the iac valve with (i popped the pipe running into it off and started spraying. disconnected the afm and started it up so the car would run with the pipe off and sprayed some in whilst it was running) kinda made it a bit better but still doing it (i know i should remove it properly but i have limited tools)
later i went into town and parked up for about an hour and a half (in the sun) came back and was idleing pretty rough and i had to keep a toe on the throttle to keep it running and when i went to use the brake it nearly stalled again.
the car hasn't really been driven much for the last year as it was kinda a project car for the guy i bought it off
just need ideas as to what it could be
i might even fill it up with some nice clean petrol see if it makes it any happier
might try to disconnect the battery and reset the ecu (but i dont even have a spanner!!!!)

hit me up guys with what it could be

car is a 32 gtst spec m with:

bosch 040 or 044
rb25 turbo
jjr coilpacks (i think)
pod
front mount (will check for leaks now)
cat back

oh and also has a viper alarm which doesnt do much
pretty sure it is a viper 650xv
its got a key on the side of the siren but when you use the remotes nothing happens except the light flashes on the remote. anyone know how to wake it up (the guy had the fuses pulled out cos he didnt have a bettery in it for a while but i have replaced these)

--------------------
My Cars
C34-S2 Stagea RS Four S - Factory Manual, Dayz bodykit, R34 Brakes and other stuff
R31 Skyline - With Watanabe RS-8's

R32 GTS-t
S13 Silvia SR20DET
'97 Outback
youbUTEless 33
Post #2

this sounds an awful lot how my problem started

whykickamoocow
Post #3

gday,
check the plugs, leads and coilpack.
also the ACC valves and throttle position sensor
if that's all fine it could b the 02 sensor.
it could also be a fuel problem, so you would have to check the filter/pump.

it could be many things this just gives you a basic starting point.


pipster11
Post #4

cleaned the maf and reset the ecu and now seems a lot happier but haven't been for a long trip yet so a journey to town might do the trick tmrw

butttttt.... the alarm still doesnt work unless i put the key in one position it goes nuts and in another position and then disconnect the battery (it has 3 positions) anyone know about viper alarms it deff is a 650xv i checked b4

the_random_hero
Post #5

QUOTE(pipster11 @ Feb 27 2009, 06:44 PM) [snapback]1283653204[/snapback]

cleaned the maf and reset the ecu and now seems a lot happier but haven't been for a long trip yet so a journey to town might do the trick tmrw

butttttt.... the alarm still doesnt work unless i put the key in one position it goes nuts and in another position and then disconnect the battery (it has 3 positions) anyone know about viper alarms it deff is a 650xv i checked b4


You mean the siren? One position of off, one is "normal" and one will be a test mode, where the siren should go apeshit. If RDCL was installed with the alarm, it should beep in the "normal" position.

09ONE
Post #6

Have you filled up with a fresh tank of fuel?

Get fresh fuel and drive the car a decent distance and then see if the problem persists.

iamhappy46
Post #7

You can disconnect the ECCS relay to reset the ECU wink.gif

pipster11
Post #8

QUOTE(the_random_hero @ Feb 27 2009, 07:53 PM) [snapback]1283653248[/snapback]

You mean the siren? One position of off, one is "normal" and one will be a test mode, where the siren should go apeshit. If RDCL was installed with the alarm, it should beep in the "normal" position.


ok there is a mode where the alarm goes nuts but i get no beep when i turn it to either of the other two except when you disconnect the battery in one mode the alarm goes off

no fresh fuel yet will do that in the morning
whats the best premium these days? i've got caltex/woolies, 2 bp's, united :-O

^_^
Post #9

no compression on your engine, rebuild laugh.gif

the_random_hero
Post #10

QUOTE(pipster11 @ Feb 28 2009, 12:05 AM) [snapback]1283654464[/snapback]

ok there is a mode where the alarm goes nuts but i get no beep when i turn it to either of the other two except when you disconnect the battery in one mode the alarm goes off

no fresh fuel yet will do that in the morning
whats the best premium these days? i've got caltex/woolies, 2 bp's, united :-O


Hold up here. You're talking about using the key on the back of the siren, yes? One is a test mode where the siren will sound, one is to normally use the siren with the alarm and one will be an off position - providing you're using a battery backup siren. Do the other functions all work properly? Sounds like the trigger wire has some issues (will be the one that isn't constant power or earth, check with a test light, should flash when you use RCDL - providing it's hooked up to it).
I use a tank of BP Ultimate every 4 or 5 tanks of fuel, have never had any problems with it. In fact, my fuel consumption has gone down, I'm now getting over 50km more to a half-tank, regardless of how hard I drive (my car used to be really sensitive to how hard it was driven).

pipster11
Post #11

riteo so the key thingo is just to turn the actual siren on or off
the led thats supposed to flash doesnt work at all but i have no multimeter with me or anything sad.gif where would i get a test light from?
supershit auto?
and whats the rcdl?
might go the bp then

the_random_hero
Post #12

QUOTE(pipster11 @ Feb 28 2009, 08:10 AM) [snapback]1283654839[/snapback]

riteo so the key thingo is just to turn the actual siren on or off
the led thats supposed to flash doesnt work at all but i have no multimeter with me or anything sad.gif where would i get a test light from?
supershit auto?
and whats the rcdl?
might go the bp then


Yeah, just pick up a cheapey - it shouldn't be too much at all. RDCL = remote central locking..

pipster11
Post #13

ok so had a propper look at everthing and took the kick pannel out
the remote cable wasn't plugged in
so i plugged it in and pressed a button on the remote, relays started clicking away and the light started flashing
so i turned the siren on and it beeped and stuff as i pressed buttons on the remote
then had another rummage around and found out that the wires to trigger the doors opening and closing aren't connected to anything
so if anyone has a wiring diagram for a r32 skyrice with the door electric's on it post it up plz!

pipster11
Post #14

ok still idling a bit round and stalled a couple of times yesterday (i did attack it with some more tb cleaner so it could be more crap making its way out)
its odd tho cos it goes pretty well on boost
goes up to ~.7bar and stays there pretty contantly
but power isn't smooth (can feel lumps and bumps as it goes rich and goes good etc)
any way of fixing it up wihtout haveing a tune done (wanna get a dr drift one when he comes to tas)

ke_rolla
Post #15

have u checked the o2 sensor yet???

pipster11
Post #16

nope
dont have spanners
bought a socket set today tho and took the aac valve off (bolts holding it on were finger tight tho)
had a fiddle with the idle screw (plug un-plugged) and also gave the tps a bit of an adjust but prob did it wrong
idles much better now tho

but... just in case whats the proper idle adjusting procedure please?

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